mortifer

After reading a lot of Road Rage's posts I am not sure if I am more clear on the issue or more confused. It seems like Motorcraft 5w20 synblend is the oil of choice if you want to stick with the factory weight. I really dont care about sticking with the factory weight, but I am interested in keeping my engine in great condition because I plan on keeping this car for quite some time (probably 6-8 years and 100-120k miles). I do not dog the car much.. pretty much just easy going with the occasional flash of speed. I live in St. Louis where the summer temps hit 109 and in the winter it can get to the 0s. I am honestly looking for a good solution for the 05 TL (5AT). Should I go with the synblend 5w20 or go with a 5w30 (what brand?). I have tried to read as much as I can, but I cant seem to find a straight answer.

Also, what filter is preferred? With the corvette this was easier... there was 2-3 oils that everyone used (M1, Redline or Amsoil - all 5w30) and the UPF44 filter... now I am just trying to find a good recomendation.

I appreciate any and all help. I am hoping Road Rage jumps in for a little help. I really just want to keep the car a long time and not worry about the oil I put in it.

Thanks Guys!!

DarkWraith33

Please, PLEASE read my post, #10 within the following thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111549

If I can help just one person... ROFL

Just my , no need to spout off in here again!

mortifer

The Mobil1 5w30 was what I was considering since that is what the vette used and I use in my Trailblazer (the Manual said that 5w30 syn was ok, so since I already got it for the vette I went ahead and used it for the Trailblazer). The reason I asked is that Road Rage seemed to lean away from Mobil1. The reason I haven't just picked one is that there is such an opinion on here that I dont feel comfy just picking one of the many and driving off into the sunset. I would really like to know whether the Motorcraft 5w20 synblend would be better for the TL in the longrun over the Mobil1 5w30. I know computers, but for oil I am deferring to those that know.

KilroyR1

I agree 100%. I frequent many motorcycle internet forums and people worry about this stuff when the average sportbike rider gets a new bike every three years.

You can put just about anything in the crankcase on a reasonable basis and the motor will last the 100K to 120K you are looking for.

Don

Road Rage

I agree - my posts and observations are theoretical as much as practical, for the guy who wants to make 1,000,000 miles. Today's quality minoils, esp the Havoline and Motorcraft, are awesome products, and cheap.

I think for most of the people here, the factory 5w20 makes sense and should provide long service life, esp if something like the Motorcraft 5w20 synblend or Havoline (Chevron Supreme) is used. Their wear analyses look great, and you can use them year-round with no concern. In the hottest climates and under the heaviest loads (racing, towing) I still like the shear stability and film strength of the best 10w30's, but do not believe anyone who should agonize over the decision, esp if there is a warranty factor (such as an extended warranty). Then, ensuring that the factory fill is observed could mean hard $'s, and I would not want to advise anyone to do something that could jeopardize their position.

JackSprat01

Can you not get a straight answer or can you simply not digest and make a decision based on the excellent quality and quantity of information here? I think you can easily get straight answers here, but if you're looking for a consensus, forget it. You might find that at the Kia forum: Walmart Super Tech 10w30 and Fram filters. Now that is a straight answer.

That03TLguy

5w20 means 5w20. I ran 5w20 Honda Oil w/ a Honda filter "gasp I did it on my own" and my '03 TL was flawless over 2 years running.

The fact that Motorcraft (that would be ->FORD<-) even exists in a Honda forum = ROFL for me.

JackSprat01

You could put mayonaise in there for two years and be fine. Two years is NOTHING. Any you can ROFL all you want, but you shouldn't disparage an oil just because it's of another brand. Do you even know what it's composition is? Closed minds are small ones.

Besides, Ford isn't as distant as you think from Honda. For example, the instrument cluster in my wife's 2000 Honda Accord? Made by Ford. It's a global world now, get used to it.

dashotgun

I agree with Dark wraith I had a 95 maxima and I went with the manufactures drain interval 5- 7000 min oil ( just used jiffy lube whatever) I thought it would be a short term car but ended up keeping it to 155,000( it got rearended and totaled) At the end of its life still did not need any oil between changes ran like a champ. We love these cars but I bet the vast majority although you plan to keep it 10 years 100,000 will sell it sooner then that. I think the average car is sold after 3 -4 years.

SodaLuvr

I'd agree.

However, even under high stress conditions, even though the use of a thicker oil seems logical, it won't necessairly be better. 5W-20 oils are very shear stable.

