First Oil Change Question
Factory does not say 7500, change it when the MID tells you to. When the MID says Service Due Soon, usually when oil life is < 10% or 15%, its time to change it. The notification comes up at 15% to give you a well in advance indication.
There have been many, many lengthly treads on this subject. Quite a few people have done the first change at around 2,000 miles and then had an oil analysis done. Results of the analysis indicated the early old change was prudent. That's why I did my first one at 2,400 miles. Even though I didn't have an analysis done it was some pretty nasty looking stuff.
HOWEVER, the experts also point out that the factory break-in oil has a high molybdium (sp?) content which assists the break-in process. Road Rage, who appears quite the expert, recommends after an early oil change to add a bottle of Valvaline Max-life Engine Extender. He says this makes the new, non-factory oil assume an almost identical chemistry to the factory break-in stuff. I also did that.
Yes, Valvaline MLEE is advertised for high-mileage engines but remember you are adding it for the Molybdium content.
Several of the experts also say that the break-in period is essentially complete by about 6,000 miles. So, I'll probably wind up having done the moly thing once, maybe twice.
Some of the treads I mentioned are probably still accessable. Use the search feature to find them.
Hope this helps.
HOWEVER, the experts also point out that the factory break-in oil has a high molybdium (sp?) content which assists the break-in process. Road Rage, who appears quite the expert, recommends after an early oil change to add a bottle of Valvaline Max-life Engine Extender. He says this makes the new, non-factory oil assume an almost identical chemistry to the factory break-in stuff. I also did that.
Yes, Valvaline MLEE is advertised for high-mileage engines but remember you are adding it for the Molybdium content.
Several of the experts also say that the break-in period is essentially complete by about 6,000 miles. So, I'll probably wind up having done the moly thing once, maybe twice.
Some of the treads I mentioned are probably still accessable. Use the search feature to find them.
Hope this helps.
Havoline 5w-20 API SM/ILSAC GF-4 is superior to a conventional 5w-20+MLEP.
Havoline contains enough molybdenum out of the bottle, reducing the need to add the MLEP; the MLEP will cause needless thickening and skew FTIR readings if you decide to perform an oil analysis.
My stand on the topic has always been to dump it ASAP, preferably within 1000-1500 miles.
Michael
Havoline contains enough molybdenum out of the bottle, reducing the need to add the MLEP; the MLEP will cause needless thickening and skew FTIR readings if you decide to perform an oil analysis.
My stand on the topic has always been to dump it ASAP, preferably within 1000-1500 miles.
Michael
I agree with Michael.....I waited until my MID just switched to <20%. then had my oil analysis done. The analysis showed...ask Michael if you want the technical details, that the oil was shot, full of wear metals, and should have been changed much earlier. If I had to do it again, I would have went with my old gut instinct and changed the factory oil at 1000-1500 miles. Screw the MID!!! GET THAT FACTORY FILL OIL OUT OF YOUR CAR!!...btw...the car had 4765 miles on the OD when it switched from30% to <20% MID. I was told by the dealer(aka mechanic) to wait until the MID was at <10% to change because of some sort of mystery "break-in additive"....bullshoot!!! I'm pissed I waited...you only have one new engine to break-in..and oil is cheap.
took mine out at 1000 miles and what do you know - it is still running fine at 21k. Keep the oil fresh is the bottom line - use regular oil, use synthetic, whatever makes you happy - just don't leave it in longer than it should be.
Mods - maybe we should have a separate category just about oil threads - ????
Mods - maybe we should have a separate category just about oil threads - ????
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[QUOTE=Michael Wan]Havoline 5w-20 API SM/ILSAC GF-4 is superior to a conventional 5w-20+MLEP.
True, I noted that discussion, but the moly content was only verified for the 5w-30 as I recall. Someone said we needed a followup on whether the 5w-20 had the same content. You seem to indicate that it does.
Problem for me, in Southern California, I cannot find Havoline products anywhere. It's all Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil and Chevron. If anyone knows of a Havoline supplier in the L.A. or Orange County area, I'm all ears.
True, I noted that discussion, but the moly content was only verified for the 5w-30 as I recall. Someone said we needed a followup on whether the 5w-20 had the same content. You seem to indicate that it does.
Problem for me, in Southern California, I cannot find Havoline products anywhere. It's all Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil and Chevron. If anyone knows of a Havoline supplier in the L.A. or Orange County area, I'm all ears.
[QUOTE=CFIMIKE]
XpDitor donated the Havoline 5w-20 API SM/ILSAC GF-4 and Mark Mathy's of Butler CAT Labs ran the oil free-of-charge:

Here is a VOA of the Havoline 5w-30 API SM/ILSAC GF-4:

Note that the 5w-20 contains MORE Moly than 5w-30. Factory fill contains about 300ppm. Chevron is quite similiar to Havoline, but Havoline does have a slight edge.
