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@vindroid Appreciate your perspective, and I'm not a moderator or trying to get into it with you, but there are some guidelines for posting and the very first one is:
"-If you are new you need to search before posting a thread. There is so much information in the garage and all over this site. I guarantee you, it's been asked before."
I'm actually glad I reviewed this again, because I read something I'd completely forgotten and been guilty of myself:
"It is frowned upon if you post in a thread that is over one year old. Please look at the date before posting. You can learn a lot from these old threads, but many members will give you a hard time for resurrecting these old threads."
I'm not scolding you and am trying to be respectful. While there are more socially oriented forums, by and large, this sub-forum is technical. And it's an amazing place to get help diagnosing and repairing problems with your TL. But asking how to prop a hood with shot struts can be found in less than 30 secs on YouTube. Try searching for "prop hood" or "alternative prop hood" or "hood won't stay open" and you'll have several video solutions in no time. Do you know how I got your Acura battery warranty question answered? I Googled it and found the info in less than a minute. And an even better trick for searching Acurazine because it's native search engine isn't great: prefix a Google search with "site:acurazine". For example Google this:
site:acurazine.com acura battery warranty
I don't want to discourage you, but if it appears you're not really trying to figure it out or perceived as being lazy, you're either going to get roasted or some pretty snide remarks (or both). Best of luck with your hood and battery!
@vindroid BTW, as I reviewed some of your past posts, it seems that you don't do much work, if any, on your TL, but instead take it to your Acura dealer. Some of the things you've inquired about are relatively easy fixes, even if you have little to no experience doing car repair. This is where the REAL value of this forum is: not only will people who actually know what they're talking about go out of their way to help you troubleshoot your TL's problems, but they'll often tell you EXACTLY how to fix them. You will be shocked that many repairs are actually fairly easy if you have YouTube, the guidance of this forum, and a copy of the service manual. Quick story...
I never did any of my own car work. We have a family friend who's a mechanic, so I knew he wouldn't take advantage of us. He was injured in an ATV accident several years ago and had to close his shop. Not long after I noticed that when I was backing out of my driveway and hit the street there was a "clunk" sound. For the first time ever, I decided to hit Google and see if I could figure it out. Unsurprisingly, my searches led me to several posts on this forum. All indications were that it was a bad side motor mount. I didn't even know WTF a motor mount was, so I turned to YouTube (YT). I learned what it was, where it was located, how to inspect it, and how to replace it. Sure enough, that thing was totally shot. It didn't look very hard to fix, so I ordered an OEM replacement on Amazon for $75 and gave it a shot. it wasn't hard at all and my "clunk" was gone. I am not mechanically inclined. In fact, I REALLY suck at it: if you opened my toolbox back then you'd find a note saying, "Call someone who knows what they're doing, you dipsh!t." If I have to take something apart, I can almost guarantee you that not only will I do it wrong and break something along the way, but I'll totally screw up putting it back together and it will take me 2-3 tries to do so.
Couple of things about shops: dealers will easily be the most expensive for both parts & labor. They'll only use OEM parts, which is fine, but you're going to pay a premium. Independent shops will be cheaper for labor and in many cases will repair your car with 3rd-party parts. There are many 3rd-party parts that are just as good as OEM at a fraction of the cost. But the independent shop is going to mark those parts up at least 2-4x. And I haven't even mentioned that this all assumes that the mechanic is both competent AND honest. Many aren't, and when they aren't, they can and will take advantage of you. Even at the dealership.
But if you leverage this forum & YT, not only will you learn to take care of your car yourself and remove all the crappy variables above, but you will also save a TON of money. Five years ago I had almost no tools. Since I started fixing things myself, I've acquired quite a few as I needed them. There's a cost for that (Harbor Freight is your friend), but compared to what I would have spent at a repair shop, I'm still way ahead and now I own the tools. Moreover, places like AutoZone & O'Reilly have "loaner programs" for a lot of tools. You "buy" them, but when you bring them back they give you a full refund. It's freakin' awesome because many of the things they offer you may only need once or twice, and now you don't even have to pay for them!
