ezland00

I know OP said 4-1/2qt, but is that exact amount of motor oil dealer would put in the engine?

Bearcat94

You should put the amount of Oil in that will show the proper amount on the dip stick after you've finished.

For me, using this DIY, it was exactly 4 1/2 quarts to get just below the MAX line. I checked the Oil Level a few days later and it was just below the MAX line.

Also, the Owners Manual says that, including Oil needed for the new filter, that the volume of oil needed for an oil change is 4 1/2 quarts.

ezland00

what would happen is i use 5 quart in there?

Bearcat94

You'lll more than likely be over the MAX line on the dip stick. What that does, I don't know.

The exact amount of fluid needed will also depend on the size/volume of the filter and the amount of filter media, how well drained the oil pan is and whether you've burned any oil between changes.

What I did was buy a 5 Qt container of oil (instead of 5 individual quarts). I used as much as I needed (which was 4 1/2 Quarts).

Then I just dumped the drained oil into the almost empty 5 Quart container for disposal/recycle at AutoZone.

Why are you concerned with the extra 1/2 quart? You could save it. Then, next oil change, just by 4 quarts and have exactly the right amount.

ezland00

i brought the oil in a 5 qt container so i don't really like to have it laying around. is there a easier way to take out 1/2 qt from the engine? i am trying to avoid doing the whole process over again.

thanks

vinnier6

iTrader: (1)

you dont want too much oil in your car...its better to be a half qt low than a half qt over....drain it...

SouthernBoy

I'm at work so I don't have access to my Service Manual, but I would guess there is a windage tray in our oilpan. Overfilling a crankcase without a windage tray can cause "whipping" of the top layer of oil which can lead to foaming. Windage trays vitually eliminate this, but still you do want to avoid overfilling your crankcase.

ezland00

thanks for all the tip, i'll fix it today

Crysophylos

Sobo is dead on Overfilling is a big

BDoggPrelude

I just changed the oil in our newly purchased 07 TL today for the first time. I've been doing the oil changes on our Prelude and Accord for the last 5-6 years myself and had never needed an oil filter wrench until today. Damn thing just wouldn't come off. The drain bolt was super hard to get off to. I'm assuming that the idiots at the dealership probably way overtorqued the bolt the last time the previous owner had the oil changed. Other than that it was a pretty easy job, much easier than it is to change the oil in my Prelude. I used Mobil 1 fully synthetic because that's what I've always used in our other cars and I've never had any issues.

I do have one question though...this write-up mentions something about an o-ring for the oil filter. Neither of our other cars had such a ring, there wasn't one on the old filter when I took it off the TL today and it wasn't stuck on the flange on the car either. Am I missing something?

vinnier6

iTrader: (1)

i assume your talking about the black rubber oring that is attached to the filter??....

SouthernBoy

Yeah, it's the rubber gasket. If you were missing it, there would be oil all over your under carriage and your engine would have most likely seized a while ago.

BDoggPrelude

Okay. I kinda had a feeling that's what it was talking about but I've never had one of those come off the filter before so I was a little confused. Thanks for clearing that up guys.

FiveShifts

Can anyone comment on whether the plastic under carriage shield has to be removed to access the front jack point, drain plug or oil filter on a 3G TL? The original post (from 2006) with pics was a big help. I've been changing oil in every car I've ever owned for - i'm not exaggerating, 35 years. The first time is always full of uncertainty.

As far as the rest-- oil only on the filter gasket, tighten filter ¾-1 turn after gasket contacts base, use a new drain plug washer if you've got one and snug it up, but don't overdo it. 'nuff said.

Bearcat94

No. No. And No.

It is all easy access - nothing extra to remove.

Just look under the side, about a couple feet back from the tire and you'll see the jack/jack stand points - they are obvious with a reinforced "bracket" about 6" long that sticks down off the subframe.

In the center front of the car is a sqaure plate in the subframe - thats the front jack point.

wasupdog

iTrader: (2)

the "plastic under carriage shield" is the air dam to force air into the intake system aka the thing that scrapes when u go down a driveway. it's the fugly plastic gray thing that runs underneath the front bumper all the way left and right. look right behind there in the center of the car and u'll see the square jack point that bearcat is talking about.

u don't need to remove it. however, if your car is lowered and you don't have a low profile jack then it'll get in the way of the jack when u roll the jack under the car.

