BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, i just picked up the Illuminated Door sills for my 2006 NBP.

I did the wiring and everything myself, tested, works GREAT.. Looks even BETTER


BUT...... The damn rear door sills dont fit! I bent a little, used new 3M tape, cleaned it.. did it inside (above 60.0F temp) and NOTHING, they keep coming off the sill. The front sills are fine (as they are perfectly straight)


anybody here do these themselves and have the issue?? what did you do to resolve it?

Thorin78

Try using velcro on both sides or super glue, like those silicon glue things. I personally didn't glue mine, and used alot of 3M tape and velcro.

gqchicago

Everyone has had that issue, it's a real pain. I ended up using epoxy and cementing them in place basically, the 2 sided tape kept coming up. I epoxied them in place in my garage and clamped them in place overnight so it would set up well (with the battery disconnected so the battery wouldn't die overnight).

Buda

iTrader: (1)

Wow, I didn't know about this problem. I order the sills this week. I should get them tomorrow and install this weekend. I'll have to think of a good way to get them to stay in till I install them.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Hey Buda, the DIY is EASY. but TRUST ME on this one. the sills, simply "glue/stick" over ur stock ones. do that part FIRST. put the glo guages under the new sills, use the tape, then put them on your old sills and use clamps. i used (2) C-Clamps per sill, and let it sit INDOORS (as the tape needs 60"F or higher).

the wiring, PIECE of cake. but dont use the directions that donna from ebay will give you. Follow them ,but forget about the 3M T-Taps. just splice the wires, twist, and tape the tightly.

All-in-all, a BEAUTIFUL mod, but those back sills will not stick well with just the 3M tape provided, im gonna use gqchicagos advice and epoxy mine and C-Clamp them for a day. If moisture gets in, those sills are good as garbage.

Buda

iTrader: (1)

^-- dang, didn't see this till now and I just got done with the install. I did the taps but am planning on redoing the wiring anyway later to get rid of the excess. I did run into problems with the back sill on the first one but I learned some things from it and had a clean go on the other back door sill. I'm to tired right now to post details. I'll post it tomorrow.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Please! Let me know how it went and what you did to get your back sills on and stay in place. Im leaning towards an epoxy when i get a few hours to do it. with C-Clamps too!

Buda

iTrader: (1)

Sorry it took so long to get back on this. I don't really have the proper pics for this. Basically here is the problem with the rear door sills.
1. The curve toward the back starts to soon
2. The curve does not go up sharp enough at the end. This makes the middle of the bend stick to far up from the EOM grill.

Here's what I did for the rear sills:
1. Set grill face up on table and push down on end bent up to straighten it some. It doesn't need much, you just want the curve up to start a little further back.

2. I then took it to the car and set it on the EOM sill. Of course the center was way up in the air since I straightened it some. I then pushed down on the grill right above the bend in the OEM sill. This helps to put the bend where it should be. At this point you have the bend starting in a better place on the grill but it still doesn't fit right so there to more things to do.

3. Take the sill off the EOM sill. Use your hands to help increase bend toward to back just a little bit more than it is now. It doesn't need to much. The real problem isn't where the bend is now, but where the sill ends.

4. Now that you have the bend in a more accurate place/angle, the last thing to correct is the end of the sill. The end of the OEM sill has a sharper upslant. You need to make the new sill match this. This is where you need to take some care in manipulating the sill. Don't grab the sill at the very edge and try to bend up from there. That will cause a crease to appear as the outer corner is not reinforece. Instead go 1 inch in on the end with the bend and increase the bend up a little bit at that point. Again it doesn't take much.

5. As for the 3M tape. I just bought some more and added more tape. I also discovered that the rubber guard around the OEM sill makes it harder for the preinstalled tape to catch properly. I put a second layer of 3M over all the existing 3M tape. This helped immensly and still did not cause the sills to hit the door.

Did I clamp it... No
I'm in MN and I did it on a day at 19 degrees out. I got my garage to 51 degrees and then used a space heater to warm up the OEM sills before putting on the lighted sills. I held down the new sills for a few minutes and kept the space heater on it for about another 5 min. I double checked the mounting and just added some more pressure for a few more minutes where needed. There is only 1 sill I need to redo (a front one before I discovered the double up on the 3m tape).

Also on the second layer of 3m tape. I tried to position it more to the inside so that it would be on the side of the rubber frame an connect to the OEM metal sill. I think I have a pic of the tape setup. I'll have to check.

Last piece of advice to remember. If you do this method. Bend the new sill a small amount at a time and recheck it on the OEM sill before bending again. It really doesn't take that much, you just have to move the bend to the correct starting point and the increase the flare up at the last inch and you are set.

I have had the ligheted sills on since saturday with no problems, all of the check out fine. If anyone else in twin cities area is going to put these on, I'd be glad to help. That way I could get the proper pics and/or video of how I did this if you want it done that way.

terminex

Not sure if anyone still has this problem, but I am NOT a fan of epoxy for resolving this. I want my factory Sills to be untouched.

What I did was simply take a piece of rubber, fold it, and then stick it between the sill & the door. left it for 24hrs. (this will bend the sills perfectly) have had the sills on for almost a year with no problems.

To get the rubber right, you need to close the door most of the way and angle the piece of rubbber between the edge of the sill & the door, so that when you close the door it pushes the rubber all the way between the door and the sill. (I used windex to remove any rubber marks from my sills whebn i removed the rubber after 24hrs)

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

interesting approach. i honestly did do sh*t. i put my rear ones on half assed... and they've been fine for 3 months. i dont let anybody in my backseat too often anyway.

epoxy when i get around to it

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

i mean didnt do sh*t

Elegant TYPE S

iTrader: (2)

Use Clear Silicone glue instead of Epoxy, less permanent and if you ever wanted to take it off you can still take it off and clean off the silicone without major damage to the underlying area, compared to epoxy and it works just as fine, I used it on my older sills.

kamuiangl

iTrader: (1)

why do you say not to use the t-taps?

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

the T-Taps are kinda crappy, and you'll get a poor connection. I simply stripped the sheilding of the wires, twisted them good, and taped them up (electrical tape, of course)

they've been working like a charm for 4 months

Ganplosive

sorry for reviving an old thread but today I just spent 4 hours pulling apart the passenger side, was able to install everything on the rear and have the exact same problem: the rear sills don't match the original and leaves a gap.

My main question is where do I tap into the wires in the front? I cannot seem to find the "front passenger switch" shown in SBADESIGNS did you guys cut the tubing and tap into the wire there?

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

the front sills , there is small tubing INSIDE the "B" pillar ? thats the middle pillar between the two doors... stick your finger in there, behind the foam rubber, and pull the harness out.. there is ALOT of slack on the wire.. i've installed these things three times.. everytime , flawless.. but the damn rear sills dont fit ... you gotta use epoxy to make it stay strong

kamuiangl

iTrader: (1)

i never got around to installing the rear sills yet. maybe re-reading this thread ill try and attempt some of these tactics

u1arunit

iTrader: (1)

I just did mine a month or so ago and did this with excellent results:

5. As for the 3M tape. I just bought some more and added more tape. I also discovered that the rubber guard around the OEM sill makes it harder for the preinstalled tape to catch properly. I put a second layer of 3M over all the existing 3M tape. This helped immensly and still did not cause the sills to hit the door.

u1arunit

iTrader: (1)

Just cut the tape on the black loom going to the front switch and tap it there. It's at the bottom of the b pillar area.