Are Expensive Spark Plugs Worth It?
#41
From my experience you can stretch them especially if you drive a lot of highway miles but you need to check if they are still tight. When I checked my sparkplugs at 210k miles they looked just fine but 2 out of 6 were pretty loose. So I suggest you at least check it they are tight.
#42
uhhh 'no probs'?
kinda like how the electrode gap is inevitably spreading as it wears down... or, sure let your computer auto adjust for it, and make your alternator and electrical system work harder to make more spark for the bigger gap. Until it cant.
Or, REPLACE THEM and notice the difference immediately after your amount of miles. Its exactly one full tank of gas equivalent up here in Chinada under Justin Turdface now...
SURE you can regap the old plugs you pull to 'check or replace'... mine were a sloppy 0.045-46" compared to the tighter pre-gapped new NGK from rockauto (THEY ONLY SELL FOUR PACK and then charge you some more for the final two individual plugs). I will keep mine for sentimental... or emerg. back up.
But given what I went thru to do it I would say unless you are one of those rich globalist scum who has EVERYONE ELSES MONEY and everyone elses time on your hands, JUST REPLACE THE PLUGS THAT YOU PULL when already elbow deep in gators, and be done with it.
100k of any sort from a stack of plugs is a blessing and a wonder to be revered. Swap with another exact set that will do another 100k AND IGNORE THEM FOREVER MORE (I dont drive as much as everyone else obviously, i dont expect to be alive for the 200k mark)
(Im sure no one else managed to lose their cable clamp down bolt into the framework hole, NOT the trany drip pan... needing more screwing around and magnet stick poking into EVERY HOLE and drain spot until i got it)
DONT BELIEVE ME when I say...
... it started more effortlessly. It idled so smooth hot/cold engine block, that it was incomparable. Highway cruise speed was smooth in a way thats hard to describe. Like an extra layer of sound insulation under the hood was added or something. Engine vibrations thru the steering wheel was not detectable at all. No variations in audible tone during acceleration or decel- for that matter, where before there was a slightly more throaty, ragged rougher sound to it. Pick up was a LOT more noticeable. Jarring, when you are expecting less acceleration actually.
Is it worth the hundred and $17 dollars including GST tax and shipping CAD? Given that you will also get better gas mileage, no questions asked? Of course it is.
#43
harness lock...
yup... and that number six (I COUNT LEFT TO RIGHT facing engine block, (front is 1 -3 for me, back is 4 - 6) got me with awkward harness plug. Cracked off the tab, was using long nose hose pliers to press the tab since my finger wasnt doing the trick, or the clippet was already compromised who knows... that bugger was the worst if you ignore the #3 needing water resevoir moving (bah, nada prob compared to #6)
#44
owners manual and maintenance paperwork
DOES ANYONE HERE remember their carburettor work, distributors, points, copper or (OMG HOW FANCY) platinum plugs when they were THE new tech on the block? You wouldnt get that mileage out of the old tech back then. For not much less per plug currently.
MY maint. paperwork says 'about this mileage' time and I did mine then, especially now we are at $2 a litre (that VOLUME IS 1/4 OF A US GALLON, so multiply by 4) and all the gas mileage advantages are helpful. If you dont think I notice a performance diff or change in sound, fine... you dont have to drive my car, I DO... and its a relief I am not guessing out a part life or maintenance timing, when I am in the middle of a long drive into the wilds to tent this summer. Or its less and less likely availability after all these years...
If you are attuned to your machine, be it an old 300k mile, carbureted 84 Toyota Corroda (no not spelling mistake) like I once had, or an 'old' 04 TL ... maybe you can pull it off... I dont trust major components I deal with them on schedule, or even before if weird things start happening with them.
#45
fail is fail
Hey guys, I'm at 215k on my 08 TL, just bought it off original owner, extremely well maintained. I'm going to change plugs soon, as they are due, is it recommended to replace coil packs as well? Not sure if there is a service life on those, and if I have to smash my knuckles to do the plugs, might make sense to change the packs too...might even check valve lash if I feel ambitious, and do the plugs at that point, with everything out of the way.
Its not going to be like a 'slightly out' plug that wears down so slow you cant tell the performance diff over the years...
My sloppiest old laser Iridium had a wee bit of electrode splatter, melted over time and slewed down the ceramic a bit... SO I GUESS IT MIGHT NOT BE WORKING AS WELL as the rest eh?
But it still worked. The computer probably had to pump more energy into it and adjust for it more is all... IE IT HAD TO WORK HARDER and draw more power from the system making the rest of the system work harder too.
If you have an OBDII that can read single cylinders, just do the plugs and keep an eye on performance that are maybe out of spec. The coil is SO EASY to tinker compared to plug, you can go in and do a single coil later on in maybe a minute tops. No torque factors, one click harness release on wires, slides out. A MINUTE DRUNK even... so dont think its a hassle, even on the back coils (except that frame bracework, unless you dont mind working around it instead of removing it.) Even singling out a suspect coil is so much easier doing the swap with other position routine... just forgeddaboutit.
#46
Head a da Family
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: New Friggin Jerzy
Age: 69
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Has anyone used the new NGK Ruthenium HX plugs? They're touted to be the latest in spark plug technology, advanced iridium, They are right now they're a mere 11¢ cheaper than the 6994's.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...9130&jsn=52173
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https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...9130&jsn=52173
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