Fram Oil Filters
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Fram Oil Filters
I've searched on the forum and so far a lot of people have said not to use them, I was just wondering why? I bought one today because I am due for an oil change soon and I couldn't find Mobil 1 oil filters or any other brand.
#3
Three Wheelin'
I wish i still had the picture of the one that blew my engine in my civic. I had always used Fram growing up, my dad did, and everyone i knew did. I had just got my engine built and installed in my car, put a fram filter on and started it up, it showed full oil pressure and sounded great, took it for a drive for about 100 miles and then came home to change the oil from break in oil. pulled the filter off and sure as shit on oil in the filter. put another on, started it up for about 5 min and then pulled it off and there was oil. i cut it apart and the filter material was caved in around the center section and not allowing oil flow, and the "safety valve" they put in did nothing.
changed my oil and put another filter on and about another 100 miles later my main and connecting rod bearings were done. I went after Fram with the oil filter findings and invoice for my BRAND NEW BUILT motor and they paid to have it re built. I will NEVER buy Fram again. All i use is Mobil 1, and WIX. Just sharing what happened to me!
changed my oil and put another filter on and about another 100 miles later my main and connecting rod bearings were done. I went after Fram with the oil filter findings and invoice for my BRAND NEW BUILT motor and they paid to have it re built. I will NEVER buy Fram again. All i use is Mobil 1, and WIX. Just sharing what happened to me!
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
I wish i still had the picture of the one that blew my engine in my civic. I had always used Fram growing up, my dad did, and everyone i knew did. I had just got my engine built and installed in my car, put a fram filter on and started it up, it showed full oil pressure and sounded great, took it for a drive for about 100 miles and then came home to change the oil from break in oil. pulled the filter off and sure as shit on oil in the filter. put another on, started it up for about 5 min and then pulled it off and there was oil. i cut it apart and the filter material was caved in around the center section and not allowing oil flow, and the "safety valve" they put in did nothing.
changed my oil and put another filter on and about another 100 miles later my main and connecting rod bearings were done. I went after Fram with the oil filter findings and invoice for my BRAND NEW BUILT motor and they paid to have it re built. I will NEVER buy Fram again. All i use is Mobil 1, and WIX. Just sharing what happened to me!
changed my oil and put another filter on and about another 100 miles later my main and connecting rod bearings were done. I went after Fram with the oil filter findings and invoice for my BRAND NEW BUILT motor and they paid to have it re built. I will NEVER buy Fram again. All i use is Mobil 1, and WIX. Just sharing what happened to me!
#7
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Thread Starter
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#8
Race Director
iTrader: (8)
I used Fram for my first oil change.
Now I'm using Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
I guess I just follow the crowd =(
Now I'm using Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
I guess I just follow the crowd =(
#9
Race Director
Babylou,
O'reilly is having a sale on oil and filters. They have M1 filters. They're down on 20th st SW. Here's the flier:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/cu...n=cur-ad-stack
Is FRAM the best filter? No. Is your engine going to blow up? No, there are plenty of people who use FRAMs with no issues whatsoever.
O'reilly is having a sale on oil and filters. They have M1 filters. They're down on 20th st SW. Here's the flier:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/cu...n=cur-ad-stack
Is FRAM the best filter? No. Is your engine going to blow up? No, there are plenty of people who use FRAMs with no issues whatsoever.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 01-04-2011 at 06:03 PM.
#10
Get Money
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I used Fram's in my 440whp civic... Did me fine. Oil pressure was fine. I then used OEM until I found out how poorly they were made. I now only use Purolator in all my cars.
#11
Team Owner
Let's not forget Fram makes several different levels of filters. Some are pretty good.
I can only share my experience and this was with a modified oil system (GN) that sees extremely high cold oil pressures. The oiling system in these cars is a disaster (steel gear driven at half engine speed in an aluminum housing) because you lose significant pressure as it heats up. So back to the cold oil pressures, I see around 100psi at idle and an easy 120psi if I touch the throttle by accident. I had a regular Fram balloon on me and then I had another collapse internally killing a lot of my pressure.