SouthernBoy

I would add this for your edification. The filter should only be tightened 3/4 of a turn after contact. Use a torque wrench and tighten the drain plug to 29 ft/lbs, or 360 in/lbs. Don't take chances here.

A nice little tidbit for removing the old filter. Loosen it enough with a wrench to where you can continue with your hand. They take a heavy duty 1-gallon ZipLock bag and completely enclose the filter up to and over the pickup arm. Now complete the removal carefully by hand. The residual trapped oil will drain into the ZipLock bad instead of your subframe, your driveway, and perhaps you. Makes the job nice and clean.

Walshstl

So if you need 5 quarts of oil. And its like $7 a quart, thats $35 right there? And then oil filter is another 10 so its around $45 if you diy, dealer does it for $55? Are they not using 5qrts or what? How much are you actually saving if you DIY vs having dealer do it?

Bearcat94

Uhhhm, yeah, dealer = $55. Don't forget, though, they use a $3 Fram filter (yeah, yeah, Honda label; search "PLM-A02") and cheap(er) oil.

*Thats* the difference. If the dealer used the same materials as you'd use, they'd charge you an extra $30 - $50.

BTW, Mobile1, 5 qts, is $25 not $35. $35 is RP and/or Amsoil. IOW- "normal" DIY is only ~$30 - $35.

sol_da_man

in my opinion the TL has one of the WORST oil filter placements that i have EVER seen on any vehicle. i actually used to look forward to changing the oil on previous cars that i have owned, but not the TL.

roc_sky

Dealer = $55
Ebay 12 of PLM-A01 OIL FILTER $47.06 shipped/12=3.93 each.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400012657918&ru=http%3 A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2F__%3F_from%3DR4 0%26_trksid%3Dm39%26_nkw%3D400012657918%26_nd1%3D% 26_fvi%3D1

CASTROL GTS 5W-20 MEETS HONDA REQ AT ADVACE AUTO 1L/4QU FOR 11.99+ TAX0.96=12.95/4quX4.5qu=14.57
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=400012657918&ru=http%3 A%2F%2Fmotors.shop.ebay.com%3A80%2F__%3F_from%3DR4 0%26_trksid%3Dm39%26_nkw%3D400012657918%26_nd1%3D% 26_fvi%3D1

3.93(PLM-A01 OIL FILTER )+14.57(4.5qu of oil)=18.5
$55 - $18.5=EVERY I SAVE $36.5 AND ONLY USE MY 20 MINS.
SO IF I SAY $36.5x3(MEANS 1 HR)=$109.5
I don't think alot of people here can make $109.5 per Hr.

JimiThng

[QUOTE=theone;8617160]Also I am using Havoline oil as because according to www.bobistheoilguy.com, its content is very similar to the original oil the manufacturer usesQUOTE]

how much truth is there to this, anyone?

Sinistr

I just finished changing the oil on my Wife's 08 TL-S, and all I can say is, that was damn easy! The filter location was very accessable. As opposed to her last car, an 07 Civic Si. That car was truly a PITA. Maybe there is some difference in the TL filter location from year to year. Just a thought

SouthernBoy

I have an '04 and an '04 TL and the oil filter is quite easy to reach, remove, and replace. I use homemade wood ramps because the Rhino ramps would tend to slide in my driveway (after resealing) and in my garage. I can reach everything quite nicely and I am not a small man (5'10", 190 lbs).

For those of you who purchase the 5 qt oil "jugs", try what I do. I have a supply of large (20 oz.) plastic drinking cups which I use for what I am about to tell you. Measure 16 ounces into the cup and mark a spot inside of the cup with a Magic Marker where the 16 ounce line is. To do this, pour two cups of water from a measuring cup into your plastic cup. Dry the inside of the cup then pour oil from your 5 qt container into the plastic cup up to the line you have marked. Now just pour the rest of the oil in the 5 qt container into your engine and you're good to go.

You can either discard the 16 ounces of poured off oil or save it.

DUHockey9

So I have a big time novice question (as I am a novice). Is it 100% necessary to have ramps or jack stands? You can't just squeeze under the car?

Also, is the M1-110 filter the appropriate Mobil filter for an 06 TL?

