Foglight wiring help? i'm lost
#1
Foglight wiring help? i'm lost
ebay accord fogs, installed on the car which was NOT fun! now comes the electric part of it, which i'm a idiot on. any idea what these wires are for, i already grounded the black wire to the car, i just want to see them come on so i can adjust them before i mount the bumper. i tried the red wire to the positive side of the battery but it did nothing, the yellow wire made a clicking noise when i touched it with the positive. any help would be awesome..
#2
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/diy-ebay-accord-foglight-wiring-708309/
it was just a few threads down...
it was just a few threads down...
#5
#6
ebay accord fogs, installed on the car which was NOT fun! now comes the electric part of it, which i'm a idiot on. any idea what these wires are for, i already grounded the black wire to the car, i just want to see them come on so i can adjust them before i mount the bumper. i tried the red wire to the positive side of the battery but it did nothing, the yellow wire made a clicking noise when i touched it with the positive. any help would be awesome..
It looks like you have a relay for each lamp. (left and right)
I'm guessing that the green an blue wires with the brown plug are the main positive (high current) power wires. If they are, you would connect them to the positive battery terminal (be sure to use an inline fuse at the battery) or you can connect them to the power terminal in the fuse box under the hood. (See the photo in my "Grate Grin" thread). Remember to use an inline fuse if you choose to go this route.
The other three loose wires, yellow, red and white may go to the dash board switch. You said the yellow wire made a clicking noise. Sounds like the yellow is triggering the relays. Hold the relays in your hand and touch the yellow to the positive to see if both relays are ticking. If they do then the yellow supposed to run to your dash switch. (The switch included with the accord fog light kit)
I can't really tell you what the other two (red and white) wire go. My guess is that one of them is to illuminate the L.E.D. in the switch. Personally I thought the LED was too bright and I don't use it.
WARNING: Do not connect the L.E.D. wire to your existing dash lights. This can burn out the $800.00 illumination control unit built into the instrument cluster. Trust me on this tip.
The other wire may be a 12volt supply wire that should be connected to a 12volt source. I just can't tell you which is which. My 12volt supply wire for the Accord dash switch is connected to the parking light wire under my dash. Again, see my "Grate Grin" thread for a photo of the location. By doing this, you can run your foglights with parking lights on and your headlights off.
Remember, these are only guesses or suggestions to what those wires are. Be careful with your testing and be sure of your connections. You don't want to have your fog lights turning into "Smoke Lights."
Looking through the Grate Grin thread I noticed that someone else posted a picture of the same harness you have. You might be able to get a response from him.
Good Luck.
#7
the yellow wire trigged one relay and when i put the blue/green togther and touched the + it triggered the other relay
i'm wanting to turn the fog lights on when i use the intergrated switch on the factory foglights that come integrated into the 05 headlights. possible?
i'm wanting to turn the fog lights on when i use the intergrated switch on the factory foglights that come integrated into the 05 headlights. possible?
Last edited by EVOLICARUS; 02-14-2009 at 07:47 PM.
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#10
From the schematic, your white and red might be the positive(high current) wires and the blue and green might be grounds.
Yellow is still the switch trigger.
Some of the other plugs on the switch harness were designed for the Accord. They probably won't be used. Looks like you might have to figure out the wiring at the switch too and do your own cutting and splicing.
Are you going to be using the Accord switch on your dash? If not, you might be able to trigger the relays with one of your TL fog lights. Keep in mind that some state laws only allow you to run up to 4 white lights, headlamps and fog/aux. lights at the same time.
Yellow is still the switch trigger.
Some of the other plugs on the switch harness were designed for the Accord. They probably won't be used. Looks like you might have to figure out the wiring at the switch too and do your own cutting and splicing.
Are you going to be using the Accord switch on your dash? If not, you might be able to trigger the relays with one of your TL fog lights. Keep in mind that some state laws only allow you to run up to 4 white lights, headlamps and fog/aux. lights at the same time.
#11
From the schematic, your white and red might be the positive(high current) wires and the blue and green might be grounds.
Yellow is still the switch trigger.
Some of the other plugs on the switch harness were designed for the Accord. They probably won't be used. Looks like you might have to figure out the wiring at the switch too and do your own cutting and splicing.
