k n filter
Originally posted by cybershot
I realize that it doesn't make much sense, but i installed the K&N yesterday before my 150 mile trip to Austin from Houston. I have 5K miles on the car and it always gets around 29-30 on the highway going around 75 mph. The whole way I was getting right at 32. All I'm saying is mine changed. If I reset it while driving on the highway on cruise control it gives 32 mpg, before yesterday, this method showed 29-30 mpg. I know this may add some fuel to the flames, but they were my observations.
I realize that it doesn't make much sense, but i installed the K&N yesterday before my 150 mile trip to Austin from Houston. I have 5K miles on the car and it always gets around 29-30 on the highway going around 75 mph. The whole way I was getting right at 32. All I'm saying is mine changed. If I reset it while driving on the highway on cruise control it gives 32 mpg, before yesterday, this method showed 29-30 mpg. I know this may add some fuel to the flames, but they were my observations.
The difference in pressure drop between a K&N and the OEM paper filter is next to zero.
There is no scientific basis to support your claim.
Originally posted by harddrivin1le
There is no scientific basis to support your claim.
There is no scientific basis to support your claim.
Mike
I use and love cotton filters...but understand that you won't see any gain in HP from them compared to CLEAN paper (as they flow nearly identically when both are clean). However as paper get's dirty, you will start to lose HP (and MPH) from dirty paper.
If you're WILLING to pay more and change your paper filter often you're better off with paper as paper is better at filtering the tiniest particulates as well as large particulates. Cotton is just as good at the larger engine harming particulates (those larger than 20 microns).
If you're pretty lazy like me, don't like buying paper filters every oil change, use cotton. It's cheaper in the long run and stays more efficient for longer than paper.
If you're WILLING to pay more and change your paper filter often you're better off with paper as paper is better at filtering the tiniest particulates as well as large particulates. Cotton is just as good at the larger engine harming particulates (those larger than 20 microns).
If you're pretty lazy like me, don't like buying paper filters every oil change, use cotton. It's cheaper in the long run and stays more efficient for longer than paper.
Originally posted by svtmike
Says the non-TL-owner who trots out "real world" numbers and ignores scientific bases that don't support his claims.
Mike
Says the non-TL-owner who trots out "real world" numbers and ignores scientific bases that don't support his claims.
Mike
"Says" the guy who's been running various air filters (including many K&NS) since 1986 and who also understand that the difference in pressure drops ("restriction") between paper and cotton, as measured/reported in the link below, are essentially zilch.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest2.htm
Originally posted by danno
Mine fit perfect. Make sure its the right part #
Mine fit perfect. Make sure its the right part #
When I compared it side to side with the stock filter, the width is the same but the length is shorter.
Can someone help??
That's the one K&N shows on their website...and also the one people are buying from AJ-USA.com . Are you sure the filter is that...perhaps you got the wrong one in the box, or double check the box.
http://www.knfilterchargers.com/sear...x?Prod=33-2078
http://www.knfilterchargers.com/sear...x?Prod=33-2078
I am positive that I got the correct part number, here are the pictures of the filter. Can tell me if I got the correct filter?
Thanks!

[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage2.wtdr/i=wMzMwNDE0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg/img]


Thanks!

[img]http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage2.wtdr/i=wMzMwNDE0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg/img]