LaCostaRacer

Great work on this! The one tip I have is that I use a Sharpie to write the date and mileage on the filter (works great on the white Purolators I usually use). This way it's pretty obvious that the filter has been changed in case you have other mechanics work on your car. My Honda Pilot doesn't have a MID so the mileage/date helps in case there's a question of when the oil was changed.

It's admittedly pretty anal, but doesn't take any time to do.

vinceeyy

how bad really is doing 5 quarts?
i've done 5 quarts ever since i had my car lol.
about to be 2 years now.

pkarandi

You're kidding right? No way you can fit under the car without jacking it up, unless you weigh like 60 lbs!

Use jack stands or ramps! Even if you could fit under your car, you won't have enough room to correctly torque the drain plug bolt.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

I disagree with this 100%. It is the best location I've ever had to deal with. We had a 2000 nissan altima and that was the worst location ever. Straight off the back of the engine. Oil would get all over the back of the engine and all over the axle. Many times I considered a filter relocation on that car.

I have a question for everyone. Why does the filter get tighter over time?

Last time I did it I put it on handtight, but this weekend I had the most difficult time getting it off. It was stuck. I finally got it off with a pipe wrench and that thing was really dented and mangled after I was done with it. I was one step away from stabbing it with a screwdriver and twisting it off.

cellerity

Thanks for the write up and pictures! They will be a great help for me in the future. I just bought an 05 TL and I was wondering what brand of oil they have found that has worked well and they liked, as well as the oil filter.

BTW: I just bought the car and the dealer didn't reset the MID, should I reset it now about 300 miles after it was changed or just leave it until the next oil change.

NCTL05

iTrader: (9)

Go ahead and reset it. 300 miles will make no difference at all in the oil life % in the MID. Plus once it gets down to 5% oil life it will constantly remind you to replace your oil and that would start to annoy.

FiveShifts

great pics of the underside of the TL chassis by theone (baby Huey)
As for the oil on the gasket; remember, the purpose of using oil is to seal the gasket ring, not lubricate it. Grease will swell the rubber.
Also, if you want to make it far easier to access the filter, SAFELY jack the front end up as prescribed by others in this post then simply turn the front wheels to one side stop or the other . Then reach through the opening behind the fender splash guard. Otherwise, join the circus and become a contortionist.

winkyyy

I just used my old washer. It was still in good condition, looked just like new. The thing that really got me was the oil filter. I thought the oil filter was stuck since the general rule is righty tighty lefty loosey, but in this case it wasn't. I ended up twisting it the wrong way for like an hour and hammering a screw driver through it and making a big mess. Then later I realized I need to twist the filter to the right to loosen it. What a fail on the oil filter and myself.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

You usually do not need to change washers. The reason why most people change it is because they tighten the bolt way to much along with the filter. Tighten it enough with a socket (enough that you can't tighten it anymore with your fingers) then to tighten it once more through than that is enough.

grooverider_420

Just noticed my "service engine soon light" on. I'm at 15% on the oil change due, great info. Keep it up, I love gettin dirty with my TL!

I hate cars

Agreed. My old Celica had the filter upside down and on the back of the engine. There was honestly no choice whatsoever but to make a huge mess that would continue to drip for a day or two even after extensive towels and brakleen.

I hate cars

Same here. It's better to be a little too high than too low. It would take a few quarts too many to come into contact with the crank and cause aeration. I've checked on other cars like my GN with the engine apart and with a 5 quart capacity, it took 9 quarts to touch the crank counterweights.

I've done 5 quarts since the Tl was new and it has nearly 100,000 miles now. I figure with the sticky tires and track days I don't want any air getting sucked in.

The extra half quart can help lower overall oil temps very slightly.

cellerity

thanks for the advice, i went ahead and reset it.....and yeah I could definitely see how that would get annoying haha

dj_vesper

Picked up those Gorilla ramps. (Those things are sweet!) Went to the Honda dealer in town and bought a 6 pack of oil filters and crush washers. Costco had a sale on Mobil 1 synthetic oil so I picked up 6 cases. Did oil changes on both of my TL's in about an hour and a half. Thanks for the walkthrough!

DUHockey9

Just did this for the first time today (not just on my TL, but ever). Very simple, and it felt good to do my own work. The drain plug was a bitch to get off though!

As for the post about cost savings above...I paid $25 for a 5 quarts of Mobil One at Walmart. $12 for a Mobil One filter on Amazon. So I'm at $37 for an oil change using a pretty good quality oil and filter.