mdrolet77

I bought and used a Fram extra guard oil filter last time (they were out of stock on the mobil1 ones that I usually use) and got quite a suprise when I replaced it at the next change. The filter was broken, the top crown inside the filter was loose so the oil just blew by so it didn't filter anything really.

Naturally the oil was very dirty and since there was no way for me to know for how long it had been like that or if the filter had lost some metal shards when it broke, it made me really mad.

I was mad enough to give them a call and see what they would have to say about it and well it turns out they didn't have much to say about it at all, they just offered me to replace the falty part. Like I would want to use another of theirs and see if it breaks as well...

Only good news in this is that after 500 miles the engine didn't take up any oil so I'm guessing I didn't get any significant damage from it.

Guess ill be sticking to Mobil 1 and look around in other stores when they run out...

blueracer17

I wouldn't put a fram filter on a lawnmower.

LaCostaRacer

If a store was out of Mobil1 filters, I would definitely go with Purolator over Fram. I have never had a problem with a Purolator filter and use them all the time now.

dcmodels

Where is a FRAM filter made?

I have used a Purolator on my Chevy 4x4, but only because it is protected behind the skid pan on the bottom (heavy aluminum). Problem is, the Pure One that I used has a very thin housing, which basically bent and started to collapse when I removed it. No way would I use it on my RDX, because the filter hangs down low. The newer fully synthetic Purolator may have a thicker housing - have never checked.

The Purolator web site specifically states that the CLASSIC is only for highway and low mileage driving, but *not* for city driving or high mileage. And that the Pure One should be replaced every 3-months or 3K miles, so again I would not use either of these models on my car.

Anyway, I use only Mobil-1 and K&N (basically same filter) on my RDX, just because they both have a very heavy (thick steel) housing.

YeuEmMaiMai

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...337051&fpart=9 is about 5 years old but it is the best list I could find as to who makes what

I hate cars

The good thing is one interval with unfiltered oil is not the end of the world. As long as your air filter is in good shape you're probably fine.

The thing I would worry about is filter media or any other parts disintegrating and going through the pump and the engine. If it looks like the filter is all there but it just split apart I would look at it as a lesson learned and move on.

This is one of the reasons I run the Royal Purple filter. A wire reinforced synthetic media, metal end caps, thick canister, silicone adbv instead of rubber and an o-ring seal instead of a gasket. Forget that it filters and flows better than just about any other filter, its extremely durable.

A question for my own knowledge, what month did you install the Fram and what oil weight do you run? Last, do you let the engine warm up before driving hard, specifically keeping rpm low? The filter should never fail but cold thick oil and high rpm will put the most stress on the filter.

Undying Dreams

iTrader: (3)

^ you just made me feel a whole lot better using RP.

bigballer8526

Mobil 1 filters tend to be 14 bucks or so around here.

So I switched to Napa platinum for a few bucks cheaper. Made by wix and build quality seems superior to that of mobil 1.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I run S2k Fram filters.

yoks032rs

I have always used fram never had a problem with them.
Occasionally the rubber gasket on the filter would stick
to the motor when replacing the filter,but no big deal.

I would chalk it up as faulty filter. As with anything man
made.

mdrolet77

I live in Canada so its pretty normal to have cold weather. I dont run the car hard when its still cold. Oil is per acuras recommended one and syntetic mobil 1

I havent seen a purolator filter yet so i guess they dont sell the here...

dcmodels

The only other filter of which I am aware, that also has wire reinforced 100% synthetic medium and silicone adbv, is the AC Delco Gold, only 3 models, for Corvette/ Camaro engines. I have run this filter in my Chevy V6 4x4 (yes it fits), but have a hard time justifying the cost (retail is around $25).

nfnsquared

No, it doesn't say that.

http://www.purolatorautofilters.net/...chure_1112.pdf

You left off the part where it says, "or as recommended by your vehicle manufacturer".

I've run the PureOne since the first oil change, now for 15 oil changes at an average OCI of 7500 miles and a max OCI of 10,800 miles. These filters are plenty fine for normal OCIs. Not a single problem with them and always low silicon levels.

dcmodels

YES, it does. QUOTE: For low-mileage or highway driving, a Purolator Classic oil filter is the oil filter of choice.

http://purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/purolatoroilfilters.aspx
and the table at the bottom of the page in that link clearly indicates that CLASSIC is *not* recommended for city driving. Sorry, not going to host and post a pic that you can see in that link.

QUOTE: Purolator PureONE oil filters should be replaced every 3,000 miles or 3 months depending on the driving conditions - or unless otherwise specified by the vehicle's manufacturer.

That quote is in BOLD on the Purolator web site, my color emphasis is added.
http://purolatorautofilters.net/products/oil_filters/Pages/pureoneoilfilters.aspx

Do as you like with your own car - you have not stated the time period of your OCI.

