Oil. Thoughts?
10-18-2015, 03:10 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Oil. Thoughts?
Alright, so after reading a few posts on here, as per usual, so many different thoughts and opinions and no one directly a dresses my specific question. So here it is:
I live in MN. Winters are generally 0-10 degrees, but reach -20. Summers are generally 80 degrees, but reach 100.
My commute is 10 miles, 15-20 mins in winter, and 15 mins in summer. I baby my car on week days, and drive her hard/harder on weekends (never abuse). Winters in general I baby her far more.
OE oil I know is 5w-20. I plan on running full synthetic from now on. I bought 18 quarts of 0w-20 cuz Costco had it on sale ($27 for 66 quarts). Would I be fine to run this year round of should I use something different come summer?
I live in MN. Winters are generally 0-10 degrees, but reach -20. Summers are generally 80 degrees, but reach 100.
My commute is 10 miles, 15-20 mins in winter, and 15 mins in summer. I baby my car on week days, and drive her hard/harder on weekends (never abuse). Winters in general I baby her far more.
OE oil I know is 5w-20. I plan on running full synthetic from now on. I bought 18 quarts of 0w-20 cuz Costco had it on sale ($27 for 66 quarts). Would I be fine to run this year round of should I use something different come summer?
10-18-2015, 05:48 PM
#2
Team Owner
just a couple tips:
1. Don't fear driving your car. It's meant to be driven and the J32 engine likes to be red lined. It really does. The problem with babying the engine all the time is that you start to develop heavy carbon deposits on top of the piston. Once you eventually do Rev up the engine, that carbon can break loose. The last thing you want is for a piece of it to cause one of your valves to be left stuck open longer than it should and burning it out.
2. First off, im gonna give you shit for buying something without even being sure if it's OK for your car. Dummy! Now that we got that out of the way (lol), you are OK to use 0w-20 year round. The zero in front of the "w" represents the oil viscosity upon a cold start. 0 is the thinnest oil you can buy, however, it still causes engine "damage" to occur upon start up because it is too thick to do its job right. 5w-20 is slightly thicker upon start up and as such, damage still occurs. It's literally unavoidable. You're better off using 0w-20 oil though. But to be honest, you'll likely never notice a difference between the two. There's a good chance your engine will still last just as long regardless.
1. Don't fear driving your car. It's meant to be driven and the J32 engine likes to be red lined. It really does. The problem with babying the engine all the time is that you start to develop heavy carbon deposits on top of the piston. Once you eventually do Rev up the engine, that carbon can break loose. The last thing you want is for a piece of it to cause one of your valves to be left stuck open longer than it should and burning it out.
2. First off, im gonna give you shit for buying something without even being sure if it's OK for your car. Dummy! Now that we got that out of the way (lol), you are OK to use 0w-20 year round. The zero in front of the "w" represents the oil viscosity upon a cold start. 0 is the thinnest oil you can buy, however, it still causes engine "damage" to occur upon start up because it is too thick to do its job right. 5w-20 is slightly thicker upon start up and as such, damage still occurs. It's literally unavoidable. You're better off using 0w-20 oil though. But to be honest, you'll likely never notice a difference between the two. There's a good chance your engine will still last just as long regardless.
The following users liked this post:
kocyk123 (10-29-2015)
10-18-2015, 10:51 PM
#4
Team Owner
Are you further confirming that it's ok to use 0w-20?
10-19-2015, 02:10 AM
#5
When i first got my TL, it was the middle of winter and my oil change was due. Midas had a promotion for a full syntec oil change 0w-20 for 29$ if we liked their facebook page and printed out their coupon. 29$ for synthetic oil + filter is a pretty good deal in Canada as syntec oil changes are usually un the 60-70$ range. As I get there, the guy tells me he can't offer me the promotion because my car doesn't take 0w-20 oil...he says only cars that are factory certified for that oil can be eligible for the promo, he says only TLs 2006 and up. I tell him it doesnt make sense as the 05 and 06 are the exact same car, how can one be and not the other?
After speaking to manager, he finally gave me the deal, explaining that 0w20 wasn't yet officially adopted by the industry in 2005 because it was considered as "rare" and also much more expensive than the conventional 5w-20. He said even if it took a couple more years for that oil to become a requirement, it was listed in the oil types that are OK to use for the TL since 2006.
