Help...does this break pad look new to you?
#1
Help...does this break pad look new to you?
Garage just changed my break pad...came back, but it doesn't look any thick[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/Desktop/CIMG2427.JPG[/IMG]er....this on a 07 TL Type-s
#2
Chapter Leader (New England)
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From: W. Hart, CT & Amelia Island, FL
Dude I can barely even tell what I'm looking at, or what you're asking.
If you asking me if they look like new pads, I would need you to take your wheels off and get a better angle.
If you asking me if they look like new pads, I would need you to take your wheels off and get a better angle.
#3
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#9
easiest way to tell is to look at the backing plate of the pads, which you should be able to see just by looking at your calipers closely through the wheels. If they are dirty, then the pads are old... If they are VERY clean, then either the pads are new, or the shop removed the pads, cleaned them, and put them back in....
Otherwise, by judging by the pics, your pads look old... Either that, or they installed sh!tty pads...
Otherwise, by judging by the pics, your pads look old... Either that, or they installed sh!tty pads...
#10
easiest way to tell is to look at the backing plate of the pads, which you should be able to see just by looking at your calipers closely through the wheels. If they are dirty, then the pads are old... If they are VERY clean, then either the pads are new, or the shop removed the pads, cleaned them, and put them back in....
Otherwise, by judging by the pics, your pads look old... Either that, or they installed sh!tty pads...
Otherwise, by judging by the pics, your pads look old... Either that, or they installed sh!tty pads...
They did show me the pads they took out...so at the moment...it's my word vs their's...if someone with the above pad could post a pic here that would give me some leverage....thanks. Otherwise I am not sure what else I can do...
#11
have another shop look at the new brakes for you
Did you bring the old parts home?
otherwise its just parts they showed you- dont even know they came from your car unless in a bag with invoice number on it ( I worked in the biz)
Minimum pad material thickness is normally 2mm- as determined by that bent metal piece on pad back hits the rotor when pad material wears down that far- the sqeualer tab- its called
See how it would hit when brake applied
Measure actual pad thickness
Look at top of pad for vent cut thru its depth down to 2mm in center
not all pads have the center vent but those with are easy to see wear- look for the slot thru the opening on top of caliper- thats what the hole is for
the shop may think the tech did the brake job..but it doesnt look right to any of us who have done more brake jobs than you can count
brand new pads are either 8mm pad or 10mm thick pad material depending on maker
Either will require the piston in the caliper to be pushed back nearly flat with the caliper body,,normally its out a little and you can see it after a little wear
It stays extended slightly as pads wear- if you can see 1/2 inch of piston you have no brakes!!
Pad sets come with 4 pads- 2 for each wheel,inner and outer
there should be 1 pad with the metal squealer tab put on inner side of brake rotor-
do not install pads so one rotor has both pads with the tab
Outer pad has no extra bits on it
Ck those- never trust anyone!- they low man does brake jobs
Caution to all who do rear brakes- several makers use the wrong backing plate- including hawk- it will have a 3rd- middle tab on the inner pad
the 3rd tab hits the caliper piston- only half the pad gets pushed and a funky shake under braking occurs
To see if thats happened to you look at inner face of rear rotors- shiny across is good
half rusty/half shiny across its width means has extra tab on pads
remove pad and grind tab off- put back together and bed in the brakes a few times to get wear evened out
Did you bring the old parts home?
otherwise its just parts they showed you- dont even know they came from your car unless in a bag with invoice number on it ( I worked in the biz)
Minimum pad material thickness is normally 2mm- as determined by that bent metal piece on pad back hits the rotor when pad material wears down that far- the sqeualer tab- its called
See how it would hit when brake applied
Measure actual pad thickness
Look at top of pad for vent cut thru its depth down to 2mm in center
not all pads have the center vent but those with are easy to see wear- look for the slot thru the opening on top of caliper- thats what the hole is for
the shop may think the tech did the brake job..but it doesnt look right to any of us who have done more brake jobs than you can count
brand new pads are either 8mm pad or 10mm thick pad material depending on maker
Either will require the piston in the caliper to be pushed back nearly flat with the caliper body,,normally its out a little and you can see it after a little wear
It stays extended slightly as pads wear- if you can see 1/2 inch of piston you have no brakes!!
Pad sets come with 4 pads- 2 for each wheel,inner and outer
there should be 1 pad with the metal squealer tab put on inner side of brake rotor-
do not install pads so one rotor has both pads with the tab
Outer pad has no extra bits on it
Ck those- never trust anyone!- they low man does brake jobs
Caution to all who do rear brakes- several makers use the wrong backing plate- including hawk- it will have a 3rd- middle tab on the inner pad
the 3rd tab hits the caliper piston- only half the pad gets pushed and a funky shake under braking occurs
To see if thats happened to you look at inner face of rear rotors- shiny across is good
half rusty/half shiny across its width means has extra tab on pads
remove pad and grind tab off- put back together and bed in the brakes a few times to get wear evened out
Last edited by 01tl4tl; 05-28-2010 at 06:36 PM.
