has anyone tightened their valves?
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
has anyone tightened their valves?
Im not too concerned with it but I am curious because I was talking to an X-tech from honda and he said that it would be wise when coming close to 100k miles. He said anywhere from 80-100k is a good time to think about taking the motor apart and retuning the valves... I know how to do it and Ive done it before in other cars so this one wouldnt be any diff but the procedure kinda bothers me because they say when inspecting the engine components if the vtec rockers move just by pushing them down they need to be replaced......and they arent cheap....whatta u guys think?
#2
Senior Moderator
valve adjustment is scheduled at 105K miles with the timing belt and water pump, or was it 125K?
#4
Valve adjustment is a required maitenance on fuel injected cars, often just 2 or 3 are a little loose- which makes for a fast adjustment once you get all the stuff out of the way
the book says 60k miles if driven under severe maitenance schedule and 105 if regular schedule
Read the fine print- many of us commute or high speed or live in extreme weather== severe schedule
the book says 60k miles if driven under severe maitenance schedule and 105 if regular schedule
Read the fine print- many of us commute or high speed or live in extreme weather== severe schedule
#5
Does vtec work now? then dont worry about that- I never read anything on here about it being a problem
Adjust the valves and enjoy the restored performance and mileage
No need to rebuild the entire engine~ just the water pump and timing belt + related accessories. at 100 the cylinders still look brand new, some seafoam cleaning will rid the system of carbon.
Adjust the valves and enjoy the restored performance and mileage
No need to rebuild the entire engine~ just the water pump and timing belt + related accessories. at 100 the cylinders still look brand new, some seafoam cleaning will rid the system of carbon.
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
yea i planned on seafoam soon I def wasnt gonna rebuild the motor....vtec engages no prob to my knowledge....but a tightening is def needed i can hear it.
#7
its often a few exhaust and maybe an intake valve are the slightest bit loose, enough to make noise and cause performance loss
Its not a belt tensioner pulley noise you are hearing- right <g>
Its not a belt tensioner pulley noise you are hearing- right <g>
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#8
IMO do a seafoam oil change before adjusting the valves- get the cams and everything clean so it gives perfect readings on the go/no go feeler guage
Crud can affect the reading and adjustment
Crud can affect the reading and adjustment
#12
there is a diy in the garage section
#16
Registered Member
Im not too concerned with it but I am curious because I was talking to an X-tech from honda and he said that it would be wise when coming close to 100k miles. He said anywhere from 80-100k is a good time to think about taking the motor apart and retuning the valves... I know how to do it and Ive done it before in other cars so this one wouldnt be any diff but the procedure kinda bothers me because they say when inspecting the engine components if the vtec rockers move just by pushing them down they need to be replaced......and they arent cheap....whatta u guys think?
I haven't examined my Service Manual for the valve adjustment procedure, but if it is like most other overhead cam engines, then it's not a bid deal. What I used to do what put the transmission in 4th or 5th gear (5th would be better and maybe even 6th), then with the emergency brake off, I'd rock the car just enough to force the followers to the center (flat) part of the cam lobes (not the raised part of the lobes, of course). I have never done a valve adjustment on a 4-value per cylinder engine or one with VTEC, so a read up of the manual would be in order for me first.
Good luck.. let us know what you do.
#18
Only time you have to adjust the valves on a TL is if they are noisy, or if you have random misfire codes registered in the ECU- aka check engine light is on. PER Acura if your MAP reading is above 1.0V the valves have to be LOOSENED. What is actually happening is the exhaust valves are TOO tight and they are PARTIALLY staying open. This causes them to "bleed" off compression and power strokes in the engines combustion chamber, and causes misfires. I don't know how many J32/J35s I have adjusted the valves on by now.
You need to hook up a decent code reader that shows you live data list. Look at the MAP value, in perfect world is should be around .85V. The Higher the reading, the tighter the exhaust valves.
I see alot of people frown when they hear their check engine light repair is not covered by their extended warranty....
ALSO replace the crush gaskets between the lower and upper intake manifold. They corrode and cause intake leaks.
My advice, don't touch it. There is NO power to be gained unless the valves are too tight- which will cause compression bleed. Its ALWAYS the exhaust valves too, never seen the intakes needing any adjustment- I do check em thou.
You need to hook up a decent code reader that shows you live data list. Look at the MAP value, in perfect world is should be around .85V. The Higher the reading, the tighter the exhaust valves.
I see alot of people frown when they hear their check engine light repair is not covered by their extended warranty....
ALSO replace the crush gaskets between the lower and upper intake manifold. They corrode and cause intake leaks.
My advice, don't touch it. There is NO power to be gained unless the valves are too tight- which will cause compression bleed. Its ALWAYS the exhaust valves too, never seen the intakes needing any adjustment- I do check em thou.
