Drove through puddle, engine is toast, now what?
04-25-2012, 01:55 AM
#45
I do have full coverage from progressive so they should cover it. I also just had a birthday and i think my dad would be willing to cover it as a gift. Anyone have any suggestions about the rebuild idea? The mechanic said he's specifically trained in engine building. And what would have to be done in order to have a type-s engine?
04-25-2012, 02:12 AM
#47
I do have full coverage from progressive so they should cover it. I also just had a birthday and i think my dad would be willing to cover it as a gift. Anyone have any suggestions about the rebuild idea? The mechanic said he's specifically trained in engine building. And what would have to be done in order to have a type-s engine?
As for the rebuild, hell no. Unless you have a trusted mechanic that you have STRONG faith in, don't bother. That mechanic knows that you are in an emotional state right now and the potential costs involved to you if you want to get a new engine. He is going to throw whatever lines he can at you to make you feel comfortable knowing that you are emotionally susceptible.
"Rebuilding J-Series engines is our specialty."
"This is what we do, and we're really good at it. You don't have anything to worry about."
"It will be as good as new when we get finished with it."
04-25-2012, 03:32 AM
#50
oh man.. this is something i never want to happen to my TL-S. Especially when im still making monthly payments..lol. Anyways, I dont have much info to give u. but good luck with everything. I hope ur insurance will cover it.
04-25-2012, 08:02 AM
#52
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Buy a cheap engine and switch it out. Keep yours. Rebuild yours to be a frankenmotor that can handle boost. Rods, pistons, studs, etc. Done.
04-25-2012, 08:18 AM
#54
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Yea I'm not if he can have a big down time or not. If you have other means of transport then yea just rebuild your motor. 
04-25-2012, 08:33 AM
#55
When you hydrolock an engine, isn't it just the bottom end that gets destroyed? Ususally the non-compressable H2O causes the rods to get bent, you blow out gaskets, break ring-lands and you loose compression (I think). The heads should still be fine. You can purchase a brand new fully assembled short block (#1 below 10002-RDA-305) for less than $2000 at OEMAcuraParts with free shipping (code Spyhunter). Then you don't have to worry about questionable rebuild work. Shouldn't cost more than another 1k to have the short block switched out (+ gaskets & fluid). I would definitely go this route over a rebuild.
BTW: Don't bother with the 3.5. It's gonna be a lot of trouble to get it to run right.
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/index.p...305&make=Acura
BTW: Don't bother with the 3.5. It's gonna be a lot of trouble to get it to run right.
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/index.p...305&make=Acura
Last edited by 94eg!; 04-25-2012 at 08:36 AM.
04-25-2012, 08:36 AM
#56
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^^ Good idea. Free shipping on a block! Nice! Lol
04-25-2012, 08:51 AM
#57
i hydro-locked my engine Fall 2011 here in NJ as well. I was dropped on Tein h-techs and had the AEM V2 intake. Bad judgement call on my end but I learned from it.
I got it towed to one of my friends shops. Told me the starter was dead so that needed to be replaced. Then he removed the spark plugs and let them dry for about a day. Did 3 oil changes. He did the thing where you crank the engine and the water all shoots out like a wild jet.
I am just lucky I guess. Good luck OP.
I got it towed to one of my friends shops. Told me the starter was dead so that needed to be replaced. Then he removed the spark plugs and let them dry for about a day. Did 3 oil changes. He did the thing where you crank the engine and the water all shoots out like a wild jet.
I am just lucky I guess. Good luck OP.
04-25-2012, 08:59 AM
#58
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^So you're saying fixing any electrical issues, drying the engine out, and running a ton of oil threw it is all you had to do?
04-25-2012, 09:15 AM
#61
Hell yeah, if you can afford the downtime and $, start yourself a nice racing build! Gerzand(an acurazine member) just finished his full race build and he's putting over 400whp to his type-s! I'm sure he would help you figure out what to order and what not. Good luck OP.
04-25-2012, 09:19 AM
#62
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You can hydro-lock an engine and not do any internal damage. Rare but it does happen. Semantically one may call that flooding the engine but if there is water where there should be air and it can't compress, it's hydro-locked. Bent rods, etc is just collateral damage.
04-25-2012, 09:20 AM
#63
Full of water...
i hyrdro locked a few years ago. the dealership cleaned it up and sent me on my way. drove it for three months before it blew the fk up on my way to work. got it towed to the dealership and insurance replaced it with a used engine. I have since put ~70k miles without a problem. the end. good luck!
