Oh so its the outboard joint not an outboard boot.

I just checked the link and it shows the symptoms of clicking is the joint.

Yikes! re-checked the vendors site and the joint set is $208. ill give them a call and see how much. I'll do some searches too to see what any recent 3G owners paid for theirs.

 

I got 2 axles off ebay for like $140 over 20k miles ago with no issues. They may not last as long as the oem, but mine didn't even make 100k miles. So, oem isn't necessarily substantially better.

 

Better hit up google for a picture of the cv joint so you can become familar with the part.
May be a little late, but the boot certainly isn't going to make the noise, it's lack of lube within the joint when cold, but it the noise is audible at all times, the cv joint is kaput.

 

When you say damper, are you referring to the weight? My CV axle snapped today and I need it fixed asap. Im seeing a wild variance in price for the part and have no clue if it should be weighted or not. Autozone carries the part for $70-95, any idea what I should expect to pay in labor?

 

I am about to take on this project. I have never done this before so wish me luck!

Is it a big PITA? I have done many brake jobs, etc.. but never anything with the axles etc. Mine are popping like crazy when I turn, especially if cold.

This my be a dumb question, if I replace the CV asle shaft on each side, is that everything or is there an additional CV joint?

 

The CV joint is traditionally the joint/boot connecting to the hub.

My only tip for you is to make sure you have the nut on the end of the ball joint threads if you're using a method involving pressing that out.

 

I'd recommend new castle nuts/pins, and axle nuts. I used ericthecarguy's DIY video when I did my axles, helped a lot so maybe check that out.

 

Eric's vids are very helpful.

I highly recommend picking up a pitman arm puller.
http://m.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-1752.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20provided

I had to file the opening slightly wider, but once done it made pushing out the lower ball joint a breeze.

 

There is no need for a new castle nut for the lower ball joint. New cotter pin and axle nut yes.

 

Does a 2004 Acura TL with Automatic transmission on the passenger side have a axle that pulls from the transmission case or does it disconnect from an intermediate shaft. I've puled the wheel assembly, but can't get the cv axel to pop out with a little prying. Also, do I need to pull the exhaust manifold or heat shield or is something else keeping this shaft in. This job has been tougher than I thought and all I lack is getting the cv axle out, but can't get good instructions online. Can anyone help me on this issue?

 

It's attached to intermediate shaft near the passengers side wheel well. The intermediate shaft support bearing is surrounded by a heat shield. I'm not sure if this must come out to get the axle out or not. But I can say getting the axle out may take these two tools rented (for free) tools from Autozone. When I replaced my wife's pilot's passenger side driveshaft, this was the only way to get the old one out. And even that took a while of pounding away at different angles.

Slide Hammer:


CV Joint puller:


The two separate parts assembled:

 

Try to replace the passenger side axle today and could not figure it out how to pop the inner join out. I might need to rent above tools and try again tomorrow. Anyone replaced them before, please give me some advises.

 

Mine was a pain in the ass, it was rusted in there. I believe there's a small heat shield right next to there that you can take off to get a better angle pounding it out horizontally with either a flat head or a pry bar

 

I am looking at potentially replacing mine and what I saw in EricTheCarGuy's video was that you may need to try and spin the axle a bit and try again. There is a metal, circular pin that locks the shaft in and moving that around a bit may allow it to free-up and be pried out. I would link the video for ya, but I can't at work.

Search for "Eric the Car Guy Honda Axle Replacement" or something similar on YouTube, you should find it. Car he's working on is a white Honda Accord, but as far as I understand it's the exact same process for the TL.

 

This is a useful thread...thanks for people updated this with useful tips /info etc over the years...

I have a 98 Acura 3.5 RL with 200K miles with separated axle joint on passenger side. I will get more info on specifics once I look under car. Is the oem axle set $305 ea side...? Man...I don't mind paying about 400 for both sides...have to check raxles that people seem to like. Any other options?

 

You may get better advice over in the RL section, but I know the passenger side caused me some pains in my car. The real key was just to get a prybar on the back side of it and then tapping/hitting on it with a hammer. I think it took one mild hit to pop it out of the half-shaft. Trying to pull on it was not the answer and I ended up separating the inner joint on the old axle.

Not sure what the axles cost on your 98 RL, but if the Raxles are cheaper than OEM, I would go with them, as long as you think you can get your money back for the cores. If you live anywhere in the rust belt, you will probably not get that money back, just a heads up.

 

This is exactly what I did.. just had to jack up the steering knuckle right under the lower control arm's ball joint to get it back in place..

 

this is an easy job, provide you have nice jack stands and a the necessary tools...
go to pep boys and get the axle nut set, you can rent it for free...

