New clutch
be aware of the extensive labor hours required to remove and replace the transmission.
If the aftermarket pressure plate is like the stock one- its very trick and requires a special acura tool to install
there is a special system in the TL that makes the clutch pedal feel good right until the end- unlike a normal car that gives you some warning. see if that stays or gets changed with the new setup
as referance- the stock setup replacement parts and labor is ~2500-2800
If the aftermarket pressure plate is like the stock one- its very trick and requires a special acura tool to install
there is a special system in the TL that makes the clutch pedal feel good right until the end- unlike a normal car that gives you some warning. see if that stays or gets changed with the new setup
as referance- the stock setup replacement parts and labor is ~2500-2800
be aware of the extensive labor hours required to remove and replace the transmission.
If the aftermarket pressure plate is like the stock one- its very trick and requires a special acura tool to install
there is a special system in the TL that makes the clutch pedal feel good right until the end- unlike a normal car that gives you some warning. see if that stays or gets changed with the new setup
as referance- the stock setup replacement parts and labor is ~2500-2800
If the aftermarket pressure plate is like the stock one- its very trick and requires a special acura tool to install
there is a special system in the TL that makes the clutch pedal feel good right until the end- unlike a normal car that gives you some warning. see if that stays or gets changed with the new setup
as referance- the stock setup replacement parts and labor is ~2500-2800
Uhh.. I just replaced my clutch. OEMacuraparts.com had it for like 325ish. Fly wheel is like 600. throw-out bearing was 33 bucks. Labor was 800.
Total: $1758
I was able to have the fly wheel resurfaced so I scratched that. so my total was $1158
But while you are there I'd replaced the Clutch cylinder as well.
Total: $1758
I was able to have the fly wheel resurfaced so I scratched that. so my total was $1158
But while you are there I'd replaced the Clutch cylinder as well.
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I have 85 k on my 04 6 spd now with no hint of slipping. So what you are saying is one day my clutch will feel fine, and the next my car wont be driveable? Wont the clutch start to slip a bit under hard throttle? Also, how many miles have TL owners gotten out of their stock clutches? I see on this forum that 85 k is a lot of miles for the stock unit, a lot of people aren't getting past 30 k for some reason. I am a bit cash strapped now and I dont want to spend 2k for a replacement.
I consider myself to be a good manual driver and I dont abuse my car with hard launches, but I do get on it every once in a while.
I have 85 k on my 04 6 spd now with no hint of slipping. So what you are saying is one day my clutch will feel fine, and the next my car wont be driveable? Wont the clutch start to slip a bit under hard throttle? Also, how many miles have TL owners gotten out of their stock clutches? I see on this forum that 85 k is a lot of miles for the stock unit, a lot of people aren't getting past 30 k for some reason. I am a bit cash strapped now and I dont want to spend 2k for a replacement.
I have 85 k on my 04 6 spd now with no hint of slipping. So what you are saying is one day my clutch will feel fine, and the next my car wont be driveable? Wont the clutch start to slip a bit under hard throttle? Also, how many miles have TL owners gotten out of their stock clutches? I see on this forum that 85 k is a lot of miles for the stock unit, a lot of people aren't getting past 30 k for some reason. I am a bit cash strapped now and I dont want to spend 2k for a replacement.
I noticed my clutch was going bad because it started slipping during normal driving, all the way through third gear.
I replaced it at 44K.
dealer replacement prices reported by ziners is where the $2500 comes from for clutch jobs- with new pressure plate- TB bearing and clutch disc
Beaten cars 20k miles and ptttt,
all freeway cruise miles 60++
commute with lots of stop and go, when stopped you leave your foot on the clutch?
your on your own for mileage/lifespan guess!
Getting the car moving from stopped is the big load on the clutch, and being used to slow the car is the other-
use the brakes for slowing the car, and downshift to be in the correct rpm/torque/gear to accellerate off the corner.
Worthless downshifting thru the gears without intent is needless wear
The TL has nice downshift synchros- assuming yours have been fixed~
Beaten cars 20k miles and ptttt,
all freeway cruise miles 60++
commute with lots of stop and go, when stopped you leave your foot on the clutch?
your on your own for mileage/lifespan guess!
Getting the car moving from stopped is the big load on the clutch, and being used to slow the car is the other-
use the brakes for slowing the car, and downshift to be in the correct rpm/torque/gear to accellerate off the corner.
Worthless downshifting thru the gears without intent is needless wear
The TL has nice downshift synchros- assuming yours have been fixed~
I am gen2 owner, so have to rely on other ziners experience for this prob- but I read all the threads to keep up on the cars problems
(wife wants a gen3 since I lowered the 01 on teinSS etc)
see your owner book for info on the clutch system, but there really is a thing in the clutch -
iirc its built into the very expensive pressure plate- So that it will keep the `PEDAL FEEL` good all the way to day Zero of its life
You should notice slight slipping if you pay close attention, and test it: in 4th on a steep hill at 45mph- get on it full throttle - no slipping feel- your good!
the pedal feel- is that- FEEL- so the average driver will enjoy the car right until it stops- then call acura and have it towed!
Should last past the warranty on it- check that out
There have been slave cylinder failures-leaks, so check the master cyl res for correct level. If thats not working perfect the clutch suffers
Low wearout miles ~20k miles, has been mostly younger drivers, new to a stick and driving,,you remember how it was~ or a car purchased with 20 on it-
That should have been a clue,,who doesnt love the car and keep it more than a year?- they beat it and turned it in for another one! two weeks later the clutch goes,,
and guys/gals in heavy hours every day of commute traffic- serious clutch wearout
I'm a retired tech- once had a bmw where guy held the clutch pedal down while stopped in 1st gear in traffic- thinking `the car is not moving so its not wearing!` - right?- wrong!