The 5w-20 is SM even though the lab said it was SL, SL was printed on the bottle since the quart was manufactured before Havoline was allowed to print SM on the label, even though it met SM specs. The back label said the oil met SM specs though.
Michael
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
Havoline 5w-20 API SM/ILSAC GF-4 is superior to a conventional 5w-20+MLEP.
True, I noted that discussion, but the moly content was only verified for the 5w-30 as I recall. Someone said we needed a followup on whether the 5w-20 had the same content. You seem to indicate that it does.
Problem for me, in Southern California, I cannot find Havoline products anywhere. It's all Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil and Chevron. If anyone knows of a Havoline supplier in the L.A. or Orange County area, I'm all ears.
True, I noted that discussion, but the moly content was only verified for the 5w-30 as I recall. Someone said we needed a followup on whether the 5w-20 had the same content. You seem to indicate that it does.
Problem for me, in Southern California, I cannot find Havoline products anywhere. It's all Valvoline, Castrol, Mobil and Chevron. If anyone knows of a Havoline supplier in the L.A. or Orange County area, I'm all ears.

Here is a VOA of the Havoline 5w-30 API SM/ILSAC GF-4:

Note that the 5w-20 contains MORE Moly than 5w-30. Factory fill contains about 300ppm. Chevron is quite similiar to Havoline, but Havoline does have a slight edge.
The 5w-20 is SM even though the lab said it was SL, SL was printed on the bottle since the quart was manufactured before Havoline was allowed to print SM on the label, even though it met SM specs. The back label said the oil met SM specs though.
Michael
I'd like to see what the ill effects are, if any, that are definitely observable, with waiting until the MID gets to ~10-15%. I currently have about 2900 miles on my 05AT, so I'm all ears and eyes right now..
Originally Posted by TLTrance
I'd like to see what the ill effects are, if any, that are definitely observable, with waiting until the MID gets to ~10-15%. I currently have about 2900 miles on my 05AT, so I'm all ears and eyes right now.. 

I am currently using M1 5w-30 with a M1 filter. I will be chaning every 5k-6k regardless of what the MID says... FWIW...
Originally Posted by TLTrance
I'd like to see what the ill effects are, if any, that are definitely observable, with waiting until the MID gets to ~10-15%. I currently have about 2900 miles on my 05AT, so I'm all ears and eyes right now.. 

Originally Posted by Jack_TL
Hello guys ..
I have done my first oil change at 5500 mile (< 5%). After reading all these comments, I'm bit worried now .. Next time on, I'll be doing at 30-20% MID ..
Any comments ..
I have done my first oil change at 5500 mile (< 5%). After reading all these comments, I'm bit worried now .. Next time on, I'll be doing at 30-20% MID ..
Any comments ..
crashish: It will be a longer time before you can start extending drains past 5,000 miles on your engine, simply because you will have to do several short intervals to flush out the excess wear metals from your engine. No, not a death sentence.
darkwraith33: Use a 20wt please.
ntaylor: TBN of 1.6 shows plenty of active additive remaining, depending on the oil. Blackstone has a very conservative method of reading TBN, they use the ASTM D-4739 method. OAI/CTC uses the D-2896 method, and Holt-Cat and Butler CAT uses the Dexil methods. Dexil and D-2896 methods will produce higher TBN readings than Blackstone, your TBN would most likely read 3-3.5 on those two scales. I'll make more comments on your UOA in another thread.
Jack_TL: Do the next two oil changes when the MID says 50% remaining to speed the internal cleanup of the engine. Then, follow the MID and use LC at 1 oz/quart at the oil change and 1 oz/1,000 miles.
Michael
darkwraith33: Use a 20wt please.
ntaylor: TBN of 1.6 shows plenty of active additive remaining, depending on the oil. Blackstone has a very conservative method of reading TBN, they use the ASTM D-4739 method. OAI/CTC uses the D-2896 method, and Holt-Cat and Butler CAT uses the Dexil methods. Dexil and D-2896 methods will produce higher TBN readings than Blackstone, your TBN would most likely read 3-3.5 on those two scales. I'll make more comments on your UOA in another thread.
Jack_TL: Do the next two oil changes when the MID says 50% remaining to speed the internal cleanup of the engine. Then, follow the MID and use LC at 1 oz/quart at the oil change and 1 oz/1,000 miles.
