TheNip73

Alright... has anybody got the MID to display a 5 yet - Coolant change? I'm at about 28,000 miles and I need to head to the dealer tonight because a rubber seal on my sunroof has come undone and I would like it fixed under warranty. I am only asking because in general I've always tried to stick to a 30-40 thousand mile coolant change interval. I figured since I was at the dealer I should consider saving myself a trip later. But if the coolant can go until 60,000 I don't want to be wasting my money. Anyone have any insights on this? I'm really curious what the TL thinks the coolant can go... I'm sure there is some calculations with RPM, idle time, and all that other jazz but just a rough idea of when the MID triggers would be great!

Comments on when to change the coolant in general in Hondas/Acuras are also welcome. From what I've been able to gather Honda coolant is supposed to be pretty good so maybe 30,000 is jumping the gun. This is my first Honda/Acura so I need some advice from the seasoned owners.

Thanks!

Repecat

I believe that coolant changes are more time-dependant than mileage-related. On my last car, a Saab, the manufacturer recommended coolant changes every 3 years regardless of the mileage. The rust and corrosion inhibitors will deteriorate with time even though the freezing protection may still be adequate.
Just my

SodaLuvr

I recommend 3 years, regardless of mileage, just like the last person said.

Yours does not require a replacement at this point.

When replacing the coolant, use a low or no silicate formula such as Zerex Z-05 or Honda OE coolant.

DO NOT USE DEX-COOL!!!(aka DEX-DEATH)

Michael

TheNip73

Alright. I'll do the 3 years thing then. Obviously monitoring the coolant until then or doing it when the MID says to do so.

SodaLuvr

3 years, but don't exceed 60K. I'm sure the MID will signal for a coolant replacement around 60K anyway, so you might as well follow that.

Michael

TheNip73

I'm putting on about 25,000 a year so it looks like MID for me.

Thanks.

crazymjb

There is some new coolent which claims to last 5 times longer,its red, not green. If you dont have the right mixture it will also mess up your heating, just thought I would add that.

Repecat

That red, new coolant is probably Dex-cool, which should be avoided as Michael has previously stated.

RacialSlurs

"closed" systems that have fill caps will indeed collect dirt over time.

the MID is retarded at minimum. you best bet is to follow the advice of the coolant manufacturer, they know how their coolant works and breaks down over time. the 35k mile marker is a typical swap-out time.

maybe BlackStone will start to lab coolant fluids too, this way everyone can debate what % of silicon is leeched into the fluid, etc.

just swap it out, be done with it, too much thinking going on over some silly fluid.

SouthernBoy

Funny to see this question. Just last night, I was looking in my Service Manual and read the section on doing a coolant drain and fill. I kinda scanned over it quickly, but it looks like it may be the easiest coolant change I've ever seen in a car. Just two drainplugs to remove plus the overflow tank, then refill, heat up with loose cap, check levels, top off, and you're good to go (more detail lives in the manual, but it's still pretty simple).

In the past, 2 years/24,000 miles was the milestone. But that's changed quite a bit... as in a lot. Better coolant products, better temperature controlling of the engine, but mostly the fact that the block and heads are all aluminum.. no steel water jackets in the water passages.. just all aluminum. This significantly reduces corrosion and coolant breakdown. I've seen old coolant removed from a 1991 Honda Accord LX and both it and the pasages in the head were clean.. the passages looked new!

KJSmitty

Hey Mike Wan/Repecat,

I must have missed something... Whats the rumors on Dex Cool? My Suburban obviously has it - thats why I ask ...

Thanks - cheers

Repecat

Well, all I have is some anecdotal stuff from being on a Saab forum for 7 years. Seems when GM took 100% control of Saab a couple of years ago, they started to put Dex-Cool as factory fill in the Saabs, and shortly brownish scum started to be seen in the cooling systems which eventually clogged passages. Speculation was that there was a reaction between one of the coolant ingrediants and engine metals, perhaps aluminum. I do not have any personal experience with the stuff, however.

KJSmitty

Interesting.. Thanks.

Mine was flushed at ~36K miles and didn't appear to have any issues.. Maybe they "changed the formula" :-) Like others have stated here, my manual calls for 100K interval on the "Dex-Death" I'll probably stick to my "personal" 3 year schedule for all my vehicles..


Thanks again...

Repecat

You're welcome. I've been using the 3 year schedule for lots of years. Works for me.

Road Rage

I too recommend 3-4 years - gelling in the inaccessible regions of the radiator represents the greatest threat to aluminum radiators. Mixing even "compatible" fluids can result in gelling, and as it is a major hassle to completely "neuter" your car's coolant, I highly recommend sticking with Honda's excellent Type 2 coolant.

Even though Honda says the fluid can seemingly last "forever", remember that any mfg build residue or by products of combustion would be better off removed - in the same sense that doing an oil change before the MiD says so can remove garbage like sand from the castings from grinding through the heads.

I cannot stress how important using a non-silicate formulation is: either Honda's, or something like the G-5 formulations used in Europe - developed by BASF. I have studies from Honda Engineering that show severe erosion of water pump impellers, cylinder heads, and water jackets from the "sand" in silicates. The silicates are effective at plugging "pin-hole" gasket leaks, which they do by "melting" when they hit the high temperature combustion gases trying to blow by the head gaskets. But with advances in metallurgy, the combo of aluminum blocks AND heads, and silicone reinforced gaskets, there is really no benefit to the heavy silicates, except in older vehicles. Example: the 2.5L engine in Subarus are notorious for head gasket leaks - my wife's '97 Outback was overheating, and I "saved" it by going to a high silicate coolant - prolonging its life a year or two.

But for the TL's, do not gamble with "universals" or "low silicates". I just do not see the benefit, but I do see risks.

SouthernBoy

To Road Rage;

Thanks for you input in this area.. a subject about which I know I have some weakness.

Question. In the past, I have made a habit of keeping a 50-50 "pre-mix" in my garage for those times when I might need to add some coolant to the engine. How long would you say you can safely keep such a pre-mix of Honda's Type 2 coolant before it starts to break down? And is this the specified coolant for the TL (I have not looked this up yet).

SodaLuvr

RR, I don't disagree that there are risks. But its your choice. If you think about it, we're taking a similar risk by filling our transmissions with Amsoil Universal ATF when Honda Z-1 is called for. But yes, Amsoil will warranty the transmission if it goes bust because of the fluid, but its still a risk.

Perhaps we should have OAI/CTC analyze a virgin sample of the Zerex G-05.

Remember, the usage of Zerex Z-05 is purely my recommendation, and its up to you whether you decide to follow it. If you don't want to take a risk, go ahead and use Honda OE coolant.

Michael

SodaLuvr

This thread explains it..a lot:
Link

Michael

Road Rage

In a sealed container? Practically indefintely. Think about it - if Honda says it can go 10 years in a rad and engine, sitting in your garage is a cake walk. Point is, there will likely be new advances in coolant technology in 10 years, and Honda will change its recommendation, as it has over the years for many of its fluids. For example, my 1995 NSX-T called for engine oil in the tranny with a max service life of 30k miles - the next year Honda went to MTF, and said it was a 100k fluid. I used MTL and forgot about it.

Vanos

when you heat up with a loose cap, how do you know when to tighten the cap?