Extreme conditions as I doubt the TL ever sees more than 60-70psi. However, I ran cheap AC Delco filters nearly forever and never had an issue making me think the low end Frams are inferior to the average cheap filter.
My father on the other hand has been running them for many years, still runs them on the daily drivers and never an issue.
Cut them apart and you'll see a non reinforced media with glued on cardboard end caps and a rubber adbv. What this means is they are probably fine on a stockish TL for a typical 3,000 mile oil change but I won't push the mileage.
And a little off topic but if you're going to spend more money on a premium filter, there are only 2 filters that stand out above the rest. Amsoil EAO and Royal Purple. Both use a synthetic media that filters better and at the same time flows better than the rest. The others like Mobil One and K&N are good filters but they're somewhere between the normal filter and the high end filters I mentioned.
I can only share my experience and this was with a modified oil system (GN) that sees extremely high cold oil pressures. The oiling system in these cars is a disaster (steel gear driven at half engine speed in an aluminum housing) because you lose significant pressure as it heats up. So back to the cold oil pressures, I see around 100psi at idle and an easy 120psi if I touch the throttle by accident. I had a regular Fram balloon on me and then I had another collapse internally killing a lot of my pressure.
Extreme conditions as I doubt the TL ever sees more than 60-70psi. However, I ran cheap AC Delco filters nearly forever and never had an issue making me think the low end Frams are inferior to the average cheap filter.
My father on the other hand has been running them for many years, still runs them on the daily drivers and never an issue.
Cut them apart and you'll see a non reinforced media with glued on cardboard end caps and a rubber adbv. What this means is they are probably fine on a stockish TL for a typical 3,000 mile oil change but I won't push the mileage.
And a little off topic but if you're going to spend more money on a premium filter, there are only 2 filters that stand out above the rest. Amsoil EAO and Royal Purple. Both use a synthetic media that filters better and at the same time flows better than the rest. The others like Mobil One and K&N are good filters but they're somewhere between the normal filter and the high end filters I mentioned.
#13
Team Owner
I actually prefer RP filters. If you compare the Beta ratios of both filters, the RP filters ever so slightly better. Both are about the same price. RP is available at PepBoys and supposedly they can be sold anywhere now that the exclusive contract with PepBoys is over but I haven't seen them anywhere else.
We both know the impact on engine longevity is going to be extremely small if measurable so it's up to you if you want to spend $16 on a filter. It's my OCD that makes me do it.
Amsoil of course has to be ordered unless you know of a local dealer. If you don't have a PepBoys nearby, I can send you one or bring it to Willow if you want.
#15
Advanced
Thread Starter
Babylou,
O'reilly is having a sale on oil and filters. They have M1 filters. They're down on 20th st SW. Here's the flier:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/cu...n=cur-ad-stack
Is FRAM the best filter? No. Is your engine going to blow up? No, there are plenty of people who use FRAMs with no issues whatsoever.
O'reilly is having a sale on oil and filters. They have M1 filters. They're down on 20th st SW. Here's the flier:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/cu...n=cur-ad-stack
Is FRAM the best filter? No. Is your engine going to blow up? No, there are plenty of people who use FRAMs with no issues whatsoever.
Let's not forget Fram makes several different levels of filters. Some are pretty good.
I can only share my experience and this was with a modified oil system (GN) that sees extremely high cold oil pressures. The oiling system in these cars is a disaster (steel gear driven at half engine speed in an aluminum housing) because you lose significant pressure as it heats up. So back to the cold oil pressures, I see around 100psi at idle and an easy 120psi if I touch the throttle by accident. I had a regular Fram balloon on me and then I had another collapse internally killing a lot of my pressure.
Extreme conditions as I doubt the TL ever sees more than 60-70psi. However, I ran cheap AC Delco filters nearly forever and never had an issue making me think the low end Frams are inferior to the average cheap filter.
My father on the other hand has been running them for many years, still runs them on the daily drivers and never an issue.
Cut them apart and you'll see a non reinforced media with glued on cardboard end caps and a rubber adbv. What this means is they are probably fine on a stockish TL for a typical 3,000 mile oil change but I won't push the mileage.
And a little off topic but if you're going to spend more money on a premium filter, there are only 2 filters that stand out above the rest. Amsoil EAO and Royal Purple. Both use a synthetic media that filters better and at the same time flows better than the rest. The others like Mobil One and K&N are good filters but they're somewhere between the normal filter and the high end filters I mentioned.
I can only share my experience and this was with a modified oil system (GN) that sees extremely high cold oil pressures. The oiling system in these cars is a disaster (steel gear driven at half engine speed in an aluminum housing) because you lose significant pressure as it heats up. So back to the cold oil pressures, I see around 100psi at idle and an easy 120psi if I touch the throttle by accident. I had a regular Fram balloon on me and then I had another collapse internally killing a lot of my pressure.
Extreme conditions as I doubt the TL ever sees more than 60-70psi. However, I ran cheap AC Delco filters nearly forever and never had an issue making me think the low end Frams are inferior to the average cheap filter.
My father on the other hand has been running them for many years, still runs them on the daily drivers and never an issue.
Cut them apart and you'll see a non reinforced media with glued on cardboard end caps and a rubber adbv. What this means is they are probably fine on a stockish TL for a typical 3,000 mile oil change but I won't push the mileage.
And a little off topic but if you're going to spend more money on a premium filter, there are only 2 filters that stand out above the rest. Amsoil EAO and Royal Purple. Both use a synthetic media that filters better and at the same time flows better than the rest. The others like Mobil One and K&N are good filters but they're somewhere between the normal filter and the high end filters I mentioned.
#16
Race Director
... But quick question I asked in a previous thread about changing my coolant since it's Florida rated and someone recommended I use Honda Type 2 100%, I went to the dealer today and they said that they don't make that anymore would 50/50 still be good enough up here?
Also, who told you it's FL rated? Our cars come with Honda Type 2 fluid in them. Did someone flush your system and put something else back in? And Honda type 2 is already pre-mixed as a 50/50 mixture good down to -36F (or close to that). You pour it in straight, no mixing.... It's blue in color (since 2004).
Last edited by nfnsquared; 01-04-2011 at 11:11 PM.
#18
Advanced
Thread Starter
Wally world has M1 filters as well....
That's funny, because I just checked with them today to be sure they had some type 2 available for my water pump/timing belt change out and they had plenty. Did you talk to Troy in parts? (and we're talking about Ryan (formerly Fisher) Honda, correct?).
Also, who told you it's FL rated? Our cars come with Honda Type 2 fluid in them. Did someone flush your system and put something else back in? And Honda type 2 is already pre-mixed as a 50/50 mixture good down to -36F (or close to that). You pour it in straight, no mixing.... It's blue in color (since 2004).
That's funny, because I just checked with them today to be sure they had some type 2 available for my water pump/timing belt change out and they had plenty. Did you talk to Troy in parts? (and we're talking about Ryan (formerly Fisher) Honda, correct?).
Also, who told you it's FL rated? Our cars come with Honda Type 2 fluid in them. Did someone flush your system and put something else back in? And Honda type 2 is already pre-mixed as a 50/50 mixture good down to -36F (or close to that). You pour it in straight, no mixing.... It's blue in color (since 2004).
#19
Race Director
I went to Wally World and didn't see M1...O well I'll look better next time.They said they only have 50/50 not "100" Type 2, Yea I talked to Troy he's the one that asked in the back but he said he'll look for me. I'm just guessing it's Florida rated I wasn't sure if they used a different type for Florida then here but I guess my coolant is fine. I bought it from a Acura dealership so It's all Honda products.
