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Anybody still have any .24 ohm resistors they wanna get rid of?..Getting some switchbacks in the mail next week
l have both 0.24 and 0.12 ohm resistors. You can have them all (since I no longer have my TL), just pay it forward to whoever else may need them as well. A little payback to all the help I have gotten here. Thanks!
Just finished it on my base 2008 TL.
I also tested those scenarios, and with LEDs only on rear, or with LEDs both front and rear relay works as it should.
Thank you so much.
And because photos are down, there's couple from me :
Isn't it crazy how this little modification can resolve such an annoying problem?! This method is 100Xs better than installing load resistors in my opinion.
Nice. So .24 and front and rear work as they should? Anyone know what's the best led bulbs at the moment for this?
Originally Posted by 3GTLCHICK
I've got bulbs, does anyone know if this kills the burnt bulb indicator, too?
I've been using Morimoto bulbs because they cost less, but I think the Vled Tritons are pretty much the best out there right now...they're expensive though.
If you're planning buying Triton V6, read my thread first. No idea if they fixed them, but they have quite a big problem.
Otherwise go with morimoto, or just with something from Amazon. I've been running those cheap switchbacks ($20 for both) for like a year now, and they still work great.
It appears that it should. However, this relay is $60.00 as opposed to $0.02 you could pay to do this yourself if you have 15 min and a soldering iron.
It appears that it should. However, this relay is $60.00 as opposed to $0.02 you could pay to do this yourself if you have 15 min and a soldering iron.
Yah you are right. I picked up a bunch of resistors from Amazon for $6. I'm gonna try the OP method first. Any idea what soldering iron I should get? I've never soldered before so this feels like a good training piece.
Forgot to mention, if I have switchbacks LEDs in my front headlights, will they be affected by the mod as well? In other words will the regular 0.12 Ohms 1 watt resistor work for both LED turn signals (front and rear)? My front LEDs never had hyperflash before and they have an independent fuse. I just swapped my rear turn signal bulb for LEDs. That's when the hyperflash began.
It explains how to solder for LEDs for front and rear. Right now with one resistor, I believe it’s for either front or back,not both.
I took my module out and brought it to a computer repair guy and had him solderit to the board. Gave him three bucks. Took him all of 10 seconds.
I broke the PCB on my factory relay trying to get it out. Went and bought a direct OEM replacement for $72 with tax and soldered a .24 resistor in and now my turn signals do not work at all. Pretty irritated tbh.
and now my turn signals do not work at all. Pretty irritated tbh.
Should note, my OEM incandescent bulbs do not work anymore. I have not swapped in the switchbacks to test. The OEM should still work perfectly if I did this right and they don't.
It explains how to solder for LEDs for front and rear. Right now with one resistor, I believe it’s for either front or back,not both.
I took my module out and brought it to a computer repair guy and had him solderit to the board. Gave him three bucks. Took him all of 10 seconds.
Ahh sounds good. I skimmed through the thread and that noticed someone with 4 turn signal LEDs went with 2 0.12 Ohm resistors in parallel.
I'm gonna take your advice as well, go to a computer repair guy and have him solder it up.
That's the shunt you're removing and replacing with a resistor
First I'd like to thank you for potentially saving me over $100. I was about to buy a couple of those $60 LED flashers from diodedynamics. I don't know if it's been pointed out yet, but that piece of metal labeled "shunt resistor" is actually the shunt. All the current of the signal bulbs passes through this piece of metal. The shunt resistor is one of those black rectangles on the back of the circuit board.
Basically, the chip measures the voltage drop across the shunt. By increasing the resistance of the shunt (in this case, by replacing the shunt with a resistor), the voltage drop across the shunt is greater for any given current, resulting in hyperflash at a higher current.
This seems like a perfect solution but keep in mind that all the current going to the lights passes through this shunt (or resistor in this case), so if you change it to a resistor, it will lower the voltage seen by the bulbs. However, since LEDs draw so little current, the voltage drop is insignificant, and since LEDs usually have voltage regulation, the end result is that there will be no noticeable change in brightness. However, my concern is that the resistor may not be able to handle the current draw of all 4 signals at once. I'm going to use V6 Triton Extremes, and those are rated at 1.7A each, so four would be 6.8A. How long can that resistor handle that much current?
If we could actually change the shunt resistor to the correct value, that would be ideal. No bulb current passes through that one.
I look forward to doing this to my Odyssey as well since it uses the same flasher. Thanks again for this!
Does anyone know if this works only for Acuras/Hondas or can this work for other vehicles too i.e. Toyota/Lexus/Nissan/Infiniti...etc
Try searching Amazon for an LED flasher for your car. I searched for my Toyota, and they're only $10.
Originally Posted by iTzVlad
Ahh sounds good. I skimmed through the thread and that noticed someone with 4 turn signal LEDs went with 2 0.12 Ohm resistors in parallel.
I'm gonna take your advice as well, go to a computer repair guy and have him solder it up.
I don't think you should wire them in parallel. That would halve the resistance. You want to increase the resistance to increase the voltage drop across the shunt, so just get a single 0.24 ohm resistor.
robocam you are right and I was considering different approach when I made the modification to my relay. However I was running all LEDs for over 2 years and relay didn't fail yet so I will still ignore the issue.
I believe you are not right about the shunt resistor. Read the documentation for the chip that relay is using.
So the very good approach would be to cut connection to pin #7 and instead feed it something from voltage divider (made with some high value resistors). But it is much harder than simply soldering one resistor and calling it a day.
Additionally, you wrote that all 4 bulbs would draw 6.8A. Are you sure your bulbs draw that much current? At 12V that would be over 80W. That would be a incandescent bulb territory. That's more than both headlights are rated for (each ballast is rated for 35W).
