The MASSIVE problem with a Safelite Windshield Replacement...
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Fearless DIY Guy
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From: Jersey 'Burbs
MINOR differences would still qualify as damn close to OEM, and in the absence of the quantitative differences any argument is a moot point. $600 for a few thousands of sand is not a wise investment.
So, I'm going to respectfully challenge you prove your point in MEASUREABLE, QUANTIFIABLE terms. Anyone familiar with GD&T specifications and general dimensions know that manufacturing permits tolerances. I have found this to be a very constructive thread thus far and would like to keep it going.
So, these are some pretty base values, which should be pretty easy to prove, no?
THICKNESS - I'm not losing sleep if its 0.01mm thinner. What the thickness differences here that we find so offensive?
RADIUS - Off by how many degrees? 0.01?
ACOUSTIC LAYER - Same argument as the first
TINT - If you're familiar with color space and labCIE color values, you can obtain a statistically significant difference with MICROGRAMS of an organic pigment that is only discernible via controlled measurements.
And the most OBVIOUS of all, is, if it was that radically different in dimension, just how is it that all of my OEM parts don't feature any gaps? Detectable audible gain?
Maybe, just maybe, the OEE design engineers aren't idiots and know how to shave a most minimal value to skirt intellectual property infringement.
Thread Starter
Fearless DIY Guy
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,003
Likes: 376
From: Jersey 'Burbs
Christ. It's third party glass. Not an engine. If you genuinely believe aftermarket glass will make your car louder or less nice, you have succumbed to the pressures of marketing. If I ever in my lifetime say, "Wow this OEM glass is much nicer than the Safelite I used to have", please shoot me with a round of rubber bullets, as clearly my senses could use stimulation.
Tried Safelite 2 different times and both ended up being removed for the OEM glass. First, an older RX7 Limited and the rep swore up and down that the glass was the exact same as OEM. Dropped the car off, picked it up later and found tint was different, he said it was the same so I told them to bring in the OEM glass that they still had in the back. He agreed it was different so I had an OEM installed. Second was on a Grand Cherokee, after the install I thought I was on the ocean as the waves were terrible, especially on the sides. Once again had it removed and installed with OEM glass and over the years with any glass I've needed and my recommendation to anyone I know, OEM is the way to go.
I've worked with the manufacturers and believe me, there are OEM glass specs designated, but we don't know what they might be. Same as the OEM tires, there are specific requirements for OEM use, but the same model marketed for aftermarket use, can differ in construction.
They have very specific requirements for every item they order and each company can differ with their requirements for a particular product.
I've worked with the manufacturers and believe me, there are OEM glass specs designated, but we don't know what they might be. Same as the OEM tires, there are specific requirements for OEM use, but the same model marketed for aftermarket use, can differ in construction. They have very specific requirements for every item they order and each company can differ with their requirements for a particular product.
Saflite??? I find to be a great company that does great work and stands by it as well. If it wasn't done right the first time they make sure it is done right the second for free. My insurance uses them as there recommended vendor. Since i have glass protection on two of my cars (jeep liberty and TL) I get new windshields for free. Here in Colorado we have alot of rocks put on the roads during the winter. In the last 3years i have had the jeeps window replaced 3 times (if you dont know jeeps they always crack) and had it replaced under warranty once. 4 times! Safelite was always on time and always did a stand up job. For me it doesnt matter if the glass is the best of the best as long as i can see out of it. In colorado that shit gets so pitted so fast doesnt matter who made it!!! My TL basicly needs a paint job its so chipped up in the front. Either way all my experiences with saflite have been great. They even give you a bottle of glass cleaner for free! just my
Sorry, but I have failed to notice a single difference between the two. My car has a significant portion of sound damping and decoupling, and there is no acoustic difference. The line of sight has not changed. The tint is not discernible.
MINOR differences would still qualify as damn close to OEM, and in the absence of the quantitative differences any argument is a moot point. $600 for a few thousands of sand is not a wise investment.
So, I'm going to respectfully challenge you prove your point in MEASUREABLE, QUANTIFIABLE terms. Anyone familiar with GD&T specifications and general dimensions know that manufacturing permits tolerances. I have found this to be a very constructive thread thus far and would like to keep it going.
So, these are some pretty base values, which should be pretty easy to prove, no?
THICKNESS - I'm not losing sleep if its 0.01mm thinner. What the thickness differences here that we find so offensive?
RADIUS - Off by how many degrees? 0.01?
ACOUSTIC LAYER - Same argument as the first
TINT - If you're familiar with color space and labCIE color values, you can obtain a statistically significant difference with MICROGRAMS of an organic pigment that is only discernible via controlled measurements.
And the most OBVIOUS of all, is, if it was that radically different in dimension, just how is it that all of my OEM parts don't feature any gaps? Detectable audible gain?
Maybe, just maybe, the OEE design engineers aren't idiots and know how to shave a most minimal value to skirt intellectual property infringement.
