How do you take off in a 5A TL?
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Does anyone know how you can get the car get the engine revved high enough on take of that the car will really move? There are two reasons I'm asking. First I'm asking this is I got new tires the other night and I wanted to destroy my turanzas and couldn't (several bad experiences in them). Also, I autocrossed my old car and to do a good take off in it you double peddled with the tak at 3000 rpms. The tires would screech, but you wouldn't go into a "burnout". You don't want that. If you double peddle the tl it won't go about 2000 rmps and you get nothing. If you just flat out floor it, the tires will squeak a little, but you're still not getting nearly enough power to really go. Even one of the car magazines said that you had to do a "mid" to "high" rmp launch to get the accel they talk about. I'd hate to do a neutral drop in it. I like my tranny. Is there something else you have to do to get it revved up?
*2005
**5 speed automatic
*2005
**5 speed automatic
#2
A J35A8 EG civic is in
haha, I remember one time I went to the car wash. On my way driving out I took off the VSA and floored it. I had wheelspin for about 15 seconds and a lottttttttttttttttttttt of tire smoke. It was one of those one time things I wanted to try out. I havent done it again, but im guessin it happens so easily because of the soap that runs off onto the street from the carwash.
#3
'10 Hyundai Genesis Coupe
You could use bleach, lol.
I'm assuming when you say "double petal" you mean you are brake launching the car, which helps, but I'd suggest break launching it with the parking break up get the car to spin and bit and keep the rpms up, then put the brake down. You should see smoke.
I'm assuming when you say "double petal" you mean you are brake launching the car, which helps, but I'd suggest break launching it with the parking break up get the car to spin and bit and keep the rpms up, then put the brake down. You should see smoke.
#4
Senior Moderator
The ECU will fight you on a brake rev start.
I get the best results starting in L and just nailing it. Or you could slightly brake rev with the hand brake and turn the VSA off.
The VSA, when it detects a wheel spinning, will brake that wheel. Not conducive to max acceleration.
In L, the tranny will hold first gear longer than in SS. At red line in first you can then move it to SS to hold 2nd, 3rd, etc.
In SS mode, you cannot hold the car in first unless you have a 2007 TL-S. I have heard here that you are able to hold that because it has a different engine and transmission (from the RL).
I get the best results starting in L and just nailing it. Or you could slightly brake rev with the hand brake and turn the VSA off.
The VSA, when it detects a wheel spinning, will brake that wheel. Not conducive to max acceleration.
In L, the tranny will hold first gear longer than in SS. At red line in first you can then move it to SS to hold 2nd, 3rd, etc.
In SS mode, you cannot hold the car in first unless you have a 2007 TL-S. I have heard here that you are able to hold that because it has a different engine and transmission (from the RL).
#5
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I've tried the parking brake lever method, and it workd for a little bit, but then the traction control takes over. The 07 TL-S has the trans that you can manually downshift by yourself without having to go to L. That sucks! Too scary going from L to SS, and pray you don't mis-shift to D.
#6
A J35A8 EG civic is in
Originally Posted by Xpditor
The ECU will fight you on a brake rev start.
I get the best results starting in L and just nailing it. Or you could slightly brake rev with the hand brake and turn the VSA off.
The VSA, when it detects a wheel spinning, will brake that wheel. Not conducive to max acceleration.
In L, the tranny will hold first gear longer than in SS. At red line in first you can then move it to SS to hold 2nd, 3rd, etc.
In SS mode, you cannot hold the car in first unless you have a 2007 TL-S. I have heard here that you are able to hold that because it has a different engine and transmission (from the RL).
I get the best results starting in L and just nailing it. Or you could slightly brake rev with the hand brake and turn the VSA off.
The VSA, when it detects a wheel spinning, will brake that wheel. Not conducive to max acceleration.
In L, the tranny will hold first gear longer than in SS. At red line in first you can then move it to SS to hold 2nd, 3rd, etc.
In SS mode, you cannot hold the car in first unless you have a 2007 TL-S. I have heard here that you are able to hold that because it has a different engine and transmission (from the RL).
Oh and BTW you do know that you can take the traction control off right?
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#8
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The 5AT doesn't have an LSD (limited slip differential).
You MUST go through D to get from L to SS. It won't hurt anything and, if you have it floored, it won't upshift to 3rd.... only 2nd.... until you hit redline or until you let off the gas.
You have plenty of time to go from L to SS through D. Like about 5.9 seconds.
You MUST go through D to get from L to SS. It won't hurt anything and, if you have it floored, it won't upshift to 3rd.... only 2nd.... until you hit redline or until you let off the gas.
You have plenty of time to go from L to SS through D. Like about 5.9 seconds.
