My rotors are warped at 5000 miles...
#41
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Bitium is correct. the only thing that cause disks to warp is heat build up caused by use.
I owned a 1995 BMW 325i that I had to have the factory disks replaced twice because they warped on me after only 5,000 miles each, under warrantee.
Then on my 1999 BMW 540i 6 speed I had one set of factory disks warp and one set of drilled rotors warp. BMW's are very prone to warping.
My mechanic friend told me it was due to the thickness of the disks and the heat build up, even though all BMW have cooling vents that direct cold air into the wheel well.
I owned a 1995 BMW 325i that I had to have the factory disks replaced twice because they warped on me after only 5,000 miles each, under warrantee.
Then on my 1999 BMW 540i 6 speed I had one set of factory disks warp and one set of drilled rotors warp. BMW's are very prone to warping.
My mechanic friend told me it was due to the thickness of the disks and the heat build up, even though all BMW have cooling vents that direct cold air into the wheel well.
#42
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Originally Posted by BML540
Bitium is correct. the only thing that cause disks to warp is heat build up caused by use.
I owned a 1995 BMW 325i that I had to have the factory disks replaced twice because they warped on me after only 5,000 miles each, under warrantee.
Then on my 1999 BMW 540i 6 speed I had one set of factory disks warp and one set of drilled rotors warp. BMW's are very prone to warping.
My mechanic friend told me it was due to the thickness of the disks and the heat build up, even though all BMW have cooling vents that direct cold air into the wheel well.
I owned a 1995 BMW 325i that I had to have the factory disks replaced twice because they warped on me after only 5,000 miles each, under warrantee.
Then on my 1999 BMW 540i 6 speed I had one set of factory disks warp and one set of drilled rotors warp. BMW's are very prone to warping.
My mechanic friend told me it was due to the thickness of the disks and the heat build up, even though all BMW have cooling vents that direct cold air into the wheel well.
#43
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by vtechbrain
Brembos haven't warped yet . Previous TL-S resurfaced once. Warping usually secondary to spirited driving, slow down!
dsc888
#44
Retired MOD
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Originally Posted by PeterUbers
Bitium, is there an aftermarket rotor you recommend (slotted/drilled?)
I decided to buy another set, but this time for the first time I just bought slotted, I think they are better and have less fade. No warping and trust me living in germany does make me drive like a maniac.
He will give me a special price, if you are interested, just PM me.
BTW, this are my 5th set of rotors including stock, but not including resurfacing in between.
#45
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Dealer replaced my front rotors.
Took my 4 1/2 month old car (12810 miles) in today for an oil change and asked that they check out the steering wheel shudder experienced under moderate braking from 65-70 mph.
They replaced the front rotors and installed new pads.
Jim
They replaced the front rotors and installed new pads.
Jim
#46
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by BML540
Bitium is correct. the only thing that cause disks to warp is heat build up caused by use.
I owned a 1995 BMW 325i that I had to have the factory disks replaced twice because they warped on me after only 5,000 miles each, under warrantee.
Then on my 1999 BMW 540i 6 speed I had one set of factory disks warp and one set of drilled rotors warp. BMW's are very prone to warping.
My mechanic friend told me it was due to the thickness of the disks and the heat build up, even though all BMW have cooling vents that direct cold air into the wheel well.
I owned a 1995 BMW 325i that I had to have the factory disks replaced twice because they warped on me after only 5,000 miles each, under warrantee.
Then on my 1999 BMW 540i 6 speed I had one set of factory disks warp and one set of drilled rotors warp. BMW's are very prone to warping.
My mechanic friend told me it was due to the thickness of the disks and the heat build up, even though all BMW have cooling vents that direct cold air into the wheel well.
I'm not sure about the bmw's being prone to warping...I had a 95 m3 with braided lines and cross drilled rotors and they never warped and I drove the hell outta that car...in fact your eyes would pop out if you slammed the brakes in that thing. My rotors on my tl have been warped since I bought it but I'm assuming it was a result of the driving habits of the previous owner. I'm about to buy some new rotors...any suggestions on some good slotted?
