3G TL (2004-2008)
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Mistake getting the Manual???

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Old 03-16-2010, 01:14 PM
  #81  
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Would you say its significantly easier to stall it out, considering you don't have the gradual change in the slave?
Old 03-16-2010, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by GoldnKnight22
Would you say its significantly easier to stall it out, considering you don't have the gradual change in the slave?
My impression is just the opposite. I used to stall every now and then because it was so mushy. Now it's like a manual should be.
Old 03-16-2010, 02:13 PM
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I just bought a TL, not a week ago and I sought out a manual. I gotta say I love it. Everyone of my friends that try to drive it kill it though. They're afraid to give it gas. It's V-6 baby, the engine is thirsty, give it some gas to sip!
Old 03-16-2010, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
Removing the check valve in the slave cylinder will change your impression. I didn't like the way the clutch felt either. Now it's a blast to drive.
I need to read up on this.. is the process reversible? this is my first stick so really I wouldn't know the difference between this and a clutch that would catch sooner. I want the smoothest shifts possible over top performance would you still recommend it.
Old 03-16-2010, 06:39 PM
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I've had my 06 TL 6MT for about a month now and I absolutely LOVE driving it. My commute is only 10 minutes, but I wish it were longer.

The only way I would EVER opt for an auto over a manual is if I had to drive in heavy traffic for more than an hour each day... eh, prolly not even then.

I agree that the 1-2 shift is hard to nail smoothly every time. I've gotten a lot better at it though. But that's why I prefer manual over auto. It requires skill to get it smooth and there's always room for improvement. Autos are BORING.
Old 03-16-2010, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger555
Gotcha! I was reading about an upgraded engine damper that is available that would help with engine movement do you have this upgrade? I had an engine damper on my other car and it was great! I feel while driving around a parking lot for example I have alot of engine movement and jerking while applying gas and letting off at these low speeds in first or 2nd gear. I would be nice to stiffen up this rocking. Any input on this?
Are you talking about engine mounts? I was looking into this as well to stiffen things up a bit but the car is so nice and smooth. I can't specifically speak on poly mounts for the TL but had them on my old car (Dodge Stealth). They made a noticable difference in that the engine didn't feel like it was flopping around and seemed to transfer power to the ground better. There was more vibration at idle though which was kind of enjoyable. I wouldn't expect results to be much different with the TL (dependent on shore/durometer rating - mine were like 85-90).

Back to the MT...the lower gears are more jumpy. Be smoother on the gas pedal and it won't be so jumpy. Throttle modulation is just as important as clutch modulation on a MT.
Old 03-17-2010, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger555
I need to read up on this.. is the process reversible? this is my first stick so really I wouldn't know the difference between this and a clutch that would catch sooner. I want the smoothest shifts possible over top performance would you still recommend it.
As long as you don't mangle the valve it's reversible. A new unit is only around $60.00 or so.

What I experienced with the valve was like riding the clutch after my foot was off the pedal. It was especially apparent when you are really getting on it.
Old 03-17-2010, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger555
I need to read up on this.. is the process reversible? this is my first stick so really I wouldn't know the difference between this and a clutch that would catch sooner. I want the smoothest shifts possible over top performance would you still recommend it.
If your clutch control system is working properly (no slipping and a nice sharp and definitely engagement) and you do not have any plans to race your car and are not real aggressive with it, then this mod is not for you. If the valve is operating as designed and there is nothing adversely affecting your clutch, you will not notice any untoward operation.
Old 03-17-2010, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by KN_TL
As long as you don't mangle the valve it's reversible. A new unit is only around $60.00 or so.

What I experienced with the valve was like riding the clutch after my foot was off the pedal. It was especially apparent when you are really getting on it.
My '04 manual has 73,200 miles on it and it will still break traction up to and including third gear when I get into it and aggressively shift the transmission. I have never altered or removed the delay valve.

However, some people have had problems with their valve and this mod has helped them. If you were to drive my TL, you'd swear that I had done the mod.
Old 03-17-2010, 05:54 PM
  #90  
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this is the engine damper I am talking about

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/xlr8-engine-torque-damper-04-08-tl-manual-764069/
Old 03-17-2010, 06:14 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by MistahSleepy
I live in So Cal and take the 60 Freeway to work everyday so there are times when I'm stuck in a mile or 2 of bumper to bumper traffic.

I also own a 6spd and while the first month or two was really aggravating with the stop and go. After I changed my driving habits a bit it's not too bad. Basically gotta break the bad habit that most AT drivers have of tailgating in traffic and doing the stop-go-stop-go dance. Just stop hugging other driver's rear ends so much and idle forward in 1st if the traffic is really bad. You can do 1st > 2nd shift at 10mph/2k rpm and just cruise at 10 mph in 2nd. I do that a lot for moderate > heavy stop and go traffic. Downside is that aggressive drivers will merge in front of you or cut you off. But I don't really care as I laugh at them wasting their gas and brake pads doing the stop-go-stop-go dance.

Honestly owning a 6spd makes the commute to and from work a lot more fun for me. As long as the traffic isn't bad and I can cruise at 55-60mph. And a clear on/off ramp is just so much fun with a 6spd.

I'm sure it will grow on you, I was frustrated when I first got my car too (TL is first MT car) but as the months passed by and I grew more pro efficient with how my car worked now I can't even imagine driving a AT.
this is a good point. my 2g has enough torque to move in 1st,2nd at idle speed. helps with traffic
Old 03-17-2010, 06:29 PM
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It wasn't a mistake to get manual. Even if you're in traffic everyday.
Old 03-17-2010, 08:16 PM
  #93  
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You guys that have a hard time driving the TL smoothly need to drive my friend's Porsche 951. Aluminum flywheel, large turbo, and a 3 puck clutch with a 1,000,000lb pressure plate lol.

I can usually drive perfectly after only a mile or so but this car makes me look like a beginner.

I spin the tires with a 4,500rpm clutch dump/slip anytime I take off. This is the only car where it's easier to slip the tires than the clutch. Any actual clutch slip chatters like crazy anyway.
Old 03-18-2010, 07:09 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
You guys that have a hard time driving the TL smoothly need to drive my friend's Porsche 951. Aluminum flywheel, large turbo, and a 3 puck clutch with a 1,000,000lb pressure plate lol.

I can usually drive perfectly after only a mile or so but this car makes me look like a beginner.

I spin the tires with a 4,500rpm clutch dump/slip anytime I take off. This is the only car where it's easier to slip the tires than the clutch. Any actual clutch slip chatters like crazy anyway.
Strongest clutch (as in clamping pressure) I have ever tried was in two different cars: a '67 427 L71 (435 Tri-Power) Corvette and a '66 Plymouth Satellite 426 Hemi. Of course, clutch actuation systems in those days used a rod which attached to the top of the pedal and went through the firewall to contact the release fork. So it was very direct. Both of these cars had a pressure plate clamping pressure of around 3600 pounds as I recall. This was about 800 pounds more that my '66 396/360 Chevelle.
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