Buying a 2005 Acura TL Anthracite with 172K for $4,500 a good idea?
02-10-2015, 05:04 PM
#81
OP- I think you may have been better off not posting at all. I can't believe how this thread has gone all over the place. Yeah maybe some of your questions came across a bit 'scattered' or whatever but in the end it looks like you got a decent car. Only you know how it drives as we can't. Tire pressure...a little odd but so what. Maybe one has a leak. Keep an eye on them all. My TL has a few tires that leak air around the bead. Tried to have Goodyear reseat them and clean the rim surface but they still leak. Sometimes depends how the car is parked.
Hopefully your check engine light is minor. Seems a bit too coincidental that you just left the inspection and the light came on. I would go back to that mechanic and ask if maybe they had something to do with it. Start there.
Hopefully your check engine light is minor. Seems a bit too coincidental that you just left the inspection and the light came on. I would go back to that mechanic and ask if maybe they had something to do with it. Start there.
02-10-2015, 06:16 PM
#82
Racer
Thread Starter
If you're going to do it, do it right.. you just got the car and you're starting off on the wrong foot by bandaging a problem
If you don't care, then do it. if you do care, then try and fix it yourself. First step I would do is go and reset the code and see if it comes back. Sometimes it's a fluke why some of these things happen.
.. That's not a good sign at all.. WTF?! You said you took the car to get inspected. How in the hell were all the tires at 14-15 PSI (LESS THAN HALF?) the recommended pressure and the mechanic didn't notice?
Good luck with your car OP, one of the best parts of buying a used car (for me anyway) is that you'll run into issues and you learn LOADS from fixing those issues.
I use premium air in my tires..
(half joking, but Costco here pumps our tires with Nitrogen!!)
I am learning about cleaning the CAT but some say it works some say it's a waste of time.
Oh forgot to mention that I left the light on because I think I am going to return the plates to her brother so I am going to try to explain the situation and maybe he'd be willing to partially refund ($300-$500) but I am highly doubtful.
Last edited by YungMoola15; 02-10-2015 at 06:22 PM.
02-10-2015, 06:21 PM
#83
Racer
Thread Starter
OP- I think you may have been better off not posting at all. I can't believe how this thread has gone all over the place. Yeah maybe some of your questions came across a bit 'scattered' or whatever but in the end it looks like you got a decent car. Only you know how it drives as we can't. Tire pressure...a little odd but so what. Maybe one has a leak. Keep an eye on them all. My TL has a few tires that leak air around the bead. Tried to have Goodyear reseat them and clean the rim surface but they still leak. Sometimes depends how the car is parked.
Hopefully your check engine light is minor. Seems a bit too coincidental that you just left the inspection and the light came on. I would go back to that mechanic and ask if maybe they had something to do with it. Start there.
Hopefully your check engine light is minor. Seems a bit too coincidental that you just left the inspection and the light came on. I would go back to that mechanic and ask if maybe they had something to do with it. Start there.
02-10-2015, 07:20 PM
#84
Drifting
I helped my son replace his O sensor and I think it kicked the same code...that sensor wasn't that expensive I don't think. His car only has 80K on it, 2004. So if replacing at 80K I would change the O sensor.
02-10-2015, 07:43 PM
#85
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
Take it in to get properly diagnosed. If the sensors aren't at fault, it would be a catalytic converter failure. Scan tool will show live data as the car runs and they can see what the 02 sensors are doing.
02-10-2015, 08:45 PM
#86
Race Director
..So I go home and take everything to go to DMV and BAM half way there the check engine light came on and I turned around went home.
Came home checked the code and it's P0420 (Catalyst System Below Threshold Bank 1).
At this point I don't know what to do because how the heck did the emission pass if the Catalytic converter is bad? I just don't understand.
So my question and maybe someone can help me is could it be an O2 sensor or is the computer just glitching?...
Came home checked the code and it's P0420 (Catalyst System Below Threshold Bank 1).
At this point I don't know what to do because how the heck did the emission pass if the Catalytic converter is bad? I just don't understand.
So my question and maybe someone can help me is could it be an O2 sensor or is the computer just glitching?...
Again, I suspect you are hearing injector noise rather than valve noise.
Agreed.
02-10-2015, 09:23 PM
#87
Racer
Thread Starter
I wouldn't get too wound up just yet. In fact, I wouldn't even bother with further inspection unless/until the MIL comes back on. Save your $$ for now and just drive it for a while and see what happens. You may never see the MIL again.
