How did you remove your stock J-pipe? (Rusty bolts)
#1
How did you remove your stock J-pipe? (Rusty bolts)
I will be embarking on the journey of removing my stock j-pipe on Wednesday and upon looking under my car yesterday, it does not look like it will be an easy task at all. The bolts on the third cat look one with the nuts and cat. I was thinking of using a torch to heat them up, any problem with this?
I have been periodically dousing them in PB blaster to try to break down some of the rust before I make an attempt at breaking them loose.
I have been periodically dousing them in PB blaster to try to break down some of the rust before I make an attempt at breaking them loose.
#7
Suzuka Master
that thing look even nastier than my 00 Accord, I guess the previous owner didn't take a good car of the car.
Trending Topics
The following 3 users liked this post by McCollins23:
#20
beat as much of the rust off as you can from the nuts. use a good pair of channel locks instead of a normal wrench or impact. a big long pair will give you more leverage. If that doesnt work take it to a shop. $60 bucks at a mom and pop muffler shop is my guess.
#24
I've removed worse. It takes as much heat as you can get, a big hammer, and something like this...
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-b...p-00952160000P
Or, just grind the things off. It's not too bad to get in there. Remove the heat shield and go to town.
Are the ones on the engine any better? The ones on the 3rd cat look potentially removable without grinding.
The studs are not pressed in, they are threaded. They're M10x1.25. However, grinding the bolts off and assuming you can get the studs out might not be the best route. I'd definitely pick up a bolt out set, then you don't need clean bolts and you should be able to get them to turn. Hammer them on, hit it with an impact, and see where it goes.
Regardless, that does not look like a fun project. I did my J pipe over the weekend, and even with the hardware surprisingly clean, it was no fun.
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-b...p-00952160000P
Or, just grind the things off. It's not too bad to get in there. Remove the heat shield and go to town.
Are the ones on the engine any better? The ones on the 3rd cat look potentially removable without grinding.
The studs are not pressed in, they are threaded. They're M10x1.25. However, grinding the bolts off and assuming you can get the studs out might not be the best route. I'd definitely pick up a bolt out set, then you don't need clean bolts and you should be able to get them to turn. Hammer them on, hit it with an impact, and see where it goes.
Regardless, that does not look like a fun project. I did my J pipe over the weekend, and even with the hardware surprisingly clean, it was no fun.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 07-30-2012 at 09:53 PM. Reason: Merged Posts.
#25
Team Owner
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City, MO (Overland Park, KS)
Posts: 36,545
Received 6,470 Likes
on
5,162 Posts
JJH,
Shoeface just did this-you might PM him about it.
Shoeface just did this-you might PM him about it.
#26
I've removed worse. It takes as much heat as you can get, a big hammer, and something like this...
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-b...p-00952160000P
Or, just grind the things off. It's not too bad to get in there. Remove the heat shield and go to town.
Are the ones on the engine any better? The ones on the 3rd cat look potentially removable without grinding.
The studs are not pressed in, they are threaded. They're M10x1.25. However, grinding the bolts off and assuming you can get the studs out might not be the best route. I'd definitely pick up a bolt out set, then you don't need clean bolts and you should be able to get them to turn. Hammer them on, hit it with an impact, and see where it goes.
Regardless, that does not look like a fun project. I did my J pipe over the weekend, and even with the hardware surprisingly clean, it was no fun.
http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-b...p-00952160000P
Or, just grind the things off. It's not too bad to get in there. Remove the heat shield and go to town.
Are the ones on the engine any better? The ones on the 3rd cat look potentially removable without grinding.
The studs are not pressed in, they are threaded. They're M10x1.25. However, grinding the bolts off and assuming you can get the studs out might not be the best route. I'd definitely pick up a bolt out set, then you don't need clean bolts and you should be able to get them to turn. Hammer them on, hit it with an impact, and see where it goes.
Regardless, that does not look like a fun project. I did my J pipe over the weekend, and even with the hardware surprisingly clean, it was no fun.
From the looks of the diagram, they are pressed into the flange that is welded onto the exhaust pipe.
#27
Drifting
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Age: 43
Posts: 3,490
Received 853 Likes
on
606 Posts
Wowzers. That's some serious rust. I had pretty bad rust and ended up cutting off the nuts with a dremel and a steel bit. It worked pretty well. Retained the integrity of the bolts that way. But mine wasn't that bad. Even if you cut the nuts you've got the ends of the bolts that have to be dealt with to get the new nuts on. I'm betting that those might clean up enough to get the new ones on though. May the force be with you!
