Hey Guys, Installed Hawk Hps pads for front Brembo and OEM in rear. I did the sanding of rotor and cleaned it with soap/waterand used Crc Dis Brake Queit. Initially the brakes were perfect during break -in, grabbed nice and and tight with no squeals. Then im pulling in my driveway and the drivers right is squealing a little bit.Will it go away as they break in more?

 

Did you bed them in?

 

Yep Followed Hawks instructions, the squeal is very minimal, its when im rolling back on my driveway, there is a slight squeal.

 

Brembo brakes are awesome but the oem pads and Hawk pads have a slight noise at times in reverse. Kinda normal in my opinion. Ceramic pads tend to be a little more quiet.

 

Yeah im not that worried about it, now if it was making nois while braking on the highway thats different.

 

since they're new they will make a bit of noise to some degree - so long as it's not banshee like i think you're okay

 

The hawk directions are basic for the average user. You need to aggressivly bed the pads to the rotors- you have BREMBO fronts.
Here is MrHeelToes explanantion and method. It is developed from real world testing- I helped develop and write it ~
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899
and some good general info on pads and rotors and the dynamics of braking at work.
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1186131097

 

You used slippery grease on the backing of the pads right- not the orange glue type stuff?

 

Ok, that's understandable.. squeaking when backing up. I have that too with my Rotex Gold Kevlars on my '04 manual TL. Did three bedding in's before I got everything good.

On a different note, I noticed your Sig with a Glock in it. And you live in Maryland where getting a CCW is next to impossible, let along carrying open. Here in Virginia, we have both.. concealed and open carry. Not rubbing it in.. just planting a thought.

 

Yeah here you can get a license easily, if you have a cash business and your constantly carrying cash around.I actually don't own a Glock but i would like too, but my dad owns many firearms so iam a fan,Also love HK. What you got, if you don't mind me asking?

 

As the other subject is a bit off topic, I just sent you a PM for you to digest. The other subject is just as dear to me as are cars, so I could go on about it for some time, but this is not the forum for that (unless, of course, others wish to enter into the discussion and head it in that direction).

 

You guys are sanding your rotors with sand paper???

 

I didn't. My rotors were in excellent shape when I changed my front pads nearly two years ago. My stock pads still had a lot of life left in them.. perhaps more than 35-40,000 miles (I still have them in my garage). My reason for changing them was to reduce the amount of dusting and the Rotex pads did that by maybe 80 to 90%. My front pads now dust about the same amount as my '05 automatic TL.

 

Hawk brake pads say if you are not resurfacing the rotors on a lathe- then you need to clean the old brake pad residue off the surface. It will not agree with the Hawks and lessen their performance etc.

You remove the rotors and use wet/dry 130 grit sandpaper. Rinse fully with dishsoap and fresh water- then dry with compressed air, or use brake cleaner spray and apply liberally.
Dont worry about the texture- the new brake pads will take care of that right away, and it helps them bed faster.

Pad bedding is not a 1 time thing, may take several tries to get them started off right in life, then if you get stuck in traffic or do some mountain driving, its possible to glaze the pads, easily fixed with another bedding session using higher speeds

 

Yeah I'm familiar. I used to race motorcycles and we did it all of the time but with scotchbrite pads and can after can of brake cleaner. Literally after every 3 sessions on the track. To say I'm accustomed to replacing, cleaning, servicing, and breaking in or beading a brake set-up would be an understatement

Just figured it would work better to turn them on a lathe with a car. Mine (brembo's) are worn out after 18K on my Type S. The have formed a large lip and now I'm leaning towards just replacing the rotors and pads with an aftermarket combo. I drive a lot of city stop and go miles, plus tend to trail brake a bit so I'm not surprised that they wore a little faster than average.

 

Certainly if you have a lip or any grooves, they need the lathe. May as well do it right and have them turned on the car. The rotor cleaning is assuming good rotor condition and is a cleaning procedure only. Scotchbrite pads work- 120-150 grit works really fast!!

Back to the OP- was the stuff you used a slippery caliper grease or the sticky stuff?

 

I went to my local auto parts store and i used a spray which is sticky, called "CRC Disc Brake quiet", They set up is great grabs nice and tight, just minimal squeal when your rolling in neutral.