As it is with anything else, you need to evaluate whether your time is more valuable than paying someone else to fix things. If you decide it's worth it to keep paying dealer prices for parts & labor, you're free to do so. But the primary purpose of this forum is to help the DIY'er avoid both the dealership & any other repair shop. I did a rack replacement on a TL using only hand-tools in the middle of a brutal Phoenix summer. It was a total b*tch, but I wanted to see if I could do it. You know what: if I ever need to replace a rack again, there is no way on g*d's green earth that I'm going to do it myself. I will gladly pay a trustworthy mechanic instead...
Autozone Duralast AGM, still working after 4 years. Avg life for a battery is 3 - 3.5 years if you got more than that then you got lucky. One of my friend battery lasted 6 years lol.
Autozone Duralast AGM, still working after 4 years. Avg life for a battery is 3 - 3.5 years if you got more than that then you got lucky. One of my friend battery lasted 6 years lol.
Meh, only six years, not impressed.
Why? Here's a post I made earlier on in this thread:
Originally Posted by horseshoez
In my case, I got 9 years 10 months a Honda 100-Month FLA battery in my 2001 Accord; had I had the time to get to a Honda/Acura dealership when my battery died, I would have put one in my 2006 TL. Given I needed a battery fast, I went to Walmart and bought their best FLA battery in the correct size; so far at least, it has been flawless for the last 13 months. What has had me a bit worried since March of this year is the whole COVID-19 thing; prior to March I was driving roughly 1,200-1,500 miles per month; since then I've only driven 700 miles in over 4 months; there are now times my car goes two to three weeks without being started. The good news is, my HFL, which is still operative, is apparently not suffering from the almost universal battery drain issue as my car has started first time, every time, even after weeks of inactivity.
The main problem with modern car is that electronic does drain the battery after being fully off unlike your Accord. The battery is in a constant state of being drained all of the juice, to make the matter worst I don't drive my red TL that much anymore so does my friend and his TL (we do not turn the auto headlight feature off as recommended per user manual). when I said every time I move the red TL out garage I always need a portable jumper with me he said "me too". Also notice we are locate in the heat where temp constantly hovering over 95F.
Since the start of the pandemic my 2006 TL has gone as long as six weeks (and routinely goes four weeks) without being started; not a single battery drain issue to report.
Since the start of the pandemic my 2006 TL has gone as long as six weeks (and routinely goes four weeks) without being started; not a single battery drain issue to report.
Mine red TL live almost in permanent in the garage since 2017. I just did an oil change on it last weekend and the oil change before that was in early 2017.
@vindroid BTW, as I reviewed some of your past posts, it seems that you don't do much work, if any, on your TL, but instead take it to your Acura dealer. Some of the things you've inquired about are relatively easy fixes, even if you have little to no experience doing car repair. This is where the REAL value of this forum is: not only will people who actually know what they're talking about go out of their way to help you troubleshoot your TL's problems, but they'll often tell you EXACTLY how to fix them. You will be shocked that many repairs are actually fairly easy if you have YouTube, the guidance of this forum, and a copy of the service manual. Quick story...
I never did any of my own car work. We have a family friend who's a mechanic, so I knew he wouldn't take advantage of us. He was injured in an ATV accident several years ago and had to close his shop. Not long after I noticed that when I was backing out of my driveway and hit the street there was a "clunk" sound. For the first time ever, I decided to hit Google and see if I could figure it out. Unsurprisingly, my searches led me to several posts on this forum. All indications were that it was a bad side motor mount. I didn't even know WTF a motor mount was, so I turned to YouTube (YT). I learned what it was, where it was located, how to inspect it, and how to replace it. Sure enough, that thing was totally shot. It didn't look very hard to fix, so I ordered an OEM replacement on Amazon for $75 and gave it a shot. it wasn't hard at all and my "clunk" was gone. I am not mechanically inclined. In fact, I REALLY suck at it: if you opened my toolbox back then you'd find a note saying, "Call someone who knows what they're doing, you dipsh!t." If I have to take something apart, I can almost guarantee you that not only will I do it wrong and break something along the way, but I'll totally screw up putting it back together and it will take me 2-3 tries to do so.
