jimmyl

I did this with my Mercedes on another forum. I kept a maintenance thread so I could remember what I'd done and when, and usually provide pics for everyone's edification. {especially mine.}

I purchased this TL on 12-17-10, and I've been running on the same fluids that the "Online Used Car Dealer" might have changed, might not have. So a baseline needed to be established.
Oh, and first, a note to self: Hey stupid {which is what I usually call myself}, look, you live in Texas. DON'T buy a car from the rust belt!!!! Moron!
But I digress.......
I found a very good thread today while searching showing a basic simple oil change.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/d-i-y-oil-change-pics-3g-garage-c-004-a-599067/
It isn't that difficult, but I sure appreciated the pics prior to starting. It just helps to see it first.
So of course, up on ramps the car went:




I use this spot next to the garage to do all of my oil changes. If anything bad ever happened, I don't want oil stains all inside the garage. Plus, the ramps always slide on the concrete. My tractor is broken right now though, so it is crowded with it sitting right there.

I have been driving diesel Mercedes for many a year until now, and I'm used to an oil filter housing on top of the engine. The top comes off and you just grab the handle on top of the filter and pull it out.


Believe it or not, I have never in my life done an oil change with a spin on oil filter. So, based on the thread I found and other data, I purchased a Mobile 1 filter, M1-110. The M1-104 was a bit bigger and supposed to work. My mind just can't wrap itself around the idea of a car oil filter the same size as my lawnmower oil filter.

Really? Ok....
So, out with the old oil. I went by the dealer the other day and got some new sealing washers. I should have gotten a new bolt as every last one on this car is rusty. Thanks Ohio!

BTW, what a baby little oil pan!
I removed the spin on filter via the baggy method. Not too terribly messy. I Sharpie'd the mileage on the new filter and on it spun. {98,650}

About as tight as I could get it by hand.
Then went back in with the good stuff.

Since I'm nearing the 110K mile plateau, I went with the 5W30. Still seems thin as water coming from 15W40 and 5W40.
All in all a successful venture, and I appreciated the thread that provided the example.

jimmyl

The thing I really like about this car is the manual transmission.
The thing I really hate about this car is the manual transmission!

And it is all because of the "popping out of 3rd gear" issue. It has made driving this car a real pain in the arse. It would happen at least once a day, and almost always more than that. Other gears also had a "notchy" feel to it when shifting, and it was very perceptible.
You simply can't be around this forum and not have heard about changing the manual tranny fluid for the GM Syncromesh Friction Modified.
I've seen many a post about how it has helped with the shifting, so, what did I have to lose?
So, having just completed an oil change, with car already up on ramps, here I went.
First I removed the cover over the air filter box, then I removed the air filter box. BTW, that should have been easier than it was!
Remember rule one: Before draining the fluid, make sure you are going to be able to add fluid. So, off with the fill plug:





That rusty plug actually loosened fairly easily.
Both the fill plug and the drain plug utilize a 3/8 ratchet or extension instead of an Allen wrench. Very smart and convenient actually.
I removed the under engine/tranny cover. The drain plug was an ugly rusty mess, and it snapped loose with quite a noise! The fluid didn't look just awful, but really, who could tell?



Drain plug was cleaned up as good as I could and reinstalled with a new sealing washer.



Time to go back with the good stuff:



I had a long funnel already which was perfect for the job.



I installed two .946L bottles {32oz/1qt} and then 9 oz from the third for the 2.3L amount called for for fluid changes.

I put the airbox back in, installed the under engine/tranny cover, and it was time for the test drive.



Well, I need to drive it for days/weeks to be sure, but the difference is as astounding as everybody says!!! You can sure enough "feel" the difference when shifting to any gear. It is buttery smooth, just as advertised. Look, I went into this skeptically too, but if you have a manual tranny in one of these, dude bro bro dude, you have to change to this stuff. It really makes a difference you just have to experience.

As an aside, it sure is nice to be under a car that is completely dry! No leaks anywhere. Diesel Mercedes always mark their spot! I love to see a dry engine/tranny! Of course, this car has a hundred or two thousand miles less than they did, so we'll hope that it remains that way.
GM Syncromesh Friction Modified: Use it!!!!

jwr0ng626

iTrader: (1)

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

glad you utilized the forums and decided to switch to the GMSFM.
Best thing i've ever done.

