Strath

Hello Everyone!

I'm new to the forum but I'm very active on v6p and DA. I come to the realization that if I were to build up my current car (2003 Accord EX-L V6 5AT) I'd need a TL-S manual transmission swap, and basically every part off a TL-S. So I figured... why not just buy a TL-S? I'm a few months away from purchasing my new beast, I just wanted to ask some general questions that hopefully someone will have answers to.

1. And outstanding problems with the 07-08 TL-S?
2. Differences between 07-08 TL-S?
3. Recalls / defects?
4. Max HP/TQ the 6MT can take?
5. Reasonable price for a 2007-8 TL-S?
6. Aftermarket parts availability (Forged internals, E85 conversions, valvetrain, cams)
7. Is it possible to retro the non type S gauges onto a type S? (My color scheme is black / blue for my current car)
8. Anything in particular you wish you could change about your car?
9. Any options to do away with the god forsaken cassette player? (god it's ugly)
10. Stock alternator output?
11. Max PSI that can be ran on stock internals?
12. Any custom header options for a turbo setup? (I knew a guy who basically made his own headers to turbo a J30A4)
13. Is there room for a TT setup under the hood?
14. Any direct bolt up superchargers?
15. Ideal location for an intercooler?
16. Any upgrades / changes / maintenance that should be made immediately after buying the car (Aside from fluids).
17. Who around here has the highest output build?
18. Can the redline be pushed? If so how far and with what mods?
19. I've seen some black / white tail lights for the TL. Are those a mod or aftermarket part?

Feel free to answer any questions you have any information on, I know it's a lot so any input anyone has will be greatly appreciated.

I would also like to say that I may be new to this forum, but I've been working on my J series for about 2 years, and know quite a bit about my accord and hope to be of some informative use to my fellow members. I'll be posting some writeups and DIYs for the J series as soon as I have some free time.

Also, given that I am able to acquire a TL-S manual. You can all expect one badass, no-expense-spared build. I plan to either T, TT, or SC within a year of owning a stable car. I have access to many shop machines, and am able to make custom parts (as far as brackets / mounts / hinges / etc.) I'm aiming for a ~500-600 whp build on an e85 tune. Probably stroke the j35 to a j36 or j37, if that's doable (Haven't looked into acura builds much, yet.)

Fingers crossed I'll find a good car soon!

Strath

Edit: Probably gonna go for 400-500

04WDPSeDaN

iTrader: (1)

Welcome,

A lot of questions here. I usually don't extend such help because all of those questions asked have been asked many times before. So lets start.

1. All 3rd gen TL's suffer common issues like engine mounts, lower control arm bushings, ball joint issues, interior rattles, interior bulbs going out and blue tooth unit failures. More common for 04-06 models are automatic transmission failures and or problems, higher possibility for Dashboard cracking (Can happen to any 3rd gen model including Type-s) door lock actuators failing and window regulators failing. Becoming more common are exterior light failures (HID headlights, LED tails or side markers), transmission mounts and cradle mounts failures, power steering rack and or pump failures, leather seat rips and navigation cd reader failures.

2. https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...2008-a-740392/

3. 2007-2008 Recalls 2008 Acura TL Recalls
2004-2006 Recalls 2004 Acura TL Recalls

4. Max HP and TQ a manual transmission can take more than an automatic. Money is key here. This all depends on how much you're willing to spend to gain whatever hp/tq numbers you want. Start with the Performance Section on this forum for the 3rd gen.
-https://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-112/

5. All depending on your Location, vehicle year, mileage, auto or manual, a-spec or not, condition, maintenance ect.. On average they go for 14-22K. This is all dependent on your budget and your financial well being, none of us here can tell you what to buy.