#12
have another shop look at the new brakes for you
Did you bring the old parts home?
otherwise its just parts they showed you- dont even know they came from your car unless in a bag with invoice number on it ( I worked in the biz)
Minimum pad material thickness is normally 2mm- as determined by that bent metal piece on pad back hits the rotor when pad material wears down that far- the sqeualer tab- its called
See how it would hit when brake applied
Measure actual pad thickness
Look at top of pad for vent cut thru its depth down to 2mm in center
not all pads have the center vent but those with are easy to see wear- look for the slot thru the opening on top of caliper- thats what the hole is for
the shop may think the tech did the brake job..but it doesnt look right to any of us who have done more brake jobs than you can count
brand new pads are either 8mm pad or 10mm thick pad material depending on maker
Either will require the piston in the caliper to be pushed back nearly flat with the caliper body,,normally its out a little and you can see it after a little wear
It stays extended slightly as pads wear- if you can see 1/2 inch of piston you have no brakes!!
Pad sets come with 4 pads- 2 for each wheel,inner and outer
there should be 1 pad with the metal squealer tab put on inner side of brake rotor-
do not install pads so one rotor has both pads with the tab
Outer pad has no extra bits on it
Ck those- never trust anyone!- they low man does brake jobs
Caution to all who do rear brakes- several makers use the wrong backing plate- including hawk- it will have a 3rd- middle tab on the inner pad
the 3rd tab hits the caliper piston- only half the pad gets pushed and a funky shake under braking occurs
To see if thats happened to you look at inner face of rear rotors- shiny across is good
half rusty/half shiny across its width means has extra tab on pads
remove pad and grind tab off- put back together and bed in the brakes a few times to get wear evened out
Did you bring the old parts home?
otherwise its just parts they showed you- dont even know they came from your car unless in a bag with invoice number on it ( I worked in the biz)
Minimum pad material thickness is normally 2mm- as determined by that bent metal piece on pad back hits the rotor when pad material wears down that far- the sqeualer tab- its called
See how it would hit when brake applied
Measure actual pad thickness
Look at top of pad for vent cut thru its depth down to 2mm in center
not all pads have the center vent but those with are easy to see wear- look for the slot thru the opening on top of caliper- thats what the hole is for
the shop may think the tech did the brake job..but it doesnt look right to any of us who have done more brake jobs than you can count
brand new pads are either 8mm pad or 10mm thick pad material depending on maker
Either will require the piston in the caliper to be pushed back nearly flat with the caliper body,,normally its out a little and you can see it after a little wear
It stays extended slightly as pads wear- if you can see 1/2 inch of piston you have no brakes!!
Pad sets come with 4 pads- 2 for each wheel,inner and outer
there should be 1 pad with the metal squealer tab put on inner side of brake rotor-
do not install pads so one rotor has both pads with the tab
Outer pad has no extra bits on it
Ck those- never trust anyone!- they low man does brake jobs
Caution to all who do rear brakes- several makers use the wrong backing plate- including hawk- it will have a 3rd- middle tab on the inner pad
the 3rd tab hits the caliper piston- only half the pad gets pushed and a funky shake under braking occurs
To see if thats happened to you look at inner face of rear rotors- shiny across is good
half rusty/half shiny across its width means has extra tab on pads
remove pad and grind tab off- put back together and bed in the brakes a few times to get wear evened out
Thanks for all the help....should have done this my self =/
#17
It looks like in that second picture we are looking at the end of the tapered pad. That would be why:
1) It looks like it is at a weird angle
2) It doesn't look very thick. That's probably only about 1/2 as thick as the full pad itself if looking at it more from the side.
Either way doesn't hurt to take a closer look or to another shop and have em dbl check.
1) It looks like it is at a weird angle
2) It doesn't look very thick. That's probably only about 1/2 as thick as the full pad itself if looking at it more from the side.
Either way doesn't hurt to take a closer look or to another shop and have em dbl check.
#19
It looks like in that second picture we are looking at the end of the tapered pad. That would be why:
1) It looks like it is at a weird angle
2) It doesn't look very thick. That's probably only about 1/2 as thick as the full pad itself if looking at it more from the side.
Either way doesn't hurt to take a closer look or to another shop and have em dbl check.
1) It looks like it is at a weird angle
2) It doesn't look very thick. That's probably only about 1/2 as thick as the full pad itself if looking at it more from the side.
Either way doesn't hurt to take a closer look or to another shop and have em dbl check.
#20
As you can see in the following pic, the brembo pads have a long tapper at both the leading and trailing edges. The updated Type-S pads have an even longer leading edge tapper. If your photo is of this area it will be hard to tell if the pad is new or old because it will seem thin no matter what.
#21
Instead of arguing over how pads should look from the pictures that were posted, the OP could easily tell if the pad was replaced or not, he can simply remove his wheel, and look at the top of the caliper, and see the top of the pad... Then he'll know how thick the main part of the pad was...
#23
Yes he did...
No biggie. Sorry for sounding like a jerk.
Phonebook: As avs007 said, this is the best way to check pad condition:
No biggie. Sorry for sounding like a jerk.
Phonebook: As avs007 said, this is the best way to check pad condition:
Last edited by 94eg!; 05-30-2010 at 03:21 PM.
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