You can get the Purolator Pure 1 filter from Amazon for $5. Order 5 and get free shipping. I'm going to need more. If you want to split an order with me, shoot me a PM.
Yeah, no such thing as 100% Honda type 2. It's a 50/50 mix in the jug and you just pour it in as is. If your fluid is blue, it's most likely Honda Type 2 and you're fine for up here. You can have it tested at the auto hobby shop for freezing point if you want. Also, don't mix any other fluid with it. Only use more type 2. According to Acura/Honda, the fluid is good for 120,000 miles or xx months (there is a sticker on the underside of your hood with this information).
Last edited by nfnsquared; 01-04-2011 at 11:58 PM.
#21
Three Wheelin'
My civic was a 440whp Single cam D16z6, Sleeved, CP Pistons, Eagle rods, King Bearings ect... I was with most of you that i had used FRAM for everything (only EG) and my dad had used the cheap ones for 20+ years with no issues. Like IHC said they are cheap filters with cheap internals. I would spend the little extra for a WIX or M1. All i know is me and my family will never use FRAM ever again, not even on a lawn mower.
#22
Safety Car
iTrader: (3)
Fram has been around forever with great success even though the construction isn't the best. If you are good about changing the oil and filter, then it's probably not going to cause you any problems.
I am the type that goes overkill on everything I do so I tend to spend more just to satisfy my mind.
#23
Race Director
Everyone who has the dealer change their oil uses them with great success.
Fram has been around forever with great success even though the construction isn't the best. If you are good about changing the oil and filter, then it's probably not going to cause you any problems.
I am the type that goes overkill on everything I do so I tend to spend more just to satisfy my mind.
Fram has been around forever with great success even though the construction isn't the best. If you are good about changing the oil and filter, then it's probably not going to cause you any problems.
I am the type that goes overkill on everything I do so I tend to spend more just to satisfy my mind.
#24
Burning Brakes
And a little off topic but if you're going to spend more money on a premium filter, there are only 2 filters that stand out above the rest. Amsoil EAO and Royal Purple. Both use a synthetic media that filters better and at the same time flows better than the rest. The others like Mobil One and K&N are good filters but they're somewhere between the normal filter and the high end filters I mentioned.
OBJECTIVE:
Inform customers of an issue regarding the oil sensor trip-
ping in 2001-2010 Honda and 2002-2010 Acura vehicles.
ISSUES:
A small number of customers with affected vehicles have
reported their vehicles’ oil pressure lights have illuminated
prior to reaching the end of the AMSOIL-recommended
25,000-mile change interval.
TECHNICAL DISCUSSION:
To protect the engine, the OEM engineered the oil pres-
sure sensor to trigger the oil light when there is insufficient
oil pressure to maintain an adequate level of protection.
Each filter is equipped with a by-pass valve, so when the
filter is at or close to capacity, the engine is continually
supplied with adequate lubrication oil, although unfiltered.
However, if the filter reaches maximum capacity, the level
of restriction can become significant enough to trigger the
oil pressure warning light. In extreme situations, oil star-
vation can occur. Premature oil filter capacity can be at-
tributed to a number of factors such as poor air filtration, a
leaking air intake system or excessive contaminants being
produced in the combustion process.
RECOMMENDATION:
AMSOIL recommends changing the EaO13 Oil Filter ac-
cording to OEM-recommended intervals in the following
applications:
• 2001-2010 Honda
• 2002-2010 Acura
• 1992-2006 Chrysler imports
• 1993-1997 Ford Probe
• 1996-2010 Nissan/Infiniti
• 1971-2000 Mazda
• 1999-2000 Mercury Villager
• 1990-2010 Mitsubishi
• 2004-2007 Saturn
#25
Team Owner
The Amsoil Ea013 causes issues in some Acuras...This is what Amsoil emailed me when i inquired why they dont sell that filter for the TL anymore (or not recommned it) a few months back...