04-25-2012, 09:26 AM
#64
We are off to a good start today aren't we justn?
You can hydro-lock an engine and not do any internal damage. Rare but it does happen. Semantically one may call that flooding the engine but if there is water where there should be air and it can't compress, it's hydro-locked. Bent rods, etc is just collateral damage.
You can hydro-lock an engine and not do any internal damage. Rare but it does happen. Semantically one may call that flooding the engine but if there is water where there should be air and it can't compress, it's hydro-locked. Bent rods, etc is just collateral damage.
^So you're saying fixing any electrical issues, drying the engine out, and running a ton of oil threw it is all you had to do?
04-25-2012, 09:33 AM
#65
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djmanu hydro-locked his engine. I asked what he had to do to fix it. Not trying to gain information for me here but for the OP. There is a chance he doesn't have to buy anything he just needs to perform certain tasks.
It seems to me you thought there had to be internal damage for it to be declared "hydro-locked". This is not the case. Now we are just looping around. Lol
It seems to me you thought there had to be internal damage for it to be declared "hydro-locked". This is not the case. Now we are just looping around. Lol
04-25-2012, 09:36 AM
#66
communication is key.
This is why I asked the OP for an exact play by play on whats damaged.
He couldnt tell me, and said "the engine is gone"
from this, I was under the impression that the OP bent a rod somewhere.
in DJMANU's case, no damage was done when he sucked water into his engine.
This is why I asked the OP for an exact play by play on whats damaged.
He couldnt tell me, and said "the engine is gone"
from this, I was under the impression that the OP bent a rod somewhere.
in DJMANU's case, no damage was done when he sucked water into his engine.
djmanu hydro-locked his engine. I asked what he had to do to fix it. Not trying to gain information for me here but for the OP. There is a chance he doesn't have to buy anything he just needs to perform certain tasks.
It seems to me you thought there had to be internal damage for it to be declared "hydro-locked". This is not the case. Now we are just looping around. Lol
It seems to me you thought there had to be internal damage for it to be declared "hydro-locked". This is not the case. Now we are just looping around. Lol
04-25-2012, 09:37 AM
#67
Full of water...
p.s The only "check" i had done was a compression test and that came out normal (within spec). So I would assume you would need to tear down at least part of the engine to check for damages. Or not, drive it, and then maybe replace it down the line.
p.p.s puddles suck!
p.p.p.s puddles that look like small lakes and appear in the dark out of nowhere suck even worse!
p.p.s puddles suck!
p.p.p.s puddles that look like small lakes and appear in the dark out of nowhere suck even worse!
04-25-2012, 09:42 AM
#68
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04-25-2012, 10:02 AM
#69
Safety Car
How deep was that puddle?
04-25-2012, 10:11 AM
#70
Full of water...
my puddle came to the bottom of the side skirts when not it motion....while in motion it made it appear that i was driving through a wall of water (at ~30-45mph), but i wonder how deep the parking lot puddle was too...
04-25-2012, 11:22 AM
#72
For me, those were the only tasks needed to get my car up and running.
Obviously, various factors come into play with this. For me, my car just shut off at once. No clunking, no noises, just died in the middle of the puddle. From my understanding, shorting the electrical components and starter JUST IN TIME actually helped me save my engine because it prevented any more water to be sucked in.
A lot of people try to crank their cars if it stops running. This tries to compress the water and therefore bends the rods.
Obviously, various factors come into play with this. For me, my car just shut off at once. No clunking, no noises, just died in the middle of the puddle. From my understanding, shorting the electrical components and starter JUST IN TIME actually helped me save my engine because it prevented any more water to be sucked in.
A lot of people try to crank their cars if it stops running. This tries to compress the water and therefore bends the rods.
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04-25-2012, 12:43 PM
#73
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so the OP is doing a 3.7 MDX rebuild ? or RL rebuild or just a rebuild ?
04-25-2012, 12:48 PM
#74
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04-25-2012, 12:49 PM
#75
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
04-25-2012, 05:18 PM
#77
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^^^ 
04-26-2012, 05:34 PM
#80
Three Wheelin'
Yes. I hydrolocked my C5 corvette and it was covered under comprehensive. Road Hazard I guess. I had an aftermarket intake as well. No issues with coverage.
Last edited by geekybiker; 04-26-2012 at 05:37 PM.