I simply stated what Purolator says on their own web site. Depends upon how long it took for you to drive that many miles - I certainly would not run a Pure One more than 3 months under any conditions. You do as you like.

LaCostaRacer

The Purolator case seems as strong or weak as the OEM filter and any other filter I have used. I have never tried a K&N/Mobile1 so perhaps that has a stronger case. For a TL something hitting the filter while driving, will cause some major damage to the suspension because the filter is higher than a lot of other components.

I usually use the PureOne but will not hesitate using a classic for one 7500 change cycle either. Even the classic filter rivals other filters in what it does. My time interval is usually 9 months between changes, but I use MobileOne synthetic for the oil

Also remember even the OEM filter change cycle is EVERY-OTHER oil change. The Purolator is better than new OEM filter designs and can easily last 15k miles. I always change the filter each oil change since it's not much more work and only cost 3-5 bucks. Seems like a good idea removing a filter's worth of old oil too.

nfnsquared

Yeah, my intervals on the PureOne are usually around 7-9 months.

dcmodels

Any filter case that flexes with a gentle squeeze I think twice about using. To me, the Purolator Pure One does seem less sturdy than most other filters.

So? Again, I stated what Purolator has to say about their own oil filters, not what Honda has to say about using the Honda OEM oil filter. Honda does not say to use a Purolator oil filter.

If you think you should use the Purolator longer than what Purolator says, your choice.

nfnsquared

I'm holding a Pure One right now (in fact I have 5 on the shelf). It does not flex with a gentle squeeze. Not sure where you're getting that from.

LaCostaRacer

DcModels: yes I squeezed a PureOne and it doesn't flex. I'm either very weak or you're incredibly strong to flex that filter. But the big point I have is why would flexing the exterior of a filter make a difference in how it functions? You can flex an air filter but that's OK- it still does the job of filtering correct?

As far as what Purolator's own web site says. All I can say is before PureOne and PureSynthetic filters came out the classic was it and I don't remember seeing any disclaimers on using that filter. I think the statement is more to sell the more expensive versions personally. You cut open a Purolator classic and you will see metal end fittings and other features of a much more expensive filter. The PureOne is just better in it's filtering capabilities but the classic is by no means any slouch in that regard either.

Like you write, filters and change intervals are personal choices we each make. I hope you're just as particular in how frequent you change the cabin air filter too regarding the air you breath while in the car. That filter gets very dirty in < years time where I live.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

+1 on the Royal Purple filter. I've been using it for the last few years. Here's a good video that shows a cut-away.

dcmodels

I answered this question in Post #4 of this thread. This quote is from Mobil-1 web site:
[my edit: Mobil-1 oil filter] Withstands up to nine times the normal system operating pressure

So Mobil also thinks a sturdy oil filter case/ canister is important.

"I hate cars" asked in Post #6 of this thread about the time-of-year that the OP installed his filter. Now, I am not certain why he asked, but for myself, when the oil is cold and I need to accelerate suddenly, perhaps to avoid an accident, I want to know that the filter is not going to burst: either internally or externally. Also, there are other factors which can cause a sudden very high oil pressure. Yes, that is a failure, perhaps of the oil circuit pressure release valve, but I want to know that IF that happens, the oil filter is not going to dump all of the engine oil on the ground and destroy my engine.

And since these questions have wandered far afield from the OP's original question, and because I am answering the same questions again from other posters, I am done with this thread.

Yes, I am
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=869210

Pat04TL

mdrolet, thanks for sharing. I ran "orange death" most of my younger years and luckily didn't have any issues. Nevertheless, it only costs like a buck or two more for a Purolator Pure-One filter that has gotten nothing but rave reviews. Sorry for your ordeal, but it does add some hard evidence of what we all suspected, that orange death got its nickname for reason....

soulimports

i work a mitsu dealer and just use the denso mitsu filter for 4 bucks same size as the honda filter
fram is not trusted id use a purolator or wix before fram

cbptls

I'm a Pure One use, no problems here. I would stay away from FRAM.

SharksBreath

iTrader: (33)

RP or bust.

350

iTrader: (4)

The only Fram product I would use is a cabin air filter, cause they make one with charcoal and baking soda in it. Never ever on the engine. I've never had an issue with M1 filters but I would consider trying the Royal Purple ones. I have an extra M1-110 on the shelf and don't drive a lot of miles so it'll probably be a a year before I go filter shopping again. If going RP, would anyone recommend getting the S2K spec filter or the TL one? I know with OEM filters S2K is better but if going to a better filter does it make a difference?

Acura-OC

You will not trust it with your car engine but you trust it with your health?

