I would spend money on good quality tires , coil overs and rear sway bar. Try losing some weight off the car too. Best mods for the money performance wise IMHO.

 

I seriously considered putting nitrous on my car and I may still do it in the future. Aznboi and ggesq both gave you good options though. Tires are the best place to put money other than maintenance. J pipe probably has the best effect with the least comprimises.

 

1.) Cost to own
- gas, insurance, taxes

2.) Cost to maintain
- oil, tires, brakes, shocks, timing belt, etc

3.) Cost to modify
- exhaust, intakes, wheels, tint, etc

You can't skip #1. You shouldn't skip #2. You can always skip #3.

 

I would definetely look at some nitrous systems but the only problem is that you have to really monitor it and make sure it does not take in too much external heat and I believe that it is illegal in my state(NY). Do nitrous systems give you noticeable power gains, and if so how much?

 

I just told you 75 whp. Pretty much nitrous is illegal in all state. Just hook it up no one going to look under your hood or trunk.

 

Sorry I missed what you said in your previous post. Whenever talking about cars I get so used to seeing the abbreviation hp for horsepower.

 

OP, the TL is not the car to try and mod and get lots of power from, people have done it but it takes a lot of time, effort and money. If you want power, etc. go with another car, the TL was never meant to be that, it was meant as a entry level luxury car.

 

this floors my mind, Jackass

when I bought the TL, I factored in; insurance, gas, maintenance, possible emergency situations.

what the heck are parents teaching their kids!?!??!?!?!??
oh yeah, this is 'Merica....just put it on credit.

 

I didn't even think about #3 until I was out of college...I knew better...well...kind of. I didn't do performance or visual mods, but I did have a decent stereo in every car I owned in that time. Part of the reason I have partial hearing loss. Never went overboard, always what I could actually afford. Credit wasn't quite as east to get in the 90's as it got in the 2000's and today. My first CC was when I was in college and it was used strictly for living expenses....like food.

 

another member who is modding his car, asked for handouts in the form of donations from Gofundme.
WHAT the hell is this world coming to!?!?!?!??!

 

Wow. Just Wow.

My first mods were cheap, like free to $50. They also did absolutely nothing to increase the power of the car and made it so much worse to drive. Im too embarassed to say more lol.

 

hahah must have been born after the 90's... those fkers

 

Pushing this thread longer I have decided that I will start of small in building my car's performance with parts that I can afford at this time and just work my way up. I'm first going to start with a suspension swap to improve handling, with my next step either getting a new set of performance tires or jpipe installation. From there on out there will be bigger and better things to come.

 

Good plan of action

 

Good for you man. That really is the best straight forward way to improve the car. You wont be dissapointed.

 

he's in his 30's

 

Does anybody here know the maximum shots of nitruous a 5 speed automatic 2005 tl can handle?

 

Tires and suspension are great mods to being with.

But really these TLs, IMO, are very well engineered already from the factory. Evidenced by the fact that base auto TLs can run from 0-60 in the low 6-second range which is not too shabby for a factory stock car. With bolt-ons, great tires, road surface, quarter tank of gas, taking a big dump in morning and a good wind in your back....you might even possibly/potentially dip just below the 6 seconds (totally unconfirmed guess though..... ) mark.

But in the end the 3G TL platform is definitely more suited to great cosmetics and driving feel/handling....rather than big power. Look for other vehicle platforms for cheap and big power....

 

try a 25 shot first and increase from there.

 

I am not a mechanic, let me just start with that. But I have a text book on nitrous applications and it says for a v6 engine you should usually start from 75 to 100hp. Different kits come with different nozzles that do different things on different cars. Some are like 20, 40, or 80. Some are just literally giving you the spec size of the nozzle in mm.

Unless you are asking how many times you can run nitrous through the engine. No one can answer that. It might blow up the first time you shoot a 50hp shot or it might be able to run reliably on a 100 shot for 100 uses. A lot of this comes down to the kit, install, and most importantly SUPPORTING MODS. If you are interested I can give you the list of aupporting mods the book recommends. Its not short...

 

But in the end the 3G TL platform is definitely more suited to great cosmetics and driving feel/handling....rather than big power. Look for other vehicle platforms for cheap and big power....[/QUOTE]

This is spot on an really cant be driven into noobs heads enough times. By driving feel and handling tho I assume you mean improving that, not suggesting that it is particularly good out the box. I think it is an amazingly well built car from factory in the fact that almost every mod has a down side. Some cars you can mod with only gains, for certain mods.