Michael
Well since we are on the subject, I just received a e.mail reminder from my dealer telling me that I'm due, pretty close they said 3750 miles and I'm at 3800...well here is the letter, but...my question from a guy that has never brought his vehicles for service but done him himself?....are our TL's any different that maybe we should have "them" do the 1st service, I'm toying with the idea since I'm getting a rattle when I play music with "good" bass.....
Letter from dealer....
June 15, 2005
2005 Acura TL 4 Door Sedan
Dear Mr Tirado,
According to our recommendations, it is about time to perform the
service below:
SCHALLER ACURA OIL SERVICE
This visit recommended to take place at 3,750 mi.
* Lube, oil and filter service
Change engine oil and filter, inspect all belts and hoses,
inspect tires for wear, set tire pressure, replace drain
plug washer and perform lubrication service
* Replace drain seal
* Inspect all lights
* Inspect exhaust pipe and muffler
* Inspect suspension and steering systems
* FREE car wash & vacuum
* OTHER SERVICES MAY BE REQUIRED FOR YOUR VEHICLE AT THIS TIME,
Some models vary. Refer to your owner's manual or see your service
advisor for details.
Please come see us, or call or email for a reservation
Letter from dealer....
June 15, 2005
2005 Acura TL 4 Door Sedan
Dear Mr Tirado,
According to our recommendations, it is about time to perform the
service below:
SCHALLER ACURA OIL SERVICE
This visit recommended to take place at 3,750 mi.
* Lube, oil and filter service
Change engine oil and filter, inspect all belts and hoses,
inspect tires for wear, set tire pressure, replace drain
plug washer and perform lubrication service
* Replace drain seal
* Inspect all lights
* Inspect exhaust pipe and muffler
* Inspect suspension and steering systems
* FREE car wash & vacuum
* OTHER SERVICES MAY BE REQUIRED FOR YOUR VEHICLE AT THIS TIME,
Some models vary. Refer to your owner's manual or see your service
advisor for details.
Please come see us, or call or email for a reservation
Originally Posted by CFIMIKE
There have been many, many lengthly treads on this subject. Quite a few people have done the first change at around 2,000 miles and then had an oil analysis done. Results of the analysis indicated the early old change was prudent. That's why I did my first one at 2,400 miles. Even though I didn't have an analysis done it was some pretty nasty looking stuff.
HOWEVER, the experts also point out that the factory break-in oil has a high molybdium (sp?) content which assists the break-in process. Road Rage, who appears quite the expert, recommends after an early oil change to add a bottle of Valvaline Max-life Engine Extender. He says this makes the new, non-factory oil assume an almost identical chemistry to the factory break-in stuff. I also did that.
Yes, Valvaline MLEE is advertised for high-mileage engines but remember you are adding it for the Molybdium content.
Several of the experts also say that the break-in period is essentially complete by about 6,000 miles. So, I'll probably wind up having done the moly thing once, maybe twice.
Some of the treads I mentioned are probably still accessable. Use the search feature to find them.
Hope this helps.
HOWEVER, the experts also point out that the factory break-in oil has a high molybdium (sp?) content which assists the break-in process. Road Rage, who appears quite the expert, recommends after an early oil change to add a bottle of Valvaline Max-life Engine Extender. He says this makes the new, non-factory oil assume an almost identical chemistry to the factory break-in stuff. I also did that.
Yes, Valvaline MLEE is advertised for high-mileage engines but remember you are adding it for the Molybdium content.
Several of the experts also say that the break-in period is essentially complete by about 6,000 miles. So, I'll probably wind up having done the moly thing once, maybe twice.
Some of the treads I mentioned are probably still accessable. Use the search feature to find them.
Hope this helps.
Originally Posted by warrior15r
Oops, 1000 miles. Anyone have a suggestion?
At this point, I'd add 1 bottle Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment to the oil or better yet, just change the oil/filter and refill with Havoline 5w-20. (Probably cheaper)
MLEP, due to the amount of MoDTC present in the add itself, will only add 50-100ppm at 10% concentration of the host oil.
Synpower Oil Treatment, due to its 2000+ppm of MoDTC, should add 200-250ppm at 10% concentration of the host oil.
Mike
What would be the rationale for the manufacturer/dealer to steer you away from getting an oil change when it was prudent? Makes no sense - losing business and possibly damaging engine within the warranty period! That's the whole idea of the MID.
Urgent
Originally Posted by Michael Wan
A few thousand miles is sufficient for the break-in oil.
At this point, I'd add 1 bottle Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment to the oil or better yet, just change the oil/filter and refill with Havoline 5w-20. (Probably cheaper)
MLEP, due to the amount of MoDTC present in the add itself, will only add 50-100ppm at 10% concentration of the host oil.
Synpower Oil Treatment, due to its 2000+ppm of MoDTC, should add 200-250ppm at 10% concentration of the host oil.