After speaking to manager, he finally gave me the deal, explaining that 0w20 wasn't yet officially adopted by the industry in 2005 because it was considered as "rare" and also much more expensive than the conventional 5w-20. He said even if it took a couple more years for that oil to become a requirement, it was listed in the oil types that are OK to use for the TL since 2006.
10-19-2015, 10:25 AM
#6
OP is going to get ban for starting another oil thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...oil-tl-831887/
09-06-2011, 06:46 PM #5 justnspace vbmenu_register("postmenu_13213865", true);
I know you're new here, but if you take a little time to browse our previous oil threads, you could pick up a lot!
Check out some of these threads, I dug up. Take note of what I hate cars says.
Quote:
Originally Posted by I hate cars
Another oil thread with no real direction....
I get tired of explaining it so here's a chart. cSt is the viscosity. 100 degrees celsius is 210F and it's the oil temp that most engines run at so it's the "hot" viscosity of the oil.
Chart won't post so here's the link:http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
This also shows that the myth that the winter rating (w) is done at 32F. The temperature changes with the rating, it's not one set temp.
The red chart shows the viscosity range for each SAE viscosity designation.
For Atlanta even in the winter, a 10w-30 would work fine. You can see by the chart that a 10w is good to -20C. Personally I would stay away from any extreme ends of this chart. If it's getting down to -15 I would be running a 0w or 5w, not a 10w even though it's acceptable.
0w-20, 5w-20, and 5w-30 will all be fine in the winter too.
Oil pressure and flow appear just as quickly with a 10w-30 as with a 0w-20 because our oil pumps are a positive displacement pump. The exception to this is if it goes into bypass.
A synthetic 5w-30 will give you the best of all worlds in the TL and you won't have the need to switch oil weights from season to season. If you're using dino I would use a 10w-30 in the summer.
A 0w-20 will compromise HTHS which compromises hot engine protection. It's fine if you live in a very cold area and the oil never hits full temp.
A 5w-30 synthetic will usually have a higher HTHS rating than a dino oil in the same weight. This is one area besides very cold climates where a synthetic accels. When dealing with dino oils it's better to keep the low and high numbers as close together as possible. If you use a 5w-40 dino, it's going to have a ton of VIIs and shear like crazy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by I hate cars with a passion!
I ended up going with the Redline over Amsoil for several reasons. Amsoil was great, I can only say good things about it. However, I figured if I was going to go with a synthetic I might as well go with the best. Redline offers a higher HTHS, thinner cold starting viscosity, it's an ester so it has a natural cleaning ability which means a cleaner engine and less detergents are needed. It has the stoutest additive package I've ever seen, tons of moly and ZDDP. Great HTHS retention meaning you can take it to track days and run it hard all day long and never worry about having to change it out early. It's a straight 30wt but flows like a 5w-30 so you get all the advantges of both a multi-weight and straight weigh oil. It's overkill no doubt but I figured why do it half ass. Even the Amsoil was overkill but that's my OCD getting the best of me.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726719
http://wwtl.acurazine.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=808158
I am running M1 0w-40.
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...oil-tl-831887/
09-06-2011, 06:46 PM #5 justnspace vbmenu_register("postmenu_13213865", true); I know you're new here, but if you take a little time to browse our previous oil threads, you could pick up a lot!
Check out some of these threads, I dug up. Take note of what I hate cars says.
Quote:
Originally Posted by I hate cars
Another oil thread with no real direction....
I get tired of explaining it so here's a chart. cSt is the viscosity. 100 degrees celsius is 210F and it's the oil temp that most engines run at so it's the "hot" viscosity of the oil.
Chart won't post so here's the link:http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
This also shows that the myth that the winter rating (w) is done at 32F. The temperature changes with the rating, it's not one set temp.
The red chart shows the viscosity range for each SAE viscosity designation.
For Atlanta even in the winter, a 10w-30 would work fine. You can see by the chart that a 10w is good to -20C. Personally I would stay away from any extreme ends of this chart. If it's getting down to -15 I would be running a 0w or 5w, not a 10w even though it's acceptable.