Originally posted by Skeedatl
That's the one K&N shows on their website...and also the one people are buying from AJ-USA.com . Are you sure the filter is that...perhaps you got the wrong one in the box, or double check the box.
http://www.knfilterchargers.com/sear...x?Prod=33-2078
That's the one K&N shows on their website...and also the one people are buying from AJ-USA.com . Are you sure the filter is that...perhaps you got the wrong one in the box, or double check the box.
http://www.knfilterchargers.com/sear...x?Prod=33-2078
Originally posted by harddrivin1le
No.
"Says" the guy who's been running various air filters (including many K&NS) since 1986 and who also understand that the difference in pressure drops ("restriction") between paper and cotton, as measured/reported in the link below, are essentially zilch.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest2.htm
No.
"Says" the guy who's been running various air filters (including many K&NS) since 1986 and who also understand that the difference in pressure drops ("restriction") between paper and cotton, as measured/reported in the link below, are essentially zilch.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest2.htm
Comparing new to new doesn't say anything. Compare them at 5K or 10K or even 15K miles (which some service intervals recommend for filter replacement) and check the difference in flow. My money is on cotton FAR outflowing paper after 15K miles.
Originally posted by svtmike
Yes.
Do I really have to post a link to the ram air thread Mr. V = the velocity of gas? That'd be so.... harddrivin-like, I'd rather not do it.
Mike
Yes.
Do I really have to post a link to the ram air thread Mr. V = the velocity of gas? That'd be so.... harddrivin-like, I'd rather not do it.
Mike
How about coming up with some of YOU OWN ideas, Mikey...
Do you have any?
Originally posted by harddrivin1le
I've explained that...
How about coming up with some of YOU OWN ideas, Mikey...
Do you have any?
I've explained that...
How about coming up with some of YOU OWN ideas, Mikey...
Do you have any?
You have no problem slamming others time and time again despite their explanations. Heck, you even create whole new threads to ridicule others on this forum. Why should you be immune from your own methods?
What's V in this equation: PV = nRT Mr. "I took fluids"?
LOL!
Mike
I know I have no scientific data to support my claim, but for the people who are interested, if I drive on the freeway at 75 mph in cruise control and reset the mpg function it is consistently showing 32 mpg, whereas the last 5,000 miles it has shown 29-30. I didn't think this would happen, but I am enjoying the fact that is has(or at least me beleaving it has)
question on install
Tried to install my new K&N filters last night. Got the one into my g/f's Escape with no problems, but couldn't figure out the TL install. I think I see where the housing is, over on the drivers side right above the battery compartment. I loosened up the 4 screws that hold the housing down, but when yoiu try and lift the housing out, it seems to get hung up unless you start taking more things apart.
I didn't want to start dismantling more than I needed to, or try and force the housing out at that point, so I just put it all back together for another day. So, should lifting out the housing be as simple as loosening those 4 screws that hold it down, or is there more to it than that?
I didn't want to start dismantling more than I needed to, or try and force the housing out at that point, so I just put it all back together for another day. So, should lifting out the housing be as simple as loosening those 4 screws that hold it down, or is there more to it than that?
Originally posted by Pug
4 philips screws, lift the cover, slip out the stock filter and slip in the K&N. It's right next to your battery.
Note: the filters have some sort of vegetable oil on them, so use caution when handling them and not getting it on your TL's paint.
4 philips screws, lift the cover, slip out the stock filter and slip in the K&N. It's right next to your battery.
Note: the filters have some sort of vegetable oil on them, so use caution when handling them and not getting it on your TL's paint.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by LVSBB6
[B]I am positive that I got the correct part number, here are the pictures of the filter. Can tell me if I got the correct filter?
Thanks!
That's obviously not the correct one. What's Pro Tech Seal?
Mine fit almost perfectly, except the K&N's corners aren't as rounded as the stock. That's about it.
[B]I am positive that I got the correct part number, here are the pictures of the filter. Can tell me if I got the correct filter?
Thanks!
That's obviously not the correct one. What's Pro Tech Seal?
Mine fit almost perfectly, except the K&N's corners aren't as rounded as the stock. That's about it.
I think the hose is connected to it.
Does just the lid itself come off without having to take a whole lot apart? Those screws seemed pretty far down into the engine compartment for the lid to come off independently.
Does just the lid itself come off without having to take a whole lot apart? Those screws seemed pretty far down into the engine compartment for the lid to come off independently.
Originally posted by Skeedatl
Is the hose holding it on? That's what was making my stick (but I was pulling out the whole box, not just the lid so I dunno if the hose is connected to the lid).
Is the hose holding it on? That's what was making my stick (but I was pulling out the whole box, not just the lid so I dunno if the hose is connected to the lid).
Originally posted by Skeedatl
10% difference is zilch? While small, it's quite a bit considering they're all BRAND NEW and that cotton maintains its flow efficiency longer than paper...so while it starts at 10%, the difference in flow just goes UP from there.
Comparing new to new doesn't say anything. Compare them at 5K or 10K or even 15K miles (which some service intervals recommend for filter replacement) and check the difference in flow. My money is on cotton FAR outflowing paper after 15K miles.
10% difference is zilch? While small, it's quite a bit considering they're all BRAND NEW and that cotton maintains its flow efficiency longer than paper...so while it starts at 10%, the difference in flow just goes UP from there.
Comparing new to new doesn't say anything. Compare them at 5K or 10K or even 15K miles (which some service intervals recommend for filter replacement) and check the difference in flow. My money is on cotton FAR outflowing paper after 15K miles.
And the''04 TLs on this board are still essentially NEW CARS. They haven't been on the road long enough for their OEM filters to become "clogged."
We both know that a K&N replacement panel filter isn't going to raise mileage by "2-3 MPG." Now someone is claiming that his mileage went up by "5 MPG" (~ 20%):wow:
A similar gain in power (~ 20%) should show up on a chassis dyno -more or less across the entire RPM spectrum. In other words, simply replacing a (neaely new) OEM TL filter with an K&N panel filter will increase peak drive wheel HP from ~ 230 HP to 276.
Originally posted by teamtl
I put harddrivin1le on my ignore list 2 weeks ago and have seen an increase in horsepower and a 5mpg gain. I highly suggest doing this and living a happier, more content life!
I put harddrivin1le on my ignore list 2 weeks ago and have seen an increase in horsepower and a 5mpg gain. I highly suggest doing this and living a happier, more content life!
Originally posted by svtmike
WTF are you talking about?
You have no problem slamming others time and time again despite their explanations. Heck, you even create whole new threads to ridicule others on this forum. Why should you be immune from your own methods?
What's V in this equation: PV = nRT Mr. "I took fluids"?
LOL!
Mike
WTF are you talking about?
You have no problem slamming others time and time again despite their explanations. Heck, you even create whole new threads to ridicule others on this forum. Why should you be immune from your own methods?
What's V in this equation: PV = nRT Mr. "I took fluids"?
LOL!
Mike

V in THAT equation in VOLUME.
But V in THIS (and many other) equation(s) in VELOCITY:
http://www.cmi.k12.il.us/~beuschlo/p...#slide0005.htm
http://www.cmi.k12.il.us/~beuschlo/p...#slide0005.htm
P + ½ r v^2 + r g y = constant
Where:
P = Pressure
V = Velocity
P + ½ r v^2 + r g y = constant
Where:
P = Pressure
V = Velocity
Originally posted by marquis
I think the hose is connected to it.
Does just the lid itself come off without having to take a whole lot apart? Those screws seemed pretty far down into the engine compartment for the lid to come off independently.
I think the hose is connected to it.
Does just the lid itself come off without having to take a whole lot apart? Those screws seemed pretty far down into the engine compartment for the lid to come off independently.
I think it's just the hose holding on too tight. Pull it off, the lid should come off no problem.
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