JcHuang563

Not too sure what kind of brake pads are good. the last set that i bought produced way too much brake dust. Any suggestions on some good brake pads for an 05 TL. Are there any brake pads that have do not produce any brake dust or atleast a very minimal amount?


Thanks Guys

01tl4tl

All good brake pads create dust- its a combo of hot pad material gets flung onto the rim and then road dirt and grease get stuck to it.

The best way to deal with it it to remove the wheels and give the rims 3 coats of carnuba or your fave wax- inside and out. That will help as much as can be expected

To answer your question; Hawk Ceramic or HPS are excellent brake pads and are the best trade-off of wheel cleaning versus stopping power
check the Off Topic Sponsored Sales area
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...2&page=1&pp=25
or www.heeltoeauto.com
http://heeltoeauto.com/Acura-TL-2004-UA6-c-2082.html

NOTE the A/T cars use different pads than than the 6sp M/T-

Igor911

I had hawk pads on my 2005 G35 coupe and I thought my stock pads gripped much better. I wasn't that impressed with them as everyone else was saying. Also, they do dust alot as well.

subinf

I put on Rotex pads a few years ago and they work well. Not quite as good as the OEM pads but they do not dust as much and don't squeak. I'm putting on some Hawk pads next week so hopefully I'll have some good things to say about them.

avs007

I actually was quite impressed with the Akebono ProACT Ceramic pads from tirerack... They grip just as good as the stock pads, and dust WAY less the the stock pads.

I was so impressed with them on the TL, I even put them on my other car, which had Hawk HPS pads, which were a pile of crap... Great when warmed up, but absolutely terrible when cold.... The Akebonos don't have that problem.

01tl4tl

The HAWK pads are great - they do need to be properly bedded to the rotor for max efficiency - many technical reasons- but most noise or low grip complaints can be solved with a high speed rebed

avs007

I know all about how to bed pads... I still think the Hawk pads suck for cold initial bite... After the first couple stops, the bite is great... However, after they cool on the freeway, they suck again for the first stop or two.

High speed rebed probably just makes it look like it solves the problem, because you heat up the brakes pretty good, so the pads seem like they grip great after they cool a bit... But after they thoroghly cool, they'll suck again for the next stop or two. (Of course, this is just my experience with them, so YMMV...)

Silver Bullet

EBC Red Stuff!! I have them all around. They are ~$165 for the fronts and ~$65 for the rears. They are cereamic pads designed for "spirited" street performance. I found them to be excellant and they grip like thet are rubber. Still get brake dust front and rear but I HIGHLY recommend them. You can buy them through Oreilly's, through their performace shop. Just do a search on EBC Red Stuff and then they have a list of recommended outlets to buy them and they also have their product sheet to get the right ones for the TL.

01tl4tl

Proper pad bedding superheats the pads and rotors which causes a transfer layer of pad material to the rotor surface. Then a cooling down drive to let everything bond. Driving gently for 500 miles is not bedding the pads!!
If done properly it gives more grip and longer parts life because pressing similar materials together.
Rebedding can rid the brakes of glazing, hot spots and general dragging them too long and too lightly- like in traffic

My hawks stop the car with ease from the first stop sign on the corner to dodging the idiot panic braker ahead on the freeway

I dont know your method so your brakes may vary

avs007

I followed the bedding directions that came with my stoptech rotors. 6-10 stops from about 40mph to 5 mph (specifically said to not come to a complete stop). 30 second cooling time between stops... Then after the set of 10, allow brakes to cool in motion for 2 minutes... Then repeat the 10 stops one more time.

I did that with all cars everytime I replace the rotors or brakes. The only pads I had this problem were the Hawk pads.

01tl4tl

Thats not the Stoptech method at all based on their website info

No surprise you had problems with hawks

Proper bedding does not say to let cool 30 seconds between braking- its supposed to be one right after the other to heat and maintain the heat in the rotors and pads, then the last few harder slow downs transfer the material to the rotor- then cool off drive= then they are ready
to each his own- this is like the ~whats the best oil thread~ any of the top names are fine

baby_igor

I will also add my vote for Akebono ACT. I did not put them on my TL, as the OEM's are still at 50% wear at 48K miles. I did put them on my wife's Suburban, and they grip as good or better than Chevy OEM, with less dust and no squeaks.