#47
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by wonder
Wasn't there a thread recently that pointed to a technical paper that stated that rotors almost never 'warp'. The problem comes from pad material unevenly deposited on the rotor because of heat. Pad and rotor material/metallurgy play a part also. Hard braking/repeated braking most often cause the problem. You can tell if you have the problem by looking at the rotors and seeing if the pad induced discoloration is evenly distributed. If not you can get vibration/rubbing. I'm not sure a visual inspection was the best way to check. I wish I could remember the link - it was very informative.
This is the cause of "warped" rotors the vast majority of the time. Pad build up. However cutting the rotor should give you a clean surface. In any case if you do go 5-10 HARD stops from 70-20 or so (you dont want to come to a complete stop) And then either drive around without stopping for 10-15 minutes to cool the brakes or stop somewhere where you can use the ebrake to stop and stand. The idea is you want to scrape off the old pad material and get the pads hot enough to redistribute a smooth layer of pad material on the rotor. Then allow it to cool without having the brake pad pressed against the face (This will leave an impression)
#48
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Originally Posted by Bitium
Buy a KIA...
^^^^^^^^^^^^^I'm with above stupid LOL
#49
WDP Director of R & D
Originally Posted by geekybiker
This is the cause of "warped" rotors the vast majority of the time. Pad build up. However cutting the rotor should give you a clean surface. In any case if you do go 5-10 HARD stops from 70-20 or so (you dont want to come to a complete stop) And then either drive around without stopping for 10-15 minutes to cool the brakes or stop somewhere where you can use the ebrake to stop and stand. The idea is you want to scrape off the old pad material and get the pads hot enough to redistribute a smooth layer of pad material on the rotor. Then allow it to cool without having the brake pad pressed against the face (This will leave an impression)
Seriously, I wont claim definitively that the above won't or couldn't happen, but I have turned probably 500+ pairs of rotors in my lifetime and not one was anything other than,,,,, you guessed it "warped..." Not a one had anything to do with brake pad material build up on the rotor. Just plain old "out of true" metal-rotor surface.
Next time you're in the shop and see a brake lathe. Run over and look in the waste tray. There's a reason it's full of "metal" shavings vs break pad material.
If you do perform the above procedure - be prepared to have even worse warpage after your 1-5 hard brake applications. Once warped, they only get worse.
Cheers
#50
A-spec steering wheel ftw
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yes, over tightening the lugs can warp your rotors faster, however, honestly I'm going to attribute this to just the way you drive. I go through the same thing. Actually, I don't really drive recklessly, I just drive a bit more aggresively, coupled with the horrible weather and the horrible drivers around where I drive, heavy braking is expected. You're from chi-town, i'm gonna assume the same.
honestly, just invest in some better quality rotors, and prepare to have em changed periodically. I have 19k miles on my 4 year TL and I've changed the rotors twice and have gotten 2 new sets of tires and changed the front twice. yea, it's pricey, but i enjoy driving the TL, and if i'm not a danger on the road to others, to each his own
btw, if it makes you feel any better, according to the trip computer, my MPG is 12/15......and i usually only drive local.....lol -> shrugzzzzzz (i just scrimp on food and play my stocks correctly to compensate )
but yea, just get new rotors, it's not worth brow breaking over this, the stock rotors are good, but not great, and if you're in stop and go traffic like in Chicago, it's even worse. I have to honestly say, Chicago traffic made no sense to me, it actually made me angry, NY drivers are jsut dicks and we like it that way, Chicago...just didnt make sense.
honestly, just invest in some better quality rotors, and prepare to have em changed periodically. I have 19k miles on my 4 year TL and I've changed the rotors twice and have gotten 2 new sets of tires and changed the front twice. yea, it's pricey, but i enjoy driving the TL, and if i'm not a danger on the road to others, to each his own
btw, if it makes you feel any better, according to the trip computer, my MPG is 12/15......and i usually only drive local.....lol -> shrugzzzzzz (i just scrimp on food and play my stocks correctly to compensate )
but yea, just get new rotors, it's not worth brow breaking over this, the stock rotors are good, but not great, and if you're in stop and go traffic like in Chicago, it's even worse. I have to honestly say, Chicago traffic made no sense to me, it actually made me angry, NY drivers are jsut dicks and we like it that way, Chicago...just didnt make sense.
#51
AZ Community Team
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Originally Posted by gauravp123
I find this hilarious and providing no assistance to this thread whatsoever but...
^^^^^^^^^^^^^I'm with above stupid LOL
^^^^^^^^^^^^^I'm with above stupid LOL
So .... uhmm, ..... you didn't notice this comment was 3 1/2 years old?
