J37 crank/rods in J32A3
just out of curiosity which other J series parts will fit in the J32a3 in my 2004 TL 6 speed. I'm aware of the j35a8 cams and pistons, as well as the crank from the 04 MDX j35a3 will fit without trouble, but I've also been reading up and some threads say that the J37 rods and crank will fit along with the bearings. Can anyone verify this for sure? and which J37, since there's the A1, A2, A4, and A5; because I'd actually be looking into doing it. Does it change the displacement depending on which crank you use?
http://www.dchautomotiveparts.com/au...ft-piston-scat
and these rods since they are stronger and lighter than the mdx ones. also why they are almost triple the price
http://www.dchautomotiveparts.com/au...ft-piston-scat
It cost me $2500 to build my j36. I got used 08 mdx heads from a junkyard for $250 and got them cleaned at a machine shop. Everything else was new from acura
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i'm trying to get my J37 heads installed this weekend.
if i come across anything bad in the stock 3.2 bottom block, i'll go for the J37 crank/rods..
just for reference, I made 220ftlbs at 2500 rpm with pcd and jpipe on stock J32.
if i come across anything bad in the stock 3.2 bottom block, i'll go for the J37 crank/rods..
just for reference, I made 220ftlbs at 2500 rpm with pcd and jpipe on stock J32.
Does it sacrifice HP for TQ?
What about weight diff?
The crank for the type s j35 is around $750 at acuraoemparts. Why so much compared to the ones in the links above?
What about weight diff?
The crank for the type s j35 is around $750 at acuraoemparts. Why so much compared to the ones in the links above?
Last edited by FamilyGuy; Jul 23, 2014 at 02:06 PM.
check out the cool J37 thread!!
as the mad scientist are breaking down the engines, they've found some pretty cool revelations.
one being the J37 is detuned. you see, the engineers build the J-series for economy purposes. with lighter components and less moving parts. as a by product of this, reliability gets stronger! but the engine is still only making 300hp...
that smells of de-tuning.
as the mad scientist are breaking down the engines, they've found some pretty cool revelations.
one being the J37 is detuned. you see, the engineers build the J-series for economy purposes. with lighter components and less moving parts. as a by product of this, reliability gets stronger! but the engine is still only making 300hp...
that smells of de-tuning.
I just need to get the crank bolt off, so that i can continue taking off the heads...
that crank bolt is a bitch!
In my case I think it did, yes. I only made 298 peak horsepower. I also think that the RL cams had something to do with it . I think the are better for low end torque. I should've just stuck with mdx cams. My plan was to gut the high flow car and yank the butterflies and re-tune, but I think I am just going to sell the car because I never drive it
I've read many conflicting stories, so I don't know what to believe. The service manual says that lift and duration are lower than type s. I've read when measured side by side with type s, that they are the same. And I've read that they measured out higher. Go figure. I do know that they are not hollow, so there is one disadvantage. At least my motor is in an accord coupe, so it does move along well, but I'm over it. I just installed the tbmotorworx fd and spec stage 3+ clutch as well. Still breaking in the clutch
Could be. Since the P/N's are slight diff I wonder what the differences are between the cranks. I'd love to do lighter internals if not too expensive and keep it NA.
Congrats on the mods! I'm liking the traditional clutch better than the self adjust OEM one. Did you also get a LW flywheel?
Only wish our 4 door TLs were as light as the Accord coupes. ~3100lbs would be sweet
I've read many conflicting stories, so I don't know what to believe. The service manual says that lift and duration are lower than type s. I've read when measured side by side with type s, that they are the same. And I've read that they measured out higher. Go figure. I do know that they are not hollow, so there is one disadvantage. At least my motor is in an accord coupe, so it does move along well, but I'm over it. I just installed the tbmotorworx fd and spec stage 3+ clutch as well. Still breaking in the clutch
Only wish our 4 door TLs were as light as the Accord coupes. ~3100lbs would be sweet
Could be. Since the P/N's are slight diff I wonder what the differences are between the cranks. I'd love to do lighter internals if not too expensive and keep it NA.
Congrats on the mods! I'm liking the traditional clutch better than the self adjust OEM one. Did you also get a LW flywheel?
Only wish our 4 door TLs were as light as the Accord coupes. ~3100lbs would be sweet
Congrats on the mods! I'm liking the traditional clutch better than the self adjust OEM one. Did you also get a LW flywheel?
Only wish our 4 door TLs were as light as the Accord coupes. ~3100lbs would be sweet

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family guy is on tracK!

