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Hailstorm - 1, TL -0

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Old 04-25-2007, 03:40 PM
  #41  
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For those of you following my little saga, I've been to 3 body shops today, and they're saying no way can they do it for the $5,000 State Farm has estimated (and they're SF "preferred" shops, too). They're saying as much as $8,000.

SF had allowed for replacement of the hood and trunk, but the shops are saying the roof has to be pulled and replaced as well ... just too much distortion to be able to PDR it.

So I'm looking at new hood, roof and trunk, and that means 3-4 weeks in the shop, lots of paint, etc., etc. We're talking pieces cut off and new ones welded back on, sunroof pulled and reinstalled, and so on. In fact, the only major part on the car with no dings is the right rear door.

Really looking like I'll let the shop and SF work it out, then when it's fixed it gets traded. Buh-bye broken TL.

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Old 04-25-2007, 06:56 PM
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Old 04-25-2007, 07:00 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Mike_TX
For those of you following my little saga, I've been to 3 body shops today, and they're saying no way can they do it for the $5,000 State Farm has estimated (and they're SF "preferred" shops, too). They're saying as much as $8,000.

SF had allowed for replacement of the hood and trunk, but the shops are saying the roof has to be pulled and replaced as well ... just too much distortion to be able to PDR it.

So I'm looking at new hood, roof and trunk, and that means 3-4 weeks in the shop, lots of paint, etc., etc. We're talking pieces cut off and new ones welded back on, sunroof pulled and reinstalled, and so on. In fact, the only major part on the car with no dings is the right rear door.

Really looking like I'll let the shop and SF work it out, then when it's fixed it gets traded. Buh-bye broken TL.

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DO NOT LET THEM CUT THE ROOF AND WELD A NEW ONE. They might as well buy the car off of you.
Old 04-25-2007, 07:04 PM
  #44  
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Ouch, you have my condolences.
Old 04-25-2007, 10:18 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by dnd2984
DO NOT LET THEM CUT THE ROOF AND WELD A NEW ONE. They might as well buy the car off of you.
Looks like it's either that or have a roof that has waves like the ocean. Just too many dents to allow them to maintain the original curves of the roof. Every shop I've been to has told me this, so I've become a believer.

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Old 04-25-2007, 10:57 PM
  #46  
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Mike_Tx, the damage looks more like $6-7m..not sure as can not see the total car....Get your agent involved if you think you are short $s...

I know how you feel...my low miles, super clean TSX got hit for $7+m while overnight at Acura dealer...I have three panels (drivers side) with no damage...They covered nothing...Oh! they now have their cars covered but customers still sit outside...

If you get it fixed, it may not be too bad...if it bothers you move on to another....mine required such major repair that I did not repair due to time in shop and cut, replace and paint issues.....I have silver so not too bad if you do not look to close (small dents just a lot of them like yours)...to me the unrepaired car v.s. the cut car feels better, even with the dents....

No good answer to the problem...just do what feels right to you....good luck to ya....OH, if you trade unrepaired, do not let your dealer/lease company know your insurance settlement til deal is right for you..
Old 04-25-2007, 11:08 PM
  #47  
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I feel your pain. I have 2 cars totalled by DFW hail storms. Just looking at the pictures it should be "totalled" IMO.

Recomendation:
Get 3 good estimates from a body shops that repair high-end Benzs, BMW, Ferrari etcs. They typically won't be in the phone book and you can get them from the dealers. They should have a 3-4 month wait for their services and you might have to pay for a quote. Also get a CarMax quote to show the decreased vaule of your car. Also use a black light in an enclosed area and look for small imperfections. Check the glass, trim, wheels, ripples in the plastic bumper covers. They should be there with golf ball size hail. Use a grease pen and circle all the damages. You should also be able to point out all the trim pieces with hail and all of them will drive up the repair bill. Also look for cracks to the finish of you wheels.

Then go back to State Farm and make sure to help point out EVERY imperfection. This should get it totalled or bought back. Also remember that its their job to settle the claim for less and keep this away from the courts.