Then jack the car safely and put it on jack stands, remove the axle nut using a socket wrench, folks who don't have an air wrench then let the car be on the floor pop the center cap and loosen the axle nut and then the lugs.....raise the car and pop the rims off..... now loosen the ball joint nut, DO NOT TAKE IT OFF ALL THE WAY JUST LOOSEN IT LIKE 2/3 THREADS, THEN TAKE A SLEDGE HAMMER AND SLAP THE SIDE OF THE LCA RIGHT WHERE THE BALL JOINT IS CONNECTING TO THE LCA, LIKE ON THE SIDE OF THE BALL JOINT BUT THE SLAP WILL BE ON THE LCA....COUPLE OF NICE SOLID PROPERLY AIMED SLAPS WILL POP THE BALL JOINT OUT....LEAVE THE BALL JOINT NUT SO IF YOU MISS THE SLEDGE HAMMER WILL HIT THE NUT AND NOT THE BALL JOINT THREADS.....

now move the wheel/knuckle away and slide the wheel side of the shaft out, now slide under the car and using a crow bar pry off the shaft from the tranny..... make sure you don't touch the seal on the tranny end...you can also use gently hit with a hammer using the pry bar on the shaft, it has these notch on it to do that....
Now use the white lithium grease on the ends of the new shaft and snake the shaft into position ....this is the difficult part,.... you will have to use all your force and show that shaft into the tranny gears till it sits flush with the seal, you can use gentle taps on the wheel end of the shaft to get the gears to engage, but lithium gease on the tip is a must....

on the passenger side you will need more stronger force to free the shaft from the intermediate bearing as the shaft is longer that the driver side...

Trust me folks it is easy.....nothing that you can break of loose....juts be careful the gear if engunaged properly will slide it effortlessly , if not then you will have to find the gear teethe to match up...

hope this helps, PM me if you have nay more questions.

My trusted brand is A1-Cardone......they are the best in axle business and have perfect part match......tried a lot of axles but only the A1-cardone ones fit perfectly the first time....so save yourselves some trouble find the correct part number from their site and then find the cheapest deal on the web and buy em....

Sandan

 

Lot of typos above as I was typing fast and now I cant even edit it....bear with me folks...but i guess the explanation is there ask me for clarification...

Sandan

 

 

If you are talking about the intermediate shaft between the transmission and the outboard driveshaft then you need to remove the 3 bolts holding the bearing support flange. Once that is loose then the shaft just simply slides out of the transmission with the flange attached.

 

So I am having serious issues trying to remove the right side axel from the intermediate shaft. I have pounded, I have pulled,i have cursed and nothing seems to work. I cannot see how to easily remove the shields. Is there any separators out I can use or any tricks?

 

You need to use a slide hammer with that fork around the inner joint then start hammering/pulling it out, a picture is shown of this above.

 

After a day of trying to yank and pound at it my last option is the slide hammer option. I am just waiting on the wife to come back with her car to go rent it. Thanks for the reply back. I will let you know the outcome of this

 

I was able to simply use a flathead screwdriver to wedge between the case and the axle, it popped it out a mm or two, but that was enough to get it started and I just yanked it out....deformed the boots, but since I was replacing it I didn't care.

Your inboard joint looks rusty as hell though, so I'm guessing that's contributing to it being stubborn.

 

That only works for the driver side.
You can't wedge anything between the passenger side driveshaft and the half shaft.

FWIW xiteg, the passenger side is usually the most stubborn to remove.
I recently replaced the driveshafts on my X after tearing the outward boots.

Smacked the passenger shaft case with a crowbar and a 4lb hammer 400x + pried on it for a day.
I cut the inward boot, removed the shaft, and used a sliding hammer with vice grips.
I had 22 lbs on the sliding hammer and knocked it almost 200 times.



After 2.5 days.. finally gave up
Slid the shaft back on, buttoned her up and took it to a good shop I know.
Well they got it done.. by snapping the fucking carrier.

If the sliding hammer doesn't work.
Buy a new half shaft (it's ~4x the price of the passenger drive shaft)
Check delray (acuraoemparts)

Unbolt that bitch and replace the whole assembly.
Half shaft should come out easy on the the inboard side.
I'm pretty sure on newer Jseries Acuras, that's how they do it.
It's one assembly now (half shaft + driveshaft) for different platforms.



That being said, don't know anyone that had this much of an issue removing a driveshaft.
Even J called his connect and was like hell nah.
Thinking I got bitch arms.. ninja please

 

btw I made that sliding hammer myself.. shit is cheap
Got the idea from this guy

 

Weights are adjustable weights I had laying around from a dumbell set.
By the time I was done the teeth on the grips were completely flat.
The washers were completely deformed as well.

Guy suggests using a hollowed out hammer.
You could also use old warped ass rotors..
Pretty much anything that'll slide down that big shaft (@rockstar143)

 

I tried sliding up and down the shaft but it left my knees needing medical attention.
I recall this trouble! I can't believe the trouble it gave you!

 

So update, I used the slide hammer and fork and after about 5 minutes of pounding with the hammer the passenger side axel came right out. Thanks t-rd!!.

And for some reason getting the lower ball joint back in was a huge pain in the arse. But finally got it.

 

I needed to replace my passenger side axle not that long ago. I tried doing it myself but no amount of tugging or prying I did would loosen it. In my frustration, I decided to tie a rope between it and my father's Land Cruiser to yank it loose.

The rope snapped on the first attempt.
On the second attempt, it dragged the car off its jackstand.

I gave up after that and had it towed to a local shop. They got it off, somehow.

 

christ

 

 

 

probably used a car with more torque to do exactly what you did

 

When it's time to give up, you should, and take it to a shop to get it done with an hour of labor. It's totally not worth it yanking the whole car off jack stands OMG, how did you come up with that idea?! And you spent money on tow fee also.

 

Maybe in his case
But I would have jacked that shit up
Put everything back as best I could
And driven that bitch with the hazards on to the shop
Hell nah am I going to pay for a tow on top of that