SRT-11

OK so this is the 5th or 6th pair of headlights I've painted in my history of cars, and also has been the most painful. Getting that bumper off was a true sonovabitch and getting the headlights out was also a real sonofabitch too.

well the biggest treat is that the paint won't stick to the chrome pieces, even with adhesion promoter! It looks terrible. I tried putting it on thick thinking it'd fix it but it made it worse. I used dupli color paint adhesion promoter (which just beaded up) and then dupli color trim paint (semi-flat black) both of which have worked like a champ in the past. The paint worked a-ok on the part that wasn't chrome that I painted (the dark grey housing)

Someone help! I guess I have to sandblast the parts but I can't drive the car until I figure out how to paint this mess.

Thanks!

HONgDA

iTrader: (1)

Did you lightly sand down the chrome before applying the promoter?

Aman

Pics? hope everything works out.

SRT-11

i didn't sand the chrome, but it beaded up everywhere, on 3 of the 4 chrome pieces. really strange. and the temp/humidity out seems good, it was like 70 degrees and moderate to low humidity when I painted...

what's the easiest way to strip the paint off so I can repaint?

SRT-11

since all threads are worfless wifout pix, here you go!

leedogg

ahh another all black headlight. good luck getting that to work.

Schulminator

iTrader: (2)

You should always use scotch brite pad (or sand paper) before painting a smooth surface. I would try and get as much paint as possible off with pad and repaint. I also use a heat gun on "low setting" to help it dry.

I just painted mine and no probs... Good luck with the repair..

PS..now the bumper should only take you about 15min to get off now...

timmahh

indeed.. shiney smooth plastic = nothing to for the paint to adhere/bond with; even if you use promoter, you're still spraying onto a slick surface

Sand it down, then try again..

rockyfeller

iTrader: (6)

Paint will always give you problems on a smooth non-porous surface. That adhesion promotor is SUPPOSED to help with your specific application without the need of sanding. I tried it too and I found it helps minimally.

I had problems like yours with dupli-color high temp. It wasn't going on even. Looking at yours it looked much like mine as well. I think you are going too light. I say go a bit heavier with your coats (without running!) and eventually the paint will start to take on a sheen. The paint droplets need to some together and form a uniform layer. Don't underdo or overdo it. Mine didn't come out perfectly either. I used gloss paint and the defects are more apparent. The advantage of using flat paint is the defects are camouflaged. If you really screw up at the end, just take some 200 and 400 grit sandpaper and start over again. It's worth spending your time to get it as beautiful as possible.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

first off the duplicolor adhesion promoter is garbage on chrome trim. trust me been there done that. you need to scuff it up first before your paint it. But that you have this problem I can give you one of 2 options.

1. you can lightly scuff it up now with steel wool to blend it all in so it's smooth again then prime it with filler primer, again spray light coats just as if the mist of paint is falling on the piece. then you should use the duplicolor high heat black paint. I think you can get either 500 or 1200 degree, trust me it gives a good satin finish. If you want to clear coat it then by all means do so. and you should be ok.

2. you can try the brush on version of aircraft remover (pep boys, strauss) apply a light coat to remove the paint,. wash it off after a couple of minutes. MIND YOU I NEVER TRIED THIS MYSELF ON PLASTIC SO DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!!!! then clean it up and you should be able to repaint with primer not adhesion promoter. just pick off of the first option after that.


Me personally I would go the route of the first choice. Also before you paint let the spray can sit under hot water in the sink for 2 minutes, running water is fine, this will help with the flow through the can and give you a better spray. Oh it's also a good idea to let the parts gas out for a few days. meaning dry out cause the need time to bond properly

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

hmm.....i've blacked out over 15+ sets of TL headlights and Civic's & accords.... i never had a real problem with it. Sometimes, i've got little paint dribbles, but lay the piece on its side and have it run off as it dries...

p.s. .. every single time, i've only used Dupli-Color Engine Paint in either Gloss or Flat black

SRT-11

quick synopsis of your procedure?

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

no sanding or anything of the sort...

First time i did it, i followed PPLAPW's DIY instructions in the 3G garage... since then, I've done it many many times for fellow members

basically, you've already baked it out, and opening it... i laid the small pieces in a cardboard gift box (like xmas clothes box) and sprayed it from like 6 inches away, constantly moving the can... did it in about 3 - 4 coats, 20 minutes in between coats, and 1 hour to cure when done...

Duplicolor Engine Enamel (you NEED head resistant paint, HIDs get hot!)

Click on the 3G garage and look for the thread under Headlights DIY...

ayethetiense

you must sand it down, and painting the reflectors black will make you lose a lot of light output. its gona look real dim. most people have blacked out the other areas except for the part that reflects. that what i would suggest everyone to do.

SRT-11

That's the way I did it this time, and that's the way I always do it.

Also, HID's operate at 35 watts (as opposed to 55-65 watts for a typical incandescent headlight) which in turn only generates about half the heat of a typical headlight.