TheTLProject

As the title says, I just bought one recently with 156k and so far the only thing that has been done to it is an AEM CAI. I have an ATLP V2 j-pipe and ATLP High flow cat on the way. My budget is 6500. Where should I go from here. Car has had all preventative maintenance done. I would have got the 6MT but I live in downtown Baltimore and the streets aren't the best. I'm debating on buying the CT Supercharger but that's a good chunk of the money I have to play with and I'm not sure how the stock trans will hold up to the added power. Any suggestions/recommendations. I'm looking to achieve Type-S levels of power bare minimum and I'm going for a mostly sleeper look. Not big into body kits etc unless i find a good deal on the a-spec package. Thanks.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Moved to proper forum.

TheTLProject

Which one, I cant see where it was moved to.

dezymond

Trying to mod a base TL for performance is going to be expensive and I think you'd be disappointed by the results, especially with the 5AT.

Should've just got a Type-S

TheTLProject

Telling me I should have got a type S is like telling me I should have had eggs instead of waffles for breakfast two weeks ago. The car has already been bought, this is what I'm working with. No sense saying "should have/could have". If you're not going to contribute to my request, there's no sense saying anything at all.

dezymond

Read the first sentence of my post and you can clearly see I contributed.

This is a forum and you're going to get opinions and advice you don't agree with. You also started the "should have" by stating you "would have" gotten the 6MT.

TheTLProject

But in me saying that, I was simply implying that I made that choice out of a convenience factor. Telling me I should have gotten a type S sounds nothing more than like someone who just wants to hate on someone else's decision, whether or not it was intentional. Just making an observation, no time to argue on the Internet. Pointless.

dezymond

Not hating your decision at all. As a former 3G TL, I'm happy to see someone else pick one up.

I don't know how much you got your TL for, but if your budget for performance mods is $6500, you maybe could have gotten a Type S for what you paid for your base TL + $6500 or slightly a bit over. If you didn't then you must've gotten that TL for a great price.

There really isn't too much of a power difference between the base and a Type S, imo. I opted for the base when I had one because I didn't think the Type S warranted the premium price. You'll get Type S numbers with that Supercharger, I just don't think it's worth it, especially if all you want is "at least" Type S numbers, which you should get no problem.

TheTLProject

I paid 5300 for it. It was bone stock when I originally bought it. Didn't get the extra money until a few days ago.

The supercharger was more or less just an idea. I think doing full bolt ons and a tune would be the most cost effective. I'm mostly locked in on focusing on the engine but I do plan to do some minor suspension work soon. I have bfgoodrich GForce comp2 All seasons on there and they're brand new so I should be good on tires for a while.

mtiaz

I agree with dezymond, performance mods on a 5AT 3G TL won't be that rewarding and the supercharger would be a waste of money tbh. If you want a little more sound do some exhaust mods or just keep the mods on an aesthetic front. Maybe down the line get a 6MT and mod that. Totally up to you.

TheTLProject

At 556 feet of elevation, a flat road, 66 degree weather, traction control off, shifting in sport-shift just shy of 7000rpm with minor wheel slippage, I managed a first-time 0-60 run in 6.2 seconds, not bad for a car with 150k miles. I have a feeling I could get 5.9 on a dry road and slightly cooler temps. This is going to be a real good platform for modifications. So what it's an auto. Most cars are coming with dual clutch autos now and I don't hear anyone complaining so it is what it is. I'm stuck with this car for a while so I might as well make the best of it.

dezymond

Any "minor" mods like bolt-ons on the engine won't yield any significant results. There have been plenty others that have tried to make their TL into performance cars, but there really isn't much room to improve on anything unless your budget allows to, your budget is just the beginning of any significant mods needed to make the TL a true "sleeper" car.

TheTLProject

I was going to go one of two ways with my car. Supercharged and not do anything else outside of the intake/j pipe/high flow cat, or do full bolt ons from the PreCats all the way back and also a 3.7 TL intake manifold swap with a tune for all that. Gotta make it perform the best I can with what I have to work with. Anything is better than my 2004 3G Eclipse GTS auto. That thing was a dog.

mtiaz

Dual clutch auto's vs. dino-era 5-speed automatic transmissions are way different. The new DCT's don't operate like a conventional auto trans. The problem with an automatic TL and performance mods is that the 5AT creates a much larger drivetrain loss compared to a 6MT (i.e. HP used to operate torque converter in the 5AT) and the TL wasn't geared aggresively from the factory like an M3 with a DCT. No one hates on the automatic, it's just not rewarding in terms of responding to engine modifications

TheTLProject

I know mechanically speaking they're very different beasts but I'm simply talking the basic principle of it being automatic.

i want to be able to pull on my friends 04 g35 sedan automatic (bone stock, rwd base model with 185k and supposedly a rebuilt engine, that would be icing on the cake).

truonghthe

the only thing I worry about is the 04-06 AT being supercharged.

