Can an oil change be done on the TL without raising the car? Looks like the oil filter behind the passenger front tire can be changed without raising the car. What about the oil drain plug? I can't seem to see it without raising the car.

 

All depends on how skinny you are... :-)

Actually, I would recommend a set of the black plastic "ramps" from AutoZone etc. I think I paid less than $20 for mine and they work great/safe with the TL. If you have AutoZone in your area they also take/dispose of your used oil for free.

 

i lifted my car, put it on jack stands and took the passenger tire off.

its not needed to take the tire off but i did to get access to the oil filter. i dont have an oil wrench so i needed to take it off by hand. the only way i could get to use some muscle on it was to get the tire off and have a good angle at it with both hands. the factory really gets it on there tight.

get a jack and some jack stands... or use that ramp that was mentioned. it may take more time then not raising the car, but you'll save yourself a lot of hassle and it'll be easier on you too

 

I have two sets of Rhino ramps, but use neither for my TL (now TLs). About 5 years ago, I built a set of ramps from 2X10's that I use for both TLs and for my Ford Ranger truck.

I found that the TL does not like to climb the Rhino ramps in my driveway.. asphalt is apparently too slick for the ramps to gain purchase. I am planning to built another set of wood ramps, only 6 inches longer to make sure there is no chance of overshooting the ramps when driving the TLs up onto them.

As for doing an oil change without raising the car... I do not recommend doing this. It would be very difficult to get a torque wrench to the drain plug if the front of the car is not raised (I had to buy an "inch/pounds" torque wrench to specifically use for the TLs because my other two torque wrenches would not clear even with the car on ramps).

Also, you'll get a better drain if the car is raised. And one more thing for the oil-change-do-it-yourselfers. I got this from Road Rage.

When you are ready to remove the oil filter, first loosen it enough so that you can take it off the rest of the way by hand. Then take a gallon-size ziplock bag and wrap it completely around the filter and remove the filter slowly, making sure the exiting oil stays in the bag. Once the filter is off, let it stay in the zip-lock bag along with the filter oil, seal it up, and your good to go for the filter. No muss, no fuss, and no gobs of filter oil spilling all over your suspension and other lower parts, the driveway, or you.

 

Guys, I'm no where near actualy doing my first oil change, but I have a question. I remember reading that to have good access to the oil filter you need to turn the wheels either all the way to the right or all the way to the left (don't remember). So my question is isn't this kinda hard if you are using the drive up plastic ramps? How do you turn the wheel without driving the car off the ramp, or having the ramps slide sideways?

 

You can access the oil filter just fine without turning the wheels. It's even easier if you remove the wheel since you can access it from outside the car (instead of underneath it) but it's not necessary.

 

I drove the right front tire on top of a couple of 1' x 1' x 3/4" pieces of wood to raise the car by a few inches, and turned the steering wheel all the way to the right to have an easier access to the oil filter and drain plug.

I found that I cannot tighten the oil filter tight enough with my bare hands, so I use an oil wrench for an extra 1/4 turn.

 

depends where you live. You can drive the front passenger side up a curb; you should have more than enough clearance to reach the filter and drain plug. Plus its pretty safe that the curb won't give. kinda of ghetto, but it works.

 

Yes Hippo, an oil and oil filter change can be done without lifting the vehicle. It depends how big you are. If your a small to medium build person, you can crawl under the front air dam but if your a big build (6 feet and above) you will have a hard time crawling under the vehicle. I have personally changed the oil and oil filter in half an hour. By the way, I use 0w20 or 5w20 Mobil 1 Synthetic oil for my oil changes. Makes the car run extremely smooth and it gets slightly better fuel economy. Turn the steering all the way to your right hand side and you will see the blue oil filter. You can buy a oil change tool shaped like a cap to take off the filter or you can use oil filter pliers to take it off. The cap style oil filter tool can be purchased at the Honda or Acura dealer.

If all else fails, then buy some car ramps at your local auto parts store. Just drive your vehicle over these ramps and you will have adequate clearance to get under the car to access the oil drain bolt. You must also change the 14mm aluminum crush washer every time you do an oil change. Look for an aluminum pan directly under the car after the radiator, you will see the oil drain bolt at the end of the pan towards the firewall. The bolt is a 17mm size bolt.

 

Hey Ayethetiense, get an oil filter cap or oil filter channel lock type pliers to change the oil filter. It will make your life easier. You can order an oil change cap style tool from your local Honda or Acura dealer. Most of the time, you will not need to take off the tire if you crank the wheel all the way to the passenger side and use the oil filter pliers. It will save you time and energy in doing the job. Just a bit of friendly personal advice. Have fun with your next oil change.

