If you have a 6 Speed MT and HATE the shifting: READ ME
#81
Hey BEAR, how's tricks?
For everyone else here, what BEAR is describing is (was?) called "bang shifting". This was a technique whereby the driver performed shifts without using the clutch AND with his foot in the throttle the whole time. When BEAR talks about removing dog teeth, this was done to machines that were not street use cars.
Incidently, I believe it was the teeth arrayed around the outside of the synchronizers which insert into their corresponding blocker ring "tabs" that were alternately removed. I remember a friend doing this to a Muncie 4-speed from a GTO he was setting up for the track.
For everyone else here, what BEAR is describing is (was?) called "bang shifting". This was a technique whereby the driver performed shifts without using the clutch AND with his foot in the throttle the whole time. When BEAR talks about removing dog teeth, this was done to machines that were not street use cars.
Incidently, I believe it was the teeth arrayed around the outside of the synchronizers which insert into their corresponding blocker ring "tabs" that were alternately removed. I remember a friend doing this to a Muncie 4-speed from a GTO he was setting up for the track.
Those were the bad old days when I drove a Super Duty Catalina for Holsey Chevrolet- Pontiac which is now part of the DiFeo auto group in Jersey City.
All things being equal a non modified Muncie 4 speed could never match the worked over version.
That being said outside of the track they went everyplace on a trailer because they were not streetable at all.
My '66 GTO was a ram air tri-power with a Royal Oak Bobcat kit in it. Was my everyday driver which was very quick for a street car of the time but not competitive at all in the "stock" classes.
Used to run it at Englishtown Raceway Park as a bracket racer in what is the equivalent of the Trophy Stock classes.
#82
You might have also wanted to add these three threads with preceded yours on a quick Google search for a balanced presentation of the issue.
Animation that shows how it works
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ
Comparison info - important part is how its a matched system & when you are taking out the restrictor valve the system is no longer matched which increases the load on the flywheel friction section & the spring itself.
http://www.high-impact.net/transmiss...svsSolidFW.htm
The single mass as a replacement section should be of interest.
http://www.europeancarweb.com/tech/0...els/index.html
Will not beat this any further to death but these just some things to think about with modern cars. It was a lot easier to modify a car & not have unintended consequences happen in the bad old days.
#83
Doing well, thank you.
Those were the bad old days when I drove a Super Duty Catalina for Holsey Chevrolet- Pontiac which is now part of the DiFeo auto group in Jersey City.
All things being equal a non modified Muncie 4 speed could never match the worked over version.
That being said outside of the track they went everyplace on a trailer because they were not streetable at all.
My '66 GTO was a ram air tri-power with a Royal Oak Bobcat kit in it. Was my everyday driver which was very quick for a street car of the time but not competitive at all in the "stock" classes.
Used to run it at Englishtown Raceway Park as a bracket racer in what is the equivalent of the Trophy Stock classes.
Those were the bad old days when I drove a Super Duty Catalina for Holsey Chevrolet- Pontiac which is now part of the DiFeo auto group in Jersey City.
All things being equal a non modified Muncie 4 speed could never match the worked over version.
That being said outside of the track they went everyplace on a trailer because they were not streetable at all.
My '66 GTO was a ram air tri-power with a Royal Oak Bobcat kit in it. Was my everyday driver which was very quick for a street car of the time but not competitive at all in the "stock" classes.
Used to run it at Englishtown Raceway Park as a bracket racer in what is the equivalent of the Trophy Stock classes.
My '66 Chevelle had the M21 close ratio (2.20 first) box with 3.73's out back.
#84
Interesting cut & paste on the aa1car.com thread.
You might have also wanted to add these three threads with preceded yours on a quick Google search for a balanced presentation of the issue.
Animation that shows how it works
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ
Comparison info - important part is how its a matched system & when you are taking out the restrictor valve the system is no longer matched which increases the load on the flywheel friction section & the spring itself.
http://www.high-impact.net/transmiss...svsSolidFW.htm
The single mass as a replacement section should be of interest.
http://www.europeancarweb.com/tech/0...els/index.html
Will not beat this any further to death but these just some things to think about with modern cars. It was a lot easier to modify a car & not have unintended consequences happen in the bad old days.