6. Yes, there are aftermarket parts to buy. As far as internals you need to research on that and talk to a few members who built their engines. The issue you will find here is not the parts or the cost (It is expensive) It's the tuning.
-http://www.heeltoeauto.com/atlp/
-http://www.excelerateperformance.com/
-https://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-112/
-https://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-112/finally-forged-pistons-springs-retainers-race-camshafts-our-cars-753881/

7. It is possible, however here's the issue. swapping a type-s cluster in an 04-06 wont be plug and play. The harness is different and the SRS control unit will tigger a light. I believe it's only plug and play for 07-08 models (base to type-s or type-s to base) Keep in mind the cluster for the type-s is red, so is the interior. The base model is blue with a greenish blue lighting background for the interior. Another thing is, mileage from my understanding is stored on each cluster. I read that the ECU also stores the mileage but it won't correct it for a cluster swap.
-https://acurazine.com/forums/third-generation-tl-2004-2008-93/type-s-cluster-swap-820144/
-https://acurazine.com/forums/third-generation-tl-2004-2008-93/acura-tl-07-08-cluster-into-04-06-a-857092/

8. I've owned my TL for 9 years. I've done a lot to it. Nothing that I'd change other than my interior needs to get redone.

9. You can get a new head unit installed. You would need to talk to the installer about making it work still with the steering wheel controls ect. There's an audio section on this forum, a few of those guys can help you out. I know as the navigation cd reader in the bad fails, most people install tablets in place of the navi screen. Not sure why, when Alpine rebuilds the unit for $300-350.00..
-https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/
-https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/new-acura-tl-looking-suggestions-stereo-upgrade-631224/

10. I believe its 130AMP's.
-https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/high-output-alternator-704021/

11. Supercharging safely on stock internals is about 3.5-5 psi. The issue isn't the max PSI it's the tuning to prevent knock and detention. Some have used hi boost pulley at 9-10 PSI and blew their engines, due to knock mostly. J -series have weak connecting rods.

12. There's a ton of turbo threads. I can't pin point any single one for you to read. I always tell people, in this vehicle, when going F/I Read as MUCH information as you possibly can. It is not that cut and dry. You will need to at least find a shop willing to tune your car right and if you can't do the install yourself, find that shop that can. There's no real DIY posted. If you want DIY buy the comptech supercharger, but we will discuss that as well in another question.
-https://www.google.com/search?q=acura+TL+turbo&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=acura+TL+turbo+site:acurazine.com

13. To my Knowledge, TT doesn't mean faster or better. Everyone has down a single turbo on the TL. I believe in the ZDX forum a guy is doing a very custom twin turbo setup.
-https://acurazine.com/forums/acura-zdx-discussion-326/announcing-my-twin-turbo-zdx-project-889142/

14. Comptech supercharger. However this is direct bolt on for the 3.2 engine. The 3.5 needs a new elbow going to the TB I think. Here is the discussion. It's a standard M62 which is already undersized for the 3.2 and def undersized for the 3.5 The biggest issue is the heat it creates, next to the proper tuning and fuel system. On average, to do a comptech blower with the upgrades to keep it running safe you're in the ball park of 7-11K if not more. Exhaust, intake, meth, injectors, tunning ect is the typical "Extras" needed to keep it running. KingkongDav did supercharger is TL, The thread is a cluster fuck, good luck sorting it out. https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...-chime-902672/

Mas thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/photogr...sarona-737488/

The best thread about boosting:
https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...re-buy-631671/

15. Eric was the 1st to add a inter-cooler to his supercharged TL
-https://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-112/comptech-supercharger-front-mount-ic-air-air-design-601054/

16. Take it to a certified shop or trusty Acura dealership and have them do a complete multi-point inspection and go from there.

17. The highest output is a turbo TL from Canada.
-https://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-112/turbo-3-5l-j-series-v6-high-cr-build-700-whp-901774/

18. I've seen a few members here over-rev on the manual and bend valves. I wouldn't push your luck on that one.

19. There are a few members here who make custom tail lights. You can buy some upgraded on on ebay, but limited on options. heres one vendor
-https://acurazine.com/forums/third-generation-tl-2004-2008-93/custom-tail-lights-head-lights-acktl05-759299/

There's another guy who still makes them but no longer on Acurazine. Prices might be the same as Ack's prices.