Mike
At this point, I'd add 1 bottle Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment to the oil or better yet, just change the oil/filter and refill with Havoline 5w-20. (Probably cheaper)
MLEP, due to the amount of MoDTC present in the add itself, will only add 50-100ppm at 10% concentration of the host oil.
Synpower Oil Treatment, due to its 2000+ppm of MoDTC, should add 200-250ppm at 10% concentration of the host oil.
Mike
oil life
I was down to 10 percent at 4000 miles. I guess the mid, takes into consideration, how many hours the engine is on also, even if your not moving. (stop and go urban traffic) The car burned absolutely no perceptable oil, in the first 4000 miles of this cars life, and I do expect it, to make 200,000 miles without too many hitches.
While I am not sure if I should have done the prudent thing and changed at 2000 miles orwhat, but I have a toyota that I have always taken care of, and it has over 175,000 miles on it,and while it runs slower then it used to, and its fuel consumption is way higher, it still runs without a hitch, and if you werent familiar with the car, you would think the engine only had 50,000 miles or less on it.
I will be staying by the midi. I am a conservative driver. I guess if I drove the car more vigorously , I might consider more frequent oil changes.
I am however a believer in more frequent transmission fluid changes then manufacturors suggest. An old mechanic friend of my dads, who was one of those type of mechanics you dont find anymore these days, who when he did a repair, was what the car needed, and it stayed repaired, always had these ridiculous cars with 300 and 400 and 500 thousand miles on them, and always said the secret, was the transmission fluid. My dad, always did this with his vehicles, (he changes the motor oil at 5000 miles), but changes the transmission fluids at 10,000 intervals, but his cars are getting ridiculous also. He has a dodge van with 250,000 miles (original motor and trannie, and these dodge vans are notorious for having to need trannie swaps every 50,000 miles), He has an old jeep cherokee with close to 300,000 miles. I would get into either of these cars in a moments notice, with no fear of driving cross country and back. He had a buick regal ltd, with close to 300,000 miles on it(which was his favorite car) until it was stolen.
My mom had an 1983 nissan pulsar, with close to 200,000 miles on, and never broke down in its life(until it was stolen also). Also got 27 miles per gallon in the city, and about 40 mpg on the highway.
So, I dont know where I am going here, but the one thing in common with my parents car, and my old toyota, has been frequent transmission fluid and filter changes.
Much regards Flatfoot
While I am not sure if I should have done the prudent thing and changed at 2000 miles orwhat, but I have a toyota that I have always taken care of, and it has over 175,000 miles on it,and while it runs slower then it used to, and its fuel consumption is way higher, it still runs without a hitch, and if you werent familiar with the car, you would think the engine only had 50,000 miles or less on it.
I will be staying by the midi. I am a conservative driver. I guess if I drove the car more vigorously , I might consider more frequent oil changes.
I am however a believer in more frequent transmission fluid changes then manufacturors suggest. An old mechanic friend of my dads, who was one of those type of mechanics you dont find anymore these days, who when he did a repair, was what the car needed, and it stayed repaired, always had these ridiculous cars with 300 and 400 and 500 thousand miles on them, and always said the secret, was the transmission fluid. My dad, always did this with his vehicles, (he changes the motor oil at 5000 miles), but changes the transmission fluids at 10,000 intervals, but his cars are getting ridiculous also. He has a dodge van with 250,000 miles (original motor and trannie, and these dodge vans are notorious for having to need trannie swaps every 50,000 miles), He has an old jeep cherokee with close to 300,000 miles. I would get into either of these cars in a moments notice, with no fear of driving cross country and back. He had a buick regal ltd, with close to 300,000 miles on it(which was his favorite car) until it was stolen.
My mom had an 1983 nissan pulsar, with close to 200,000 miles on, and never broke down in its life(until it was stolen also). Also got 27 miles per gallon in the city, and about 40 mpg on the highway.
So, I dont know where I am going here, but the one thing in common with my parents car, and my old toyota, has been frequent transmission fluid and filter changes.
Much regards Flatfoot
Why would anyone want to follow the manufacturers recommendations? Honda, the worlds largest maker of internal combustion engines i.e. lawnmowers, snowblowers, outboards, motorcycles, four wheelers, generators, automobiles etc and heavily involved in designing and buildling Formula 1 racing engines ought to know what they're talking about. They tell you to follow the MID and back it up with a four year warranty (five year, on the powertrain, I believe) Why we think we know better is beyond me.
Yeah, I'll be curious of any adverse affects. Dealer put a change a 3750 sticker in the window and MID is currently reporting 70% right now with 1653 miles. Most of these miles have been surface, with the most recent 400 done on the highway this past weekend.
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