SpiderX1016

I really like that idea of putting the mileage on the filter. I think I'm going to take it for my personal cars. Just in case I forget.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Great job!

I usually write the mileage on the receipt when I buy the oil.

nfnsquared

Another GMSMF convert!

Couple of comments:

1. With an extension and swivel, there's no need to remove anything to get to the fill plug.

2. I've always had my car level when doing the MT fluid drain. Not sure how being up on ramps affects the amount of drained fluid.

jimmyl

I could have gotten it with extensions and a swivel as it turns out, but since the bolts are so rusty/oxidized, I didn't know how tight it would be, and didn't want to break a swivel.
After the tranny quit draining as it sat, I put a jack under the back and jacked it up level. Some more did drain out, but no more than an ounce I don't imagine.
There is just an amazing difference is shifting! I just can't get over it......

stvtec

iTrader: (2)

I'm torn between the GM fluid vs. getting Acura to replace the gearset. The car has under 25k miles on it and is certified, so I shouldn't have to take the "workaround" route. On the other hand, I'm nervous about them R&R my transmission and making something worse.

The debate continues raging in my head. In the meantime, good work.

jimmyl

If it is a warranty situation then I'd certainly have them fix/replace it. We hear stories occasionally where somebody has an issue, but most of the time I'm quite sure they know what they are doing.
You can always do the GMSFM later......

cjTL

iTrader: (2)

Great write-up! Impressive. Looking forward to more posts in this thread.

The rust belt sucks indeed. I've had bolts that were new and seized after a year.

jimmyl

Well, my rather homely looking "new" remote fob arrived today. I purchased it on ebay. It isn't as bad as some but you really can't see the unlock or trunk symbols. Oh well, it is just the backup. I went through the programming procedure with it and my original and I'm happy to report that they both work. Both show "driver two detected" though...... Oh well.
On a less upbeat note, my Mercedes buddy that I traded my 3 diesel Mercedes to to get this car texted me today. The transmission went out on the '95 E300 Diesel today.

Lost all forward gears. Had to backup all the way home.
I feel just awful!!!

jimmyl

It has been interesting trying to learn little things about this car without an owners manual.
I always assumed the microphone didn't work for the in-car bluetooth. Well, yesterday, somehow, I figured out that you have to hit the "phone" button before every time you speak. Well, duh I guess.
So I got my iPhone paired, I got the old numbers deleted, {one listing was "broccoli"!!} Weird.
I got some numbers programmed in, made calls, and everything sounds really good. My spousal unit even had no complaints about how I sounded speaking on it. {small miracle}
But as easy as it would seem, and I feel dumb for this, I can't figure out how to answer a call.
I hit the phone button, the top one, and it answers the call but sends it to either my iPhone or Jawbone, not over the cars speakers.
So, what am I doing wrong? {or not doing right}
I really need to find me an owners manual for this thing......

OSU_Acura_Guy

I usually turn off my Jawbone when I am in the car. I just like HFL too much right now. In any case, if you do leave your jawbone on then when you are in a call you should be able to select which device you want to use on the call. Hope that helps.

jimmyl

Hmmmm. When I call out, my Jawbone is on, but when placing a call via the cars buttons, it uses the cars bluetooth. {iPhone shows both bluetooth devices connected}
So I figured when I answered via the car's telephone button that it would also use the car's bluetooth. If in fact you do use the upper phone button to answer a call, then I guess I will either have to switch via the phone or turn off the Jawbone. {I keep it in shirt pocket, NOT in my ear all the time!!} I'm in and out of car all day, so I'm scared that will wear out the Jawbone "on" button. After my first generation Jawbone, which was awesome, these later models seem far more fragile. Went thru 3 Primes which all failed within a week, and I'm on my second Icon. But I digress......
Is ebay my best route for an owner's manual I guess? Anybody have one they no longer use or have the car for?

nfnsquared

helminc.com. They're not cheap, about $40.