 

When I bought a filter from the local Honda dealer, the parts guy gave me a filter cap wrench to fit. Nice touch.

 

Yes, ghetto but it works and it's free. I did this a couple of times. Just watch out for your alloy rims. You don't want to scratch or damage it because it's a dealer item only. I use this method only if it's an emergency.

 

Yes, the cap wrench is the ideal tool. You just use a 3/8 inch rachet to attach to the cap wrench to unscrew the oil filter. It usually never fails. Your lucky to get a cap style wrench for free. They charge like $18 Cdn for it at the dealer. There are alternatives at your local parts store.

 

I like the oil filter pliers better, fits something other than the small honda filter. Also you should put oil filters on hand tight ONLY.

 

Can someone tell me all the items I will need to buy to do this myself. I have started doing everything myself mechanic wise with my cars......A list of items needed to buy for oil changes would be great...thanks

 

Borrowed info from Road Rage (I hope he don't mind!) This is in a thread here that I can't find (in the RR journals for sure), but I had copied this into my notes about my car. I hope this helps:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It is easier than that!

You will need:
a 17mm box end wrench or socket (preferable to be 6-point)
a oil filter wrench (I like the Facom from Griot's Garage)
a new oil filter and crush washer
5 quarts of oil
some rags or paper towels
a medium size Ziploc bag
large drain pan capable of 6 quarts or more
oil rceptacle for re-cycling
brake cleaner spray or similar solvent
Safety glasses - rubber gloves if you are averse to old oil
oil funnel

Car can be warm, but does not need to be hot. Put on the safety glasses and gloves.

1) Remove the oil fill cap and put it somewhere safe
2) Jack the car and put on safety stands - there is an aluminum cross member with an arror pointing to it from plastic shrouding just back of the bumper underneath - that is the jack point - I painted mine bright yellow so any nitwit could see it. The jack stands can be positioned near the front reinforced "lips" (jack points) near the lower sills. Or, on amny re-enforced suspension member. If in doubt, stick with the jack points - they are shown in the manual in the tire change area.
3) Place the pan under the drain plug, which is at the rear of the aluminum oil pan - it has an arrow with the words "Engine Oil" near it. The drain bolt is a zinc dichromate plated 17 MM hex head. Loosen the drain plug (lefty loosey) - carefully remove it and let the oil drain until a few drops fall every 10 secs or so - it is not necessary to be fanatic about the drain. When the dripping slows, put the new crush washer on, with the "rough edge side out, shiny side in towards the oil pan". Wipe the area clean with a paper towel, and tighten until the bolt is snug, then give it a bit more muscle - it does not have to be gorilla tight! Spec is 29 ft-/lbs, or about 360 inch/pounds. Wipe it clean again and spray with some solvent if you have it - away from your eyes.
4) Now move the pan over to the oil filter. It is to the left of the engine when facing towards the rear - passenger side if facing front. It is on its own mounting flange. Loosen it slightly by hand, or carefully with the wrench. Wrap the Ziploc around the entire filter and flange, and loosen/remove the filter. All the oil should go into the Ziploc, and the filter too when you have removed it from the mounting flange. Check to ensure the old filter o-ring is not stuck to the flange.
5) Carefully dispose of the old filter in the trash and the old oil in the receptacle.
6) Wipe the oil filter flange clean.
7) Apply dielectric (silicone grease) to the o-ring on the filter, or engine oil if you do not have anything else.
8) Thread the filter onto the flange bolt - once it makes contact, tighten it snug, but do not use a wrench on it. The o-ring seals without a lot of pressure, and should be tight enough so it will not come off, but not so tight that the o-ring is crushed - that may lead to leaks. There are sometimes dots, triangles, or numbers which Honda uses to guide the tightening. I have found that it takes less than one turn from the time the filter makes contact with the flange.
9) Double-check that you have tightened the oil drain plug. Spray with the brake cleaner if you are anal like me - avoid your eyes! Remove the jack stands and lower the car.
10) Add 4 quarts of the oil using the funnel, then the other 1/2 quart. Do not check for oil level, as it will not be correct, since the filter has not accumulated any oil at this point.
11) Start the engine and let it run for a few minutes; move it to a flat area pof your driveway - then check for leaks at the oil drain plug and filter.
12) Shut it all down, wait a few minutes, and check the level. It should be near the fill mark. Slightly above or below does not make any difference.

Re-set the maintenance info display (MID) to display 100% oil life.

Clean-up.