Are you going to be using the Accord switch on your dash? If not, you might be able to trigger the relays with one of your TL fog lights. Keep in mind that some state laws only allow you to run up to 4 white lights, headlamps and fog/aux. lights at the same time.
Yellow is still the switch trigger.
Some of the other plugs on the switch harness were designed for the Accord. They probably won't be used. Looks like you might have to figure out the wiring at the switch too and do your own cutting and splicing.
Are you going to be using the Accord switch on your dash? If not, you might be able to trigger the relays with one of your TL fog lights. Keep in mind that some state laws only allow you to run up to 4 white lights, headlamps and fog/aux. lights at the same time.
i just figured the second harness would be useless since i'm not using the accord switch.
why can't wires be labeled on the acutal wire what it is, but i guess these are made for the accord and not the tl
#12
if the red and white wire are the high current wires, do i just ground the blue and green togther to the - side or to the frame. and would i just run the red and white wires to the parking light wires, if so, how would i wire the red/white wires to the parking lights? and where does the yellow wire go? sorry for all the dumbass questions.. i'm really piss poor at this wiring stuff
#13
if the red and white wire are the high current wires, do i just ground the blue and green togther to the - side or to the frame. and would i just run the red and white wires to the parking light wires, if so, how would i wire the red/white wires to the parking lights? and where does the yellow wire go? sorry for all the dumbass questions.. i'm really piss poor at this wiring stuff
If the red and white wires are in fact the high current power wires to the foglights, do not connect them to the parking light wires. The parking light circuit may not have enough juice to run the fogs. They need to be connected to a main source of power like the battery terminal with an inline fuse.
Here is a way to test your lights. You can use any battery from a car, motorcycle or lawnmower for this test.
Connect the green and blue wire to the negative terminal on your battery. A temporary connection with a clothespin will work.
Connect the red and white wire to an inline fuse and then connect the fuse to the positive terminal on your battery.
Now to get the relay to close the circuit and turn on your lights, tap the yellow wire on the positive battery terminal. You should hear the relays tick and the fogs should light up. The yellow wire is the only one that might give you a little spark and this is OK as long as the fogs light up.
This is only a way to test the lights and it should be done with caution. When you first make any wire connection, tap the contact point an make sure you don't get any sparks, blowing fuses or hot wires.
You don't have to disconnect your car battery to do the test but if you decide to disconnect the battery, be sure to have your radio and navigation system codes written down somewhere.
Let us know if this works.
#14
You need to test the fog lights before making any permanent connections to your TL.
If the red and white wires are in fact the high current power wires to the foglights, do not connect them to the parking light wires. The parking light circuit may not have enough juice to run the fogs. They need to be connected to a main source of power like the battery terminal with an inline fuse.
Here is a way to test your lights. You can use any battery from a car, motorcycle or lawnmower for this test.
Connect the green and blue wire to the negative terminal on your battery. A temporary connection with a clothespin will work.
Connect the red and white wire to an inline fuse and then connect the fuse to the positive terminal on your battery.
Now to get the relay to close the circuit and turn on your lights, tap the yellow wire on the positive battery terminal. You should hear the relays tick and the fogs should light up. The yellow wire is the only one that might give you a little spark and this is OK as long as the fogs light up.
This is only a way to test the lights and it should be done with caution. When you first make any wire connection, tap the contact point an make sure you don't get any sparks, blowing fuses or hot wires.
You don't have to disconnect your car battery to do the test but if you decide to disconnect the battery, be sure to have your radio and navigation system codes written down somewhere.
Let us know if this works.
If the red and white wires are in fact the high current power wires to the foglights, do not connect them to the parking light wires. The parking light circuit may not have enough juice to run the fogs. They need to be connected to a main source of power like the battery terminal with an inline fuse.
Here is a way to test your lights. You can use any battery from a car, motorcycle or lawnmower for this test.
Connect the green and blue wire to the negative terminal on your battery. A temporary connection with a clothespin will work.
Connect the red and white wire to an inline fuse and then connect the fuse to the positive terminal on your battery.