OBJECTIVE:
Inform customers of an issue regarding the oil sensor trip-
ping in 2001-2010 Honda and 2002-2010 Acura vehicles.
ISSUES:
A small number of customers with affected vehicles have
reported their vehicles’ oil pressure lights have illuminated
prior to reaching the end of the AMSOIL-recommended
25,000-mile change interval.
TECHNICAL DISCUSSION:
To protect the engine, the OEM engineered the oil pres-
sure sensor to trigger the oil light when there is insufficient
oil pressure to maintain an adequate level of protection.
Each filter is equipped with a by-pass valve, so when the
filter is at or close to capacity, the engine is continually
supplied with adequate lubrication oil, although unfiltered.
However, if the filter reaches maximum capacity, the level
of restriction can become significant enough to trigger the
oil pressure warning light. In extreme situations, oil star-
vation can occur. Premature oil filter capacity can be at-
tributed to a number of factors such as poor air filtration, a
leaking air intake system or excessive contaminants being
produced in the combustion process.
RECOMMENDATION:
AMSOIL recommends changing the EaO13 Oil Filter ac-
cording to OEM-recommended intervals in the following
applications:
• 2001-2010 Honda
• 2002-2010 Acura
• 1992-2006 Chrysler imports
• 1993-1997 Ford Probe
• 1996-2010 Nissan/Infiniti
• 1971-2000 Mazda
• 1999-2000 Mercury Villager
• 1990-2010 Mitsubishi
• 2004-2007 Saturn
OBJECTIVE:
Inform customers of an issue regarding the oil sensor trip-
ping in 2001-2010 Honda and 2002-2010 Acura vehicles.
ISSUES:
A small number of customers with affected vehicles have
reported their vehicles’ oil pressure lights have illuminated
prior to reaching the end of the AMSOIL-recommended
25,000-mile change interval.
TECHNICAL DISCUSSION:
To protect the engine, the OEM engineered the oil pres-
sure sensor to trigger the oil light when there is insufficient
oil pressure to maintain an adequate level of protection.
Each filter is equipped with a by-pass valve, so when the
filter is at or close to capacity, the engine is continually
supplied with adequate lubrication oil, although unfiltered.
However, if the filter reaches maximum capacity, the level
of restriction can become significant enough to trigger the
oil pressure warning light. In extreme situations, oil star-
vation can occur. Premature oil filter capacity can be at-
tributed to a number of factors such as poor air filtration, a
leaking air intake system or excessive contaminants being
produced in the combustion process.
RECOMMENDATION:
AMSOIL recommends changing the EaO13 Oil Filter ac-
cording to OEM-recommended intervals in the following
applications:
• 2001-2010 Honda
• 2002-2010 Acura
• 1992-2006 Chrysler imports
• 1993-1997 Ford Probe
• 1996-2010 Nissan/Infiniti
• 1971-2000 Mazda
• 1999-2000 Mercury Villager
• 1990-2010 Mitsubishi
• 2004-2007 Saturn
#27
Team Owner
Yep. Its the s-2000 filter. That's the only one I've run on the tl in various brands. Ironically the stock size tl filter is the oversized filter for the gf's Murano.
#28
takin care of Business in
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where in Inaccurate when you need him LOL....
I had a conversation with him recently and he mentioned the following to me...
i hope he doesnt mind me quoting an email....also....i dont know what FRAM filter he was mentioning...it could be the TG or the regular one....
I had a conversation with him recently and he mentioned the following to me...
I leave the same filter in the whole time, which is 6 or 6.5k miles. I fully trust the Fram. In the beginning, I would do an inspect on it by cutting it open after changing the oil. The inspection showed that the Fram was in like new condition. I did this for about 4 times each time I changed my oil. Each time, the Fram looked like new. I then learned to trust it. I have full confidence in Fram.
Getting back to why Fram -
What is worse?
An engine to have small microscopic dirt in the oil
-OR-
An engine to experience oil starvation?