04-06 TL 258 hp AT (drive like it)

04-06 G35 280 (drive like one too)

It will take an 04-06 MT to pull on a 04-06 G35 AT.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Just make sure the engine is up to par as far as compression and maintenance. 105k service done? And then ditch the cats and throw a 75 shot on it. You will then beat a stock '04 G with ease (they're a bit quicker than your stock TL but the automatic is still only a mid second 14 car on its best day).

It's up to you, but I wouldn't S/C it. The 5AT base is hampered not only by the transmission (easy half second penalty compared to the 6MT, but you also can't run Flashpro on the 04-06' 5AT. You could super charge and do basic bolt ons and still be stuck with a 14 flat car with no real tuning solution and no room to grow.

TheTLProject

All routine maintenance has been done on the car and all paperwork to show for it. It's ready for its second life as a mild street race/auto cross car.

TheTLProject

His G35 Sedan makes 260hp not 280hp. It's an 04 base model, open diff, 185k with "rebuilt" motor. Stock trans. Low tread tires.

TheTLProject

He's afraid to drive in sport shift mode on his car so that will give me a slight advantage just on that alone since I can ride the RPMs a little longer.

truonghthe

give it a try and you will loose (unless he can't drive). by number alone your TL been out class in all category.


04 BASE Sedan: 3336 lbs, 260hp @6000 RPM/ 260 ft-lbs @4800 rpm

06 BASE TL: 3580 lbs, 258hp @6200 RPM/ 233 ft-lbs @5000 rpm


if compare on paper with both car equip same tires, your car is 244 lbs heavier and the torque is less which peak later than the G. My prediction with equivalent driver you will slowly seeing the G pulling away. BTW I can drive my TL in D mode and still hit the redline.


But hey you got money and its your car, so do whatever makes you happy.

TheTLProject

How about after the HFPC/j pipe/high flow cat/Greddy evo2 catback? In addition of course to my intake, but no time for any of those mods?

TheTLProject

I meant slightly past redline my bad. Didn't clarify.

TheTLProject

Im also looking into a much better suspension and the A-Spec suspension seems like the best over all with me living in the city. A slight drop with slightly firmer ride. Plus it's fairly cheap compared to other options.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

Just saw this. What does the quality of the roads have to do with not buying a manual?

DementiaPhuro

These other nice gentlemen have hit the nail on the head as nicest as they possible could. You will be disappointed with the results you will end up with if you do plan to mod the TL for performance. No offense, spend your money elsewhere and wisely. You will get no satisfaction from this due to the minimal gain you will receive from these performance mods. If you really wanted to spend that money, put it into aesthetics as it will be better in the long run and make you a much more happier person.

If you're willing to dump all that money away, might as well wire transfer it to me and let me hold onto it for safe keeping. With all the work you're willing to put into it to make it "Type S" standards, you might as well have bought a Type S to begin with, with that money.

Financially, none of that makes any sense to me. You're setting a bar that isn't even that high, but it's fiscally irresponsible to achieve for many reasons as explained by these fellow enthusiasts themselves.


It's your money, do what you want with it. Just don't be upset when you realize you made a mistake after you invested all that money into it.


These guys have been more than kind enough to offer you excellent advice and gave you plenty of feedback/counter-arguments to what your goals are for this car.

TheTLProject

Living in the city with constant stop and go traffic is why I didn't get the manual. The quality of the roads definitely matters too because I'm sure it's unsettling driving a manual thru a war zone of potholes and uneven pavement (which Baltimore has in spades for both).

jo-nathanpham

I can try and bounce a few ideas around in here for you. I admire your goals, since a base 5AT is what many of us own (myself included) and I would like to make mine fun to drive as well... However, I prefer my fun when the straights end, as opposed to just raw power.

If you want HFPC/j-pipe/catback, definitely look to the Black Market to get them used to save some money. Like the others have said, the gains are minimal, but still nice to have if you're looking to free up some power. Intake I would probably skip, since the stock air box is more than adequate. GReddy EVO2 is discontinued, so you'll need to find a suitable alternative (probably RV6 or XLR8).