#28
Wowzers. That's some serious rust. I had pretty bad rust and ended up cutting off the nuts with a dremel and a steel bit. It worked pretty well. Retained the integrity of the bolts that way. But mine wasn't that bad. Even if you cut the nuts you've got the ends of the bolts that have to be dealt with to get the new nuts on. I'm betting that those might clean up enough to get the new ones on though. May the force be with you!
#29
Safety Car
How are the ones at the top of the j-pipe? You might just want to remove the j-pipe AND exhaust in one piece. It will give you more room to work on it(since it's off the car), or just take the whole thing to a shop like someone suggested and let them cut it.
#31
Race Director
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: South Florida
Age: 31
Posts: 18,278
Received 3,824 Likes
on
2,847 Posts
#32
Safety Car
which ones? The ones at the top of the j-pipe, or the ones you took a picture of?
If the latter, I would say they cant. Once removed you will have to install another nut/bolt setup if you want to use that exhaust. Put on new j-pipe AND exhaust=crisis averted..
If the latter, I would say they cant. Once removed you will have to install another nut/bolt setup if you want to use that exhaust. Put on new j-pipe AND exhaust=crisis averted..
The following users liked this post:
Majofo (07-31-2012)
#34
I have a hardware kit coming with the Jpipe, does this not avert my crisis? If the bolts are pressed into the 3rd cat and go through the flange on the stock exhaust, I should be able to cut off the bolts in between the two flanges and than try to get the bolts out of the holes on the exhaust flange.
#35
Race Director
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: South Florida
Age: 31
Posts: 18,278
Received 3,824 Likes
on
2,847 Posts
You're completely missing the point. If you would use the search function, you wouldn't have 80 threads created within 7 months. USE THE SEARCH BAR.
Most of my posts are in threads like 3G Ramblings, my good friends on here or my own thread.
Most of my posts are in threads like 3G Ramblings, my good friends on here or my own thread.
The following users liked this post:
McCollins23 (07-30-2012)
#36
Safety Car
I meant if you add a new exhaust AND new j-pipe problem solved.
However, if you are going to use your old exhaust, yes, you should be able to cut off the bolts in between the two flanges and scrap them. I dont remember if the bolts were pressed into the cat or the exhaust, but if they are, once you cut/drill them out, you just need to add 3 nut/bolt setups.
Hope that makes sense. Basically,once everything is cut off, line up the 3 holes from the two pieces and install the new nuts/bolts.
However, if you are going to use your old exhaust, yes, you should be able to cut off the bolts in between the two flanges and scrap them. I dont remember if the bolts were pressed into the cat or the exhaust, but if they are, once you cut/drill them out, you just need to add 3 nut/bolt setups.
Hope that makes sense. Basically,once everything is cut off, line up the 3 holes from the two pieces and install the new nuts/bolts.
#37
I'm not missing the point. I guess that on a forum for a car that has been out for 8 years every single question should just be archived and there should be no need for any new threads whatsoever! Right? It's just one giant encyclopedia.
Just chill out, this is the third time you have posted in one of my threads in this same context. I did search, in fact, I'm very well versed on "thoroughly" searching a forum. Do you know what search engines operators are? Try this, go to Google and put this exactly:
site:tl.acurazine.com jpipe rusty bolts
or
site:tl.acurazine.com 3rd cat rusty bolts
etc, etc.
I ALWAYS search before I create a thread. If the information that I found does not suit me, I create a new thread.
Friends?
Seriously though, I'm just trying to plan my best course of action at these bolts to get them off. The last two days have been a rust-f***ed mess for me between these bolts and my bumper.
#38
I meant if you add a new exhaust AND new j-pipe problem solved.
However, if you are going to use your old exhaust, yes, you should be able to cut off the bolts in between the two flanges and scrap them. I dont remember if the bolts were pressed into the cat or the exhaust, but if they are, once you cut/drill them out, you just need to add 3 nut/bolt setups.
Hope that makes sense. Basically,once everything is cut off, line up the 3 holes from the two pieces and install the new nuts/bolts.
However, if you are going to use your old exhaust, yes, you should be able to cut off the bolts in between the two flanges and scrap them. I dont remember if the bolts were pressed into the cat or the exhaust, but if they are, once you cut/drill them out, you just need to add 3 nut/bolt setups.
Hope that makes sense. Basically,once everything is cut off, line up the 3 holes from the two pieces and install the new nuts/bolts.
#39
Safety Car
Easy fix. Take it to an exhaust shop. They can just cut out those sections and replace them with custom piping.
The following 4 users liked this post by TheChamp531: