How does the transmission mount to the car?
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Being an Acha Bacha in
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From: Long Island, NY
How does the transmission mount to the car?
I'm forever chasing a clunk and severe handling issues. The dealer has changed man parts attempting to solve the problem under warrant to no avail. So I would like to know the following from the experts?
1. How does the tranny bolt to the car?
2. How many front subframe mounts and bushings does our TL have?
3. Do the front struts attach to the front subframe some how?
4. Can bad subframe mounts/bushings affect handling?
5. Can bad transmission mounts affect handling?
The way I understand it is the engine is coddled by the front subframe and mounted with front, side and rear engine mounts. The Lower Control Arms bolt to the subframe with the struts attached to it somehow. Also the front sway bar attaches to the front subframe as well. The tranny is obviously is connected to the engine but where are the three mounts that hold the tranny in place attach to?
1. How does the tranny bolt to the car?
2. How many front subframe mounts and bushings does our TL have?
3. Do the front struts attach to the front subframe some how?
4. Can bad subframe mounts/bushings affect handling?
5. Can bad transmission mounts affect handling?
The way I understand it is the engine is coddled by the front subframe and mounted with front, side and rear engine mounts. The Lower Control Arms bolt to the subframe with the struts attached to it somehow. Also the front sway bar attaches to the front subframe as well. The tranny is obviously is connected to the engine but where are the three mounts that hold the tranny in place attach to?
Last edited by LoveMyTL-S; May 30, 2012 at 11:01 AM.
I am not 100% sure, but it looks like 3 tranny mounts, over and above the 3 motor mounts. I am also looking to order these, and will toss this link out there for other more knowledgable people to confirm that the tranny bushings are possibly 15,16,17 in the diagram included in link. I am not sure as to what other parts should be replaced.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
^^As i know it this is correct.^^^
Have you checked the upper control arms, ball joints, strut forks, wheel bearings, etc? It's highly unlikely the subframe bolts would be loose because if they were loose, they'd would more than likely work their way out completely and a dealer tech would have to be a complete idiot to not notice that.
1. How does the tranny bolt to the car?
Yes, one mount on driver side
2. How many front subframe mounts and bushings does our TL have?
4, one per corner, with a couple brackets as well.
3. Do the front struts attach to the front subframe some how?
Well, they attach to the LCA's and the LCA's mount to the subframe
4. Can bad subframe mounts/bushings affect handling?
I don't think there are "bushings" per say, so probably not so much.
5. Can bad transmission mounts affect handling?
pretty unlikely, it looks to be pretty soft and wimpy
describe your problem more and heck, post some pics, maybe we'll see something that they didn't.
Have you checked the upper control arms, ball joints, strut forks, wheel bearings, etc? It's highly unlikely the subframe bolts would be loose because if they were loose, they'd would more than likely work their way out completely and a dealer tech would have to be a complete idiot to not notice that.
1. How does the tranny bolt to the car?
Yes, one mount on driver side
2. How many front subframe mounts and bushings does our TL have?
4, one per corner, with a couple brackets as well.
3. Do the front struts attach to the front subframe some how?
Well, they attach to the LCA's and the LCA's mount to the subframe
4. Can bad subframe mounts/bushings affect handling?
I don't think there are "bushings" per say, so probably not so much.
5. Can bad transmission mounts affect handling?
pretty unlikely, it looks to be pretty soft and wimpy
describe your problem more and heck, post some pics, maybe we'll see something that they didn't.
Funny...it just so happens I have a picture of a broken front right subframe mid-mount, this happened when I slid into a curb and bent my subframe 
The car is still driveable but I do notice handling issues because this mount is right above the LCA and the subframe now flexes with the suspension. I have since adjustment my alignment to compensate and my replacement part is waiting for me to pick up at the post office after work today, yay!
You should be able to see the condition of this mid mount by cranking the wheel to the left or right...and in case you are wondering, I had a body shop straighten my subframe after which the car drove a lot better but not like it should so I pulled off my wheel and discovered this broken mount.

The car is still driveable but I do notice handling issues because this mount is right above the LCA and the subframe now flexes with the suspension. I have since adjustment my alignment to compensate and my replacement part is waiting for me to pick up at the post office after work today, yay!
You should be able to see the condition of this mid mount by cranking the wheel to the left or right...and in case you are wondering, I had a body shop straighten my subframe after which the car drove a lot better but not like it should so I pulled off my wheel and discovered this broken mount.
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Thread Starter
Being an Acha Bacha in
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From: Long Island, NY
Funny...it just so happens I have a picture of a broken front right subframe mid-mount, this happened when I slid into a curb and bent my subframe 
The car is still driveable but I do notice handling issues because this mount is right above the LCA and the subframe now flexes with the suspension. I have since adjustment my alignment to compensate and my replacement part is waiting for me to pick up at the post office after work today, yay!
You should be able to see the condition of this mid mount by cranking the wheel to the left or right...and in case you are wondering, I had a body shop straighten my subframe after which the car drove a lot better but not like it should so I pulled off my wheel and discovered this broken mount.

The car is still driveable but I do notice handling issues because this mount is right above the LCA and the subframe now flexes with the suspension. I have since adjustment my alignment to compensate and my replacement part is waiting for me to pick up at the post office after work today, yay!
You should be able to see the condition of this mid mount by cranking the wheel to the left or right...and in case you are wondering, I had a body shop straighten my subframe after which the car drove a lot better but not like it should so I pulled off my wheel and discovered this broken mount.
Can you describe the handling issues?
Also I still don't get what structural component the transmission mounts to?
So far I have kept it under $800 but it still doesn't drive like it used to:
Re-bend Subframe = $500 (friend/body shop)
Refurbished OEM Rim (2004) = $100
New OEM TPMS = $30
Mount-Balance Wheel = $25
New OEM Upper Control Arm = $55
New Mid Mount = $35
Alignment = $0 (DIY)
Labour = $0 (DIY)
The only thing I am not 100% satisfied with is the re-bending of the subframe, as you can see by the pic the control arm support isn't exactly straight so my camber is off by a degree or two but I supposed it is a lot better than paying $5000!
The transmission sits on a couple of rubber blocks that secure to the frame of the car...I cant recall if it is the sub-frame or the chassis, if you take off the front left wheel and remove the plastic guarding you will be able to see what it sits on.
Re-bend Subframe = $500 (friend/body shop)
Refurbished OEM Rim (2004) = $100
New OEM TPMS = $30
Mount-Balance Wheel = $25
New OEM Upper Control Arm = $55
New Mid Mount = $35
Alignment = $0 (DIY)
Labour = $0 (DIY)
The only thing I am not 100% satisfied with is the re-bending of the subframe, as you can see by the pic the control arm support isn't exactly straight so my camber is off by a degree or two but I supposed it is a lot better than paying $5000!
The transmission sits on a couple of rubber blocks that secure to the frame of the car...I cant recall if it is the sub-frame or the chassis, if you take off the front left wheel and remove the plastic guarding you will be able to see what it sits on.
Thread Starter
Being an Acha Bacha in
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I know for a 100% fact my subframe is NOT bent. Im just a victim of a improper tow job that has obviously damaged something which is now causing a audible and palpable clunk on the drivers side floor board when going over small bumps. The car also feels bouncy as if shocks are worn and there is excessive body roll on turns (not as tight on the corners).
Dealer has replaced front and side motor mounts, both LCA, both upper control arms, inner & outer tie rod ends, rack and pinion and also front swaybar end links. The shocks are also brand new. Only thing really left is the
Rear motor mount
3 Tranny mounts and the Subframe mounts & bushings.
Dealer has replaced front and side motor mounts, both LCA, both upper control arms, inner & outer tie rod ends, rack and pinion and also front swaybar end links. The shocks are also brand new. Only thing really left is the
Rear motor mount
3 Tranny mounts and the Subframe mounts & bushings.
Last edited by Elegant TYPE S; Jun 4, 2012 at 12:57 AM.
Sorry to hear how much this has cost you...especially going to the stealership!
I read one story where the front subframe bolts were loose causing a clunk, they just needed to be tightened, I can only guess #23 in the below pic but this only shows two of them (I think there is a bolt for every one of those little holes down the middle of the sub-frame...approx 12 of them):

If your subframe is loose then it could be the cause of the poor handling since it supports your LCA's.
I read one story where the front subframe bolts were loose causing a clunk, they just needed to be tightened, I can only guess #23 in the below pic but this only shows two of them (I think there is a bolt for every one of those little holes down the middle of the sub-frame...approx 12 of them):

If your subframe is loose then it could be the cause of the poor handling since it supports your LCA's.
Last edited by JBONN; Jun 4, 2012 at 04:00 PM.
I am in the process of changing number 10/11 in that picture due to a broken mount.
The part was only about 25.00 from acuraoemparts.com with the acurazine discount.
I believe this is the culprit that causes my car to pull to the right no matter how many alignments I have done.
Do alignment - get the numbers in check.
Drive - pulls to the right
Do alignment - numbers back off, get them back in check
Drive - pulls to the right
Do alignment - numbers back off, get them back in check
Did this 5 or 6 times in one day.
Luckily my buddy works at a shop and it didn't cost me anything. We spend about 5 hours on the alignment rack that day.
Hoping to solve that problem.
The part was only about 25.00 from acuraoemparts.com with the acurazine discount.
I believe this is the culprit that causes my car to pull to the right no matter how many alignments I have done.
Do alignment - get the numbers in check.
Drive - pulls to the right
Do alignment - numbers back off, get them back in check
Drive - pulls to the right
Do alignment - numbers back off, get them back in check
Did this 5 or 6 times in one day.
Luckily my buddy works at a shop and it didn't cost me anything. We spend about 5 hours on the alignment rack that day.
Hoping to solve that problem.
Another thread related to a clunk sound part number 23.
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/annoying-clunk-sound-solved-636586/
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/annoying-clunk-sound-solved-636586/
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Elegant, bro I apologize for not proving the subframe info to you...my project has been delayed due to some personal reasons....
As soon, as I get/find more info, I will PM it to you (or post up here)
As soon, as I get/find more info, I will PM it to you (or post up here)
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