The cheapest thing you can do is some weight reduction, probably in the trunk or rear seat area if you don't need to cart passengers around. Lightweight wheels are a plus too, along with some good tires if you want to maximize what power you have with the limitations of a front-wheel drive car.

The suspension is where I spend most of my extra money on when I can, since it's the most gratifying aspect to work on. I haven't touched anything under the hood other than maintenance upkeep, but whenever I need to replace something under the car I will upgrade it.

You can go with BC Racing/ISC/Tein Street Advance or Street Flex with EDFC, or even A-Spec (if you can find one of these increasingly rare sets), along with a front and/or rear sway bar upgrade, Fastline Performance compliance bearing upgrade, front/rear camber kit, etc. These will allow you to fine-tune the feel of the car as you need.

I'm not an expert mechanic, but I enjoy wrenching with friends and learning more about this car as we work on it. Fun doesn't always come in straight lines for me - I enjoy being able to hit the roads and testing my cornering limits, and then being able to take myself and four friends in comfort for a late-night bite afterwards, then letting my mom and sister take the car to work the day after and look good doing so.

Hopefully you'll find something useful here - maybe you already knew all about this stuff, but everybody has different directions to take their modding to. You'll enjoy this car, just like I enjoy mine!

csmeance

1. Reduce weight, get rid of the spare, etc. Look at the diet threads in performance section.

2. Ultimate Cooling Mod, helps retain power.

3. Make sure your mounts and bushings such as lower control arms are in good shape, swaybars too & endlinks.

4. Better brakes and tires - Racing Brake 2 piece slotted rotors with ET500 pads. You can stop way better, RB rotors last FOREVER (have over 140K on mine now with ASpec Pads)

5. Better tires - you can't use the power if you can't put it down.

6. Clean the intake manifold and throttle body. If you are handy look into installing the MDX/P2R Intake manifold spacer and Thermal gaskets.

7. Get the J-pipe

8. Get the Pre-Cat Deletes

9. Upgrade the rear sway bar (best $100 you'll spend)

10. Exhaust upgrade (mufflers & piping)

11. Lightweight Crank Pulley (ebay has knockoffs that are pretty cheap and reliable)

12. New Shocks, yours are probably worn.


I'd do the rear sway bar, j-pipe and weight reduction first. That won't deplete the budget at all and will give more power and handling.

Check all the rubber stuff I mentioned and replace it if necessary. If those have play the whole car will feel sloppy. New shocks will help too, I got a used set with 20K miles in the blackmarket section that I put on my TL with 200K.

Drei

iTrader: (2)

I'd set aside about half of that for when the transmission gives out

Congrats on the purchase!

TheTLProject

Is it true the PCD will cause gas smell and possible emissions test failing? I was gonna do HFPC instead.

TheTLProject

And thanks Drei don't worry I've prepared for that lol

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

my six speed TL with minor mods whoops G35's and G37's only from a roll of 60 or higher.

your auto with mods will never eat G35s off the line.

thegipper

This. With 156k miles on these glass ATs it could literally go out any day now with zero mods to it. Adding more power is only going to shorten the life of an already extremely fragile transmission.

If you are going to mod it, keep three grand set aside for when the tranny blows up.

mtiaz

PCD will smell like ass since its unfiltered exhaust fumes, I personally can't stand it. If you do tailpipe emissions wherever you are you will most likely fail emission testing. If you do an OBD-II scan, you can most likely get away with it by properly installing defoulers that trick the ECU into thinking cats are still present.

Best bet is HFPC since cats are still in place and will likely pass emissions though it won't make as much power as PCD since there is no restriction of exhaust flow. For me I'd go HFPC even though they're a bit more expensive and don't create as big as a power jump compared to PCD.

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

^^

The power difference between PCDs and HFPCs is really a non issue. You're not going to notice 3whp either way.

nist7

PCDs will fail emissions, I think thats the point of them making HFPC so that you still get some power gains but can pass emissions.

I live in a city that doesn't do emissions but will be moving to denver in couple years which DO emissions so I'll be leaving my 06 5AT alone. I was also contemplating mods like you're doing but in the end the cost/power ratio is too bad and I'll just stick to a regular TL as a daily driver and then add bigger/better cars later when I have the finances to do so.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^i have pcd's and have never failed emissions.

truonghthe

^^^^that because you live in Houston lol.

OP AT will rob all performance gain by mods.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

lol, as long as it doesnt throw a check engine light, all is goood!!