Clutch

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Old 02-05-2005 | 10:23 PM
  #1  
Pearl04TL's Avatar
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10th Gear
 
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From: Queens, NY
Arrow Clutch

Hello, how are you all? I have a question. Does anyone know of a aftermarket clutch for the 04 TL M/T? Performance cluch or even o.e.m. Other than the dealer where can i find a clutch and pressure plate, i hate the weak stock version, it gets hott and slips like crazy, thank you.
Old 02-06-2005 | 09:06 AM
  #2  
SouthernBoy's Avatar
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From: Suburb of Manassas, VA
To Pearl04TL;

"gets hott and slips like crazy". Why?? Want are you doing.. racing? If you're racing the car, then I can understand why you might want to get a stronger clutch, but for normal driving and the occasional hard pushes, this clutch is fine.

If it's already slipping, something is terribly wrong. You shouldn't begin experiencing any clutch slip until well into the first 100,000 miles.. perhaps even over 200,000. Either one of three things are at fault. 1) Your clutch is defective. 2) The installation at build time was done improperly (not a likely scenario). 3) You are doing some VERY serious things to your car (racing, very heavy towing, improper operation, etc.).
Old 02-06-2005 | 09:51 AM
  #3  
Hawhyen51's Avatar
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From: NorCal
Southernboy's assessment is absolutely correct. I don't know how many miles you have or how long you have had your TL, but your clutch should not be slipping or getting hot. The stock clutch works as advertised in normal day to day driving.
Old 02-06-2005 | 11:34 AM
  #4  
GoBig's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Hawhyen51
Southernboy's assessment is absolutely correct. I don't know how many miles you have or how long you have had your TL, but your clutch should not be slipping or getting hot. The stock clutch works as advertised in normal day to day driving.
Agreed...
Old 02-06-2005 | 12:41 PM
  #5  
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While it's true that historically, foreign clutches have not been up to the strenght and durability of American clutches, this is no longer the case. For some time now, clutches in foreign cars have performed just fine in their service and operation.

So there is no reason at all that if your clutch as delivered operates as designed and if you're not doing something out of the ordinary (such as racing or towing), then you should expect to see at the very minimum 100,000 miles. And I would say closer to 200,000 is more realistic. Of course, it you live and commute in cities like San Francisco where there are some serious hills, then that would constitute a different set of variables. But I venture to say most of us don't live or drive in places like that, so the 200,000 mile figure is not out of reach.
Old 02-06-2005 | 12:51 PM
  #6  
PoochaKannInc's Avatar
Shift_faster
 
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From: Queens, NY
I agree. But if you really want to change it out...Team Honda Research raced a 3G TL with a Comptech clutch & flywheel for the CL six speed.
Old 02-06-2005 | 01:12 PM
  #7  
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I have a similar problem that I brought the car to the dealer for. They could not reproduce it, and asked me to get more info and the circumstances when it happens so they can try to reproduce it again. I guess they don't want to drop of the tranny to check themselves.

Anyway, I've noticed that it only happens when I'm in stop and go for a while, or if I push the car a little, and then drive normal, I'll notice it. So I guess it's getting hot and then I'm feeling it slip. I'm not feeling it in the actual drivetrain yet, really only in the pedal as a slight vibration or shudder.
Old 02-06-2005 | 06:03 PM
  #8  
Pearl04TL's Avatar
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10th Gear
 
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From: Queens, NY
Arrow Clutch

