Edit knock or two from left wheel area, driver side.
Like last three weeks when go from stop to driving at stop light I hear one knock or two when start drive from left wheel area. I'm in MN and it is cold. It was warmer Sunday and Monday but I was sick at Sunday, fewer, and in morning Monday. Afternoon felt better and went to gym and after gym checked left wheel 3-9 12-6, than take wheel off checked lower ball joint whit pry bar and checked other joints and cv axle. All look good. Will wait for problem to go bigger to figure out what is going on.
Used Acura at Thursday because project was far away and tools was there already. It was 27 miles away from my apartment. When in morning I just come close to front of project house my right wheel fell of. It wasn't left wheel noise, it was from right wheel lower ball joint. All noise was clicking one or two times when start drive. I guess metal transferred it so that I though it was from left wheel. How much I sow beside lower ball joint cv axle is gone too. Sited in car calling tow truck and car mechanics and general contractor was screaming at me to come in finish framing basement AC guys are waiting for me. Women come out and said I block here parkin exit too.
Called one tow truck to come hock my car and transfer it to a service 7 miles away looked for 280$. Found car service too that will do estimate. Called another tow truck and it towed my car to service 7 miles away for 208$. It was Thursday. Friday morning service call me say lower ball joint, cv axle and speed sensor need work. Guess how much? At Thursday I was thinking 300 would be good, 500 about right and I would pay up to 700$. Answer is in next comment.

 

Car service look for 1700$, again in letters one thousand seven hundred $ for lower ball joint, drive axle and speed sensor. I said do not touch it. Paid 120$ for estimate. Hope to pickup car at Tuesday from that place and transfer it to my apartment that is 25 miles away. Hope to fix that alone in my parking lot when get warmer. Joined AAA and hope to get towing for free albeit paid membership 120$ for one year. Down is car at service. See how they lift that wheel area. I guess owner of service is multimillionaire. Go now there to get gym bag and some other stuff and do some photos of bottom of car. Any way check both wheels kids. Will bring cv axle and other what need from U pull just to learn there how to do. Lower ball joint will bring from part store. I'm at head so far 400$.

 

Will be cold till Friday. At Friday will be 47 and probably use it for going to U pull if job allow. At next Saturday will be again very cold so will not be capable work at car. When I posted at CL at Friday for towing from fancy car service to my apartment, it was before I join AAA this morning, 3 guys offer me to come at change lower ball joint and drive shaft at place for 300$ and other one said 650$ on place. Place is now that service center. Albeit parking is open it do not go. And plus tomorrow will be only 17F highest temperature. Will keep a few phone numbers of this field mechanics. At last managed to move car from front of women parking exit in some reasonable time and to frame walls for hvac guy. To much entertainment in this life for my taste.

 

Where would be how to replace lower ball joint. I can not find it in "suspension" part of Service manual 3th g..

 

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Page 18-11

 

Still can not believe that didn't check right wheel. As I'm getting older it seem that I'm losing capability to figure out where direction of noise come from.

 

^happens to even the best of us; glad that you are able to get it fixed. Just beware that sometimes the lower ball joint pulls the sleeve out of the control arm, if that happens you can "try" to put it back in place but it is NOT RECOMMENDED and you need to buy a new control arm.

 

Is it axle for Base and Type-s same? AI at google say "mostly not". Someone is selling an axle from type s 07 at facebook. At store axles cost 160$.
Found some older thread at Acurazine that said type s and base automatic has same passanger axle shaft.

 

Look up the passenger side 07 Base driveshaft, on the link below, and check the 'vehicle fitment' area for confirmation.
Genuine OEM Acura Parts and Accessories Online - Acura Parts Warehouse

 

Edit for above ask for passenger side.

 

At Walmart page it is said same axle for base and type-s. Why car parts stores are hiding about it is not clear.

 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Front-Rig...erId=101092822

Btw where cv axle is in parts store 160$ Walmart is selling it for 60$

 

cheap axles might wear out much faster so stick with a reputable brand for safety. IMO autozone should have some locally. You don't want to replace it and the ball joint and end up with a wobble/vibration on acceleration.

According to rock auto 3.5 and 3.2L TL's use the same passenger side axle.

 

At internet they sell right axle for 04-08 but rock auto keep 04-06 separate from 07-08. Are they same or not. Or maybe they were different when built back than and different at junkyards but today they build right axle that fit from 04-08?
https://www.partsgeek.com/2p3j5xz-ac...YaAvQzEALw_wcB

 

Still do not work. Because tow truck was late I had to park at place in front of snow and snow is melting and puddle is there. I parked exactly where is biggest puddle in entire parking form melting snow.

 

Thanks for sharing, we were at the edge of our seats awaiting the final conclusion to this thriller

 

Finally someone is concerned about me in this life.

 

 

At Sunday was 60F after long time so was out try to pull out CV axle from intermediate shaft, rest of it with chain over but didn't work. Sunday 8 days go it was around freezing so water under car was frozen and I was slamming axle as is recommended in manual but wasn't capable to do hence used chain but it didn't work.