You might have also wanted to add these three threads with preceded yours on a quick Google search for a balanced presentation of the issue.
Animation that shows how it works
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ
Comparison info - important part is how its a matched system & when you are taking out the restrictor valve the system is no longer matched which increases the load on the flywheel friction section & the spring itself.
http://www.high-impact.net/transmiss...svsSolidFW.htm
The single mass as a replacement section should be of interest.
http://www.europeancarweb.com/tech/0...els/index.html
Will not beat this any further to death but these just some things to think about with modern cars. It was a lot easier to modify a car & not have unintended consequences happen in the bad old days.
I agree with you completely that cars have changed and modding is not done the way it used to be. I repeat, time will tell how the mod will really effect the reliability of the TL and other cars that people have done this mod to. I did enjoy your insight into this and knowledge of cars.
#85
Base kit that I had , which came on a Grayhound bus from Micigan, was thin head gaskets, locking rocker nuts, bigger jets for all three carbs, springs - weights & an advance limiter for the distributer. I think you could also order new valve springs but the factory Ram Air package came with a higher lift longer duration cam, new springs, retainers & locks.
Seaside Heights, NJ summer of !966. The late 50's through the 60's will stand for a very long time as the classic era to grow up in.
I had the wide ratio box with if IIRC a 3.55 Posi rear. I do remember increasing the rear, can't remember the number now, because the mods were causing the engine to bog at low RPM WOT. It really sucked under 3,000RPM.
Seaside Heights, NJ summer of !966. The late 50's through the 60's will stand for a very long time as the classic era to grow up in.
I had the wide ratio box with if IIRC a 3.55 Posi rear. I do remember increasing the rear, can't remember the number now, because the mods were causing the engine to bog at low RPM WOT. It really sucked under 3,000RPM.
#86
Base kit that I had , which came on a Grayhound bus from Micigan, was thin head gaskets, locking rocker nuts, bigger jets for all three carbs, springs - weights & an advance limiter for the distributer. I think you could also order new valve springs but the factory Ram Air package came with a higher lift longer duration cam, new springs, retainers & locks.
Seaside Heights, NJ summer of !966. The late 50's through the 60's will stand for a very long time as the classic era to grow up in.
I had the wide ratio box with if IIRC a 3.55 Posi rear. I do remember increasing the rear, can't remember the number now, because the mods were causing the engine to bog at low RPM WOT. It really sucked under 3,000RPM.
Seaside Heights, NJ summer of !966. The late 50's through the 60's will stand for a very long time as the classic era to grow up in.
I had the wide ratio box with if IIRC a 3.55 Posi rear. I do remember increasing the rear, can't remember the number now, because the mods were causing the engine to bog at low RPM WOT. It really sucked under 3,000RPM.
I love working on the TL, but really want a project car.
As far as the gears, did you take it to a 4.10-4.11 or higher then that? Would give some serious tq off the line, but no top end .
#88
QUOTE=Black_05_TL_6SP;11181717]Surfing in Jersey??? That car is so sweet! I really did grow up in the wrong era for car modding! I have spent some time working on my father-in-laws 65 Mustang, I did the work, he bought the parts! Really wanted to do more to it so I could learn more, but the mother-in-law cut off the funds for working on it!
I love working on the TL, but really want a project car.
As far as the gears, did you take it to a 4.10-4.11 or higher then that? Would give some serious tq off the line, but no top end .[/QUOTE]
Yeah, we were some of the first to surf in the area going back to about 1960/61. Seaside, Manasquan, Lavallette & Point Pleasant home of Jersey Mikes were all good spots. My mother @ 90+ still lives at the NJ Shore.
Great waves in early spring around April, but you needed a full wetsuit because the water was so cold & during hurricane season from Sept on when the water was a lot warmer.
I did not go to 4.11 because that would have required a different carrier instead of just a gear swap. Would have been something like 3:70 or 3:90.
A few 'projects' that turned out pretty good.
33 Ford built from all reproduction parts & a 81 280ZX T top that we cut the roof off & worked in a TR-8 soft top in 1982.