If you're correct, then the 0.12 shunt resistor that we put would see like ~5-6W of power at 50% duty cycle. Probably too much for 1W rated resistor and it wouldn't last long.
Try to measure how much your bulbs are actually drawing.
The shunt resistor is R3. The mod described in this thread replaces the shunt (Rs) with a resistor. What we need to do is find the shunt resistor (it is listed as R3 = 220 ohms at the bottom on page 2 of the pdf), and change it to a value that prevents hyperflash under lower loads. This resistor doesn't need to handle the load, so we can use a small 1/4 watt resistor.
Here's the data for the V6 Triton Extreme (in the specifications section it lists the current draw at 1.7A. They even say that load resistors may not be needed to eliminate hyperflash. These are bright bulbs
...I believe you are not right about the shunt resistor...
...Additionally, you wrote that all 4 bulbs would draw 6.8A. Are you sure your bulbs draw that much current? At 12V that would be over 80W. That would be a incandescent bulb territory. That's more than both headlights are rated for (each ballast is rated for 35W).
If you're correct, then the 0.12 shunt resistor that we put would see like ~5-6W of power at 50% duty cycle. Probably too much for 1W rated resistor and it wouldn't last long.
Try to measure how much your bulbs are actually drawing.
Maybe I shouldn't call R3 the shunt resistor but R3 is the resistor that tells the chip what voltage drop across the shunt (Rs) activates hyperflash. Changing the shunt resistance (Rs) still works because the chip is fooled into thinking more current is passing (more voltage drop because the resistance is increased from 0.02 ohms) but in this case, we may not want all that current going through the new resistor (Rs) since it's only rated to handle 1 watt. It could get hot enough to melt the plastic and start a fire.
Originally Posted by robocam
The shunt resistor is R3. The mod described in this thread replaces the shunt (Rs) with a resistor. What we need to do is find the shunt resistor (it is listed as R3 = 220 ohms at the bottom on page 2 of the pdf), and change it to a value that prevents hyperflash under lower loads. This resistor doesn't need to handle the load, so we can use a small 1/4 watt resistor.
What I don't like is that pin #1 is labeled as "Vss" which basically means ground.
I can't find any info about R3 being the resistor that sets the threshold. And the fact that it's listed in brackets in the table doesn't mean much.
Of course I might be wrong and there's only one way to find out.
However, If I would be doing the mod differently, I would make a voltage divider and feed pin #7 from it (of course after removing the connection between pin #7 and rest of the circuit).
If the sensing threshold is ~50mV difference from power, I would guess that much more wouldn't trip the fault.
From looking what resistors I have laying around, I would try making voltage divider out of 10k and 470k resistors like:
At 14V, middle of voltage divider would see ~13.7V, (so ~0.300V of difference).
At 12V, ~11.75V.
That's what I would try first. If too much from 0.050V would trip fault, than add resistance to R2 until close to ~0.100V of difference.
Another thing that makes me think it could be R3 is how its value changes on pages 6 vs 7. They have it as 200 ohms in one scenario and 220 ohms in another. But you're right. Trying it is one of the best ways to find out I'm about to do this mod on my TL and Odyssey, so I'll report back what I find.
I just found this. They suggested cutting pin 7 to eliminate hyperflash. I wonder if it would work for our flasher. They both use the same MC33193 chip.
Here's what someone did to a Toyota flasher. Their chip also uses a similar stock resistance of 200 ohms, so I may try their suggested new resistance of 1.8k to see if it works.
...I can't find any info about R3 being the resistor that sets the threshold. And the fact that it's listed in brackets in the table doesn't mean much.
Of course I might be wrong and there's only one way to find out...
Toyota one seems to be using different chip (judging by number of legs and amount of components) so I would skip that.
I don't like the idea of cutting the pin as I have no idea what chip will do if sense pin is floating. In those cases, from my limited experience with micro controllers, that's just recipe for problems. It might work fine one moment, and then do something very weird next.
Try changing the R3 in question. If you produce good results, try to test the relay on various voltages. I guess it would be enough to test when car OFF (12V) and other when engine running (14V). Post what you find.
If I get bored I will pull my relay and test my idea with resistors.
You were right about using a voltage divider! I calculated the voltage across the shunt with a 3 ohm load (two incandescent bulbs in parallel), and it came out to 79 mV, so I setup a voltage divider to send 74 mV, which worked. Now I don't have to worry about hyperflash at any load or burning out anything inside the flasher. I wrote about it in the link below. This also works for Odysseys that use this flasher. Thanks again for your suggestion to use a voltage divider!
...If I would be doing the mod differently, I would make a voltage divider and feed pin #7 from it (of course after removing the connection between pin #7 and rest of the circuit).
If the sensing threshold is ~50mV difference from power, I would guess that much more wouldn't trip the fault.
From looking what resistors I have laying around, I would try making voltage divider out of 10k and 470k resistors like:
At 14V, middle of voltage divider would see ~13.7V, (so ~0.300V of difference).
At 12V, ~11.75V.
That's what I would try first. If too much from 0.050V would trip fault, than add resistance to R2 until close to ~0.100V of difference.
I ordered mine at digikey there was like a 10 piece minimum so I got 10 for like $3.66.
As for shipping Digikey offers shipping for 1.90 for small orders, I bought them on sunday got them on Tuesday. I know that sounds painful but you wouldn't be buying your load resistors locally would you?
There will be a lot of voltage drop across the resistor, so among other things that will be wrong, there will be a lot of power dissipated by that small resistor. It will overheat immediately.
I’m not to sure if this has been talked about but that same method that Roger and the others have figured out about the resistor in the relay. Can that also be done to the DRL (day time running lights) if so is there a write up some where