If you register at myacura.com, you'll get access to an online version as well.

jimmyl

Well, I did register at myacura.com, and I have access to the various chapter headings, but when I click on the heading they don't open. I know it isn't rocket science, but you click on something and it either opens or it doesn't......
I've got owner's manuals for 4-5 different Mercedes. Always saved them. Hopefully there will be an Acura person equivalent....

jimmyl

Well, just to add to my timeline, today at 120,030 miles I got 4 Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires. Stock size of course.
My old tires were mismatched left to right, and the Goodyear Eagles on the right were almost slicks!!
After one whole day, I'm pleased with the Conti's. Makes the car much more maneuverable at slow speeds, like parking lots.
Smooth on highway, and I guess balanced out nicely as I have no shimmy's in the steering wheel.
The minor pull to the right I had is gone also.
Time will tell.......

jimmyl

Well, took care of my cold weather power steering whine yesterday.
Honda part #91345-RDA-A01.
It was as easy a fix as you'll ever do:
Cover serpentine belt. Remove 10mm bolt.


Remove old crusty o-ring. (which stayed on neck of hose connection)


Install new orange o-ring, re-position hose, install 10mm bolt and tighten.


Only lost a shade more than a thimble full of power steering fluid. Need to get some more to top off, but it is slightly above "low" mark.
Done......

chay823

These are the next three things that I'm doing to my TL-S. I'm glad you have it all here in one thread. Good job!

jimmyl

A biggee today!!
I had the timing belt service done at 121,500 miles exactly.
Timing belt
Tensioner
Water pump
drive belt
coolant flush
right side engine mount

Total cost was $568 bucks

Fair price for a complete service. Should be good for another 120K miles. At least for this........

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

^^^

Cool. Not a bad price.

I would recommend you follow the MID on the TB service. Why did you wait until 121K?

Falcon1772

I think I had this problem too. Try switching browsers, pretty sure that's what I did and it was either firefox or explorer that worked. I use Chrome as my main browser. And if all else Fails I can email you the service and owners manual.

jimmyl

Time and $$$.
I don't think 15K is much of an extra stretch.......


Yep, it was a Chrome thing. It works fine with Firefox......
Thanks for the post and the offer!

jimmyl

A few maintenance to note here to help my every-ailing memory on down the road......
Several months back I bought a set of Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires. Love the look, love the ride!
A couple of months back I had the front brakes done. (Brembos) Rotors and pads (ceramic). Had them done since my car came from Ohio and there was a high likelyhood of stripping caliper bolts. They got them off, but said it made them work!
A few days ago I had smoke from under the hood and thru the AC vents. High pressure power steering hose!! My Indy said there was a recall for this. Had it towed to Acura where they took care of this recall and the wiper motor recall. Problem is, when doing the wiper motor, some hack tech pried up the lower windshield strip with I guess a screwdriver instead of plastic wedge, and cracked my windshield!!! I take it back in for them to replace that tomorrow. (the tech didn't say a word, I noticed it driving back to Indy shop)
Back at my Indy shop, the replaced rear rotors and pads and resealed the leaking power steering pump.
Now all those awful northern rusty rotors are gone. Going to black-POR15 the rear calipers. Trying to figure out what to do with my Brembos. The clear is peeling.....
And yesterday, installed mud guards.....

JazzoRenee

I have those tires and I've been to lazy to take the care into take care of those recalls. I had dusty pads a set or 2 ago and it can be annoying, anything else I would check out?

Btw, Bianca is an 05 TL.

truonghthe

you can strip the paint and repaint your caliper at color of your choice and you can also buying decal of Acura or Brembo logo. Seem like whoever own that car didn't take a good care for being so much rust for 04 with 144k miles, my Accord is DD in the winter and yet there is no rust bolt any where on the engine bay.

jimmyl

Well, it's been about 58,000 miles since I installed the GM magic elixer, the Synchromesh Friction Modified.
First of all, NOT A SINGLE 3rd gear grind in that entire time!!! Just amazing stuff!!
Even though it was very gradual, it just didn't seem like the shifter was quite as buttery as it had been. So today, out with the old GM stuff, and in with the new.
One thing that threw me for a loop was the new bottle. "AC Delco". They said this was the same stuff, just a different part number and badging.