Problem with chain is IMO even I hit pry bar with sledge hammer chain has some play in it. It is better hit inner joint of cv axle with some chisel as is recommended by service manual, if is space for it.

 

So I called mobile mechanic for Monday. Guy show up. I was expecting will come with van. He come with small car and had tools, but not say C clamp for lower ball joint etc. Good luck I had it. So he laid down slamming cv axle with chisel and I was pulling chain, I didn't remove it from Sunday. CV axle give up. It was Monday and was necessary to finish it that day as Tuesday, today is cold again. We finished all in 3,5 hours. Ball joint snapped at castle nut. That mark of hitting visible on sleeve is from sledge hammer I used to kick out old ball joint. There wasn't any noise from that ball joint whatsoever. I say it because when I'm beck on road I have same 2 klick when start driving from stop or when stopping sharper than usually. Man charged me 160$. Different than 1700$ that shop wanted. A shop near me, when I brought car to my parking asked for 350$ for lbj and cv axle but car should be brought at exact tame and put in shop, they didn't want theirs lift wait for my car. I think all is good, car is driving smooth. I brought Cv axle from junkyard for 40$ and lbj from O'Reilly for 40$ too. One shop, another than that 350$ one counted 200$ for axle and 100$ for lbj. Must be covered in gold but I need not gold at bottom of car. How much I know blondes do not go look under cars.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2...ra-tl-1010717/

Nr 9 maybe it is source of problem. I slammed big time with sledge hammer knuckle of that ball joint that cracked 3 weeks ago. It just give up 6 moths after slamming. I didn't have any warning that lbj was to crack. No noise, no wobbly steering, nothing. That noise that I talk about in nr 1 from left wheel is still there.

 

So what I should check next about that knock or two from left side area of wheel when I start driving or when breaking sharper than usual? Checked lbj again yesterday and it is still solid. Checked 3-9 and 6-12 at wheel and all solid. It is knocking it is not grinding. Eric the car guy say it is important what kind of noise is it.

 

I had a small knock on my left side. I assumed it was the ball joint but it was actually the wheel bearing. Knocking sound can be ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearing and sway bar end links.

First time I see someone try using a chain to get that axle out. I was hoping it would work for you.

 

I think now it can be rear bushing at lower control arm is collapsed and do touch its housing metal to metal. Will do photo of it when will be warmer. Past year I changed front bushings but didn't change rear at both lower control arms. If will be so will be touching till I have to change again front bushings. Would not pull lower control arm out for it.

 

Many videos at youtube about it.

 

Another photo of broken lower ball joint. It broke at threaded part of lower ball joint stud. And it broke exactly at bottom of sleeve ant that mean castle nut was tight. That meant too that even if I would check it when I did check left wheel I would not find any play. I googled little about it and didn't see anyone that had ball joint broke at that place. Only one terrain car ""Anyone else ever had this happen? Ball joint snapped at the threads."". No any another complain about such brake at entire google. You can see that rubber is intact.

 

Nope but living up north with all that rust crazy things happen. I always used some type of pry bar to get that axle out.

 

This is where my car was parked. Above one give me 2 warm days to fix thing. There was mud Sunday and Monday but not water. Big pool of water is there again today after snow past night. If would not fix at Monday would not fix for weeks. Of course I had to fix passenger side lbj and cv axle.


From some reason no knock from left wheel today so far. Maybe because of colder weather moving in.

 

So when we know it that ball joint can rust at stud and snap from rust should it be build in stainless steel. If this happen to someone at highway his life and others around him is in danger.
This lbj cracking happened 2nd time in my life. First one was in 2004 but there was tons of noise from it and warning for a few months. This one didn't give single sound.

 

Do some thinking. If would have triple A before it, I have it now, it would cost me none to tow car to my parking lot. Say I was capable to kick out cv joint alone than all fixing would cost me 80$ for ball joint and CV axle. Even with mobile mechanic it would be only 230$ that is acceptable.
If would go towing for 208$ to Tr Auto Care Whit Bear Lake that I did and made estimate for 120$ and than do fixing for 1700$ it would cost me over 2k to fix it. And it is basically some basic fixing. Guy from Tr did call me in 7am in morning next day after towing and say they are ready to start fixing right away if I agree on price.
Other one is stellar. I said to guy do not do it car has 368k miles it do not worth that many. His answer is but car can go many miles more. So in his phantasy world he is living he tough I will send to junkyard a perfectly good driving car. Beside all forums, mobile mechanics, service manuals, videos. Lol.

 

AI Overview
Suspension corrosion protection involves applying undercoating sprays, wax oils, or specialized coatings to prevent rust from salt, moisture, and road debris. Top products include wool wax-based coatings like Fluid Film, Surface Shield, and ACF-50, which can be applied to new or existing parts to create a protective, self-healing barrier.
Recommended Products
Fluid Film (Black/Clear): Long-lasting, lanolin-based spray that resists water wash-off.
Surface Shield: Easy-to-apply aerosol for protecting and removing surface rust.
Rust Shield: A curing, oil-based, hydrophobic coating.
Cosmoline: A heavy-duty, waxy, long-term coating.