The answer by a WIDE MARGIN is oil starvation. You do NOT want the oil delivery to be restrictive. The engine will die VERY QUICK with a drop in oil pressure. Those fancy oil filters are too restrictive !!!
Oil filters are all about marketing. People want to read advertisement about how the filter traps microscopic particles. So, the companies make filters that can trap microscopic particles.
The problem is that these filters are VERY restrictive. And, they have piss-poor bypass valves that do not allow the oil to flow pass the restrictive paper media. There is a huge pressure drop being caused by these fancy BS filters.
And an engine will die VERY QUICK with too little oil pressure.
Whereas, having some reasonable amount of microscopic dirt in the oil is basically harmless..
For proof, I remind you of this again. The guy that created BobIsTheOilGuy uses the cheap Fram for the reasons that I stated. Needless to say, he is very knowledgeable about this topic, thus he created his BobIsTheOilGuy forum.
Here is the link
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...=829227&page=1
Quote From Bob
Getting back to why Fram -
What is worse?
An engine to have small microscopic dirt in the oil
-OR-
An engine to experience oil starvation?
The answer by a WIDE MARGIN is oil starvation. You do NOT want the oil delivery to be restrictive. The engine will die VERY QUICK with a drop in oil pressure. Those fancy oil filters are too restrictive !!!
Oil filters are all about marketing. People want to read advertisement about how the filter traps microscopic particles. So, the companies make filters that can trap microscopic particles.
The problem is that these filters are VERY restrictive. And, they have piss-poor bypass valves that do not allow the oil to flow pass the restrictive paper media. There is a huge pressure drop being caused by these fancy BS filters.
And an engine will die VERY QUICK with too little oil pressure.
Whereas, having some reasonable amount of microscopic dirt in the oil is basically harmless..
For proof, I remind you of this again. The guy that created BobIsTheOilGuy uses the cheap Fram for the reasons that I stated. Needless to say, he is very knowledgeable about this topic, thus he created his BobIsTheOilGuy forum.
Here is the link
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...=829227&page=1
Quote From Bob
#29
Safety Car
^ hey, don't drag me into this
Above, the linky does not work. Here it is below -
Here is the link
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...=829227&page=1
Quote From Bob
You do NOT want my advise on oil filters. I am on a different page that 99% of the people.
I use Fram. I use the cheap basic model too. Not their fantasy pantsy newer models of Fram filters.
Why? Because to me the most important thing is that the oil is able TO FLOW thru the filter paper media and/or that the bypass mechanism works to allow the oil to freely flow past the paper media.
I have tested all of the oil filters. I tested the flow rates thru the paper media and I tested the bypass valve opening pressure and flow rate thru the bypass valve of all the popular filters.
It is the bypass valve that is crap on nearly all brands of filters. It requires a lot of pressure to get those bypass valves to open. Then on many of those, once opened, will not flow sufficient volume of oil thru the bypass valve. The Puralotor design (used by many other brands too) is the worst offender in this regard.
Like I mentioned in my other post. I enjoy racing. This includes when my oil has not had time to fully warm-up on cold days. I feel better knowing that the oil can EASILY go thru the Fram bypass valve with very little pressure drop. That is, the engine will not see a large pressure drop when the oil is not yet warmed-up while I am hitting 6500 RPM. The cheap Fram has the easiest bypass to open and once opened Fram bypass valve outflows the others by a large margin. The cheap Fram has the highest flowing paper media too (the least restrictive). Although the Fram uses cardboard, that cardboard is in like-new conditioned every time I have cut open my used Fram filter. Oil does not breakdown cardboard like water does.... if that is the mental image that you have.
The only brand/model that meet my requirements is the Fram PH3593A..
The greatest website on oil is BobTheOilGuy. The founder of that website ironically uses Fram filters too for the same reason.
