I detailed cars in college for 3 summers so I have lots of experience with it.

Yesterday, I detailed my TL for the first time, and was so surprised with how easy it was to wash and wax. I use a 10" random orbital wax applicator (like a buffer) so one huge issue is that water sits in door handles, window sills, and under headlights and tail lights, and then comes out when you start waxing. That was almost a non-issue w/ exception of Tail lights.

Also, the only parts on the car that can't be waxed are the rubber pieces on the roof and windshield. If you tape those off, you can literally wax the whole car by just opening the doors.The rear glass sits on top of the seal, so there is no rubber to worry about there, and the window jams are polished so waxing them won't cause stains or residue. There are also no rubber trim pieces around the door handles, headlights, etc.

These are all things I never appreciated until I detailed my ride yesterday.

I used MeGwires (sp) wax and was done with the whole wax job in about 30 minutes, which is a record for me.



Yet another reason why I my TL.

 

Tulsa, we need more pics!!! By the way, your thread might get moved to the Wash & Wax section.








2009 Kansas City All Acura Meet-May 17th
https://acurazine.com/forums/midwest-312/kansas-city-2009-spring-all-acura-meet-may-17th-12pm-%40-jay-wolfe-acura-714994/

 

I keep a $20 `harbor freight tools`- 5 gallon air tank- ready in the garage- it adjust tire pressures and when doing a car wash, the compressed air shot in the cracks gets rid of water right now

Caution on the headlight area - car wash type pressure wash or compressed air can weaken the sealant on the housing and allow expensive leak inside lens

Another cheap drying method is the leaf blower, allows you to quickly remove water from the entire car and all the places like moldings and handles it likes to hide

Also dries brakes and rims very well

I take my car for a quick trip around the block after its dry to get the brake pads warm and dry, and knock rust off the rotors

Careful opening the doors with a buffer in action... mine slipped while on and sprayed polish thruout the leather interior dededeeeee

Keep up the good work!!- read wash and wax section in Off Topic area for more great tips from Pro detailers
Claybar- polish-wax--so much to learn

 

Tip: remove the wheels and give them 3 coats of synthetic car wax- 100 degree higher melt temp than carnuba car wax,
It will help those scorching hot bits of stuff coming off the brake pads to slide right off the rim and away
What little does stick is easily wiped off or washed off at next car washing time

 

Yesterday was a fabulous day in Tulsa to wash and wax your car--hope its in the garage today! Good to see another Tulsa member on here. There are a few of us. Your car looks great.

 

Dude, great tip. I've been worried about Brake Pad residue with my new wheels, I'll definitely have to do that. Any suggestions on a brand of synthetic wax?

 

harbor freight tools = THE BEST (not quality, but u know)

 

+1

I wash my wheels really good inside and out and follow it up with wax when I rotate my tires. But I've just used regular wax. Using something that can withstand higher temps would make sense. The little specs of brake pad are tough to get off.

 

BTW the synthetics are good to over 400 F where the carnubas break down around 140F.

Excellent cheap sealant for wheels is NuFinish liquid in the orange bottle. Do 3 layers each 24 hours apart.

 

^ Interesting. I always thought NuFinish was junk (not sure why honestly). I actually think my dad has some in his garage. Why do the coats 24 hours apart though?

 

More old school than junk .. not as easy to work with like the new sealants but for wheels its great ..

Reason for 24 hours is sealants not only dry they cure and bond to the paint. It needs this time to do that and it helps in layering.