IF this fails... Wait for the next hail storm and make sure it gets hit again before you pay the deductible. A gas receipt from that area with your signature should show proof you were in that storm.
Old 04-26-2007, 04:20 AM
  #48  
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wow, i'm sorry to hear that, and see that, it was hailing here for alil and i just covered up the car with awhole bunch of blankets cause I spent the night at my girlfriends house.... hope everything goes well
~Jason
Old 04-26-2007, 07:59 AM
  #49  
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Bodyshops want to replace more panels so they make more money. They know that PDR could remove them. So do not go by any Bodyshop. You need to just find a PDR place. They can remove every single dent you got and it will most likely be under $1k. Pocket the rest of the money. I had way way more damage than you have on my G35 that I bought from Austin Infiniti about 2-3 years ago. It was blasted in that last storm they had around that time. Hood, Trunk, chrome door moldings, rear bumper, rear tail-lights had to all be replaced from either being dented or shattered. The rest was done by PDR and you could never tell. It was hit with golf ball sized hail.

A friend down here has a Mazda 3 that got hit also. His insurance gave him a amount and he went to body shops, same thing too much and insurance wouldn't pay more. PDR though made his car look bran new.


Originally Posted by Mike_TX
For those of you following my little saga, I've been to 3 body shops today, and they're saying no way can they do it for the $5,000 State Farm has estimated (and they're SF "preferred" shops, too). They're saying as much as $8,000.

SF had allowed for replacement of the hood and trunk, but the shops are saying the roof has to be pulled and replaced as well ... just too much distortion to be able to PDR it.

So I'm looking at new hood, roof and trunk, and that means 3-4 weeks in the shop, lots of paint, etc., etc. We're talking pieces cut off and new ones welded back on, sunroof pulled and reinstalled, and so on. In fact, the only major part on the car with no dings is the right rear door.

Really looking like I'll let the shop and SF work it out, then when it's fixed it gets traded. Buh-bye broken TL.

.
.
Old 04-26-2007, 08:18 AM
  #50  
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Thanks again for the ideas on this, guys.

I guess part of the dilemma is that if I tried to get it done totally by PDR, and it ended up looking funky (wavy, ripply, not crisp, etc.), I'm screwed, since I'll then have to pay to get panels replaced. That's paying twice for the same panels, and State Farm ain't gonna have any sympathy for me ... they'll say I should have done it right the first time.

I'm probably just going to gut up and hand it over to a State Farm-approved shop and get it done right. If there's any issue with the amount of the settlement, they'll work it out direct with SF and I'm out of the picture. Ditto for any problems - if I'm not happy with the repairs, I just tell 'em to keep at it until it's right.

I think that's the best solution.

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Old 04-26-2007, 09:53 AM
  #51  
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Well lets say if you do it the way you want, then your car is considered as being repainted and it loses value as soon as its traded in. Like in a wreck. Not sure about a lease though. But with PDR you will never know. My G35 was black, and you can see every crease on it left. There was none on it after they fixed it. Even won 1st place at a few car shows on the paint on how black it was and how good shape the car was in.
Old 05-03-2007, 01:23 PM
  #52  
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Any updates on this Mike?
Old 05-16-2007, 05:40 PM
  #53  
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Just got back from the shop. They called and said it was ready.

The first thing I noticed was that the passenger door, front fenders and hood (all of which they painted) were more "sparkly" than the rest of the car ... too much metallic. In addition, there were buffer swirls on the fender and door. I hate that.

The hood (which they had to replace) did fit nicely, and the gaps, etc., were nice and even. The top had some small undulations if you looked at it real closely, so the PDR did leave some subtle after-effects. Nothing you would notice unless you knew it, though.

So the bottom line is that after 2 weeks and 3 days, they get to get it back to repaint the pass door, both front fenders and the hood. I'll get to try again in 3 or 4 days to see if they did better this time.

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Old 05-25-2007, 02:28 PM
  #54  
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If anyone cares, I finally got the TL back today, after 25 days in the body shop.

It looks pretty good this time, except that I noticed some fogged paint on the right front fender where they apparently tried to blend the paint from the hood. I think that can be buffed out, but it's rainy today and I'll worry about it next week.

They did a pretty darn good job overall, and the PDR parts of the repair look almost perfect. The hood was replaced, and they did a great job of lining up the seams, etc., so I have no gripes there. They had to remove the sunroof, headliner and passenger door panel and trim a couple of times, and amazingly there's little evidence of it. I figured they'd ding up something in the process, but there's only one little place on the door panel.

Overall, I don't think anyone would ever know the car had been damaged to the tune of over $5,200. It looks virtually like a new one. Which is to say don't freak out if something happens to your car - they can do wonders these days.

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Old 05-25-2007, 03:18 PM
  #55  
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Oh, and I got a "bonus" ... they apparently shot the front bumper when they did the hood and fenders, because there's no rock chips!

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Old 05-25-2007, 04:27 PM
  #56  
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OH MY GOD! That's painful!!! So sorry, my extreme condolences!
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