I've read these write ups and it seems pretty straight forward...
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=diy+brakes
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=diy+brakes

But, I've read a few problems and don't want to be stranded all day at home... with the kids! I've installled A-spec suspensions, I've changed out the motor mounts and such, just never done the brakes before. I've got my brakemotive calipers and brakes sitting in the garage so I'm getting a little itchy to do it Also, I want to paint the calipers black while I have them removed.

On a scale 1-10, what do you give this job? How much time would you give yourself to do this? Thanks for the advice...

Also, is there a specific parts list including lube, degreaser, brake fluid, etc... I want to get everything before I tear down the car.

 

I just completed this on an 2004 base. Get the shop manual its layed out very well and will give you torque specs. Also in addition to what you've menteioned for supplies, i would have a breaker bar ready for the bolts that mount the calibers.

If you've installed a suspension, I think you can handle this easily.

 

The brakes (rotors and pads) are rather easy IMO. But I was prepped from a '99 Accord which uses a similar design. I've never changed calipers so not sure there. I'm guessing it wouldn't be too bad. Just removing the brake lines, reattaching to new rotors at correct torques, bleeding the lines a bit to remove air, etc.

 

I'd say be prepared for the Rotor Phillips screw. I use this method shown below. Everything else is pretty straight forward if you follow those two links you posted.

Brake fluid, I use some Valvoline DOT3/4 that you can get at any parts store. You might want to use something like ATE Superblue, 1L is enough to flush the whole system but I'd get 2L just in case.
Lube, Permatex Disc Brake Lube for the back of the pads and 3M Silicone Paste for the slides.
Grab some rags and brake parts cleaner, a can or two will do. I hate making a mess.

 

The actual job itself is relatively easy. What's not easy is running into one of the pitfalls, the biggest IMO being the dreaded caliper bolt threading issue. Thankfully I didn't have that issue and a good bit and a drill took out the 2 frozen phillips screws in short order

 

if you just swap the caliper and rotor then I would say it around 4 ish on the scale 1-10, the part you have to pay attention is bleeding which you need a second person or you can buy the bleeder kit so you can get the job done by yourself. GL with the project, I am on the same boat I am in process replacing rotor and pad on my TL-S and replacing rotor, pads and rebuild the caliper on my Accord.

 

I used a drill to take the heads off the rotor screws. Mechanically its not a hard job. Worst part is the frozen screws on the rotors and the bolts holding the clipers on. They can be tough.

 

Difficulty if everything goes well (no stuck bolts or screws), a 4 with 1 being the easiest.

Give yourself around 3 hours i'd say for your first time. Start early saturday morning and you should be done before noon.

 

It's pretty simple. I would give yourself a full afternoon to do it.

A few tips on bleeding:
- If you have a good buddy/helper pumping the brakes, it makes it much easier.

-A dedicated brake bleeder hose with a 1 way check valve can be had at many auto stores for around $5. This pretty much prevents bubbles from being sucked back into the caliper by accident, which is great, especially if you're doing it for the first time.

 

fairly simple. The only part that caught me up for a min was the rear rotors. there is a pin wheel in the bottom you will have to turn in order to release the pads on the drum brakes. I had a little trouble finding the pin wheel. I did not waste time with the screws in the rotors. I just drilled them out.

 

Like most of what everybody has already said, it's relatively easy . For the Rotor screws, I just an hand impact driver to get the screws off. And taking the brake calipers isn't hard either. Just undo the two bolts that's holding it into place along with undoing the brake line/bolt and it will come right off. To push the caliper back in, I just used a C clamp. GL & have fun.

 

Right on . OP when you go to remove your rotors, you will see this rubber plug with an flat head screwdriver indent on it. (on the rears) Simply pop it off and it'll give you access to what they call the "Star adjuster wheel". You can adjust it with a flat head screw driver, IIRC I used a flat head and an flash light to see and pushed the wheel up. And it loosen the drum brakes for the E brake enough to where the rotors were no longer sticking onto them and they came right off.

 

I will try to do a DIY later even there are couple of them already.

 

Spray your caliper bolts with penetrating oil (stay away from WD-40, a lubricant is not the same thing) like PB Blaster 15 minutes before attempting to remove them or overnight if possible and your wrist will thank you the rest of the day.

Other than that it's a cake job honestly.

 

The main thing that stops me is I don't have a helper to bleed.

 

^^^you don't need a helper if you got this kit

 

Crap, I just realized that I said I was replaces pads and calipers... What I meant was pads and rotors. I didn't see any bleeding instructions with replacing rotors and pads. Do I still have to bleed?

 

If you're only doing pads and rotors you don't need to bleed the brakes.

 

Woohoo... That cuts my parts list in half That was one of the steps that I was researching to make sure I didn't screw up. Gotta love this forum.