Cold start rough idle is normal for our cars. Some claim it's the ECU running a rich fuel mixture to heat up the cats and get them to operating temperature faster, but I've never seen any documentation to support that.
Again, I suspect you are hearing injector noise rather than valve noise.
Agreed.
Cold start rough idle is normal for our cars. Some claim it's the ECU running a rich fuel mixture to heat up the cats and get them to operating temperature faster, but I've never seen any documentation to support that.
Again, I suspect you are hearing injector noise rather than valve noise.
Agreed.
02-10-2015, 09:24 PM
#88
Racer
Thread Starter
I'll definitely take it in and make sure. With Actron scanner you can see if it's sensor or actual converter so I'll have it looked at by my mechanic.
02-10-2015, 09:33 PM
#89
Racer
Thread Starter
Quick question for you experts... Would you recommend I add a quart of additive at my next oil change? I am looking at either Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil.
What do you guys think?
Btw I really appreciate o4w and everyone's who's replying. You guys really helped me calm down and given a little peace and ease of mind.
What do you guys think?
Btw I really appreciate o4w and everyone's who's replying. You guys really helped me calm down and given a little peace and ease of mind.
02-10-2015, 09:37 PM
#90
Race Director
02-10-2015, 09:43 PM
#91
Quick question for you experts... Would you recommend I add a quart of additive at my next oil change? I am looking at either Rislone or Marvel Mystery Oil.
What do you guys think?
Btw I really appreciate o4w and everyone's who's replying. You guys really helped me calm down and given a little peace and ease of mind.
What do you guys think?
Btw I really appreciate o4w and everyone's who's replying. You guys really helped me calm down and given a little peace and ease of mind.
02-10-2015, 10:03 PM
#92
Racer
Thread Starter
02-10-2015, 10:04 PM
#93
Racer
Thread Starter
02-10-2015, 10:09 PM
#94
Yeah no need for any oil additives. Some run Seafoam in the oil for a few miles prior to changing it. For the fuel I would say Seafoan or Chevron Techron
02-10-2015, 10:15 PM
#95
Race Director
02-11-2015, 10:36 AM
#96
Racer
Thread Starter
02-11-2015, 10:36 AM
#97
Racer
Thread Starter
02-11-2015, 10:49 AM
#98
Team Owner
Don't use an additive. 91 is totally fine for your TL. Don't go lower.
02-11-2015, 11:15 AM
#99
Racer
Thread Starter
One more Q, if I drove the car with a bad CAT would I i hurt anything like the engine or something? My mechanic said only negative effect is loss in MPG and since it passed emission he said not to worry
02-11-2015, 11:18 AM
#100
Senior Moderator
I only wanted to use the additive because of the noise but if you guys don't recommend then I wont.
One more Q, if I drove the car with a bad CAT would I i hurt anything like the engine or something? My mechanic said only negative effect is loss in MPG and since it passed emission he said not to worry
One more Q, if I drove the car with a bad CAT would I i hurt anything like the engine or something? My mechanic said only negative effect is loss in MPG and since it passed emission he said not to worry
Also bad cat just means a potential drop in fuel economy due to it potentially being 'clogged'. OH and I guess you're not doing the environment any good but who cares about that right?
Have you tried my first recommendation of just clearing the code and seeing if it comes back? I drove around with a P0420 on my old accord for a few years and only fixed it because I needed to pass CA emissions. It's the ONLY reason I fixed it at all.
02-11-2015, 11:26 AM
#101
Advanced
Surprised nobody has said anything to this man. Yungmoola15, use the multi-quote tool if you could. It'll help reduce the number of posts you have to make and it'll all be combined into one simpler post instead of you having to reply to each post individually. Just a tip.
02-11-2015, 11:59 AM
#102
Team Owner
A lot of manufacturers actually advise against using additives. Not sure what the TL manual says, but I could see it being the same. Will it hurt? Likely not. But as mentioned, it really isn't necessary.
As for the sounds your engine is making, the additives won't help in that regard. It really sounds like you just need a valve adjustment to take care of it. The engine does naturally make a bit of a ticking sound. I'd have that take care of first, to be honest.