350

iTrader: (4)

Apples and oranges, the cabin filter just has to block dust with the HVAC system running and the temperature extremes aren't as high so no real risk of failure. Open the windows or door for a split second and you've already let more dust in. The Fram ones also block some odors which is a plus, it's not really a health issue. If I ever need a blood transfusion or something I'll ask the doc not to use a Fram filter.

Comptechtl2367

I wont get on the rant about how FRAM filters suck because I have done that on here before. You get what you pay for, buy Wix or Royal Purple. Think about it like this, if it fails... How much will it cost you to fix and how much did you just save on this crap filter?!

Acura-OC

This is not apples and oranges, this is what you do when you truly love someone. I can take all the abuse but not my true love - Acura TL. Isn't she sexy?

mdrolet77

Would you be suggesting that the outside air is unsafe to breathe?

Cabin air filter is mostly to keep the dust out, most cars don't even have them.

dcmodels

I would, although others might not. It is well established that heavy city traffic air in L.A. or New York is not healthy for you. Even the air in Denver or Salt Lake cannot meet the current EPA standards.

An activated carbon filter can indeed remove unhealthy (cancer-causing) diesel engine particles and auto-polution gases. If yours is a serious question, please see the link I posted above in post #21, concerning carbon-type cabin filters.

And if your car did not come with a cabin filter, you can purchase (online at least), an automotive interior recirculating activated carbon-type filter.

I guess this question really depends on where you live, the type of traffic in which you drive, and how many hours a day you spend in heavy traffic inside your car. 3 hours a day on the L.A. freeways??

The wife's RDX has a carbon cabin filter - my truck has no filter at all, but then, I never drive in rush hour traffic.

I hate cars

I run the Fram carbon and baking soda cabin filter. I usually have to change the regular filter every year so now that I'm coming up on 6 months I might replace this one. While you still get smells from outside, they're reduced and I really noticed the difference the first time I got back in the car after using this type of filter the first time. The car smells fresh and clean all the time. I put one in the parents Camry and the fiancées Murano. The fiancée is what I would call a very girly girl and she was very happy with the results.

pimpin-tl

Rp do look good. So does Amsoil and k&n.

I hate cars

I ran the Amsoil EAO filters for a long time due to their synthetic media and metal endcaps. I switched to RP mostly because they had a superior anti drainback valves. After the car sat all night, the oil pressure light went out in half the time using the same size RP filter. Plus RP offers all of the benefits of the Amsoil and I think slightly better beta ratios for superior filtration though both are very good.

I believe the synthetic media is licensed to RP and Amsoil by Donaldson. They're both very similar, almost identical except for pore size.

K&N is not on my list because it costs the same as the true synthetic media filters so I can't think of a single reason to use it over the Amsoil or RP unless you really like the nut. Same goes for the M1 filter. Why would you not choose the better filter when cost is the same.

dcmodels

Don't disagree, so no argument from me - just commenting on my own decision.

K&N because I use the nut to safety wire, and wiring another filter takes me 15-20 minutes.

I have used M1 simply because it is 'free' when there is an oil sale, and until recently I have been using Mobil-1 oil.

However, I am now using RedLine 5W30 in my turbo RDX, so I will probably be switching to the RP filter as well. I can purchase RedLine oil for <$9 per quart from CARQUEST, locally over-the-counter, if anyone is looking for a cheap place to buy this oil.

BTW, I have spoken several times with the techs at Champion, late at night, when I guess they are bored. I have been told that M1, K&N, RP, and the AC Delco Gold filters are all made in that same place, although there are differences between these filters (M1 and K&N basically same).

dcmodels

While searching for something else, I found this interesting site, which compares most common oil filters, and includes can/case thickness.

PUROLATOR (Classic?) = 0.011 inches
Mobil-1 = 0.017 inches
K&N = 0.022 inches

I will note that the Purolator which fits my Chevy truck (size M-201), which is 1.5 times the volume of the Purolator that fits my RDX (size M-110), is easier for me to flex. Sorry, I do not have the Purolator p/n for the two filters memorized.

As a comparison, a 3x5 inch paper note card is about 0.010 inches thick, and 15-pound computer printer paper is 0.004 inches thick.

Also note that the web site has old data, as the Purolator described has a Straight Weld center core, while current Purolator filters (and most other brands as well), currently use a Single Spiral center steel core. But I doubt that the can itself has changed - at least it does not appear to me that they have. They are still just as easy (or not, depending on brand), for me to 'flex' by squeezing.

Alas, the Royal Purple filter is not included in the web site comparisions. Just providing some additional info:
http://www.fleetfilter.com/comparison-purolator-filter.html

350

iTrader: (4)

Exactly, like I said it's the only Fram product I'll use, it's better than a plain paper filter. I put one in my wife's car and in my last vehicle. Which reminds me I'm probably overdue on the TL.