 

Installed my Brakemotive kit 2 weekends ago and took me and Anil (swoosh) about 4 out of the 6 hours that we worked on my car. The hardest part was getting the bolts loose even after soaking them in PB Blaster and the use of some air tools. In the end, a socket wrench, the right socket, and a breaker bar did the job. Use leverage, it'll save you time!

 

1) Leverage is your friend. Don't wast time with air tools - a BAP is all you need.
2) Don't bother trying to remove the screws retaining the rotors - drill them out
3) The fronts are a joke, so start on the rears. I did the fronts in 47 minutes.
4) The rear rotors, depending on the condition of your start adjuster can take hours if you run in to a situation like mine where they are bound by rust.

REAR ROTORS, FOR BEGINNERS
1) Pop off the little rubber boot and poke a flashlight in there. It's impossibly small to see, but look for a spiked wheel.
2) Chock the front wheels, release the e-brake.
3) No one ever really details this. You have two options, now. You can push from the bottom, or the top. Push the wheel TOWARDS THE CAR from the TOP. Keep going for awhile. Whack the rotor using a rubber mallet to drive off the rotor. You'll know you've retracted the shoe enough if the rotor is sliding off. If not, the shoe will continue to grab and you'll look to be pulling to whole thing off. Stop. Hammer the rotor back on, the continue working the star.
4) Once the new rotor is off, you're going to want to adjust the shoe OUT by turning the opposite direction - don't worry, you'll see how it extends now. What I personally do is trial and error - extend the shoe, then fit the new rotor. I continue to do this just until the rotor can't slide on. Once you've reached this point, remove the rotor, and retract 3 spins. Place the new rotor on, and pull the ebrake. It should grab. If not, adjust again. Finally, release the e-brake.
5) To measure clearance, use the old rotor to hold the new rotor flush against the drum, hold firmly, and rotate - you should not hear any contact with the drum.

I've detailed this because I had a BEAR of a time, siezed spindle excluded, that took HOURS to do. Using this method is quick, stress-reducing, and IMHO damn near fool proof. If you need my #, shoot me a PM and I can help via phone - rears suck.

 

ok anyone wana work with me on my brakemotive rotor and pads install ?

 

Those damn rotor screws.... try turning, spray, hammer, wait, repeat.

 

^^^^get an impact screw driver at Sear they are your best bet to get that stubborn screw.

 

I might be fooked... I'm in the process of doing the front rotors and pads, trying to loosen up the 3 bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket on. I think the 6 bolts are broken (3 bolts on each side broken with 2 wrenches) but it is a bear to back them out. I've been using a breaker bar on each bolt, and each 1/8 of a turn, and the first turn is just as hard as the 20th turn. It doesn't feel like it's loosening at all which tells me it's just spinning/turning in the caliper bracket. I've already stripped one of the heads (pissed me off) and everything is soaked it in PB blaster so... WTF? I have a feeling I'll be buying new front calipers because of possibility that these bolts are cross threaded, if I ever get these front calipers off.

I should have stuck with the old concept, if it aint broken... don't upgrade it

 

Heads up... Finally got the bolts off, leave the 2nd/middle bolt alone, (unless you're replacing the caliper and bleeding). A lot of PB and some "leverage" on the 1st and 3rd bolts and you're golden.

Note, this is for an automatic, not manual or type s...

 

The rotor screws are a PITA.

IDK why but I didnt have any issues with them after I used a impact screw driver (its basically a screwdriver with an end you can bang with a hammer)

I hit them each twice and they came out no problem.

AFter that, it was cake. One of the few jobs I did on my car that didn't have any hangups. which is rare, considering a damn RSB swap took me like 5 hours.

BTW: I'm sure you did, but if you didn't, make sure you replace the rotor screws with new ones. I got them at the dealer for like 2 bucks for all of them.

 

Finally finished up and I'm in the bedding process. I forgot I had air tools so I took my air hammer with the pointed tip to those rotor screws and 5 seconds later they came out (I should have use the air hammer from the beginning). Everything is fine and I'm sure the brakes and rotors will really kick in with time.

Thanks DeathMetal, couldn't have done it without you. If you're having trouble with the rears, follow DM's steps to a T and you'll have no problems.

Now time to paint the calipers and swap out the brake fluid. I know I should have done it when I had the brake and rotors off but I don't mind jacking the car up one more time

Thanks everyone who helped out...

 

I'm happy to hear that you got everything on buddy.

 

Glad to hear everything work out! Hit me up when you're ready to flush the system or you have any questions about tools/fluids needed.

Congrats again, dude...I know many people paint a very rosy picture on this forum, but I have heard far more horror stories IRL than what this forum may paint. Glad I could help.