As for the cat, I'm not sure, is it possible to buy a used one from an auto wrecker? I've never had to replace one before. You have a few options with this, all are generally pricey though. Disconnecting the battery might temporarily clear the code, but it'll likely come back. I remember my old man had a 2003 Toyota matrix and he would do that every couple days because he was too cheap to replace the cat, lol. To be fair, the car was completely miled out and only worth like $2000, lol.
As for the sounds your engine is making, the additives won't help in that regard. It really sounds like you just need a valve adjustment to take care of it. The engine does naturally make a bit of a ticking sound. I'd have that take care of first, to be honest.
As for the cat, I'm not sure, is it possible to buy a used one from an auto wrecker? I've never had to replace one before. You have a few options with this, all are generally pricey though. Disconnecting the battery might temporarily clear the code, but it'll likely come back. I remember my old man had a 2003 Toyota matrix and he would do that every couple days because he was too cheap to replace the cat, lol. To be fair, the car was completely miled out and only worth like $2000, lol.
02-11-2015, 01:23 PM
#104
Team Owner
I think he was referring to fuel system additives. I hope he's not putting oil additives in there!
02-11-2015, 06:59 PM
#106
Race Director
Top Tier Gasoline
You know Top Tier gas has a good amount of detergent additives and has met stringent testing.
02-11-2015, 08:47 PM
#107
Racer
Thread Starter
Additives are unnecessary and that's why we don't recommend it. You don't NEED them and they won't hurt but it's your money. Don't think that it's going to be a magic silver bullet to fix your problems is all.
Also bad cat just means a potential drop in fuel economy due to it potentially being 'clogged'. OH and I guess you're not doing the environment any good but who cares about that right?
Have you tried my first recommendation of just clearing the code and seeing if it comes back? I drove around with a P0420 on my old accord for a few years and only fixed it because I needed to pass CA emissions. It's the ONLY reason I fixed it at all.
Also bad cat just means a potential drop in fuel economy due to it potentially being 'clogged'. OH and I guess you're not doing the environment any good but who cares about that right?
Have you tried my first recommendation of just clearing the code and seeing if it comes back? I drove around with a P0420 on my old accord for a few years and only fixed it because I needed to pass CA emissions. It's the ONLY reason I fixed it at all.
02-11-2015, 08:50 PM
#108
Racer
Thread Starter
You think the Castrol would be good? People were saying to use high mileage oil but if Castrol is good then that's $25 savings in my pocket.
02-11-2015, 08:51 PM
#109
Senior Moderator
It's not much. maybe 1 or 2?? Not sure to be honest, it was a while ago.
The cat is mainly for converting all those noxious gasses that your engine emits and making them a little less noxious. Hence the word "catalyst".
Okay, Maybe you can get a few hundred bucks back. Good luck!
Also, oil is oil, as long as you follow the MID replace religiously you'll be good. Don't overthink these little things bud
The cat is mainly for converting all those noxious gasses that your engine emits and making them a little less noxious. Hence the word "catalyst".
Okay, Maybe you can get a few hundred bucks back. Good luck!
Also, oil is oil, as long as you follow the MID replace religiously you'll be good. Don't overthink these little things bud
02-11-2015, 08:52 PM
#110
Racer
Thread Starter
A lot of manufacturers actually advise against using additives. Not sure what the TL manual says, but I could see it being the same. Will it hurt? Likely not. But as mentioned, it really isn't necessary.
As for the sounds your engine is making, the additives won't help in that regard. It really sounds like you just need a valve adjustment to take care of it. The engine does naturally make a bit of a ticking sound. I'd have that take care of first, to be honest.
As for the cat, I'm not sure, is it possible to buy a used one from an auto wrecker? I've never had to replace one before. You have a few options with this, all are generally pricey though. Disconnecting the battery might temporarily clear the code, but it'll likely come back. I remember my old man had a 2003 Toyota matrix and he would do that every couple days because he was too cheap to replace the cat, lol. To be fair, the car was completely miled out and only worth like $2000, lol.
As for the sounds your engine is making, the additives won't help in that regard. It really sounds like you just need a valve adjustment to take care of it. The engine does naturally make a bit of a ticking sound. I'd have that take care of first, to be honest.
As for the cat, I'm not sure, is it possible to buy a used one from an auto wrecker? I've never had to replace one before. You have a few options with this, all are generally pricey though. Disconnecting the battery might temporarily clear the code, but it'll likely come back. I remember my old man had a 2003 Toyota matrix and he would do that every couple days because he was too cheap to replace the cat, lol. To be fair, the car was completely miled out and only worth like $2000, lol.