By the way, here are my pics so you know that I have done some firsthand research
Above, the linky does not work. Here it is below -
Here is the link
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...=829227&page=1
Quote From Bob
why are you using an oil filter to begin with? do you think it keeps the oil clean? or maybe your putting junk in your oil so the filter works for you. I look for flow and as I pointed out, the longer you use a filter the more filtration it has cause the longer it stays on the filter media gets closer together as the hot oil passes through the media.
so do I think there is better values out there? I'm sure there is but I found that the cheapest Fram's out there do just fine. those of you that put garbage in your oil, I'd suggest that you use a high end filter as you probably need it.
so do I think there is better values out there? I'm sure there is but I found that the cheapest Fram's out there do just fine. those of you that put garbage in your oil, I'd suggest that you use a high end filter as you probably need it.
I use Fram. I use the cheap basic model too. Not their fantasy pantsy newer models of Fram filters.
Why? Because to me the most important thing is that the oil is able TO FLOW thru the filter paper media and/or that the bypass mechanism works to allow the oil to freely flow past the paper media.
I have tested all of the oil filters. I tested the flow rates thru the paper media and I tested the bypass valve opening pressure and flow rate thru the bypass valve of all the popular filters.
It is the bypass valve that is crap on nearly all brands of filters. It requires a lot of pressure to get those bypass valves to open. Then on many of those, once opened, will not flow sufficient volume of oil thru the bypass valve. The Puralotor design (used by many other brands too) is the worst offender in this regard.
Like I mentioned in my other post. I enjoy racing. This includes when my oil has not had time to fully warm-up on cold days. I feel better knowing that the oil can EASILY go thru the Fram bypass valve with very little pressure drop. That is, the engine will not see a large pressure drop when the oil is not yet warmed-up while I am hitting 6500 RPM. The cheap Fram has the easiest bypass to open and once opened Fram bypass valve outflows the others by a large margin. The cheap Fram has the highest flowing paper media too (the least restrictive). Although the Fram uses cardboard, that cardboard is in like-new conditioned every time I have cut open my used Fram filter. Oil does not breakdown cardboard like water does.... if that is the mental image that you have.
The only brand/model that meet my requirements is the Fram PH3593A..
The greatest website on oil is BobTheOilGuy. The founder of that website ironically uses Fram filters too for the same reason.
By the way, here are my pics so you know that I have done some firsthand research
Last edited by Inaccurate; 01-05-2011 at 04:09 PM.
#30
takin care of Business in
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sorry bro....i had to drag you into this for some great information for everyone....i was a victim of $12 filters for the longest time....
next oil change an redline + fram 7.5K miles interval
next oil change an redline + fram 7.5K miles interval
#32
takin care of Business in
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ours....3g TL....
#36
Safety Car
Another problem with the other brands is that they change the construction/materials very often. You never really know what you are getting. How do I do? I discovered this while I was testing the many filters.
I would buy a Brand X today and test. A month later, I would buy the same Brand X and then find it different than the one the month before.
With the basic Fram, it is like McDonalds. You always know what to expect from day to day, from batch to batch.
How anal am I about my oil filter? Once I had decided that I would only use the basic Fram, I purchase approx 40 filters OF THE SAME BATCH NUMBER.
I have been using that batch of basic Frams for the past five years on my car and the wife's RL.
I would buy a Brand X today and test. A month later, I would buy the same Brand X and then find it different than the one the month before.
With the basic Fram, it is like McDonalds. You always know what to expect from day to day, from batch to batch.
How anal am I about my oil filter? Once I had decided that I would only use the basic Fram, I purchase approx 40 filters OF THE SAME BATCH NUMBER.
I have been using that batch of basic Frams for the past five years on my car and the wife's RL.
#37
Safety Car
It is the biggest that I found. Any longer would get smashed by the lower control arm during suspension compression.
#38
Burning Brakes
Whoops, my bad. Yea, i used to use the Ea013 and i never got the indicator light like some reported. Then again, my oil stayed in about 3000 miles (i change every six months since i dont drive the car that often).
Last edited by ankur914; 01-05-2011 at 05:04 PM.