Oil Change - Any Non Synthetic People Out There?
#1
Oil Change - Any Non Synthetic People Out There?
I know a lot of people do synthetic oil change due to longer milage on each oil change and also better oil and etc. But I get lifetime oil change at my dealer for free (regular oil and OEM filter around every 3K miles).
Anyone know or see any long term concerns with using regular oil every 3K instead of synthetic?
Anyone know or see any long term concerns with using regular oil every 3K instead of synthetic?
#4
I don't know what "regular" oil means anymore. The lowest cost, most basic oil change at my dealer and at the local independent I frequent is Synthetic Blend.
Is their any pure conventional dino oil out there anymore?
For the "normal" user, a decent Synthetic Blend should be fine for an OCI of 3,000 to 4,500 miles, don't you think?
BTW - The current spec OEM Oil Filter for the TL/TL-S is generally thought to be crap. The old spec was a much better filter based on what I've read.
Is their any pure conventional dino oil out there anymore?
For the "normal" user, a decent Synthetic Blend should be fine for an OCI of 3,000 to 4,500 miles, don't you think?
BTW - The current spec OEM Oil Filter for the TL/TL-S is generally thought to be crap. The old spec was a much better filter based on what I've read.
#6
Personally I like the idea of more frequent changes using any decent oil. I'm sure the experts will say the oil is fine for 5000 miles but the filters seem to be lower and lower quality these days so having them replaced more frequently is bound to be better. I also believe that oil that stays in an engine longer is more prone to sludging which can kill an engine. I am not an expert but I've heard too many stories about the Camry and RX300 sludging problems with owners having to fork out 10K for new engines.
On my TL, I run until MID=50% then change oil with a decent dyno oil like Pennzoil. My Mid=50% usually comes up around 4000Km so I am changing oil more often than I did on my previous vehicle at 5000Km. On our RX300 I run 5000Km on Mobile1 synthetic per change. I choose Mobil One because of the well known sludging flaw in the 3.0L series engines. I thought it would offer the best protection for 5000Km but I am thinking of increasing the frequency of changes but use a cheaper dyno oil.
On my TL, I run until MID=50% then change oil with a decent dyno oil like Pennzoil. My Mid=50% usually comes up around 4000Km so I am changing oil more often than I did on my previous vehicle at 5000Km. On our RX300 I run 5000Km on Mobile1 synthetic per change. I choose Mobil One because of the well known sludging flaw in the 3.0L series engines. I thought it would offer the best protection for 5000Km but I am thinking of increasing the frequency of changes but use a cheaper dyno oil.
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#8
Originally Posted by Bearcat94
I don't know what "regular" oil means anymore. The lowest cost, most basic oil change at my dealer and at the local independent I frequent is Synthetic Blend.
Is their any pure conventional dino oil out there anymore?
For the "normal" user, a decent Synthetic Blend should be fine for an OCI of 3,000 to 4,500 miles, don't you think?
Is their any pure conventional dino oil out there anymore?
For the "normal" user, a decent Synthetic Blend should be fine for an OCI of 3,000 to 4,500 miles, don't you think?
Synthetic Blend Oil
What is it ?
Synthetic Blends, also known as semi-synthetic, use mix of non-conventional oils in combination with conventional petroleum oil.
The "synthetic" content is usually less than 10% and sometimes as low as 2%.
What are the inherent problems ?
Synthetic Blends offer NO advantage to consumers as they are priced two to three times higher than petroleum, they however offer much greater profits to marketers as they are much less expensive to produce than fully synthetic oils.
What must be done ?
For dependable, long-lasting performance and long-term engine protection in all motor vehicles in all climatic conditions "semi-synthetic" oils also MUST be supplemented with "additives" which prolong the oil service life and reduce the wear to "acceptable" level.
Why is it used ?
Huge investments in advertising and promotion of Synthetics benefit the sales of Synthetic Blends as consumers do not realize that they are getting very little extra performance over petroleum at much higher per quart price.
#9
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
if my dealer gave me free oil changes for a lifetime I'd take advantage of it IN FULL
sure I'd bring myself an s2000 filter or a hamp oil filter and 5 quarts of 5w30 from amsoil or royal purple
^ the oil change is still free but you bring your own stuff, I don't care that is has the "Honda or Acura" name on it
sure I'd bring myself an s2000 filter or a hamp oil filter and 5 quarts of 5w30 from amsoil or royal purple
^ the oil change is still free but you bring your own stuff, I don't care that is has the "Honda or Acura" name on it
#21
Originally Posted by Tripnbeats
5w30 is thinner than 5w20 why would you put thinnner oil in if you live in NYC during the winter?
#23
If you get free oil changes for the lifetime of the vehicle then I say take it. It's nothing wrong with using conventional oil, just make sure you change it every 3,000 miles and do it religously. From what I've read synthetic last longer. Research shows that synthetic oils are better because of the additives that it contains.
#24
Originally Posted by darksky
I think you have the backwards; lower numbers correspond to LOWER viscosities, thus 5W-20 is "thinner" than 5W-30. I also think you can get away with lower weight oils in modern engines due to the decreasing tolerances. Anyway, use what Acura recommends
Low Viscosity = Low resistance to flow = "thinner" fluid = Lower Number (5W20).
High Viscosity = High resistance to flow = "thicker" fluid = Higher Number (10W30).
#25
ok here is the deal:
the low number is the oils resistance/ability to flow measured at 32 degrees F
thats ~the part~ of the oil in play at start up- cold starts
The higher number is at 200 degrees F and is the oils normal operating temp and flow
Acura went to 20 to eek a tiny bit of mileage out of the cars, improving their overall efficiency for the company-CAFE- all govt bs~ not done because its good for the car!!!!
If you want cold protection use 0-20 or 0-30, that stuff flows right away even in Canada!
Synthetics perform better at cold temp startup.
Synthetics OCI is 7500 to 12k + with analysis and possibly change the filter halfway.
Dino or regular oil is good for 5000 miles no sweat. That 3k was old school and oil is made way better now.
the low number is the oils resistance/ability to flow measured at 32 degrees F
thats ~the part~ of the oil in play at start up- cold starts
The higher number is at 200 degrees F and is the oils normal operating temp and flow
Acura went to 20 to eek a tiny bit of mileage out of the cars, improving their overall efficiency for the company-CAFE- all govt bs~ not done because its good for the car!!!!
If you want cold protection use 0-20 or 0-30, that stuff flows right away even in Canada!
Synthetics perform better at cold temp startup.
Synthetics OCI is 7500 to 12k + with analysis and possibly change the filter halfway.
Dino or regular oil is good for 5000 miles no sweat. That 3k was old school and oil is made way better now.
#26
I have used dino in my 04 TL since new, no problems whatsoever. Change it about every 5000 miles and you will be fine. I agree with what others have said here, it seems that the Honda filters are getting cheaper and may be more of a problem then dino oil.
#27
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
ok here is the deal:
the low number is the oils resistance/ability to flow measured at 32 degrees F
thats ~the part~ of the oil in play at start up- cold starts
The higher number is at 200 degrees F and is the oils normal operating temp and flow
Acura went to 20 to eek a tiny bit of mileage out of the cars, improving their overall efficiency for the company-CAFE- all govt bs~ not done because its good for the car!!!!
If you want cold protection use 0-20 or 0-30, that stuff flows right away even in Canada!
Synthetics perform better at cold temp startup.
Synthetics OCI is 7500 to 12k + with analysis and possibly change the filter halfway.
Dino or regular oil is good for 5000 miles no sweat. That 3k was old school and oil is made way better now.
the low number is the oils resistance/ability to flow measured at 32 degrees F
thats ~the part~ of the oil in play at start up- cold starts
The higher number is at 200 degrees F and is the oils normal operating temp and flow
Acura went to 20 to eek a tiny bit of mileage out of the cars, improving their overall efficiency for the company-CAFE- all govt bs~ not done because its good for the car!!!!
If you want cold protection use 0-20 or 0-30, that stuff flows right away even in Canada!
Synthetics perform better at cold temp startup.
Synthetics OCI is 7500 to 12k + with analysis and possibly change the filter halfway.
Dino or regular oil is good for 5000 miles no sweat. That 3k was old school and oil is made way better now.
I concur
#28
if my dealer gave me free oil changes for a lifetime I'd take advantage of it IN FULL
sure I'd bring myself an s2000 filter or a hamp oil filter and 5 quarts of 5w30 from amsoil or royal purple
^ the oil change is still free but you bring your own stuff, I don't care that is has the "Honda or Acura" name on it
sure I'd bring myself an s2000 filter or a hamp oil filter and 5 quarts of 5w30 from amsoil or royal purple
^ the oil change is still free but you bring your own stuff, I don't care that is has the "Honda or Acura" name on it
Why?
Because my time is worth something. I can change my own oil in 15 minutes, and for $18 with a Purolator Pure One filter. If I drive to Pohanka, that's 30 minutes each way, plus about an hour at the dealer. So I'm out 2 hours of my time for something I can do in 15 minutes, and use higher quality components. And, taking your own stuff to the dealer?? Now, I'm out time and money just to not have to lay on my back for 5 minutes. No thanks.
If you don't have any place you can do it yourself, and have no mechanical ability, then yeah, maybe your better off at the dealer. For me, though, performing at least basic maintenance on one's own car is one of the required "man skills," IMO. Plus, you have better first hand knowledge of how it's done. Nobody cares for your car like you do- might as well put it in the best hands.
I use Mobil1 5W-20- a little extra protection for those 7000rpm blasts.
#31
Originally Posted by T Ho
I got the same deal from Pohanka, and haven't taken advantage of it.
Why?
Because my time is worth something. I can change my own oil in 15 minutes, and for $18 with a Purolator Pure One filter. If I drive to Pohanka, that's 30 minutes each way, plus about an hour at the dealer. So I'm out 2 hours of my time for something I can do in 15 minutes, and use higher quality components. And, taking your own stuff to the dealer?? Now, I'm out time and money just to not have to lay on my back for 5 minutes. No thanks.
If you don't have any place you can do it yourself, and have no mechanical ability, then yeah, maybe your better off at the dealer. For me, though, performing at least basic maintenance on one's own car is one of the required "man skills," IMO. Plus, you have better first hand knowledge of how it's done. Nobody cares for your car like you do- might as well put it in the best hands.
I use Mobil1 5W-20- a little extra protection for those 7000rpm blasts.
Why?
Because my time is worth something. I can change my own oil in 15 minutes, and for $18 with a Purolator Pure One filter. If I drive to Pohanka, that's 30 minutes each way, plus about an hour at the dealer. So I'm out 2 hours of my time for something I can do in 15 minutes, and use higher quality components. And, taking your own stuff to the dealer?? Now, I'm out time and money just to not have to lay on my back for 5 minutes. No thanks.
If you don't have any place you can do it yourself, and have no mechanical ability, then yeah, maybe your better off at the dealer. For me, though, performing at least basic maintenance on one's own car is one of the required "man skills," IMO. Plus, you have better first hand knowledge of how it's done. Nobody cares for your car like you do- might as well put it in the best hands.
I use Mobil1 5W-20- a little extra protection for those 7000rpm blasts.
#33
Originally Posted by sybaek3
You might not feel like you want do your own oil change when your car gets older especially when you got kids running around.
Right now- 15 minutes, and the assurance of knowing the filter is on correctly, and the drain plug is not overtorqued= priceless.
EDIT: Here in Northern VA, the landfill will also take it- every Saturday the household hazardous waste area is open for collection. I run down there about once/year (only change every 6 months or so).
#34
Originally Posted by Bearcat94
For all you "Self Changers" - Where do you dispose of your old oil?
There is a limit of 5 gallons per visit which might vary state-to-state. The best container to use is an empty bottle that holds windshield washer fluid or those large gallon containers of orange juice. If you're like me, you'll buy your oil in a larger container (it's 5 quarts I think) which is not only cheaper than buying individual quart sized containers, it's also makes an idle container when empty for the used stuff.
#35
something to consider if you do want to take care of your car a little better, is to pay a little extra and have your dealer use synthetic, so it might be a $10-20 oil change instead of completely free.
#37
I followed the MMS with my 2006 Accord and had the oil changed at the dealer with whatever brand 5W-20 they use. The MMS would signal for an oil change anywhere between 5K - 7K. I had the oil analysis done each time by Blackstone labs. Each time the analysis showed that the oil had usable service life in it (low contaminants, addititives still present, etc...), tho it was near the end.
In regards to the filter lasting for that long, I think that if the filter wasn't doing its job, it would show in the analysis so it seems to be working fine. Tho the owner's manual recommends changning the filter every other time, I did specficy to change everytime I had the oil done.
On a side note, the only reason I don't like MMS is because it lengthens the tire rotation interval. By the time it signals to rotate the tires, one set already has significant wear which IMO defeats the purpose of rotating to keep treads even thru out their life. Moving forward, I'll change my oil every 5,000K (with 5W-20 dino and a new OEM filter) to keep it in sync with the tire rotation.
In regards to the filter lasting for that long, I think that if the filter wasn't doing its job, it would show in the analysis so it seems to be working fine. Tho the owner's manual recommends changning the filter every other time, I did specficy to change everytime I had the oil done.
On a side note, the only reason I don't like MMS is because it lengthens the tire rotation interval. By the time it signals to rotate the tires, one set already has significant wear which IMO defeats the purpose of rotating to keep treads even thru out their life. Moving forward, I'll change my oil every 5,000K (with 5W-20 dino and a new OEM filter) to keep it in sync with the tire rotation.
#40
I can not stand seeing people waste their money on syn blend oils. Just stick to the good old stuff that has been working for years. I change my oil every 2500 - 3000 miles and with changing it often and using good quality oil your good to go.