01tl4tl

It is helpful to the OP if only people using the pads on their TL respond- anything else doesnt matter- different company, different rotors, different results

so in general- any of the above listed pads will work for the TL
Low brake dust or great brakes- well my wife brought the last car home 2 feet shorter,
so now I wash the rims once a week when I wash the car- and it stops amazing!!!

avs007

Other than the 30 second part, it's exactly what it says on their website. On the directions that came with the rotors, it included the 30 second bit in there. Tho I think it said something to the effect of not letting the brakes cool longer than 30 seconds between stops. Besides, this is all from memory, as I installed those things several years ago, so it's not like it read exactly as how I typed it above. For example, I think I left out the part where it said the brake pressure should be sufficent that it takes about 2 seconds to slow to 5mph.

But either way, it's irrelevant, as because the road I was doing it on, I didn't have the luxury of waiting 30 seconds between stops, so I pretty much did them back to back.

Besides, I've heard of improperly bedded brakes resulting in lots of noise and reduced all around performance, but I've never heard about it resulting in only decreased initial bite. Typically I hear that is mostly dependend on the pad material, and it's temperature range.

94eg!

I not 100% sure, but I think 01tl4tl recommends Hawk pads so much because he sells them. This can severely bias a persons opinions. He is just as adamant about Racing Brake 2-piece rotors, yet there is no info to back up his passionate opinions on those either.

Hawk are good pads, but there are still people with complaints. These problems might not even be the pads, but simply not replacing things like shims during the pad swap. Or even as simple as using the incorrect grease to back the pads (or none at all). There are too many variables to be sure without personal experience with the particular. If you don't want to risk it, then just buy new OEM pads and continue to wash your wheels. If it's a 6MT, make sure to get the re-shaped 07 TL-S pads that help reduce noise...

01tl4tl

If you do your internet research you will learn the many things I did about RacingBrake and Hawk- superior technology and manafacturing process

Add to that, 30+ years wrenching on cars and race cars, motorcycles and airplanes- and trying every brand of brakes known to man-- I know of which I speak

I dont sell anything car related- just meditation books and tapes- do you want to stop smoking?
sorry you have made an ASSumption about things- contrary to popular belief, I dont get royalties from Seafoam nor am I actually MrHeelToe

I do refer people to MrHeelToe because he has always taken good care of me and provided excellent parts at reasonable prices
Also its the RB 1 piece rotors I dig for the TL- the 2 piece is for super-bling or hardcore autocross racers AND gen3 6MT Brembo owners who want to use all the brakes the caliper will deliever

Knowledge gives one bias- based on fact and current conditions- installed 7 years ago doesnt count anymore

here is what I found from Stoptech-

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
StopTech's Recommended Procedure for Bedding-in Stock-Sized Brake Systems
by Matt Weiss of StopTech and James Walker, Jr. of scR motorsports

When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are ‘cooked' out of the pad.

The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.

The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are ‘cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.

The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.

Bedding-in Street Performance Pads
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

01tl4tl

A main cause of noise with Hawks, is failure to either resurface the rotors or remove and clean with 130 grit sandpaper then soap and water wash
Any old pad residue will interfere with the hawks compound and cause noise

avs007

My rotors also came with a pamphlet that also recommended cleaning the braking surface of the new rotors with brake cleaner, and to avoid getting fingerprints on it during installation...

Some pads don't come with shims... I've noticed some people fail to take the shims off the factory pads and move them to the new pads.

94eg!

Your supposed to replace pad shims with new ones whenever you replace the pads. That is the reason new OEM pads come with new shims.

Bearcat94

I know it's not your wording, but figure you know what they mean.


Can you clarify the bolded part above.




I assume partial braking #2 (and #3 if done) are a repeat of the procedure in the begining.

94eg!

The first series of 10 stops should be medium braking pressure from about 60mph down to 5 or 10mph without actually coming to a complete stop to initially warm up the brakes. He is saying that you should not stop the car completely with the brakes applied because it will cause the rotors to cool unevenly where the pads are pressed against them. It will also leave an uneven deposit of pad material on the rotors surface which is the typical cause of "warped" rotors. This effectively ruins everything your trying to accomplish.


Correct! The only difference is that #2 and optional #3 should be performed with heavy braking pressure to really heat up the brakes.

01tl4tl

www.racingbrake.com
http://heeltoeauto.com/httech/YaBB.pl?num=1184261899

This is from the heeltoeauto.com tech forum

Brake Pad Bed-in Procedure, recommended by Heeltoe
07/12/07
First it is important to know what pads you have, and what they are capable of.
Heeltoe Automotive recommends Hawk Racing pads. Find out more about the differences in pads under product descriptions on Heeltoeauto.com Brake Pad Selection Page


The following bed-in procedure is drawn from our personal experience in breaking in pads, and from technical information gathered from the RacingBrake Website.