Now, lets get down to the facts. I used this website's Search function and google to find your answers. I've been a long time member here and have done years worth of growing and learning with long time members that were once here. I usually don't take 30 mins of my day to reply to something like this. You're welcome. Hit the thanks button on the lower right side of my post. Time to take a few weeks and read up on a lot of things. I'll tell you this now, if you're not looking to spend 6-10K for force induction, don't drive yourself crazy for nothing. The TL is a decently quick car. The money to power scale is terrible. You spend a lot to gain a little. I would do all the bolt on modifications including some port and polish work. You can get 300 whp with a type-s, all bolt on's and porting work. It's been done before. Again, welcome and best of luck!

MarcDavidoff

Now that's an answer. Nice of you to take the time to do that

truonghthe

Hellaluja to those answer.

triax37

iTrader: (1)

FTW!!!

Strath

Thank you very very much for your reply! I haven't been home and won't be home until tomorrow, and I don't know how to "thank" from my phone. Your answer is super helpful, I greatly appreciate you taking the time to answer every question on the first reply! Has anyone here first hand experienced the dash crack? The rest sounds manageable but this just sounds awful. Also in the 700hp build I saw that he revved to 8k. Does anyone know if this was built to take 8k or did they just not shift for the hell of it? Also, what is the redline / fuel cutoff in the type a 6mt? Sorry for all the questions, trying to educate myself the best possible before I sell my current wife and buy a new one.

Pic related :
http://imgur.com/TVd2LK5

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

he built the engine.. stronger valve springs, etc...
then used hondata to raise the rev-limit.

stock fuel cutoff(rev-limit) is at 7200 RPM.

and yes, if you take a look at some of the threads in the "problems and fixes" lots of people have had the dash crack happen to them.
there's this cool dash cover that mimics the stock dash that you can buy. I would do that over replacing the dash if mine ever cracked.

Strath

I know the manuals tend to Rev higher than the autos for Hondas. Isn't the redline 6750ish? That's what it looks like on the gauge. And does anyone know where the "original" thread for the 700 build was posted?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

yeah, when I redline, it goes a little past the 7000 mark...like 7100 or 7200.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

it was linked but a dash was added so it wasnt clickable.

https://acurazine.com/forums/perform...00-whp-901774/

ExcelerateRep

6. Be sure to check out the Sponsor sales section for quality performance products from some great vendors like us and Heeltoe.

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You definitely need to do your research as there are some mods that may help you reach your goals, and others that may not.. Send me a PM if you have any questions. I can help you figure out which mods are best for you!

Strath

That's weird it redline that high since the wiki and Honda release paper both say it makes peak hp (or at least 286hp) at 6250. Does hp curve off after 6250? I hope not... I don't want a Mazda.

Strath

Has anyone ever done a twin setup? I'm really looking for a quick spool small turbo coupled with a medium or larger turbo. Wouldn't want that terrible curve like the 700. Need boost down low. Also does anyone build these 6mts? I know the "bulletproof" 5AT for my j30 is total shit.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

yes HP and TQ curves back down, but you're still making power at redline.
so, might as well push it to redline

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

no twin set up because of space constraints.
have you looked at the engine bay?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

and what do you mean "bulletproof"

Honda's auto trannies HAVE never been bullet proof.
they always die a quick and painful death especially if you're adding that much power.

and yes gawwyammit, tony_the_tiger's 700hp build is 6mt.
are you not reading?!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

unless you meant; make the 6MT stronger...

there were some fancy gears being cut by one manufacture but it cost $10k to manufacture a set of 10.

we arent about that life.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to AcuraZine.

Strath

I meant the level 10 builds. They are marketed as "Bulletproof" even though they could break from a BB gun. Do you think I'd be asking for trouble doing 500-600hp in the 6mt? Or would it take it?

Strath

Also I'd think that by cutting out the windshield spray and some custom mounting work, you could put a turbo in each wheel well. Or nah?

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't waste your time with the Tony the Tiger thread as it seems like a complete fabrication,.(at least to me). As far as single verses twin turbo, the 3G TL 3.2 makes a lot of power pretty low in the rpm range with a single. I don't see much of an advantage other than show for a twin setup. Psi wise on stock components with a good tune, 10 psi seems like the sweet spot. I ran 10-12 psi for about 65k on the stock block and 30k ish with the SC before I started to get a lot of blow by. The J35 seems to have weaker pistons that the 3.2, so those numbers may not apply in your case and a built engine is recommended if you want reliable big numbers.

