FINALLY!! Rotora BBK'd Out...front to back!!
#1
FINALLY!! Rotora BBK'd Out...front to back!!
Installed everything all at once, this past Thursday...took about 7 hours (I'm still sore). Looks good, I think. Definetly about that time to upgrade since stock '06 5AT brakes are junk, plus I've thrown in every other performance mod to go faster....so it's best to be able to stop faster, also.
#3
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
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Those're some Bad Ass stoppers.
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#11
Being an Acha Bacha in
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Dam I've always wanted to do this, just no funds. Looks incredible but how does it feel?!! I bet you wanna hit the brakes more than the accelerator.. haha.
I see you did the BBK in the rear, some say that it f's up the braking ratio/distribution. Any truth to this?
I see you did the BBK in the rear, some say that it f's up the braking ratio/distribution. Any truth to this?
#23
Hm... not like it matters THAT much but I thought I'd point it out to you that your slot directions are reversed. But it depends on the actual vents of the rotor. Cuz if the vents are facing the correct way right now, then whoever drilled/slotted these rotors did it backwards.
Or... you may have installed the rotors on the wrong sides.
Or... you may have installed the rotors on the wrong sides.
#24
Race Director
Hm... not like it matters THAT much but I thought I'd point it out to you that your slot directions are reversed. But it depends on the actual vents of the rotor. Cuz if the vents are facing the correct way right now, then whoever drilled/slotted these rotors did it backwards.
Or... you may have installed the rotors on the wrong sides.
Or... you may have installed the rotors on the wrong sides.
If the internal cooling vanes are straight or radial (perpendicular to the hub), then slot direction doesn't make any difference.
For slanted or diagonal internal (directional) cooling veins:
If the slots are the same direction as the internal vanes, then the slot should lean toward the rear of the car.
If the slots are the opposite direction of the internal vanes, then the slots should lean toward the front of the car.
I'm pretty sure that Rotora rotors have radial cooling veins, so it doesn't make any difference what direction the slots are.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 11-09-2008 at 02:20 PM.
#25
Race Director
^^^^The important issue is that directional cooling veins should point toward the rear of the car. That is the deciding factor.
#26
Thank's everyone!!!
Sup Scott..thanks! how those engine mounts holding? Still got your grade 8 hardware whenever you want em...but I found out those bolts we put are grade 5, so they should be ok for a while.
Dam I've always wanted to do this, just no funds. Looks incredible but how does it feel?!! I bet you wanna hit the brakes more than the accelerator.. haha.
I see you did the BBK in the rear, some say that it f's up the braking ratio/distribution. Any truth to this?
I see you did the BBK in the rear, some say that it f's up the braking ratio/distribution. Any truth to this?
Got 'em from here. Josh with Excelerate. Great guy, he'll hook you up!
Last edited by mrlunecy; 11-09-2008 at 03:10 PM.
#28
Team Owner
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That is one murdered out TL.
#37
Do you, (or anyone else), recall if you lost some usable lenght on the wheel studs after the two piece rotors? There's approx 3/16" less stud length (I believe the rotora rotor centers are that much thicker than OEM rotors). Not a whole lot of threads lost, but it still doesn't give me a warm fuzzy. Might look into getting longer studs.
Any input is appreciated!
BTW, Allon, I hate you for creeping up on 300WHP on a N/A TL! great work, man.
Last edited by mrlunecy; 11-09-2008 at 11:53 PM.
#38
tehLEGOman
Join Date: Dec 2004
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Did you have any trouble getting the 2 screws out that hold the rotor onto the hub?! I hate those things.
The rear calipers are a nice touch.
The rear calipers are a nice touch.
#39
1)Used a slightly larger than required philips hex bit (I forget what size).
2)Lightly tap it with a hammer to wedge it in place.
3)Attach a 3/8 ratchet with a 1/4" socket to the philips bit that's still stuck to the rotor.
4)Now pop it! Making sure you keep plenty of pressure on the head of the socket, against the screw, to prevent it from slipping.
5)good luck pulling the screw off the hex bit!
If steps 1 through 5 fail....Plan B; eazy out!
I think it also helped that my car is still under 30k miles.
Replacement screws from the dealer are like 40 cents, so dont feel bad about destroying them.