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#9
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Thanks for the answers. I'll try that park to L thing over the weekend and see how it goes.
Not sure what that vsa button does. Shutting it off definitely didn't let the wheels go, but if you're driving on a couple inches of snow and you shut it off, it makes a big difference.
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#10
Originally Posted by Xpditor
The ECU will fight you on a brake rev start.
I get the best results starting in L and just nailing it. Or you could slightly brake rev with the hand brake and turn the VSA off.
The VSA, when it detects a wheel spinning, will brake that wheel. Not conducive to max acceleration.
In L, the tranny will hold first gear longer than in SS. At red line in first you can then move it to SS to hold 2nd, 3rd, etc.
In SS mode, you cannot hold the car in first unless you have a 2007 TL-S. I have heard here that you are able to hold that because it has a different engine and transmission (from the RL).
I get the best results starting in L and just nailing it. Or you could slightly brake rev with the hand brake and turn the VSA off.
The VSA, when it detects a wheel spinning, will brake that wheel. Not conducive to max acceleration.
In L, the tranny will hold first gear longer than in SS. At red line in first you can then move it to SS to hold 2nd, 3rd, etc.
In SS mode, you cannot hold the car in first unless you have a 2007 TL-S. I have heard here that you are able to hold that because it has a different engine and transmission (from the RL).
#11
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i usually just turn VSA off and sport-shift from a dig...sometimes i'll start in L, though...i've got the hang of shifting from L to SS...you have to kinda push forward and to the left at the same time to skip D and get to SS...except i've noticed after getting my RPMs up in L and then shifting to SS the car will go from 2nd to 3rd automatically for me...which means i have to downshift to get back into 2nd and that kills my take-off...
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#15
A J35A8 EG civic is in
Originally Posted by dragonlord
Not on the 04-06's. The only thing you can turn off is the VSA, which is not traction control.
#16
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So I tried it a couple times over the weekend and it looks like the only way to do it is with the ebrake or reving it up in neutral then throwing it into L. Tranny definitely didn't care for the neutral to L thing. Does anyone know what rimz means by a "dig"? Also, it won't let you shift out of park with the rpms up. What you guys said about burnouts. When I had my snow tires on it would do them, because they didn't have the grip. But with normal tires it won't. Who knows what the ecu's thinking, lol.
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Originally Posted by jtkoo7
So I tried it a couple times over the weekend and it looks like the only way to do it is with the ebrake or reving it up in neutral then throwing it into L. Tranny definitely didn't care for the neutral to L thing. Does anyone know what rimz means by a "dig"? Also, it won't let you shift out of park with the rpms up. What you guys said about burnouts. When I had my snow tires on it would do them, because they didn't have the grip. But with normal tires it won't. Who knows what the ecu's thinking, lol.
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#19
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Originally Posted by jtkoo7
So I tried it a couple times over the weekend and it looks like the only way to do it is with the ebrake or reving it up in neutral then throwing it into L. Tranny definitely didn't care for the neutral to L thing. Does anyone know what rimz means by a "dig"? Also, it won't let you shift out of park with the rpms up. What you guys said about burnouts. When I had my snow tires on it would do them, because they didn't have the grip. But with normal tires it won't. Who knows what the ecu's thinking, lol.
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You can ruin the tranny by revving in N or P and dropping it into gear. Unless you have $5,000 or so for a new tranny, I would not do that.
The ECU records things that you do to the car and that info is retrievable at the dealership. I'm not sure of the detail, but I know it does it. Such things as RPM, temperatures, speeds, etc.
#21
All the world's a stage
Originally Posted by JJaber06
So does anyone know if going from "L" to "D" or sport shift mode is bad for the tranny?
Now, N to D or R to D is a completely different story and a completely different type of stress you're putting on the transmission.
#22
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Originally Posted by JJaber06
So does anyone know if going from "L" to "D" or sport shift mode is bad for the tranny?
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The ECU won't let you do most harmful things to the tranny. It protects itself.
#24
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When VSA detects wheel spin, it reduces throttle. so you have to turn it off.
If you use brake and throttle together, I think the ECU thinks you made a mistake and cuts back the throttle. For those folks like myself who have fat feet and accidently push both pedals at the same time while braking.
If you use brake and throttle together, I think the ECU thinks you made a mistake and cuts back the throttle. For those folks like myself who have fat feet and accidently push both pedals at the same time while braking.
