TlHeadache

So I have a single mass flywheel and clutch kit I got from spec on my tl for about a year. Notice a rythmic mini knocking noise in first gear for a while when accelerating. No noise in neutral. Did a pull and it turned into a knocking noise that can be heard in neutral but the second I push the clutch in the noise goes away. I rebuilt tranny with a new second gear(was missing a tooth) and bearings all around. Start car still same noise. Pulled again. Pilot bearing has in and out play and makes a tapping noise if I play with it. Any ideas?

BROlando

If you used aftermarket pilot/release bearings, I wouldn't doubt they've gone bad already. Use the OEM bearing, preferably the one you buy from a dealership.

Did the trans go in smoothly last time, or did you do some wrestling, which may have damaged the pilot bearing?

Was the flywheel loose when you removed it this time? Did you torque it properly when you installed it last time?

If everything else in the clutch case seems ok, then maybe the knocking is an engine issue. How does the engine oil look? Any glitter in it from a bad thrust or crank bearing?

If you used a performance clutch with higher clamping load, you should also use a clutch bypass switch to start the car - and make sure you don't depress the pedal for any longer than absolutely needed. Like...don't sit at lights with the pedal pushed, etc. This way, you lower the chances of ruining the crank bearings.

TlHeadache

Everything was torqued in sequence and to spec with a torque wrench. I didn’t notice any shavings. When I installed the trans I don’t recall if it was a pain to mate to the engine or not but I have a new pilot bearing on the way. Never been one to ride the clutch either. I have my car tuned with ktuner and was looking at knock counts which don’t increase under load or anything like that. Could an engine knock subside when clutch is pushed in?

BROlando

Rod knock or thrust bearing failures usually get louder when the pedal is pushed. But...weird instances may cause the opposite. If your engine oil doesn't have metal fragments in it, though, then it's probably not rod knock or crank walk you're hearing.

Hopefully you purchased a new pilot and throw out bearing from a Honda/Acura dealer this time around? Or at least you purchased the same brand as the factory parts are?

A pilot bearing or input shaft bearing issue makes sense in this case. Pushing in the clutch will cause the input shaft to stop turning.

But check all the other components for signs of wear or issue.

Still a good idea to do a clutch bypass switch to start the car, if you're using a clutch with a higher clamp load than stock. This is a switch that allows you to start the car without pushing the clutch. Its absolutely necessary for a clutch that uses higher clamp pressure.

TlHeadache

Thank you for your help. Will keep this updated. I pull the oil filter housing when I pull the engine and tranny for clearance and didn’t see any metal when I dumped it so hopefully it’s just an obnoxious pilot. Throw out bearing seems smooth still. Will look into a clutch bypass switch.

TlHeadache

As far as I can tell the pilot was fine and supposed to sandwich against the back of the flywheel and the crank but, it can move back and forth just a little. Rotating the input shaft of trans I can hear clunking Pulled trans apart again and unless it’s inside of the diff I can’t see anything wrong. About to just set it all on fire.

TlHeadache

Quiet.TL

i know this thread is a year old but did you ever figure out what it was, i’m having the exact same issue currently.