It's really a shame....
bmw = zero rattles
but also comes with a price once warranty is out..
my view is
bmw (or any other euro, mbz, audi) = for lease only, they dont last long. and will kill you once warranty is out.
acura/honda (or any other jdm, toyota, scion, etc) = cars that you want to own for a long time. low maintenance. cost effective
but also comes with a price once warranty is out..
my view is
bmw (or any other euro, mbz, audi) = for lease only, they dont last long. and will kill you once warranty is out.
acura/honda (or any other jdm, toyota, scion, etc) = cars that you want to own for a long time. low maintenance. cost effective
My TL has rattled from the day I picked it up. It had 38k on it I do believe.
To me though there is a difference between rattles and just general "settling". For instance, the rear deck rattles, flat out. But when you go over speed bumps, highway bumps, etc, you get like a "movement/settling" sound. Like the frame / subframe just isn't strong enough and flexes too much which in turn makes the dash/center console/glovebox/etc kind of "creak". What I'm explaining there is the thing that DOESNT happen in a BMW. BMWs can rattles, but they feel solid, and have never given me that "flexing" feeling/sound.
To me though there is a difference between rattles and just general "settling". For instance, the rear deck rattles, flat out. But when you go over speed bumps, highway bumps, etc, you get like a "movement/settling" sound. Like the frame / subframe just isn't strong enough and flexes too much which in turn makes the dash/center console/glovebox/etc kind of "creak". What I'm explaining there is the thing that DOESNT happen in a BMW. BMWs can rattles, but they feel solid, and have never given me that "flexing" feeling/sound.
I've read some stories about some TL's having rattle after rattle. Rattles in ANY car are hard to find, so having more than one would definitely be annoying. I've been lucky enough to only have a rattle from the subwoofer, but that was easily fixed. It is a fairly expensive car, but that is just one of the problems these cars sometimes have.
When I got my car the passenger door panel and rear package tray rattled. I folded up a little piece of paper jammed it in between the door panel and mirror cover (?don't know what it's called) and that stopped the rattle. I got a piece of cardboard and stuck it in between the package tray and window where it can't be seen. Rattles stopped.
My friend's dad always says that BMW stand for Bring My Wallet, because every time he takes it to the dealer it costs him a fortune
My friend's dad always says that BMW stand for Bring My Wallet, because every time he takes it to the dealer it costs him a fortune
bmw = zero rattles
but also comes with a price once warranty is out..
my view is
bmw (or any other euro, mbz, audi) = for lease only, they dont last long. and will kill you once warranty is out.
acura/honda (or any other jdm, toyota, scion, etc) = cars that you want to own for a long time. low maintenance. cost effective
but also comes with a price once warranty is out..
my view is
bmw (or any other euro, mbz, audi) = for lease only, they dont last long. and will kill you once warranty is out.
acura/honda (or any other jdm, toyota, scion, etc) = cars that you want to own for a long time. low maintenance. cost effective
The rattle is just the rear deck vibrating against the rear window. So if you can get some padding in between the middle part of the deck and the window it stops it completely. But there is also some way you can open up the trunk liner and stick something up in there to stop it.... This way just seemed easier.
Last edited by Healingduck; Apr 5, 2012 at 03:59 PM.
I've heard stories. A guy I work with has a 2009-11ish 3 series. Apparently they don't have a dipstick and you have to rely on the car telling you when you need oil and a change. Dealers also charge 50 bucks just to reset the oil indicator. Although I know older ones had crazy combinations to do it yourself.
I've heard stories. A guy I work with has a 2009-11ish 3 series. Apparently they don't have a dipstick and you have to rely on the car telling you when you need oil and a change. Dealers also charge 50 bucks just to reset the oil indicator. Although I know older ones had crazy combinations to do it yourself.
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