Its wearing anytime the pedal is depressed
Bimmers have a very soft metal for the crankshaft- holding the clutch had worn the `endplay` of the crankshaft!!! past limits and needed a new crank, $1200 part- total engine removal and teardown to replace- plus the new clutch
Might be a good time for everyone to start saving 10, 20, 100 bucks a month into a TL maitenance fund
for the clutch,, and the major service at 100k miles.
Also replace your spark plugs now with the same stock NGK Iridium from parts stores everywhere, if over ~60k miles- its 50 bucks for 6 plugs
do a seafoam treatment DIY to the gas and intake manifold to restore like new performance and improve gas mileage- less than 20 bucks for that
thats my 2 cents-
01tl4tl
(wife wants a gen3 since I lowered the 01 on teinSS etc)
see your owner book for info on the clutch system, but there really is a thing in the clutch -
iirc its built into the very expensive pressure plate- So that it will keep the `PEDAL FEEL` good all the way to day Zero of its life
You should notice slight slipping if you pay close attention, and test it: in 4th on a steep hill at 45mph- get on it full throttle - no slipping feel- your good!
the pedal feel- is that- FEEL- so the average driver will enjoy the car right until it stops- then call acura and have it towed!
Should last past the warranty on it- check that out
There have been slave cylinder failures-leaks, so check the master cyl res for correct level. If thats not working perfect the clutch suffers
Low wearout miles ~20k miles, has been mostly younger drivers, new to a stick and driving,,you remember how it was~ or a car purchased with 20 on it-
That should have been a clue,,who doesnt love the car and keep it more than a year?- they beat it and turned it in for another one! two weeks later the clutch goes,,
and guys/gals in heavy hours every day of commute traffic- serious clutch wearout
I'm a retired tech- once had a bmw where guy held the clutch pedal down while stopped in 1st gear in traffic- thinking `the car is not moving so its not wearing!` - right?- wrong!
Its wearing anytime the pedal is depressed
Bimmers have a very soft metal for the crankshaft- holding the clutch had worn the `endplay` of the crankshaft!!! past limits and needed a new crank, $1200 part- total engine removal and teardown to replace- plus the new clutch

Might be a good time for everyone to start saving 10, 20, 100 bucks a month into a TL maitenance fund
for the clutch,, and the major service at 100k miles.
Also replace your spark plugs now with the same stock NGK Iridium from parts stores everywhere, if over ~60k miles- its 50 bucks for 6 plugs
do a seafoam treatment DIY to the gas and intake manifold to restore like new performance and improve gas mileage- less than 20 bucks for that
thats my 2 cents-
01tl4tl
If you can't get at the very minimum, 100,000 mile out of your stock clutch (assuming you are not racing, towing, living in San Francisco, or have an unexpected catastrophic problem), you are doing something very wrong.
I hardly know where to start with some of the comments on this thread.
I hardly know where to start with some of the comments on this thread.
Which should be evidence of either abusive operation or some unforeseen and unusual problem/failure. Barring the abusive part of the equation, the most common cause I have seen reported on these forums seems to revolve around the component which effects sudden and abrupt engagement or the hydraulic system itself. Does make one wonder why a manufacturer would want to make a simple and rather fool proof item like a clutch so complex and error prone if, in fact, it is.
Uhh.. I just replaced my clutch. OEMacuraparts.com had it for like 325ish. Fly wheel is like 600. throw-out bearing was 33 bucks. Labor was 800.
Total: $1758
I was able to have the fly wheel resurfaced so I scratched that. so my total was $1158
But while you are there I'd replaced the Clutch cylinder as well.
Total: $1758
I was able to have the fly wheel resurfaced so I scratched that. so my total was $1158
But while you are there I'd replaced the Clutch cylinder as well.
Why make something critical so complex and unreliable?
mmmm,, because they want to keep the service dept busy and keep the cars out of private shops hands by needing special Acura tools??
Service Dept is what makes the money for a dealership- new car sales is only there to create new service customers~
mmmm,, because they want to keep the service dept busy and keep the cars out of private shops hands by needing special Acura tools??
Service Dept is what makes the money for a dealership- new car sales is only there to create new service customers~
Why make something critical so complex and unreliable?
mmmm,, because they want to keep the service dept busy and keep the cars out of private shops hands by needing special Acura tools??
Service Dept is what makes the money for a dealership- new car sales is only there to create new service customers~
mmmm,, because they want to keep the service dept busy and keep the cars out of private shops hands by needing special Acura tools??
Service Dept is what makes the money for a dealership- new car sales is only there to create new service customers~
I think the clutch design is garbage. I put 130K on my old 91 Accord before I even started to feel any wear on the clutch. That car was bullet proof. My 05 3G has 38K, and I can already feel wear on the clutch. The clutch master was already replaced under warranty, and hydro line is bled with fresh fluid. I did buy the car used, but still, there is so many early failure posts, threads, and hearsay.
Uhh.. I just replaced my clutch. OEMacuraparts.com had it for like 325ish. Fly wheel is like 600. throw-out bearing was 33 bucks. Labor was 800.
Total: $1758
I was able to have the fly wheel resurfaced so I scratched that. so my total was $1158
But while you are there I'd replaced the Clutch cylinder as well.
Total: $1758
I was able to have the fly wheel resurfaced so I scratched that. so my total was $1158
But while you are there I'd replaced the Clutch cylinder as well.
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