The Z went through High School & College with my 3 kids. Was sold just before I got the TL.
I love working on the TL, but really want a project car.
As far as the gears, did you take it to a 4.10-4.11 or higher then that? Would give some serious tq off the line, but no top end .[/QUOTE]
Yeah, we were some of the first to surf in the area going back to about 1960/61. Seaside, Manasquan, Lavallette & Point Pleasant home of Jersey Mikes were all good spots. My mother @ 90+ still lives at the NJ Shore.
Great waves in early spring around April, but you needed a full wetsuit because the water was so cold & during hurricane season from Sept on when the water was a lot warmer.
I did not go to 4.11 because that would have required a different carrier instead of just a gear swap. Would have been something like 3:70 or 3:90.
A few 'projects' that turned out pretty good.
33 Ford built from all reproduction parts & a 81 280ZX T top that we cut the roof off & worked in a TR-8 soft top in 1982.
The Z went through High School & College with my 3 kids. Was sold just before I got the TL.
#90
#91
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^^^that was funny...very funny.
very cool cars in your past and def respect the combined knowledge here. I feel better having a little more insight to all this. I def. won't be dumping the clutch ever because I don't see a point with a car like this since you'll just end up spinning front tire, or at least that's how it seems. So hopefully just quick shifts at high rpm's will be fine.
Nice to know dual mass is reserved for certain luxury cars.
very cool cars in your past and def respect the combined knowledge here. I feel better having a little more insight to all this. I def. won't be dumping the clutch ever because I don't see a point with a car like this since you'll just end up spinning front tire, or at least that's how it seems. So hopefully just quick shifts at high rpm's will be fine.
Nice to know dual mass is reserved for certain luxury cars.
#92
^^^that was funny...very funny.
very cool cars in your past and def respect the combined knowledge here. I feel better having a little more insight to all this. I def. won't be dumping the clutch ever because I don't see a point with a car like this since you'll just end up spinning front tire, or at least that's how it seems. So hopefully just quick shifts at high rpm's will be fine.
Nice to know dual mass is reserved for certain luxury cars.
very cool cars in your past and def respect the combined knowledge here. I feel better having a little more insight to all this. I def. won't be dumping the clutch ever because I don't see a point with a car like this since you'll just end up spinning front tire, or at least that's how it seems. So hopefully just quick shifts at high rpm's will be fine.
Nice to know dual mass is reserved for certain luxury cars.
#93
Put the new SC in last night. All I can say is its nice to have a real clutch back. Seems like the engagement lowered on the pedal too. Now I can have "responsible" fun with the car.
You don't have to, but take the air box out. Makes it a lot easier to bleed. If you take the battery and tray out put the GM oil in the tranny and the aluminum bushing in the shifters. It's real easy now with good access. Don't forget the short shifter!!
I did need to block the clutch fork from moving to bleed it.
Here is a HINT. Cut a 1x2 piece of wood 21" long and put it through the fender well against the fork and the then the backside of the front wheel and turn the wheel until it holds it in place. I would to this with the engine off. No science to 21" but that is where my thumb was when I determined how long the wood needed to be.
ML
You don't have to, but take the air box out. Makes it a lot easier to bleed. If you take the battery and tray out put the GM oil in the tranny and the aluminum bushing in the shifters. It's real easy now with good access. Don't forget the short shifter!!
I did need to block the clutch fork from moving to bleed it.
Here is a HINT. Cut a 1x2 piece of wood 21" long and put it through the fender well against the fork and the then the backside of the front wheel and turn the wheel until it holds it in place. I would to this with the engine off. No science to 21" but that is where my thumb was when I determined how long the wood needed to be.
ML
#94
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So glad you were as happy as me as soon as i took the thing out...this is how the car should have felt...now, instead of feeling like it was going to be a new challenge every time i drive...it's a new adventure every time i drive! lol...
i tried to explain the blocking of the fork earlier in the other thread but got questioned so i thought maybe i didn't need to do it...although i actually DID need to do it both times...only difference is i took the rim off and used a broom handle i cut. Did the trick!
i tried to explain the blocking of the fork earlier in the other thread but got questioned so i thought maybe i didn't need to do it...although i actually DID need to do it both times...only difference is i took the rim off and used a broom handle i cut. Did the trick!