I use Cosmoline and FF at undercarriage of my pickup already for years. Will just expand Cosmoline on suspension parts. Do not do much of that so far because I don't want to spray cosmo at brake disc. Will from now on put plastic bag at discs and spray cosmo on suspension. Especially evidently at ball joint studs. Do not agree with AI guy about ff in wheel area as it can wash of easily from there.

 

It is not sense that lbj stud broke from rust on me guy at forefront of rust fighting. Here is my big tread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-compound.html .
I sleep with a can of Cosmoline under my pillow https://www.crcindustries.com/heavy-...itor-10-wt-oz/ .

 

Those cv axle from junkyard do not make any vibrations. It is smooth as it get. I did read about problem with aftermarket axles vibrating.
My line of thinking about rusty ball joint studs. Every ball joint that I did replace need not any more treatment against rust as I put anti seize at bolts whenever I bolt something.
""""AI OverviewYes, anti-seize compound effectively prevents rust and corrosion from developing under nuts""""
But if is some ball joint that I didn't replace I will first spray Fluid Film between nut and stud of ball joint. Leave it so for 3 month, than do again. After next 3 months will clean overspray and spray Cosmoline over entire stud-nut.
Fluid Film is from my experience surprisingly resistant when sprayed inside some mechanism. Read somewhere that some lock manufacturer advise spraying theirs lock with FF against seizure from rust. Did so at a padlock just once a few years go. That padlock is exposed to elements all time as is on storage space. No any seizure of it after that.

 

^ it could be due to corrosion from different metals on the sleeve vs the ball joint, or possible from a stress point that started with a large impact.

The OEM style axles tend to trap water under the rubber damper that's in the middle of the axle and it literally gets thinner and thinner till it snaps one day and you can't get the car to stay in park and hear a racket when you drive to move in D/R. Lots of threads on this happening on the accords and TL's of this vintage.

 

I found at passanger side lower sway bar link nut fell off. I put new one 12M - 1.25 and now car do not have knocking noise when breaking. I still do not think it is why lower ball joint at right side break as AI say same. Noise was only a few weeks before LBJ break.
But I still have noise when start drive car. When I do turning of tie end rod with hand I can turn that easy so that metal part of tie end rod hit lower control arm. It happen at both side and when I turn tie end rod toward front of car. It turn easy toward back of car too but do not hit lower control arm. Do it mean that I need to replace both tie end rod. 3-9 test on wheels do not show play and up down movement is not existent when hold tie end rod. Only it spin easy. Like in 1:40 of video. Will go to u-pull and see if I can rotate tie end rod so easy there.

 

A couple stupid statemen from me above. Tie end rod is attached to knuckle not to lower control arm. Second I was at you pull and 3 tie end rod that I checked do same. Some knocking when I turn them but not from hitting knuckle housing of tie end rod then from hitting tie end rod itself housing. One of tri tie end rod was detached from knuckle housing and I was capable to reproduce same sound from ball joint by spinning ball joint stud. Only one of 4 didn't rotate and that one looked oldest of all 4. 2 tie ends are from TL 2006 and two from tl 2008. I will just ignore that two knocks when start to drive for a while. As I said no more knock when breaking as I put nut at detached sway bar link stud.
So that statement in video above at 1:40 is wrong I guess? Like if it rotate and you hear knock it is not good, that is wrong?


AI OverviewYes,
tie rod end ball joints are designed to rotate and pivot freely to accommodate steering and suspension movement. While they should move easily, they should not have any vertical or horizontal "play" (looseness/slop) in the socket. If they are worn, they will feel loose up-and-down or "clunk".

Look like CrisFix is wrong and almost send me at path of parts canon.

 

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdv...s_supposed_to/

Same rotations in that video like at my car and others that I checked and everyone say it is normal.

 

Still dill with knocking sound when start drive. One or two knock at left wheel area. Sometime, just sometime it do same when in park and turning wheel slightly. If would have someone to lie down when this happen and put hand at sway bar link etc it would help. But do not know even if is possible do it with car on ground. But if lift car it would disappear likely.

 

Listening sound again I would say it is sway bar link as sound is open. If would be lower ball joint it would be more muted. Tie end rod looseness would feel in steering.

 

Here is something to think about.



See blue arrow. Shiny part is only 1/16. Well when we installed cv axle that shiny part was like 1/4 long or more. I said to mobile mechanic it is not good. He tried to pull cv axle out little and it did go out no problem. Then he said it will seat itself when drive. Well I wasn't sure of it but I wanted him out. Only at that point of time I looked for car to be capable to drive around parking because snow was on way. Shiny part was so big obviously because ring didn't seat in groove.
Well I get gamble and when drive first night for a couple miles it were vibrations but it calmed down. Obviously cv axle ring seated in groove where need. At internet is said to put grease to hold ring in place when installing cv axle. Here is some video about that problem.


Current knocking when start drive do not have anything to do with this as is from left wheel and cv axle is on right wheel. Plus knocking started a few weeks before right lbj failure.