As always, be sure and loosen the fill plug prior to the drain plug. As mentioned after the last time I did this, you don't have to remove the air cleaner box. Just use a swivel or wobble extension.


The old stuff wasn't as dark as the first fluid change I did.


I don't remember where I got the data, but a drain and refill is 2 qts then 9oz of the third. That is pretty much equal to the amount that I drained.
Just making sure.....

Put the bolt and sealing washer back on and in went the fresh fluid.


Still hard to believe there is such a tangible difference in how smooth the shifter moves with this stuff!! I hope everybody with a manual tranny is utilizing it. So far, my crack research shows you can go at least about 60K miles on this fluid, although I think I'm gonna change mine at about a 50K interval.
That will be at 206,000 miles.....

jimmyl

Not at all happy with my experience with the Continentals!!
Went to Discount Tire yesterday to have a tire repaired that had been losing air slowly. After 36,000 miles my tires are below the wear indicators. 3/32 or something like that. I did notice that I severly hydroplaned last time it rained.
So 36K miles out of a 50K tire. Not that great. And I could NOT have driven on them more conservatively!!!
I use the TL for work, so I'm always focused on fuel mileage. Never ever heavy cornering or God forbid wheel spin!
Just not a very long life out of these tires. They have been fine to drive on during their time. No complaints there. Just a shorter life than I would have hoped. Thanks goodness they wore evenly.
Now for something else.....

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

I'm not crazy about the DWS either. My current A/S are Bridgestone Potenza 960's which have been awesome for the last 33k, but they're starting to get a little weak in heavy rain and light snow. I have the Conti DW summer tire on my Forgestars and they're pretty grippy and very light but after only 8k last year, the fronts are about half worn. Probably get one more season out of the fronts and two more out of the rears. I can't rotate them due to staggered offsets.

As far as the DWS, I fail to understand the hype. I have them on my Subaru Impreza and they were loud and handled pretty poorly from day one. Not fair to compare them across two different cars though. Those have 36k now and will probably go to about 50k.

I guess I'll probably try the Pirelli P Zero A/S on the TL next. It's either those or the Bridgestone 970, but the BS are expensive and heavy and take a toll on mileage. Probably worth it though since the 960's have been probably the best all around tire I've ever owned.

jimmyl

I think I'm gonna try some Yokohamas this next set. Middle of the road price, in the "best" category at Discount. (DWS were "better")
I might could get 5000 more miles out of them, but I hydroplaned so bad the last rain that it would be stupid to chance it. Plus, if I go ahead and buy some more now then I get $170 bucks back via 50K mile warranty on the DWS to go towards the Yoko's.
And the DWS were a loud tire, now that you mention it. Radio had to go up two volume levels in about the last 10K miles. (or I'm going def)

Also got a new battery today. Gold 24F-DLG from Autozone. The other battery was fine, but my tractor battery died. So I put the TL battery(12/09) in the tractor and the new one in the TL.

No other maintenance to report......

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

When it I bought the Bridgestone 960's, it was between those and the Yokohama Advan S4. They were more or less the top two in the all season category on Tire Rack at the time. It was basically a coin toss in the end. Maybe I'll have to consider those again as well. I think they're priced somewhere between the Pirelli P Zero Nero and BS 970.

You've also got me wondering if I should change my transmission fluid again. I switched to the GMSM in '09 at 51k and I'm at 87k now, so 36k on it. Probably hold off another year. Still seems as slick as the day I put the stuff in. Anyone who owns a 6MT and doesn't run the stuff is really missing out.

jimmyl

Had some time this morning, so I stopped by the only place I will buy tires.


I purchased the Yokohama YK580's. Has to be better than the last set!!
They had the car in in pretty short order.


After all was said and done I was sent on my merry way. From a tread standpoint these look like they will handle water better than the DWS's, but it's not like it rains too much here! I just hope they will handle the pavement better than the last set. We will also check the mpg's. I had no complaints there! Still amazed at the mpg's these cars will return.



And for info purposes: