Oil Change? for 3rd Gen TLs?
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Funny, but my sister was one of those people, you know the ones, the kind
that show up for dinner with a flat tire and did not know it!
Well, she had a mitsubisi cordia L, and changed the oil once a year, that
is, she would take it in once a year and have whatever it needed done to it.
She actualy put on about 15,000 miles a year on it, then gave it to her husband
who gave it to his brother. When my brother in law gave it to his brother, it had
170,000 miles on it and still ran well. I think its still running.
Three timing belts and thats about it for motor work...
Brett
that show up for dinner with a flat tire and did not know it!
Well, she had a mitsubisi cordia L, and changed the oil once a year, that
is, she would take it in once a year and have whatever it needed done to it.
She actualy put on about 15,000 miles a year on it, then gave it to her husband
who gave it to his brother. When my brother in law gave it to his brother, it had
170,000 miles on it and still ran well. I think its still running.
Three timing belts and thats about it for motor work...
Brett
Originally Posted by Brettg
Funny, but my sister was one of those people, you know the ones, the kind
that show up for dinner with a flat tire and did not know it!
Well, she had a mitsubisi cordia L, and changed the oil once a year, that
is, she would take it in once a year and have whatever it needed done to it.
She actualy put on about 15,000 miles a year on it, then gave it to her husband
who gave it to his brother. When my brother in law gave it to his brother, it had
170,000 miles on it and still ran well. I think its still running.
Three timing belts and thats about it for motor work...
Brett
that show up for dinner with a flat tire and did not know it!
Well, she had a mitsubisi cordia L, and changed the oil once a year, that
is, she would take it in once a year and have whatever it needed done to it.
She actualy put on about 15,000 miles a year on it, then gave it to her husband
who gave it to his brother. When my brother in law gave it to his brother, it had
170,000 miles on it and still ran well. I think its still running.
Three timing belts and thats about it for motor work...
Brett
Originally Posted by RBallman
Right! And it never even needed a set of ignition wires either.........


on its yearly service, but last I looked at it at about 140,000 miles, it looked
as bad under the hood as a car can look. They are both incredibly cheap (and they dont have to be), and not car people, if it starts and runs it must be fine sort of people. Its quite shocking how little you can actualy do and have a car keep running. The brother in laws new car is a 1985 dodge aries, which he loves!
Brett
I plan to follow the mid, and just got the first change at 6,300 miles. The dealer does the first one free, so I let them use whatever oil they wanted.
I'll do the changes between major service intervals myself with Quaker State 10-30, Acura or Fram filters, and new crush washers.
I'll do the changes between major service intervals myself with Quaker State 10-30, Acura or Fram filters, and new crush washers.
Originally Posted by pzero23
I like to change it every 3 k with mobile one or amsoil 5 w 30
3k is overkill for regular oil. You could definately go with the MID and still have plenty of protection to spare.
Originally Posted by bfogarty
The 3rd generation TL has a sealed system that is good for the life of the car and helps maintain vibrations in the steering wheel and floorboard at certain vibrations. Changing the oil may void the warranty.
Originally Posted by bfogarty
The 3rd generation TL has a sealed system that is good for the life of the car and helps maintain vibrations in the steering wheel and floorboard at certain vibrations. Changing the oil may void the warranty.
Originally Posted by GeraldB
I'll do the changes between major service intervals myself with Quaker State 10-30, Acura or Fram filters, and new crush washers.
Originally Posted by DMZ
The recommended oil for this car is 5W-20. The top 'A' mechanic at Acura of Manhattan says it's the ONLY grade that should be used in this car under any circumstances. He further went on to recommend ONLY synthetic be used and that he thinks Mobil 1 is the best of the bunch. It's all he uses in his cars.
Thus, it really doesn't matter which 0w-20/5w-20/0w-30/5w-30/10w-30 you use, its about picking out the one that best suits your budget and your drain interval. Most 5w-20 oils have a HT/HS of 2.6cp, and is more than sufficient for most driving conditions. Of course, I wouldn't hesistate to use a thicker oil if you're going to be doing some serious racing or very hard driving (auto-x, etc)...in that case I'd use an oil such as Amsoil 5w-30, which is a pretty good bang for the buck in my opinion, since it is formulated at about 10.6cst with a HT/HS of 3.2cp, and should not affect fuel economy significantly. If you are really in need of a thicker oil due to racing, etc, I'd make sure that you are using a synthetic 0w-30/5w-30/10w-30, instead of a conventional or blend, as the synthetic ones will have a more stable HT/HS and kinetic viscosity.
I don’t think Mobil 1’s 5w-20 is the best…Amsoil XL 5w-20 performs better even though it’s a GrpIII. However, I think that most conventional oils and blends are a good value for most people who change their oil every 5-6000 miles, as it is tough to beat $1-$2/qt oils such as Havoline 5w-20. The Quaker State 10w-30 the other person is using is fine, but the extra viscosity is probably unneeded.
I change mine when the MID tells me at about 20%. I always use 5-20 weight but will differentiate on brands depending what's on sale. I also use the Walmart Supertech filter which I understand is very good quality and also fits my Honda motorcycle.
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