 

Yes, I'd like to know what supporting mods are needed for the kit and how much I should expect to pay for all of those mods.

 

thats what he was implying...
we need to know your goals, as you cannot blindly throw shit.
as he stated, there's different nozzles, different things that you need to learn

or if you did want to blindly throw shit on, start off at a 25 shot like thisaznboi suggested, and then hope your engine doesnt blow up

 

My main goal is to add more torque and to make it to the 300 horsepower mark or even higher hopefully with it not causing any harm to my engine or transmission. I would like an instant boost in power from the set up.

 

lol try a 25 shot.

 

Well I was looking in the books, I have two and they are like 300 pages each. I'm sure it gives supporting mods somewhere, but for now I found this little section on post-installation checks you should do before you ever even try the system. This can get you to think about the mods you will need:

-Verify the nitrous and/or fuel jetting sizes
-Change the fuel filter
-Purge the nitrous line of any debris
-Verify the nitrous-off fuel-rail pressure (36psi with vacuum reference hose disconnected)
-Pressure- Make sure the pressure gauge is in place to verify fuel pressure rise during nitrous injection
-Install new spark plugs one to two heat ranges colder
-Ensure that the nitrous and is oriented per instruction so G forces don't interrupt the flow of liquid nitrous on hard acceleration
-Retard static spark timing by approx 2 degrees depending on application
-Consider optional low-rpm limit switch to prevent nitrous engagement at too-low rpm (some hondas will have trouble providing tach signal during nitrous use)
-Perform a compression test/leakdown on the engine (before and after to compare)
-Flow-test fuel injectors for uniformity and high-flow rate
-Use unleaded race gas only in fuel tank ( at least initially, then 92+ octane only on the street)
-Inspect the stock ignition system (install new plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor)
-Upgrade coils, plugs, and wires (always a good idea on power modified engines)

-What happens if the tank vents from over-pressure?
-Will the care fill with nitrous-plus and possibly suffocate you, cause you to crash, or make you nauseated from sulfur dioxide inhalation?
-Are anti-knock countermeasures in place? (J&S Safeguard knock sensor or other boosted-conditions timing retard device recommended)
-Does the fuel pump provide sufficient volume?
-Is nitrous tank pressure OK?
-Is a fire extinguisher on hand?
-Is the nitrous system armed?
-Is there any chance nitrous has been released into the intake manifold during shutdown? (This can cause huge explosions upon startup)
-Is the engine above 2,500rpm before full-throttle nitrous run begins?
-USE THE SMALLEST NITROUS SHOT AS A STARTING PLACE.
-Is the clutch up to the job?
-Are the correct tires on the car?
-Is the nitrous nozzle perpendicular to throttle and centered in air intake or throttle body?
-Is an extra car available, just in case you smoke the engine?
-Is a change of underwear available, in case you don't?

So as you can see it's not as simple as throwing it on their and blasting off, but IMHO it is still the best way to get a cheap HP bump that is significant for this car. Like I said, I am still thinking about trying it on my car SOME DAY, not anytime soon though. Maybe not even on this car actually, I'm still learning about it.

Hope that helps, I capitalized the answer to your question in the text.

 

To be honest ive always felt like it would be a guilty pleaure to take just hook up a wet shot of a low amount and just go at it. Not smart or safe, but surely would be fun. I dont have the heart to do that to my TL, something like an accord tho...

 

why not? engines are super cheap!!!

if you look up threads by the user name "Dirty John" thats exactly what he did
nitrous until block failed, then swapped engines and did it again and again

 

well, he also owns a shop....so, i dont think he cared about labor as it was fun for him

 

Ha im gonna look for that, sounds like a good read. Not cheap enough for me to blow up, plus I dont have a good place right now to swap it out, even tho I have the tools and stuff. Who knows what the future holds tho...

 

I'd add in the TL Type S rear anti-roll bar too, cheap at the dealer, easy install.

 

Is the type s sway bar better than the Progress bar and are you sure that it can fit on the 2005 TL?

 

i dont remember specifically but this is how it goes
base RSB = 17mm or 18mm HOLLOW
type-s = 19mm solid
progress RSB = 22mm

so, for about 40-60 dollars, you are getting a MAJOR increase over base by just going to the 19mm solid type-s bar

 

and yes, the type-s is the same car as the base. everything fits