#20
ha! carbed cars are able to run with the valves out of clearance much easier than a finely tuned fuel injected motor- which uses sensors and technolgy to adjust fuel flow and timing on the fly
Think of the chevy 350 you loosen the valve with engine running, then tighten to a certain tone!! pretty liberal spec there~
On the old datsun 280Z cars- every 7500 miles we had to adjust the valves- per the book -Bimmers same thing
Acura suggest they be `inspected`at the 105 (earlier if severe service)- that means adjusted as needed when found, since you would adjust it if not in spec.
for the acura tech: do you suggest a normal bump remote starter switch to turn the engine over?
Think of the chevy 350 you loosen the valve with engine running, then tighten to a certain tone!! pretty liberal spec there~
On the old datsun 280Z cars- every 7500 miles we had to adjust the valves- per the book -Bimmers same thing
Acura suggest they be `inspected`at the 105 (earlier if severe service)- that means adjusted as needed when found, since you would adjust it if not in spec.
for the acura tech: do you suggest a normal bump remote starter switch to turn the engine over?
#21
Burning Brakes
ha! carbed cars are able to run with the valves out of clearance much easier than a finely tuned fuel injected motor- which uses sensors and technolgy to adjust fuel flow and timing on the fly
Think of the chevy 350 you loosen the valve with engine running, then tighten to a certain tone!! pretty liberal spec there~
Think of the chevy 350 you loosen the valve with engine running, then tighten to a certain tone!! pretty liberal spec there~
The fact that Acura can have a solid-follower valvetrain go 100k+ miles without needing adjustment makes the requirement less necessary than the older engines, not more. Try that interval with an old 30-30 cammed 327, and you'll be digging the valves out of the seats on teardown- if it lasts that long.
Just my opinion, of course. It's a testament to the precision engineering that goes into the Honda engines.
I don't mess with the solids anymore in the old Chevy- I've moved on to hydraulic rollers. Set it, forget it (well, unless you miss a shift at the strip...)
#22
I do not recommend remote starters on TLs... I seen 3 cars in the shop with burned out MICU units. Might be just a fluke as those things are always going bad for weird problems on the 3rd gen TLs.
#23
Safety Car
Thread Starter
ive had no problems installing remote starters on any TL, I do remote starter alarm combo units without issues it just takes a long time u need to be a lil fingered woman to get ur hands n fingers up under the dash to do this shit. it sucks.
#25
Registered User
i've done valve adjustments on both type of Honda engines (SOHC and DOHC VTEC), you don't actually touch the VTEC mechanism.
basically all you need to adjust the valves are a feeler gauge, and an open ended wrench with a screw driver or special tool if you feel like spending the cash
here are the clearances
intake - 0.20-0.24mm
exhaust - 0.28-0.32mm
one last thing is you need to make sure the piston is in the correct position(TDC) while you adjust each set of valves
basically all you need to adjust the valves are a feeler gauge, and an open ended wrench with a screw driver or special tool if you feel like spending the cash
here are the clearances
intake - 0.20-0.24mm
exhaust - 0.28-0.32mm
one last thing is you need to make sure the piston is in the correct position(TDC) while you adjust each set of valves
Last edited by rbf351; 01-28-2009 at 09:34 AM.
#27
what I meant: older 60-70s- chevy engines and their valve adjustments.
No tech here can say that a valve adjsutment on the TL at 100k is a bad idea- sure they are good TILL then, and then its time for a check and adjust as directed by the book. Keep everything in spec and the delicate sensors and programs work their best!
My question on remote BUMP starter use during valve adjustment-
that is a mechanics tool that allows you to bump the starter in small increments to turn the engine over to the next valve on TDC--rather than using the key and overshoot...
Not asking about remote start units that let you sit in the house while the car warms up
No tech here can say that a valve adjsutment on the TL at 100k is a bad idea- sure they are good TILL then, and then its time for a check and adjust as directed by the book. Keep everything in spec and the delicate sensors and programs work their best!
My question on remote BUMP starter use during valve adjustment-
that is a mechanics tool that allows you to bump the starter in small increments to turn the engine over to the next valve on TDC--rather than using the key and overshoot...
Not asking about remote start units that let you sit in the house while the car warms up
#28
Registered User
the VTEC mechanism is nothing more than a free floating rocker arm that gets locked to the intake rockers by a pin via oil pressure. there is actually nothing to adjust.
#29
Safety Car
Thread Starter
oh that i know but in the service manual it says if they move freely and you can push it down with your finger it needs to be replaced. i dont know if thats just to get the customer to spend more money or if they tell u that for really worn out pieces. the tech at acura told me my engine is super clean and i have nothing to worry about but def it will need adjustment at 100k....and hes not telling me that to make money hes telling me this as a side note....i dont talk to the guy through the service manager or anything i talk to the dude on a more personal level
Last edited by Tripnbeats; 01-28-2009 at 10:39 AM.
#30
Registered User
oh that i know but in the service manual it says if they move freely and you can push it down with your finger it needs to be replaced. i dont know if thats just to get the customer to spend more money or if they tell u that for really worn out pieces. the tech at acura told me my engine is super clean and i have nothing to worry about but def it will need adjustment at 100k....and hes not telling me that to make money hes telling me this as a side note....i dont talk to the guy through the service manager or anything i talk to the dude on a more personal level
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