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against. Even though those performance street pads have been burnished at the factory, a transfer film must be generated at the pad and rotor interface for optimal performance. Whether it is new or used rotors, you must follow the bed-in steps listed below to maximize brake performance.

STREET PADS, example Hawk HPS, Ceramic, and HP+


After installing new brake pads, confirm pedal pressure before driving car.
On an open road with no traffic, make 6-10 heavy slow-downs, NOT complete stops, from 30-10 mph then fast accelleration and repeat with increasing pedal effort/brake effort each time until just shy of ABS activation. The idea is to heat and maintain that heat in the pads and rotors during the procedure.

On an open road with no traffic, make an additional 2 to 3 hard slows from approximately 45 mph to 5 mph applying firm pressure. Do not drag brakes or come to a complete stop. Engagement of ABS or threshold braking is not required.
Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down by cruising at normal speeds.

Do not sand or grind the brake pads or rotors after this burnishing procedure has been completed. Your performance street pads are now ready for driving! I generally recommend to drive the car normally from here on out. I do not recommend using the brakes as a way to slow the car down, but rather use them as a way to CHANGE SPEEDS to a lower one. Keeping this thought in mind while braking will prevent you from making long gradual stops that raise brake temperatures above the desired level for street pads. When street pads get too hot, they can glaze the rotor surface or put inconsistent pads deposits on the rotor which will cause a shimmy.

Also, be aware that Racingbrake rotors have a special metallurgy that may require up to 500 street miles before break-in is achieved. You will need to get these rotors HOT!

Lastly, do your best not to engage the ABS system within at least 300-500 miles of bed-in. If a shimmy should develop, one should reapply the bed-in procedure listed above.

Pat04TL

Raybestos "Quiet-Stop" (read ceramic) pads on the front. Little dust and no squeaks, although they don't stop quite as fast as the OEMs.

chas22

You won't go wrong if you get the factory stock pads!

KOIBOY

I too am looking for new pads. But like the above poster suggested I have decided to stick with an factory setup.

In lie of starting a new thread can anyone verify that part number 45022-SEP-A60 will fit an 05MT? If so, do i only need a qty of 1? If not what is the correct part number? Does it include the Brembo grease or other antisqueak? I pulled this info from a link on another thread: Here

Also, can anyone verify if 43022-SEP-A00 is the correct part number for the rear brake pads? Same questions as above: Quantity to order? all necessary pieces included? If not what is the correct part number for OEM rear brake pads?

Other threads have mentioned cleaning the rotors with 130 grits sandpaper and then soap and water. Anymore specific instructions re: this step? What exactly am I looking to accomplish and how will I know that I have done it? I have noticed other intrepid souls who did their own brakes often did not mention this step. Is it necessary?

OP, sorry for hijacking your thread. I just didn't want to start another thread about the same old topic that has been addressed numerous times.
--hope all of the above makes sense as I am delirious right now, thanks in advance!

94eg!

Confirmed. I have them on my 05 6MT.

You only need a quantity of 1. They are sold in axle sets (4 pads).

Void...

No. TSB 04-019 says to ONLY use the brembo brake grease #08798-9027 for the newly redesigned pads. That means no Molykote M77. I priced the copper colored Brembo grease at my local dealership, and they wanted $35 for the tube that does 3 sets of front brakes...

Confirmed (#9 in pic below). Order quantity 1. Comes with all replacement shims, and Molykote M77 for the backs of the pads.

I would just have the rotors turned by a professional. Just make sure they are nice & smooth, once they are done. You shouldn't be able to catch your fingernail on the freshly cut surface. Some people feel that sanding is a good idea to get the final finish. Just make sure to use a sanding block if you do it (not necessary in my opinion).

PS: It's also important to replace all caliper spring hardware on both front & rear calipers (#11 & #13). And don't forget to clean & re-lube the rear calipers guide pins (#12 & #14). Just make sure to do each pin one at a time and reinstall them because it's very important NOT to mix them up.



You ask a lot of questions...

KOIBOY

Thank you for such a detailed and thorough response!
I added the clips to my order plans.
Now all I gotta do is get the proper grease for the brembos and the other grease for the pins and I should be good.
I ask a lot of questions bc I want to do it right, one time.
thanks again!