Enjoy the feel of a freshly lubed engine!

 

Do all the "self-doers" buy the Filter from the Dealer or do you guys have another brand preferences...if so which ones ?

 

Here's a thread with some good info:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ghlight=FILTER

I personally use the Mobil 1 M110 filter which is the same size as the stock filter. Many people here use the Honda filter called for, just be sure to get the "better" one. All the info is in the listed thread. Enjoy.

 

The only other filters I use besides the factory is the NAPA gold (same as Wix), Purolator 1, or a Nippon ( they use to make oem filters, has same part number as old honda filter). All of the above filters are as good as the factory (Filtech) or better. I really personally like the others better.

 

Just a quick note, I have cut all of the filters apart and inspected the materials and designs.

 

What did you find by cutting them open? Who makes the best oil filter? Mobil 1 or K & N, Amsoil??

 

Is this like a soap opera? When do we learn more?

The suspense is killing me.

 

ask and u shall receive...
http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122

 

Thanks for the info, and I have used that line before, but I was hoping the guy who actually did it (Chas22) would tell us his impressions and observations.

 

If you like doing a lot of car work and you have a big garage they have some nice electronic lifts(we have them at school) for about 2 grand. Not bad considering its a professional 4 point lift. Only problem is you need a high cieling and 2k lying around.

 

Thanks for the replies, it's be very helpful.

Went to the local auto shop to look at buying some car ramps. They sell metal ramps which seem to be strong enough but recommended only for tires less than 7.5" wide. The ramp is actually about 9" wide and looks wide enough for the TL. Has anybody used these metal-type ramps with their TL?

 

Can't go wrong with the dealer oil filter but a lot of people go with Mobil 1 oil filters and K & N oil filters. Bosch, Nippon, Denso, Wix, Purolator, Pure One and AC Delco are all acceptable alternatives. Avoid Fram, Pennzoil, and Quaker State because they have poor internal paper filter construction. Look at value. Go with the best quality for the cheapest price. Mobil one and K & N are made in the USA and have very high filtration capacity but they are the most expensive also. $12 USD.

 

Hippo, check out Lordco parts in Vancouver for different oil filter brands. I personally use the Altrom-Nippon brand, they were the OEM supplier for Acura/Honda. They look exactly like the original Honda oil filter but simply do not have the Honda logo. Nippon filters are reasonably price with OEM quality. If you like OEM parts, check out Altrom at www.altrom.com They are are an import parts wholesaler and do not sell to the public but you can get their parts through any auto parts retailer. Eg Lordo, Napa, Magnem, etc.
By the way, Metrix is Altrom's competitor. You might ask your auto parts store about them also.

 

Let me correct myself, what I ment to say was that I had cut open the filters that I have mentioned , the Honda, Napa Gold, Wix, and Nippon as well as some others, sorry but I have not cut open the Mobil 1, K&N, or Amsoil yet, when I get my hands on them I will. The filters that I won't use are Fram, A/C, Penzoil, STP, or Super-Tech (Wal-Mart) The amount of filter materal is about 1/3 or more less, some have cheap looking check valves if any at all, and the bimetal spring used to hold the filter in the can is weak and is some cases I found none.

 

The PureOne is clearly the best value to me.

For something better, I recommend the Amsoil over the Mobil 1 or K&N Filters.

Michael

 

Purolator 1 is an excellent filter.

 

I have a 04 tl, does anyone know the exact size for the drain bolt washer that needs to be replaced and where could i get one.

 

what is the best oil and oil filter for o4 tl?

 

The only other filters I use besides the factory is the NAPA gold (same as Wix), Purolator 1, or a Nippon ( they use to make oem filters, has same part number as old honda filter). All of the above filters are as good as the factory (Filtech) or better. I really personally like the others better.

 

I tried using the ramps I had for years. No good. The car is too low in front of the wheels - actually scratched the paint on the underside of the front bumper thankfully where no one can see.

I have found what works, and is quick and easy, is to put a jack under the lift point behind the right front fender well and to jack it up about 8 inches. Turn the steering wheel as far to the right as you can. Grab your 17mm box end wrench and your oil filter wrench, a drain pan and you are ready to go - almost. Don't forget to put a jackstand under the front suspension as a safety measure. Jacks have been known to fail or slip and it makes no sense to die changing your oil. I can think of many, better ways to risk one's life.

Regards!

 

Does anyone know the exact size for the drain bolt washer, so I can buy one?

 

25 cents @ the dealer would be your best bet for the first time...you can then probably take the old one to home depot and buy a few... so I guess anwser to your question is I dont know