If you're concerned, I'd run Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 under very severe conditions. The oil is VERY shear stable, but has a nasty tendency to thicken. Formerly, the volatility of the oil was 8.6%, thus giving it a tendency to thicken, but it has since be reformulated and is now in the 6-7% range.

I'd definitely run an analysis on this oil after 6K to check for thickening.

Copper act as a catalyst for thickening since it causes increased oxidation to the oil. The TL's engine produces a lot of copper compared to other engines, thus its not a good candidate for extended drains. High Insolubles are another cause, thus, the usage of Fuel Power (FP), which lowers the insolubles, is another way of keeping the thickening under control.

I'll post more on this topic later.

Michael

spacejamz

not sure which OIL THREAD to post this in...

what, if any, reason should I not just drop it off at an Acura or Honda dealership (I brought my 00TL to a Honda dealer for the oil changes since it was 15 miles closer to me) for an oil change and let them use whatever they use?

Since I am leasing, I am sure whatever they use won't cause my any issues for 42 months anyway...

SodaLuvr

Heh, I called the Fram produced Honda OE filter that the dealer uses a "30-day filter." By thats just me.

If you want dealer service, my suggestion is to save money by heading to a Honda dealer, like you did.

For example, my local Honda dealer, Carmichael Honda, charges $35 for an oil/filter change (Chevron), tire rotation, and car wash. Acura dealer charges more than twice as much.

If your Honda dealer uses Honda Oil, it is basically Exxon Superflo, which is a very good high-molybdenum oil.

Michael

Road Rage

The fact that Motorcraft (that would be ->FORD<-) even exists in a Honda forum = ROFL for me.[/QUOTE]

Amigo: That sort of prejudice will not serve you well in life - the Motorcraft oils are not made by Ford, but even if they were, the simple facts are that they are some of the best oils out there, and esp in the 5w20 synblend, arguably THE best.

Laugh at Ford all you want, why not GM too since they did not post a very good Quarter? But I would gladly add a Ford GT or a Corvette 2006 Z06 to my stable, any day of the week.

Brand snobbery is short-sighted. When the trunk release solenoid on my 1995 M3 failed, I found the exact same one, complete with all the markings except for the BMW logo, at Radio Shack, for 1/12 the price BMW wanted for this Asian part. But it was mostly the German parts that failed on that car, and contributed to my lousy 3 year experience. I do not care to won snobby car brands, even though i can afford them. I own a 2004 TL, a 2004 S2000, and yes, a cruddy 2003 Ford SVT Cobra - a primitive farm implement that goes like stink, has been dead reliable, and for $1k investment, yielded over 438 RWHP! ROFL is a good strategy rather than inhaling my tire smoke.

SodaLuvr

I can't help it.

I call grocery store 5W-30 oil a 5-30 day oil.

Someone please help me.

Yes, RR, I don't have this type of prejudice normally except toward Fram, Quaker State, and Valvoline products.

Michael

theactivist

road rage,
what did you mean with the sentence above?

and do you think it's ok to just have the dealer use their standard oil? i too plan to have the TL for quite a while.

thanks!

Lore

Tell me more about your prejudice towards Valvoline. I thought that their Durablend oils were pretty decent (at least that's what I read on this forum somewhere... and I believe it was a discussion that RR was involved in). Just bought 12 qts at Kragen's today, but will not hesitate to take it back if I can get better oil at a comparable price.

I still need to go find some Motorcraft oil... didn't someone say that it was sold at Walmart?

Lore

Ah, I found it.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ight=valvoline

Check post #3:
"4) Both the Motocraft (MC) and Valvoline DuraBlend (DB) products are excellent. On paper, MC 5w20 and DB are nip and tuck. Both use Group III hydrocracked mineral oil bases - but Valvoline also lists GIII HC's as the stcok for its "full synthetic" product as well. So, it appears to be like most "synoils" today, a GIII lubricant. Paying more for Synpower over Durablend looks like a rip to me. Synpower used to contain Group IV PAO's, but Castrol changed the game forever, at least in the US. Point is, as I have said many times, the synoils of today and the minoils of today have little separation in many products, so the choice is obvious - go for the less expensive one."

I paid $1.99 per quart for the Valvoline Durablend, but will be more than happy to switch to an even cheaper oil if I can find one. I think Walmart carries Havoline, right? Kragen just cleared them out and no longer sells them.