0w-20, 5w-20, and 5w-30 will all be fine in the winter too.
Oil pressure and flow appear just as quickly with a 10w-30 as with a 0w-20 because our oil pumps are a positive displacement pump. The exception to this is if it goes into bypass.
A synthetic 5w-30 will give you the best of all worlds in the TL and you won't have the need to switch oil weights from season to season. If you're using dino I would use a 10w-30 in the summer.
A 0w-20 will compromise HTHS which compromises hot engine protection. It's fine if you live in a very cold area and the oil never hits full temp.
A 5w-30 synthetic will usually have a higher HTHS rating than a dino oil in the same weight. This is one area besides very cold climates where a synthetic accels. When dealing with dino oils it's better to keep the low and high numbers as close together as possible. If you use a 5w-40 dino, it's going to have a ton of VIIs and shear like crazy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by I hate cars with a passion!
I ended up going with the Redline over Amsoil for several reasons. Amsoil was great, I can only say good things about it. However, I figured if I was going to go with a synthetic I might as well go with the best. Redline offers a higher HTHS, thinner cold starting viscosity, it's an ester so it has a natural cleaning ability which means a cleaner engine and less detergents are needed. It has the stoutest additive package I've ever seen, tons of moly and ZDDP. Great HTHS retention meaning you can take it to track days and run it hard all day long and never worry about having to change it out early. It's a straight 30wt but flows like a 5w-30 so you get all the advantges of both a multi-weight and straight weigh oil. It's overkill no doubt but I figured why do it half ass. Even the Amsoil was overkill but that's my OCD getting the best of me.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726719
http://wwtl.acurazine.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=808158
I am running M1 0w-40.
10-29-2015, 01:18 AM
#7
I just use whatever Acura or Subaru puts in the car. Never had issues and it gets to -26F here on occasion...
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11-13-2015, 11:44 AM
#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
just a couple tips:
1. Don't fear driving your car. It's meant to be driven and the J32 engine likes to be red lined. It really does. The problem with babying the engine all the time is that you start to develop heavy carbon deposits on top of the piston. Once you eventually do Rev up the engine, that carbon can break loose. The last thing you want is for a piece of it to cause one of your valves to be left stuck open longer than it should and burning it out.
2. First off, im gonna give you shit for buying something without even being sure if it's OK for your car. Dummy! Now that we got that out of the way (lol), you are OK to use 0w-20 year round. The zero in front of the "w" represents the oil viscosity upon a cold start. 0 is the thinnest oil you can buy, however, it still causes engine "damage" to occur upon start up because it is too thick to do its job right. 5w-20 is slightly thicker upon start up and as such, damage still occurs. It's literally unavoidable. You're better off using 0w-20 oil though. But to be honest, you'll likely never notice a difference between the two. There's a good chance your engine will still last just as long regardless.
1. Don't fear driving your car. It's meant to be driven and the J32 engine likes to be red lined. It really does. The problem with babying the engine all the time is that you start to develop heavy carbon deposits on top of the piston. Once you eventually do Rev up the engine, that carbon can break loose. The last thing you want is for a piece of it to cause one of your valves to be left stuck open longer than it should and burning it out.
2. First off, im gonna give you shit for buying something without even being sure if it's OK for your car. Dummy! Now that we got that out of the way (lol), you are OK to use 0w-20 year round. The zero in front of the "w" represents the oil viscosity upon a cold start. 0 is the thinnest oil you can buy, however, it still causes engine "damage" to occur upon start up because it is too thick to do its job right. 5w-20 is slightly thicker upon start up and as such, damage still occurs. It's literally unavoidable. You're better off using 0w-20 oil though. But to be honest, you'll likely never notice a difference between the two. There's a good chance your engine will still last just as long regardless.
2) Hahaha I know. I did, however look it up and found something by Acura stating full synthetic 0w-20 was okay to use, but my dad also told me Honda specs their engines to the tenthousandth, which is essentially 10x more precise than GM vehicles (he has GM and Honda vehicles), and thus advised me to only use what the engine was specifically designed for, 5w-20. So I returned the 0w-20 and bought the 5w-20. And yeah, I know what the numbers stand for. Thanks though.
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