MINOR differences would still qualify as damn close to OEM, and in the absence of the quantitative differences any argument is a moot point. $600 for a few thousands of sand is not a wise investment.
So, I'm going to respectfully challenge you prove your point in MEASUREABLE, QUANTIFIABLE terms. Anyone familiar with GD&T specifications and general dimensions know that manufacturing permits tolerances. I have found this to be a very constructive thread thus far and would like to keep it going.
So, these are some pretty base values, which should be pretty easy to prove, no?
THICKNESS - I'm not losing sleep if its 0.01mm thinner. What the thickness differences here that we find so offensive?
RADIUS - Off by how many degrees? 0.01?
ACOUSTIC LAYER - Same argument as the first
TINT - If you're familiar with color space and labCIE color values, you can obtain a statistically significant difference with MICROGRAMS of an organic pigment that is only discernible via controlled measurements.
And the most OBVIOUS of all, is, if it was that radically different in dimension, just how is it that all of my OEM parts don't feature any gaps? Detectable audible gain?
Maybe, just maybe, the OEE design engineers aren't idiots and know how to shave a most minimal value to skirt intellectual property infringement.
People forget that getting these chips replaced isn't just a matter of what insurance company you use- it also depends on what state you live in.
For example, I also had to use Safelite to get new glass, back in February, because one chip on the edge of the glass ran all the way across my windshield during a particularly cold day (it was -10).
I researched it out, and I don't regret going with Safelite. Everything was great.
Before I pulled the trigger, though, I spoke to my insurance, and they explained to me that here in the West, there is a LOT more highway driving than what you have out East. Higher speeds, more miles = more windshield damage. Because I live in Utah, they do not cover windshield unless it's over my deductible. Paying it out of pocket was cheaper for me, like it would be for most people.
If you live in the South (South Carolina is an example I know about specifically), state law mandates that insurance companies replace glass and repair chips at no cost as part of an automobile insurance policy. That makes sense- you have less incidents involving glass damage, so they lose less money doing it there for free.
Here, out west, the insurance companies would be broke if they covered it all like that. Almost every car I've ever seen out here has some kind of chip or crack, and people don't get them repaired like they should precisely because it's an extra cost apart from insurance.
For example, I also had to use Safelite to get new glass, back in February, because one chip on the edge of the glass ran all the way across my windshield during a particularly cold day (it was -10).
I researched it out, and I don't regret going with Safelite. Everything was great.
Before I pulled the trigger, though, I spoke to my insurance, and they explained to me that here in the West, there is a LOT more highway driving than what you have out East. Higher speeds, more miles = more windshield damage. Because I live in Utah, they do not cover windshield unless it's over my deductible. Paying it out of pocket was cheaper for me, like it would be for most people.
If you live in the South (South Carolina is an example I know about specifically), state law mandates that insurance companies replace glass and repair chips at no cost as part of an automobile insurance policy. That makes sense- you have less incidents involving glass damage, so they lose less money doing it there for free.
Here, out west, the insurance companies would be broke if they covered it all like that. Almost every car I've ever seen out here has some kind of chip or crack, and people don't get them repaired like they should precisely because it's an extra cost apart from insurance.
no do not live in Colorado but have driven my tsx in that state a few times. My car is loaded with chips but luckily the windshield is still original. Most of the chips came from driving from NC to NJ and back on I-95.
this has been an amusing read I must say.
To each his own in the end.
I had my rear glass replaced recently by safelite after much research and am happy with the whole process. Tech was great and I inspected every step. Very helpful.
It's PPG, I'm fine with that. It works and looks the same.
To each his own in the end.
I had my rear glass replaced recently by safelite after much research and am happy with the whole process. Tech was great and I inspected every step. Very helpful.
It's PPG, I'm fine with that. It works and looks the same.
this has been an amusing read I must say.
To each his own in the end.
I had my rear glass replaced recently by safelite after much research and am happy with the whole process. Tech was great and I inspected every step. Very helpful.
It's PPG, I'm fine with that. It works and looks the same.
To each his own in the end.
I had my rear glass replaced recently by safelite after much research and am happy with the whole process. Tech was great and I inspected every step. Very helpful.
It's PPG, I'm fine with that. It works and looks the same.
Theres some misinformation here but the DOT sets standards and most manufacturers have guidelines on what they need their windows to do. Aftermarket glass is NOT the same as factory glass. The glass may be better or worse, may be optically better or significantly worse. I got an AP TECH windshield that's perfect and exactly like the OEM one. I got a PGW passenger window which SUCKS! There is no UV protection in the glass (transition glasses work while driving on the passenger side unlike all my other cars). I got fed up with it and replaced it with OEM glass at a significant cost plus the price of the shitty PGW glass. In the end I'm happy with the OEM stuff because it was tangibly better. Others may get better glass from PGW or worse. It just depends on what you get.
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