Get a GSP axle if you want to aftermarket for cheap. I just got one put in yesterday on the passenger side, zero problems (no vibration despite lack of dynamic dampener, no clicking noise) plus lifetime warranty and no core return.

 

New ones are only $169 from Acura online...

http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/P...gPicture=False

 

That's what I want to get but no advance auto in my area. Probably just order online.

I would go OEM but there's no warrantee. Looks like everyone's replacing theirs around 75-100k.

Damn just tried to order at advance auto parts and it's out of stock.

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20% off with promo code M20

 

Do it. i live in socal with no Advance Autos close to me.

I emailed them about warranty replacements and they said just send them the invoice of the replacement axle and they'll refund you the money for theirs.

Cant go wrong. You could order 2 GSP axles for cheaper than 1 oem and if one goes bad, swap the working one in and get another replacement.

Got my axle for $76 shipped. Good luck.

 

I have read alot of vibration issues with GSP axles...and many people have said they last only a few years and then go bad....you get what you pay for....if you don't mind having to change your axle every few years than GSPs should be fine....but if it were me I would go OEM....

 

If you were really on top of it, you would wash & 303 your CV boots every once in a while.

BTW: For you cheapo DIY'ers, you can always buy the boot kit as soon as you get a tear. It's a very messy job, but worth it to maintain a known good OEM axle. Boot kits are like $22 each from Honda, but you need to buy both ends separate (or all four if both your axles are torn).

#3 & #2 in this pic (includes bands grease and cir-clips):

 

Anyone have a complete DIY for this yet? I either have to do my mounts or axels on my 5AT I'm thinking..

 

- lift car & remove wheel
- remove center cap from wheel
- re-install wheel and lower car
- break hub nut loose w/ breaker bar.
- lift car onto jack-stands (set stands slightly higher on the side your working on)
- remove wheel
- remove damper fork
- separate lower ball joint (don't eff up the sleeve in the LCA)
- swing the knuckle outward and push axle in through the wheel bearing
- pop the axle out of the transmission
- Install is the reverse of removal

BTW: You set the car on jack-stands at a slight tilt to keep the trans fluid (MTF) from spilling out when you pop the axle out of the trans.

As an owner of 4 Hondas, I can now swap axles in my sleep.

 

For those of you who have done this axle swap, did the replacement axles you purchased come with the dynamic damper or did you have to reuse the existing damper. I just purchased a set of Cardone axles and they do not have the damper installed.

 

That dynamic damper is the sole reason I went with oem axle for my replacement.

Looking at the axle it doesn't look like you can simply remove it and install it on another one. I could be wrong

Aftermarket doesn't have the damper

 

The service manual has a procedure for replacing the damper, but I'd like to know whether those who installed aftermarket axles installed the damper, or left it off and were satisfied with how it performed sans the damper.

 

Quick question, i could get both axles from Raxles for $185 with core returns. The question before i order them is, both sides click when turning left & right. Its getting worse as i let it go on, so would that be the axles or the cv joints? Thanks guys.

 

I believe the CV joint is what causes most of the clicking however I would go ahead and just replace both CV axles. It's easier for you because it's a simple remove and replace.

Both axle for $185 is a deal because I paid $145 just for a OEM acura one for my passenger side.

 

Curious, where did you get axle from? I checked the Acura part catalog and the left(driverside) one is $550 though oemacuraparts.

I noticed that when I make right turns sharply on a cold start the clicking begins. My right side has no clicks at all. I was thinking to just replace the outboard boot set but if I can score a similar pricing deal for the driverside axle I'll go that route. 700-500 is pretty steep to replace the whole assembly when I am showing signs of clicking only.

Greatly appreciate the help. I've search and read many threads but nothing regarding the CV boot kits, everyones recommendation is just buy a new axle.

 

Unfortunately for you I believe the year model TL you have is the one that costs the most for a cv axle.

I purchased mine from http://www.dchautomotiveparts.com

I remember reading a thread back when I was researching on replacing mine and if I recall correctly the 05 or 06 auto TL is the ones that cost a fortune. No idea why.

 

Years ago they were the same price as the '07-'08 axles, but the supply ran out and the need to manufacture more was necessary, therefore the new price.
With the AT/Base, actually the O/S joint and boots I/S & O/S are all the same throughout the years, but the inner joint is different.

The 6 M/T is the same '04-'08 and still @ $150 each side, discount.

 

So is it safe to just buy the outboard kit for $25 bucks since my boot is slightly cracked, and its only clicking on sharp right turns?

 

I usually just replace the boots once I notice them broken but not making noise. Fairly easy, but time consuming as the axle needs to be disassembled, but most say that once the CV joint starts making noise, a replacement is needed. Some make a noise when cold, but stop after driving so a new boot and grease will help, but once the CV joint is compromised replacement is the only option.

 

I've pulled out the axles before WITHOUT removing the lower ball joint.


Remove the upperball joint, and endlinks and you can flex the control arm out and pull the axle out.

 

Thats the only time mine clicks very loud when cold. but once it warms up you can't hear it. What part actually fails? I've always been curious but many posters just state that if CV boots are ripped the debris and grease gets in/out causing the CV axle to lose lubrication, but does anything actually break on the outboard side.