Now to get the relay to close the circuit and turn on your lights, tap the yellow wire on the positive battery terminal. You should hear the relays tick and the fogs should light up. The yellow wire is the only one that might give you a little spark and this is OK as long as the fogs light up.
This is only a way to test the lights and it should be done with caution. When you first make any wire connection, tap the contact point an make sure you don't get any sparks, blowing fuses or hot wires.
You don't have to disconnect your car battery to do the test but if you decide to disconnect the battery, be sure to have your radio and navigation system codes written down somewhere.
Let us know if this works.
thanks alot crook!!!!
#15
put the green/blue at the - and hooked up the red/white wire to + and ran the yellow to the + also, nothing happened,
then ran the yellow to - and it triggered the relay, the green/blue triggered the other relay when touching -. had the red/white wire on + while the yellow blue and green where on - and nothing..
dammm
then ran the yellow to - and it triggered the relay, the green/blue triggered the other relay when touching -. had the red/white wire on + while the yellow blue and green where on - and nothing..
dammm
#16
put the green/blue at the - and hooked up the red/white wire to + and ran the yellow to the + also, nothing happened,
then ran the yellow to - and it triggered the relay, the green/blue triggered the other relay when touching -. had the red/white wire on + while the yellow blue and green where on - and nothing..
dammm
then ran the yellow to - and it triggered the relay, the green/blue triggered the other relay when touching -. had the red/white wire on + while the yellow blue and green where on - and nothing..
dammm
Also, make sure you have both fog lights grounded or they won't light up. There should be a ground wire on the harness near both of the fog lights. If you have a ground wire for each light, ground them both to the negative battery terminal or your vehicle chasis if you didn't disconnect your battery from the vehicle.
First determine which wires trigger each relay and then you can figure out what the other wires are from the relay. Two of the wires will be the input/output 12volt load wires.
#18
almost fried the car.. LOL!! but not really.. i did some quick touch wiring to figure these wires out and the wires started to smoke, i had wire cutters in one hand and cut the wire harness and was left with 2 wires that come straight from the fogs, black and red/blue.
made it simple only 2 wires remain, how hard can it be to wire these to a switch now? any ideas on how to run 2 wires to a switch
pics
crap harness that got cut
after i cut the harness only 2 wires remain. black and red/blue
when i connected both wires i got this
made it simple only 2 wires remain, how hard can it be to wire these to a switch now? any ideas on how to run 2 wires to a switch
pics
crap harness that got cut
after i cut the harness only 2 wires remain. black and red/blue
when i connected both wires i got this
#20
i worked around the lip, i just put some scotch blue painters tape around the top of the lip, and cut a little bit of the bottom of the fogs and it fit right over the lip. i sat the fogs behind the lip (most people have the fogs resting on the lip) i didn't want to have the fogs scratch up the lip. a little more recessed but it still looks pretty good.
the easiest part was cutting, just took some time. i would've been done in about 4 hrs, but my handsaw snapped, had to run to lowes and pick up another one.
any advice on how to run both these wires to a switch?
#22
almost fried the car.. LOL!! but not really.. i did some quick touch wiring to figure these wires out and the wires started to smoke, i had wire cutters in one hand and cut the wire harness and was left with 2 wires that come straight from the fogs, black and red/blue.
made it simple only 2 wires remain, how hard can it be to wire these to a switch now? any ideas on how to run 2 wires to a switch
made it simple only 2 wires remain, how hard can it be to wire these to a switch now? any ideas on how to run 2 wires to a switch
Just make sure you use fuses on the positive wire to your foglights and positive wire to your switch.
#23
finally got everything done and must say it was an adventure. Threw out the honda harness and relays and started over with new relays and switches. I need to make the switch flush still, but hey, i'm done wiring and done fabricating
thanks for all the help guys.
thanks for all the help guys.
#24
I just now got done mounting these fog lights and let me tell you, it wasn't that bad at all . All it takes is patience and time. But all in all, it was an adventure but I'm glad I did it.
Now I'm on the same boat as you were with the wiring (same harness). What power source did you tap in to? and did you figure out what the yellow/red/white wire is?
Now I'm on the same boat as you were with the wiring (same harness). What power source did you tap in to? and did you figure out what the yellow/red/white wire is?