#96
#102
deadgame29 said this mod should only be done "if you don't beat the car all the time". what does that mean? why shouldn't this mod be done if you beat on the car - not that i beat on my car - but i was just wondering....very hesitant to do this mod but at the same time hate how my 6mt drives hahah
#104
i honestly dont see how this mod will hurt the car at all.. its just how a regular clutch (in every other car) works. in fact, i would think that having a delay valve that holds engagement longer would cause more wear
#106
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The OP in the other thread Opel, is from NYC and seems very helpful. PM him and see if he'll give you a hand.
RJ...you know damned well you're not intimidated by doing mods yourself so get on with it!
The OP's original thread post basically stated that if you don't beat on your car...don't bother with this thread. Giving it some thought I figured it was worth a try. So I did it and felt an improvement in regular driving as well as hard shifting. About voiding the warranty...good lucky having a tech ever realize it ain't in your slave cylinder if the slave was ever thought to be the culprit for ANY failure of anything major.
In short, if anyone knew, probably...but no one ever will IMO so go for it. Trust me...I'm a prudent bitch when it comes to messing with Honda engineering...but this thing is pie and is worth it.
As previously stated...this is my opinion...I am not a Honda tech...just someone passing along information that has improved my driving experience with the TL.
RJ...you know damned well you're not intimidated by doing mods yourself so get on with it!
The OP's original thread post basically stated that if you don't beat on your car...don't bother with this thread. Giving it some thought I figured it was worth a try. So I did it and felt an improvement in regular driving as well as hard shifting. About voiding the warranty...good lucky having a tech ever realize it ain't in your slave cylinder if the slave was ever thought to be the culprit for ANY failure of anything major.
In short, if anyone knew, probably...but no one ever will IMO so go for it. Trust me...I'm a prudent bitch when it comes to messing with Honda engineering...but this thing is pie and is worth it.
As previously stated...this is my opinion...I am not a Honda tech...just someone passing along information that has improved my driving experience with the TL.
#108
I am deRICING one of these..
1:18 scale:
Trying to make it look like my cuz's old car.. then gonna give it to him for his bday..
#109
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Very cool!
BUT...I'm allergic to excuses! You a LIE!...lol.
Dude...this mod will take you a half hour...and you'll probably love it. Use the dremel idea for getting the ring out...hardest part is rebleeding it!
BUT...I'm allergic to excuses! You a LIE!...lol.
Dude...this mod will take you a half hour...and you'll probably love it. Use the dremel idea for getting the ring out...hardest part is rebleeding it!
#111
#114
FYI Its not a check valve A check valve is a mechanical device, a valve, which allows fluid (liquid or gas) to flow through it in only one direction.
If the valve does what he clams it does the its a Restrictor valve.
If the valve does what he clams it does the its a Restrictor valve.
#116
still like this mod rockstar?? I'm getting really annoyed with the shifting on my manual but this is my first manual so I don't have the sense of "this is not what a manual is supposed to feel" Well actually I do some days I can drive it good and smooth but some days I just suck its hard for me to get a consistent "feel"
#117
i must be missing something. i didnt read through the whoel thread the OP linked to, just the first page. how do you remove that part thats pictured? is that another thread? seems like half of the DIY is missing.
#119
there are pictures in the thread you just need to go threw it
#120
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Yeah man, still going strong and loving it. I don't remember what it feels like to have to worry about HOW I shifted and if it was going to be jerky from 1st to 2nd. I really don't...trust me, this is my 6th or 7th manual...without it is the way the car should feel normally. You will be that much better of a driver from being used to having to baby it, but you'll really actually enjoy 1st and 2nd being smooth instead of dreading it.
If you're not sure where this piece is located i think it best to have a pro/forum member give you a hand. Although this is something simple to do, it's only simple because I've already done it before.
J.
If you're not sure where this piece is located i think it best to have a pro/forum member give you a hand. Although this is something simple to do, it's only simple because I've already done it before.
J.