The car has 11k on it. Yea, i race it time to time. I was racing a s2k and a 03 gt mustang. I shifted 2nd and the clutch didn't grab as it suppose to. Then on 3rd it was worse, the rpms dropped gradually, it didn't grab. Then i got that stink as ever clutch smell. Someone said something about the cl-s clutch and flywheel would work, how true is that? i want something similar to a stage 1 or even stage 2 if possible. Thanks for your help...by the way, i have a injen cold air and today my check engine light came up, tell me how the thing says i am running lean on bank 1 and bank 2...i don't know why the ecu isn't compensating for the extra air, its not like i have a supercharger, this car is getting me pissed. I jus had a new catalytic converter installed also... Thanks again
Old 02-06-2005 | 06:35 PM
  #9  
Repecat's Avatar
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From: Olympia, WA
Wow! ECU, clutch, and who knows what other problems that car has. Maybe its time to trade in on a new one.
Old 06-17-2008 | 09:48 PM
  #10  
eduble2's Avatar
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Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
While it's true that historically, foreign clutches have not been up to the strenght and durability of American clutches, this is no longer the case. For some time now, clutches in foreign cars have performed just fine in their service and operation.

So there is no reason at all that if your clutch as delivered operates as designed and if you're not doing something out of the ordinary (such as racing or towing), then you should expect to see at the very minimum 100,000 miles. And I would say closer to 200,000 is more realistic. Of course, it you live and commute in cities like San Francisco where there are some serious hills, then that would constitute a different set of variables. But I venture to say most of us don't live or drive in places like that, so the 200,000 mile figure is not out of reach.
I was just at the dealership and I was complaining about how my clutch was making a clicking noise and how I was still having issues with my 4th gear (it's been an I going issue - they replaced my 3rd gear synco and now my 4th gear is the same way )
I have some miles on my car about 85,000 but there all highway miles and the dealership now told me that my clutch is about to go and that might be the problems to my trans issues. Do you think that the trans issues can me messing up my clutch?

Basic info... 2005 6MT TL, bought certified. Had for about 1 1/2 years and put about 40,000 miles (highway)

Any advice would be helpful! I feel like I'm getting scammed! They can NEVER replicate any of the issues that I deal with on a daily basis.
Old 06-18-2008 | 01:48 AM
  #11  
triggle's Avatar
'04 6mt Pearl
 
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From: Vancouver
Originally Posted by eduble2
I was just at the dealership and I was complaining about how my clutch was making a clicking noise and how I was still having issues with my 4th gear (it's been an I going issue - they replaced my 3rd gear synco and now my 4th gear is the same way )
I have some miles on my car about 85,000 but there all highway miles and the dealership now told me that my clutch is about to go and that might be the problems to my trans issues. Do you think that the trans issues can me messing up my clutch?

Basic info... 2005 6MT TL, bought certified. Had for about 1 1/2 years and put about 40,000 miles (highway)

Any advice would be helpful! I feel like I'm getting scammed! They can NEVER replicate any of the issues that I deal with on a daily basis.
Does your clicking sound come from the pedal or under the car ? The clutch master cylinder has had a known clicking problem on 04 TLs. I thought it had been fixed for 05s but maybe not. The problem shows up as a clicking from the clutch pedal area (not the clutch switch noise) and a distinct notch when depressing the pedal instead of a smooth linear stroke. I noticed my problem mostly on hot days after a long drive. Mine and others were replaced under warranty but they are not major components just a bit of work to get old one out and new one in. Don't let the word "master cylinder" scare you, the part is less than 150$.

The problems I've had with high mileage (>150000KM) Honda clutches are: slipping, noise from the throw out bearing, or if you are stopped at a light on a level surface with clutch fully depressed foot off the brake you creep forward. If you are slipping you will likely know it, and it won't be long before you will get stuck. My experience is that they fail gradually enough that you'd get a chance to limp home or to a garage. The temp gauge is also an indicator of a slipping clutch. A throw-out bearing can be heard when idling as a growling that gets quieter when the pedal is depressed but is not serious. A warped plate or partial dis-engagement causes the creeping problem and can be caused by bad driving habits like holding your foot on the clutch at red lights instead of using neutral with foot off the clutch.

Check your fluid for level color and viscosity. If the fluid is dark and viscous it should be replaced and then bled to flush out the old crap. Brake/clutch fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and will rust the components from the inside out. Flush once a year.

Hope that helps
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