#25
^^^ i threw out that harness, seriously i threw it away and started over with a new relay, and ran the relay to the switch. took the ground from the fogs to the chassis and the positive to the relay, then the relay had 4 wires, ground, positive ( to the battery) hot lead power from the fogs and the switch power wire. ran the switch wire from the relay through the firewall, and had a switch with 3 male ends, ran the ground from the switch to a bolt under the steering wheel, ran power (constant) from the switch to a constant hot fuse in the fuse box ( power windows) and the wire from the relay to the other male end of the switch...
#27
i would still like to use the accord fog switch though. if there is a way to wire up the accord switch to ground, power and the relay switch wire i would do that.
#28
this accord harness that came with out kits is GHEY! I know for sure red is the contant power line. The 2 wires for the relay when wired with the red turns it on. But I can't figure out how to turn it off. I'm just going to do it your way and eliminate all the other wires but I'll run it to the fog fuse.
#30
this accord harness that came with out kits is GHEY! I know for sure red is the contant power line. The 2 wires for the relay when wired with the red turns it on. But I can't figure out how to turn it off. I'm just going to do it your way and eliminate all the other wires but I'll run it to the fog fuse.
#32
Thanks bro but I spent most of this morning wiring it up to my fogs. Like evolicarous did, I cut the relays and other wiring out and only used the wires that were running to the fogs. I took a trip to radioshack and picked up a relay and inline fuse and ran that directly to the stock fog light wire. Works like a charm like it was OEM.
#33
Looks good bro! Careful though with those ebay fogs and using hid's, ive heard the lens melts. I decided to go with the Honda accord O.E stuff. It ran me about $220 but was worth the money. I'm also running 3k yellow zenons and haven't had a single lens problem. My switch looks like this
#34
^^^Awesome.
It looks like there is an area where fogs would have gone by your first pictures, so are they nice and level/even? I was wondering how the heck you could just put fogs in without an actual brace/mount.
This is a must DO MOD. I just hate wiring in cars.
The bulbs you have look plenty bright/white, why would you want anything more?
It looks like there is an area where fogs would have gone by your first pictures, so are they nice and level/even? I was wondering how the heck you could just put fogs in without an actual brace/mount.
This is a must DO MOD. I just hate wiring in cars.
The bulbs you have look plenty bright/white, why would you want anything more?
#35
Looks good bro! Careful though with those ebay fogs and using hid's, ive heard the lens melts. I decided to go with the Honda accord O.E stuff. It ran me about $220 but was worth the money. I'm also running 3k yellow zenons and haven't had a single lens problem. My switch looks like this
just installed the accord switch, but the light is orange. anyway of changing the color in the switch?
#36
^^^Looks great!
Could you PLEASE draw a wiring diagram for me??? PLEASE. I want to hook up just a switch and mount a switch like you did, but you said you also bought a relay? I still don't understand what a relay is for. You have a bulb, a switch, 12 volts and a ground. WHATS with the relay?
Could you PLEASE draw a wiring diagram for me??? PLEASE. I want to hook up just a switch and mount a switch like you did, but you said you also bought a relay? I still don't understand what a relay is for. You have a bulb, a switch, 12 volts and a ground. WHATS with the relay?
#37
^^^Looks great!
Could you PLEASE draw a wiring diagram for me??? PLEASE. I want to hook up just a switch and mount a switch like you did, but you said you also bought a relay? I still don't understand what a relay is for. You have a bulb, a switch, 12 volts and a ground. WHATS with the relay?
Could you PLEASE draw a wiring diagram for me??? PLEASE. I want to hook up just a switch and mount a switch like you did, but you said you also bought a relay? I still don't understand what a relay is for. You have a bulb, a switch, 12 volts and a ground. WHATS with the relay?
easiest way is to go to o'rileys and they have a relay kit, it comes with everything you need.
1. 2 wires coming from fogs. ground goes to a bolt to the frame of the car, and power goes into the relay
2. power from the relay goes to + side of the battery (inline fuse attached)
3. ground from the relay goes to any metal bolt on the car
4. switch wire from relay goes into the switch inside the car
5. ground the switch
6. tap into parking light wire from switch.
done
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