led reverse lights
11-23-2009, 11:57 PM
#41
TL
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rockland County, NY
Age: 40
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Hah! have fun with that. I'd rather get punched in the face than do it again. It definitely was not designed to be removed easily. The issue lies in the fact that the clip that holds it in sits above the metal trim piece that the assembly slides into on the headliner and makes it nearly impossible to unlatch. I would almost suggest pulling down on the light and sliding a very thin screwdriver between the metal trim and the headliner itself while pulling down on the plastic lens. It took me quite a bit of time to get it out in my car and I hope to never have to do it again!
11-24-2009, 04:14 AM
#44
KBPftmfw
11-24-2009, 08:50 AM
#47
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
11-24-2009, 11:01 PM
#48
Hmmm...a relay, huh? And it's one relay for both, obviously...but the actual bulbs...the H3's...they are wedge bulbs too like the stock harness? Or is there cutting involved? Just curious....
I think I have a relay leftover from my accord fog install. That would rock.
Is there a DIY for this?
I think I have a relay leftover from my accord fog install. That would rock.
Is there a DIY for this?
11-24-2009, 11:45 PM
#49
KBPftmfw
^ Lol at a DIY, dude, I've asked 2 or 3 times in this thread and it's like a giant fucking secret or something. All people need is a general outline of how to do it but you would think we're asking for hand-holding service here.
Personally, I don't need a switch to turn it on at will. I just want it to come on when I shift to reverse. So get 2 HID kits from DDM Tuning and 2 pulse timer delays and you're good to go, right everyone?
Personally, I don't need a switch to turn it on at will. I just want it to come on when I shift to reverse. So get 2 HID kits from DDM Tuning and 2 pulse timer delays and you're good to go, right everyone?
11-25-2009, 09:01 AM
#50
Actually, I have a manual...so technically I COULD still be a reverse prick and get people that are tailgating anyway...and I don't need the delay.
I personally would just like to know if they had to modify the socket for the bulb cause I doubt the H3 bulb will be a wedge style. 1 HID kit will have 2 sets of bulbs and ballasts so I could do this mod for $29 bucks from ddmtuning. And is the relay just for safety sake...I mean, as long as it's fused and kicks on with the 12volt signal I don't see a need. Maybe I'm wrong?
C'mon someone with this mod...give us ignoramus' some direction!
I personally would just like to know if they had to modify the socket for the bulb cause I doubt the H3 bulb will be a wedge style. 1 HID kit will have 2 sets of bulbs and ballasts so I could do this mod for $29 bucks from ddmtuning. And is the relay just for safety sake...I mean, as long as it's fused and kicks on with the 12volt signal I don't see a need. Maybe I'm wrong?
C'mon someone with this mod...give us ignoramus' some direction!
11-25-2009, 11:53 AM
#51
Drifting
iTrader: (13)
You do NOT use the OEM sockets at all. The H3 bulbs are not a perfect fit. One guy says you need to tack it into place using "JB Weld" epoxy. Make sure you just tack it, though. You want to be able to access the bulbs, if needed.
Relay is NOT needed with a manual tranny, but be careful about how you engage reverse. The relay prevents the momentary activation of the lights while switching from Park to Drive--quick activations like that are not good for HIDs.
You only need ONE relay and One HID kit in H3 size. Most people recommend the Super-Slim ballasts, but I think something like DDMTuning's Raptor kit would work well for this application. Stick with a 35W kit. You will also need an HID wiring harness and a dedicated power feed to the trunk. Use an Amp wiring kit, 8-10gauge (lower if you want to add sound equipment later). You could get all fancy here with distribution blocks, etc, but those are the basics.
I am still researching the tailgater switch, but basic requirements for this are a backup camera system, Dom's or NavTool unit and a 3 position momentary switch. The switch will have an OFF (OEM display), ON (secondary video feed) and MOMENTARY (activates backup camera and lights for as long as you hold the switch). I am still unsure as to exact wiring of this switch (does it require a 2nd relay?) and would appreciate any thoughts or experiences anyone may have.
Disclaimer: I have not yet done this mod. All of the above are the results of my research into it.
Hope this helps!
Relay is NOT needed with a manual tranny, but be careful about how you engage reverse. The relay prevents the momentary activation of the lights while switching from Park to Drive--quick activations like that are not good for HIDs.
You only need ONE relay and One HID kit in H3 size. Most people recommend the Super-Slim ballasts, but I think something like DDMTuning's Raptor kit would work well for this application. Stick with a 35W kit. You will also need an HID wiring harness and a dedicated power feed to the trunk. Use an Amp wiring kit, 8-10gauge (lower if you want to add sound equipment later). You could get all fancy here with distribution blocks, etc, but those are the basics.
I am still researching the tailgater switch, but basic requirements for this are a backup camera system, Dom's or NavTool unit and a 3 position momentary switch. The switch will have an OFF (OEM display), ON (secondary video feed) and MOMENTARY (activates backup camera and lights for as long as you hold the switch). I am still unsure as to exact wiring of this switch (does it require a 2nd relay?) and would appreciate any thoughts or experiences anyone may have.
Disclaimer: I have not yet done this mod. All of the above are the results of my research into it.
Hope this helps!
Last edited by dwb993; 11-25-2009 at 11:57 AM.
11-25-2009, 11:37 PM
#52
Awesome job...Yes, very helpful, thank you for taking the time. Hmmm...So I have a system...so I have power in the trunk as it is...not too hard to tap into a dist. block there...JB weld. I could live with. Wiring harness for the HID...I'm guessing this is something you could make yourself to fit into the stock H3 plug from the factory wedge hot and ground.
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