Engine Valve Piston noise??
I have only 420 miles on my 05 TL, AT.
Since I am in my early stage I am driving my car very carefully.
I recently noticed very very lite engine piston tapping noise in low PRM stage. From Stop & Go, while slow acceleration, I hear this tapping noise like Valve? Piston? Engine? movement noise. After it picks up speed, the noise goes away.
You have to do this when no other noises are around you.
I’ve never put anything below 91 octane, and I filled it up again today to make sure it was not the gas. 1st tank was 76, and 2nd tank, today it was Shell.
Anyone hear this same noise?
Since I am in my early stage I am driving my car very carefully.
I recently noticed very very lite engine piston tapping noise in low PRM stage. From Stop & Go, while slow acceleration, I hear this tapping noise like Valve? Piston? Engine? movement noise. After it picks up speed, the noise goes away.
You have to do this when no other noises are around you.
I’ve never put anything below 91 octane, and I filled it up again today to make sure it was not the gas. 1st tank was 76, and 2nd tank, today it was Shell.
Anyone hear this same noise?
Originally Posted by Acura_Kid
You may be hearing "chatter" from the VTEC mechanics. What oil is in your motor? Did you check oil level? Can you run anything higher than 91?
Funny thing is that I only have 420 miles on the car, and today the oil life drop'd to 90%. Normal?
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The valvetrain in the TL is hydraulic, and is self-adjusting. There is a normal amount of play or "lash" that is set during assembly. If the clearance is excessive, you may hear a tapping or clattering noise, especially when cold.
I'd suggest leaving the vehicle overnight for the dealer to check it cold. It may very well be normal, BTW.
I'd suggest leaving the vehicle overnight for the dealer to check it cold. It may very well be normal, BTW.
According to my Service Manual, the TL does not have any lifters at all (not surprising with an overhead cam engine) and therefore the valve train is mechanical, not hydraulic. The Service Manual gives good instructions, which are just like any other mechanical valve train in an OHC engine, for checking and making proper adjustments (.008 - .009 inches for intake and .011 - .013 inches for exhaust).
These are VERY close tolerances and if off just a little, you can expect to hear some valve noise.
Tell your service manager at your dealer that you suspect the valves may need to be adjusted, but wait until you have over 1000 miles. That way any more movement of the factory adjustment would have had time to occur.
Oh, one way to help determine the source of the noise is to take a 3 foot (or so) section of garden hose or something similar, and put one end up to an ear while you probe the other end around parts of the engine where you believe the sound to be coming from. This should isolate the location better.
These are VERY close tolerances and if off just a little, you can expect to hear some valve noise.
Tell your service manager at your dealer that you suspect the valves may need to be adjusted, but wait until you have over 1000 miles. That way any more movement of the factory adjustment would have had time to occur.
Oh, one way to help determine the source of the noise is to take a 3 foot (or so) section of garden hose or something similar, and put one end up to an ear while you probe the other end around parts of the engine where you believe the sound to be coming from. This should isolate the location better.
Originally Posted by jhan1102
Do you think this valve noise will go away after fully broken in?
If they require an adjustment now, then no, it will not go away. Most likely just get a little worse as time goes on. It's not completely out of the ordinary for a Honda engine to require a valve adjustment this soon. True, most hydraulic lifter actuated engines require little to no adjustment but the TL manual does state that they should be checked and adjusted if required... Also, hydraulic lifters have moving parts and can go bad/be bad from the factory.
Just have it checked out by your dealer.
Good luck
The TL engine has no lifters and no hydraulic valve lift operation. Hydraulic lifters never need adjusting, though for purposes of performance, I have done this in the past.
If your have a valve or two out of adjustment, then it will not "heal" itself". You will eventually need to get it adjusted (or do it yourself).
If your have a valve or two out of adjustment, then it will not "heal" itself". You will eventually need to get it adjusted (or do it yourself).
Many people confuse injector solenoid noise with valvetrain noise.
Here is what I suggest: Make yourself a cheap auto stethoscope.
1) Get a 1' -2' length of 3/8" "heater" hose - std auto reinforced hose
2) Make sure nothing is hanging off of you - hair, loose shirt, etc.
3) Put your ear to the hose, and put the other end on the area of suspected noise - just like a doctor listening to your heart, lungs, etc.
4) You should be able to locate the noise - then see where you are listening - injectors will be external to the the valve cover - a valvetrain noise will sound louder than piston slap
Just be careful not to get caught up in anything, please.
I have an expensive auto stehtoscope (almost exactly like a Doc's) but this worked for me fine in my poor youth.
Here is what I suggest: Make yourself a cheap auto stethoscope.
1) Get a 1' -2' length of 3/8" "heater" hose - std auto reinforced hose
2) Make sure nothing is hanging off of you - hair, loose shirt, etc.
3) Put your ear to the hose, and put the other end on the area of suspected noise - just like a doctor listening to your heart, lungs, etc.
4) You should be able to locate the noise - then see where you are listening - injectors will be external to the the valve cover - a valvetrain noise will sound louder than piston slap
Just be careful not to get caught up in anything, please.
I have an expensive auto stehtoscope (almost exactly like a Doc's) but this worked for me fine in my poor youth.
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