#26
04 A-TL 6MT SSM/E N/Navi
Originally Posted by jtkoo7
Does anyone know how you can get the car get the engine revved high enough on take of that the car will really move? There are two reasons I'm asking. First I'm asking this is I got new tires the other night and I wanted to destroy my turanzas and couldn't (several bad experiences in them). Also, I autocrossed my old car and to do a good take off in it you double peddled with the tak at 3000 rpms. The tires would screech, but you wouldn't go into a "burnout". You don't want that. If you double peddle the tl it won't go about 2000 rmps and you get nothing. If you just flat out floor it, the tires will squeak a little, but you're still not getting nearly enough power to really go. Even one of the car magazines said that you had to do a "mid" to "high" rmp launch to get the accel they talk about. I'd hate to do a neutral drop in it. I like my tranny. Is there something else you have to do to get it revved up?
*2005
**5 speed automatic
*2005
**5 speed automatic
LOL
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#32
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Originally Posted by bluenose
Looks like it might be time to raise the age limit to subscribe to this forum!
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#35
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I was just reading the Acura shop manual yesterday- the transmission section.
It said the the purpose of "L" was to gear the car down, slow it down. It also mentioned that it would start in first gear and shift automatically to second depending on car speed (revs?).
First is first. There is no more or less power or torque no matter where the gear selector is.
It has been my observation that "L" holds first gear longer than SS does. I believe it holds it all the way to red line. That doesn't happen in SS.
I don't recommend doing this often. There is a reason they make it shift to 2nd early. My theory is that this was the first answer to a sporadic problem of 2nd gear lubrication issues which have since been corrected half way through the 2004 model year (see the 3G TL Garage sticky thread).
I'm also not sure, other than turning off the VSA, that any of these "tricks" will do much to improve the acceleration you get from just punching it in "D".
Acura/Honda has a huge engineering and R&D staff both here and in Japan (where the tranny is made). There is also a PCM that controls every aspect of the TL including the tranny. Acceleration sells cars. There's an old saying in the business: "Race on Sunday; Sell on Monday."
IOW, the TL should know what it needs to do to haul ass and should be able to do it even when driven by folks who, um, lack experience and skills?
It said the the purpose of "L" was to gear the car down, slow it down. It also mentioned that it would start in first gear and shift automatically to second depending on car speed (revs?).
First is first. There is no more or less power or torque no matter where the gear selector is.
It has been my observation that "L" holds first gear longer than SS does. I believe it holds it all the way to red line. That doesn't happen in SS.
I don't recommend doing this often. There is a reason they make it shift to 2nd early. My theory is that this was the first answer to a sporadic problem of 2nd gear lubrication issues which have since been corrected half way through the 2004 model year (see the 3G TL Garage sticky thread).
I'm also not sure, other than turning off the VSA, that any of these "tricks" will do much to improve the acceleration you get from just punching it in "D".
Acura/Honda has a huge engineering and R&D staff both here and in Japan (where the tranny is made). There is also a PCM that controls every aspect of the TL including the tranny. Acceleration sells cars. There's an old saying in the business: "Race on Sunday; Sell on Monday."
IOW, the TL should know what it needs to do to haul ass and should be able to do it even when driven by folks who, um, lack experience and skills?
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#36
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All L does is forces the car into 1st gear. Normally the car will start out in 2nd gear and you won't get nearly the excel you would by having it in first. Also, if you really want to get the most out of your car. Put the windows up and shut off the air, vsa and anything else electrical. It takes like 10 to 20 hp to run the air. Shutting off the ac will supposedly take off a couple tenths of a second. Putting the windows up cuts down on drag.
#38
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from experience, i feel that from a stop and starting in L doesn't improve acceleration or take-off...in fact, last time i tried it, i felt it actually slowed down my acceleration as opposed to starting in SS and letting it shift itself from 1st to 2nd...
and yes, L does hold 1st gear all the way to the redline...
and yes, L does hold 1st gear all the way to the redline...
#39
Senior Moderator
Size matters
Originally Posted by jtkoo7
All L does is forces the car into 1st gear. Normally the car will start out in 2nd gear and you won't get nearly the excel you would by having it in first. Also, if you really want to get the most out of your car. Put the windows up and shut off the air, vsa and anything else electrical. It takes like 10 to 20 hp to run the air. Shutting off the ac will supposedly take off a couple tenths of a second. Putting the windows up cuts down on drag.
I agree with the rest of your post. Also, if you're that serious about things, have a nearly empty gas tank. A full tank of gas weighs 102.54 lbs. You can eliminate nearly 100 pounds there by running on "E" and another 2-300 by dropping off your fat girl friend
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For a high performance car in the 10-12 lbs/HP catagory, that's like picking up 8-10 HP for every 100 lbs. you can shuck. Just think: some skinny drivers weigh 200 lbs less than some big ones.
#40
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by jtkoo7
What was going on with the transmission lubrication?