I find that hilarious and providing no assistance to this thread.
#53
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by KJSmitty
Have you ever seen a rotor on a lathe - or actually perform a rotor turn yourself? I'm not stating this as a focused comment towards you geekybiker, just anyone interested.
Cheers
Cheers
#55
Under your Acura...
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lmao to this thread.. hahaha..
well anyway, ive done multiple new cars with 1000 or less miles on them because of warped rotors caused by the car sitting on the lot for months at a time before they get sold and never drive resulting in buildup or rust and the pad tends to stick to the rotor.. the rust causes uneven wearing and higher braking temperatures, thus resulting in out of true, excessive runout, whatever youd like to call it.
we at acura use on the car brake lathes.. this way the rotor gets cut true to the hub surface..
i really like the, couple hard stops from high speed to "scape" the pad material off..
it would actually result in high speed glazing of the rotor/pad and thus again not true rotor.
i cant believe they keep turning them. at some dealerships.. i always try to get a new set and throw on there along with new pads.
i cannot stand when a customer wants to keep the same pads after a simple rotor turn..ughh. then they come back with rotors warped a few thousand miles later.
cheers
well anyway, ive done multiple new cars with 1000 or less miles on them because of warped rotors caused by the car sitting on the lot for months at a time before they get sold and never drive resulting in buildup or rust and the pad tends to stick to the rotor.. the rust causes uneven wearing and higher braking temperatures, thus resulting in out of true, excessive runout, whatever youd like to call it.
we at acura use on the car brake lathes.. this way the rotor gets cut true to the hub surface..
i really like the, couple hard stops from high speed to "scape" the pad material off..
it would actually result in high speed glazing of the rotor/pad and thus again not true rotor.
i cant believe they keep turning them. at some dealerships.. i always try to get a new set and throw on there along with new pads.
i cannot stand when a customer wants to keep the same pads after a simple rotor turn..ughh. then they come back with rotors warped a few thousand miles later.
cheers
#56
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Originally Posted by Tech7427
lmao to this thread.. hahaha..
well anyway, ive done multiple new cars with 1000 or less miles on them because of warped rotors caused by the car sitting on the lot for months at a time before they get sold and never drive resulting in buildup or rust and the pad tends to stick to the rotor.. the rust causes uneven wearing and higher braking temperatures, thus resulting in out of true, excessive runout, whatever youd like to call it.
we at acura use on the car brake lathes.. this way the rotor gets cut true to the hub surface..
i really like the, couple hard stops from high speed to "scape" the pad material off..
it would actually result in high speed glazing of the rotor/pad and thus again not true rotor.
i cant believe they keep turning them. at some dealerships.. i always try to get a new set and throw on there along with new pads.
i cannot stand when a customer wants to keep the same pads after a simple rotor turn..ughh. then they come back with rotors warped a few thousand miles later.
cheers
well anyway, ive done multiple new cars with 1000 or less miles on them because of warped rotors caused by the car sitting on the lot for months at a time before they get sold and never drive resulting in buildup or rust and the pad tends to stick to the rotor.. the rust causes uneven wearing and higher braking temperatures, thus resulting in out of true, excessive runout, whatever youd like to call it.
we at acura use on the car brake lathes.. this way the rotor gets cut true to the hub surface..
i really like the, couple hard stops from high speed to "scape" the pad material off..
it would actually result in high speed glazing of the rotor/pad and thus again not true rotor.
i cant believe they keep turning them. at some dealerships.. i always try to get a new set and throw on there along with new pads.
i cannot stand when a customer wants to keep the same pads after a simple rotor turn..ughh. then they come back with rotors warped a few thousand miles later.
cheers
#57
WDP Director of R & D
Originally Posted by geekybiker
proceed to cutting (which is just a short term fix if they're really warped) or replacement.
I turned mine at ~14K, TL now has 36K and they have yet to warp again. I also left the OEM pads. Typical rotor "warpage" many times has nothing to do with the break pads. If you have a nice thick piece of flat glass and sandpaper to check the pads, they can be re-used. However, not something I would recommend to Joe-Blow unless he was a competent/knowledgeable tech etc..
Nothing wrong with turning rotors unless the warp and subsequent cut results in less than desired/req thickness.
Cheers
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