In terms of running a boosted bored out J35, like a 3.6-3.7. It didn't work out well for the one member I know of ( Bemeyer) who built one, as he was thrashing transmissions left and right from all the TQ. You can make the power you want with the J35.

Strath

What turbo do most people go with for a built j35 on like 18-20 psi? Friend of mine has a built srt4. The first 3500 rpm is absolutely no power and after the mark it just kicks it (700hp srt4 btw). I'd rather have a smooth transition.

StanCeD_J32

iTrader: (11)

unless you've got ATLEAST 10g's to play around with going turbo is just a dream. Many people have turbo'd their TL and they blow up pretty quick unless you got someone who knows specifically about the J series motor.

heisohio

I'm also brand new, this is a great thread (and possible sticky for those looking for next project?)
I'll look for other basic threads (dont want to spend 7k) to personalize/upgrade a new car.
I'm taking the fluids advice to heart next week.

6spd-GERCO

I hope you keep your Accord for DD duties. Your power goals on this platform are large! Best of luck, if I was looking for 500HP-600HP I would look at other platforms.. I love my TL, don't get me wrong but it's not a Corvette.

truonghthe

500-600 whp with most reliable is the 2jz platform, upgrade the internal to GETT and you are good to go.

Strath

Unfortunately can't afford a corvette or a camaro or I'd be all over it xD even a c6 is like 30 grand

Strath

Also, being 18, I can't afford to keep two cars either xD trust me I love my Accord (first car too) and it's beautiful as fuck. But I just can't put literally any power into it without blowing the 5at. So after doing the simple mods I have (headlights, taillights, some painting, aux cord, rims, and restoration) I'm kinda... Done. Other than exhaust which im doing as soon as I can.

Strath

That being said, two friends are mechanics, buddy owns an exhaust shop. I can put money into a car over time but can't just buy an expensive car. Don't wana screw my credit if I'm unable to make payments, whereas mods don't have a time constriction.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

All the guys running the J&R turbo kit are using the Precision 6262 turbo. I'm not sure about what the two type s turbo guys are running turbo wise. There is a huge difference between a 2 liter turbo and a 3.2-3.5 liter turbo in terms of spool in high HP applications.

6spd-GERCO

Strath, I didn't realize you were 18. I remember when I was your age I drove a 1987 Acura Integra and a Saturn Wagon (SOHC version) through College. When I graduated and got established I bought my TL. 18 and already looking for a 6spd TL-S, damn, I can't imagine having a TL-S when I was 18. I am by no means saying that an 18 year old can't own a TL-S just saying I wish I had one when I was 18 . A Turbo TL isn't for the faint of heart, it's an expensive endeavor. If you can't afford 2 cars I don't think your going to be able to afford a Turbo TL, not trying to be rude... just honest... I would parking lot the idea of an FI TL right now

truonghthe

To be honest when I was 18 I couldn't even afford a 3G TL never mind about TL-S. I set my goal for five years after the first introduction of Type S since late 2006. 5 years later I able to save up and get a Type S. There are much more complicated step require turbo car running smooth which as turbo size crest turbo lag, pressure adjustment, tunning and other fab works, etc all involve intensive labor and they don't come cheap if you have a shop do it. EG I have a 01 IS300 if I want 450whp solid with no problem in term reliability the turbo kit cost $6k install cost $1500 tunning require runperfect around $1500, another $3k in upgrade drive trains and engine internal to handle the power. By the time the car run perfect I have to pay around $15k. FI involve much more work rather than just bolt on and call it a day, without proper tunning and set up you will be blowing up either the engine or transmission day in day out. TL isnt a great platform to be turbo and handle more than 350 whp. I would suggest you keep save up and buy a 2011+ CTS-V roughly put down 500whp.

Strath

Save up for a cts-v? Lmao in my dreams. I have started considering a c5 6 speed though. They're roughly the same if not a little cheaper than a tl... Plus a v8

truonghthe

I am done here.