I'm going to get it checked out at my local mechanic to get a proper quote or idea what is really bad. He always tells me what is absolutely necessary for replacement and what has to be fixed. But I do my research and check here for parts so I can order them through our vendor to keep costs low.

I'll leave to my mechanic since I have no tools to remove or take apart the CV boot.

 

at least you wont get your hands dirty

 

Just go ahead and have the joint removed, cleaned, greased and new boot, but check his cost as more labor is involved than just doing an axle replacement, as the half shafts can be had for as little as $45 a side.

 

Lucky for my year it costs like $210+ off vendor website. Wait so there really isn't a difference between this generations in axle. If an 07 axle can work with an 05 then I'll get a whole new CV axle/driveshaft

 

No, although some parts are the same, the complete '07-'08 A/T half shaft is different .

 

Got it, I'll just change both inner and outboard boot sets for the left/driverside axle since I'll be paying the labor to get underneath it. about $60 bucks is not bad for the kit.

Wait do you think these kits come pre-greased inside? I dont see the grease listed under the driveshaft section.

 

Don't know what comes with the Acura/Honda boots.

Take a look at RockAuto as they have the "kits" for as low as $8.00 inner, $9.00 outer with all components, boots, grease, clamps, ring.

 

There's universal joints inside of both the inner and outer boots.

 

The OEM Boot kits come with everything you need to replace the boot (including bands, grease & all one-time-use cir-clips). The kits are good and guaranteed to fit perfectly. No universal/questionable rockauto parts. Just keep in mind this is a VERY messy job. I personally prefer this method whenever I have OEM axles because they they are truly the best quality. I always monitor my CV boots when doing oil changes, cause I try to replace them before they completely let go.

#2 (outside) & #3 (inside) are the boot kits and they cost $24 each from OEMAcuraParts.com (coupon code swoosh for half off shipping over $100 order). 2005 6MT shown:


If these are the double loop style bands, you need a banding tool. Otherwise they simply crimp down with pliers once installed. From the picture above they appear to be the crimp style.

Boot banding tool with built in cutter double loop style boot (mandatory tool for this style band):



Boot crimp tool (store vs homemade):

 

Not to be argumentative, but at RockAuto there is a choice of Raybestos, Beck/Arnley, Moog & Dorman, all at substantially lower prices than OEM.

 

I don't think he was referring to the price but rather the fitment and quality issues with using after market parts.

That's the sole reason why I bought a oem cv axle for $145 (includes dynamic damper) whereas Rockauto had aftermarket ones for $80-$90 (no dynamic damper on those listed aftermarket).

I could have saved a lot of money but went with oem instead.

 

Yes, I understand it wasn't only the price, but have spent thousands at Rock auto and no issues, and actually not many aftermarket fitment problems from whomever. Yes, most aftermarket assemblies won't have the damper and one wouldn't notice a problem, but most are able to be removed and used on a new unit if one wanted to go through the time to do the job. Acura has them listed separately for $15.05/$11.29, 44351-S0K-A01 Damper, Dynamic, so they can be reused on the new unit, but as most wouldn't want to pull the new axle apart to do the exchange, I can see the reason behind your choice.

 

You mentioned rebooting an axle when it's not making noise. Rebooting an axle that IS making noise is like repacking a noisy wheel bearing. The bearing will make noise immediately, the axle will usually make noise within a month. I've had almost no success with this, and won't even try it anymore.

 

My reasoning is that I've never had ANY CV boot last as long as an OEM one. My 05 TL and 04 Pilot still have all 12 CV boots in tact from the day they rolled off the assembly line. My 97 Integra boots lasted up until 2010 & 2012. Yet I've replaced the Axles on my CRX at least 4 times (I can remember) due to Autozone re-builds since buying it somewhere around 2003. And twice I had to immediately take them back & exchange them because the units they gave me caused nasty vibration once on the road.

For me it's worth the trouble to save a known quality axle by using known quality parts.

 

^There have been many on here that have needed the OEM boot/axle replacement in what I consider a very short period of time, so OEM is no guarantee. Just remember, replacements wouldn't be needed if the OEM didn't deteriorate, some quicker than others.

 

So is it a waste to just change the CV boots rather than just bit the bullet and order a brand new full axle for the left side? I dont want the clicking seeing that photo of a poster's wheel breaking off.

 

If yours only clicks when cold, I say a repack will do the job, but as I stated before, the labor to remove, split the axle, repack, put everything back together may cost more than a replacement axle, depending on supplier.

A CV joint that actually separates, indicates many miles of clicking and the neglect wears the assembly to the point that it breaks.

 

What do you mean, "A CV joint that actually separates..."?

 

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7247/7...4dfb7269_b.jpg

 

Well I know that it is not a cheap part to install so I can live with paying $150-200 in labor for the time being rather than close to $700 in parts plus another $200 in labor cost.

Thanks I'll order both CV boots in and outboard for the left side since it will be disassembled.

 

Raxles, America's premier supplier of OE quality CV Axles and CV joints - Raxles Inc.
1-800-257-8192 Give them a call to see price on axle assembly.