Couple of things about shops: dealers will easily be the most expensive for both parts & labor. They'll only use OEM parts, which is fine, but you're going to pay a premium. Independent shops will be cheaper for labor and in many cases will repair your car with 3rd-party parts. There are many 3rd-party parts that are just as good as OEM at a fraction of the cost. But the independent shop is going to mark those parts up at least 2-4x. And I haven't even mentioned that this all assumes that the mechanic is both competent AND honest. Many aren't, and when they aren't, they can and will take advantage of you. Even at the dealership.
But if you leverage this forum & YT, not only will you learn to take care of your car yourself and remove all the crappy variables above, but you will also save a TON of money. Five years ago I had almost no tools. Since I started fixing things myself, I've acquired quite a few as I needed them. There's a cost for that (Harbor Freight is your friend), but compared to what I would have spent at a repair shop, I'm still way ahead and now I own the tools. Moreover, places like AutoZone & O'Reilly have "loaner programs" for a lot of tools. You "buy" them, but when you bring them back they give you a full refund. It's freakin' awesome because many of the things they offer you may only need once or twice, and now you don't even have to pay for them!
As it is with anything else, you need to evaluate whether your time is more valuable than paying someone else to fix things. If you decide it's worth it to keep paying dealer prices for parts & labor, you're free to do so. But the primary purpose of this forum is to help the DIY'er avoid both the dealership & any other repair shop. I did a rack replacement on a TL using only hand-tools in the middle of a brutal Phoenix summer. It was a total b*tch, but I wanted to see if I could do it. You know what: if I ever need to replace a rack again, there is no way on g*d's green earth that I'm going to do it myself. I will gladly pay a trustworthy mechanic instead...
Spot on and thank you for your perception. It's okay if @vindroid does not find value in AZ and decide not to come back, they're expecting spoonfed answers and quite honestly, given their post history, are not very handy so it really is best to let someone else handle their work
Since the start of the pandemic my 2006 TL has gone as long as six weeks (and routinely goes four weeks) without being started; not a single battery drain issue to report.
Two of mine are usually parked and started up at the beginning of the month. I have the Walmart battery in all of them (and the same one in my truck.)
The HFLs are disconnected. I have zero drain/starting problems, but I have had 2 of those batteries die just a couple months after warranty expires...
Two of mine are usually parked and started up at the beginning of the month. I have the Walmart battery in all of them (and the same one in my truck.)
The HFLs are disconnected. I have zero drain/starting problems, but I have had 2 of those batteries die just a couple months after warranty expires...
My HFL is still plugged in and operational; maybe you should plug your HFLs back in as well.
I have an Exide FP-AGM51R buried under my S/C'ed CL-S6 that has treated me well.
It gets trickle charged when the car sits for any length of time.
The manufacture date shows Jan 2018, and I purchased / received it thereabouts, maybe Feb 2018.
Today's current model offering from Excide looks like this.
AAA battery (FLA) lasted 6 years in my TL I didn't drive it much in that time but it was always on a trickle charger when not being driven.. definitely aided in its longevity.
I had my Type S parked with a new Costco battery for no more than 2 weeks before the battery would go flatline. Then you potentially lose max capacity.
It's better to get a battery trickle charger, it has come in use so many times already and goes on sale alot.
I’ve had the same interstate Battery in my sons 08 Honda for 3 + years, and my Boyfri
I’ve had the same interstate Battery in my sons 08 Honda for 3 + years, and my Boyfriend & I both have Interstate Batteries in our 2007 TL type S & 2008 RDX turbo no complaints here.
Originally Posted by jeffstlnote
Any luck with Interstate? Being a John Deere employee we get a discount....
I use a Braille AGM battery, SCCA membership gives you a 10% discount. Battery is small and weighs 18-21lbs, works as good as standard TL battery for $185.
07-27-2022, 09:22 PM
Won't I get 
?? 