02-11-2015, 08:56 PM
#111
Senior Moderator
Imma play devils advocate and advise against the junkyard idea. For something like a cat, you're replacing it because over time it gets clogged, loses efficiency, and dies. In my mind, getting one from a junk yard was going to just last a few months to years if that.. Hell it could be just as bad as the one you have! Most people go aftermarket too but I just opted from an OEM cat and that set me back $600 
On the bright side, that 99 accord still passes CA smog with 0s! I guess you can call me a tree-hugger
On the bright side, that 99 accord still passes CA smog with 0s! I guess you can call me a tree-hugger
02-11-2015, 09:12 PM
#112
Racer
Thread Starter
Imma play devils advocate and advise against the junkyard idea. For something like a cat, you're replacing it because over time it gets clogged, loses efficiency, and dies. In my mind, getting one from a junk yard was going to just last a few months to years if that.. Hell it could be just as bad as the one you have! Most people go aftermarket too but I just opted from an OEM cat and that set me back $600
On the bright side, that 99 accord still passes CA smog with 0s! I guess you can call me a tree-hugger
On the bright side, that 99 accord still passes CA smog with 0s! I guess you can call me a tree-hugger
Btw would it matter if the castrol is 5w30?
02-11-2015, 09:22 PM
#113
Senior Moderator
Official answer is to follow the manual. I don't think it will KILL your car to use 5w30 instead of the 5w20 that's recommended it though. When in doubt, follow the manual I'll leave the rest up to you.
I'll leave the rest up to you.
02-12-2015, 11:21 AM
#114
Racer
Thread Starter
Hey guys, I posted this same question on the fluid thread but got no response and since this thread is helping me a ton I thought I was ask here:
was wondering what kind of fluid I should use in the car. I believe dw1 was used in the car prior and I'm not sure if the switches were replaced but most likely not.
I am very weary of using dw1 because it didn't help my CL.
I was looking at Redline D4,D6, F type and amsoil super shift also Mobil 1 AtF.
What would you guys recommend I do with such high mileage?
was wondering what kind of fluid I should use in the car. I believe dw1 was used in the car prior and I'm not sure if the switches were replaced but most likely not.
I am very weary of using dw1 because it didn't help my CL.
I was looking at Redline D4,D6, F type and amsoil super shift also Mobil 1 AtF.
What would you guys recommend I do with such high mileage?
02-12-2015, 02:45 PM
#115
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Regardless of the fluid used, the transmission in the CL was doomed. The transmission in my 2001 CL-S was replaced under warranty.
I stick with the OEM fluid but many people here swap over to Redline D4.
I stick with the OEM fluid but many people here swap over to Redline D4.
The following users liked this post:
04WDPSeDaN (02-12-2015)
02-13-2015, 12:33 AM
#116
Cruisin'
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought mines 2004 with 140xxx miles for $3000 an love it mileage I not really afraid of but mm Ines is 6spd so I not to worried about the teams that would be the only thing I would be worried about
02-13-2015, 12:33 PM
#117
Racer
Thread Starter
Guys sorry to keep asking for help but can someone please give me a link to the 3rd and 4th pressure switches? The ones on with the PN from the DIY thread says its compatible with older gen Acura like the CL.
02-13-2015, 07:55 PM
#118
Racer
Thread Starter
02-13-2015, 08:22 PM
#119
I have not cleared the code yet because I'm meeting with the lady tomorrow and wanted to show her the light but I'll definitely clear after the meet and report back to you. It's very assuring now that you say you only replaced your for the emission so I'm gonna do the same lol. How bad was your MPG shot btw? Oh and I do care about the environment
Why are you going back to them? I have to say WTF in this instance. Person to person auto sales are not Wal-Mart, there's no return policy.
No offense, but the mentality that someone would call me AFTER they drove off in the car is why I use a PO Box on the title, and use a throw away google voice number for selling, and also meet in a parking lot. I would probably laugh at someone that tried to call me after a car transaction is done. Geez.
Anywho, you'll probably be fine for a while to clear the code, but it's probably the cat, and not the o2 sensor. Since it is just for catalyst efficiency, it should not affect mileage at all. It might affect emissions testing, and using defoulers won't change that.
02-14-2015, 02:08 AM
#120
Team Owner
