Buying a 2005 Acura TL Anthracite with 172K for $4,500 a good idea?
02-09-2015, 09:14 PM
#41
Racer
Thread Starter
Ok guys I am keeping the TL but just two things concerns me.
So after having the car started for more than 5 minutes and idling I could hear like a slight very low engine rocking noise. I had it looked at and the person said it's just my valves tapping and I should just add some additive next oil change. He said it's normal for a Honda at this mileage but it's nothing bad.
The noise is very faint...
Second concern (or stupidness)
Ok so the steering on this car is kind of stiff not sure if it's supposed to be like that I mean I can definitely steer with 1 hand but it's stiffer than the CL. I searched and people say it's normal. I checked the reservoir to make sure fluid is good, and it was just dirty so I took it out with baster and replaced with new fluid.
Not sure if I should be concerned about that?
So after having the car started for more than 5 minutes and idling I could hear like a slight very low engine rocking noise. I had it looked at and the person said it's just my valves tapping and I should just add some additive next oil change. He said it's normal for a Honda at this mileage but it's nothing bad.
The noise is very faint...
Second concern (or stupidness)
Ok so the steering on this car is kind of stiff not sure if it's supposed to be like that I mean I can definitely steer with 1 hand but it's stiffer than the CL. I searched and people say it's normal. I checked the reservoir to make sure fluid is good, and it was just dirty so I took it out with baster and replaced with new fluid.
Not sure if I should be concerned about that?
02-10-2015, 06:49 AM
#42
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
Ok guys I am keeping the TL but just two things concerns me.
So after having the car started for more than 5 minutes and idling I could hear like a slight very low engine rocking noise. I had it looked at and the person said it's just my valves tapping and I should just add some additive next oil change. He said it's normal for a Honda at this mileage but it's nothing bad.
The noise is very faint...
Second concern (or stupidness)
Ok so the steering on this car is kind of stiff not sure if it's supposed to be like that I mean I can definitely steer with 1 hand but it's stiffer than the CL. I searched and people say it's normal. I checked the reservoir to make sure fluid is good, and it was just dirty so I took it out with baster and replaced with new fluid.
Not sure if I should be concerned about that?
So after having the car started for more than 5 minutes and idling I could hear like a slight very low engine rocking noise. I had it looked at and the person said it's just my valves tapping and I should just add some additive next oil change. He said it's normal for a Honda at this mileage but it's nothing bad.
The noise is very faint...
Second concern (or stupidness)
Ok so the steering on this car is kind of stiff not sure if it's supposed to be like that I mean I can definitely steer with 1 hand but it's stiffer than the CL. I searched and people say it's normal. I checked the reservoir to make sure fluid is good, and it was just dirty so I took it out with baster and replaced with new fluid.
Not sure if I should be concerned about that?
What you really need to do is have the vehicle inspected by a Mechanic.
1. At the mileage your TL has, a valve adjustment is needed IF it hasn't gotten done yet, this also includes spark plugs and as well as the most important the timing belt. Valve adjustment is only maintenance, this may not be your noise you could have something else going on, its been known for the belt tensioner to make noise and or knock a bit.
2. Regarding p/s, it's totally not uncommon for these vehicles to go through power steering racks and or power steering pumps. Stiff steering that gets better with higher rpms usually mean the p/s pump is on its way out. The 2nd gen MDX is very notorious for this as well.
3. I'm sure if you did some research you will see the TL typically suffers from a couple of things. 1. Dashboard cracks, 2. Leather seats ripping, 3. Bluetooth unit failures, 4. Engine mount failures, 5. Lower control arm bushings/ball joints and Misc items I will tell you next.
It's very important to get the suspension checked out, most important is the lower control arm bushings and upper/lower ball joints. CV-shafts have been known to cause noise when super cold and go away as you drive a bit, or the boots tear. Engine mounts usually the front and passenger side go together and more or less now the transmission mount is starting to become a "new" issue. Interior illumination lights are known to go out over time and you will need to replace the bulbs. Everything with a button or switch will light up at night except the Mirrior L/R doesn't light up. Other not as common but still fails are the LED boards in the tail lights and or side markers, door lock actuators and window motors. The Mirror actuators will start to stick or click, you can replace them or lube them up. The Mirror glass can develop "Rust" mark on the very bottom of the glass, if you have this, you can order new glass mirrors.
As with any used car it's super important to have a multi-point inspection done to let you know exactly whats wrong with the car. While it's up in the air they can check the rear structure for any sort of frame issues or damage. everything else would be inspected as well like any leaks, tire wear, brake wear, hoses, lines, exhaust, suspension ect. I tell people that want a used car to have a mechanic fully inspect it before buying. In short you know that you will do some basic maintenance like fluids and filters. After that it can be anything really. You may need tires and brakes, or suspension work, but it's part of the gamble to buying a used vehicle that wasn't inspected before purchase. Best of luck, let us know what happens.
02-10-2015, 06:57 AM
#43
Racer
Thread Starter
What you really need to do is have the vehicle inspected by a Mechanic.
1. At the mileage your TL has, a valve adjustment is needed IF it hasn't gotten done yet, this also includes spark plugs and as well as the most important the timing belt. Valve adjustment is only maintenance, this may not be your noise you could have something else going on, its been known for the belt tensioner to make noise and or knock a bit.
2. Regarding p/s, it's totally not uncommon for these vehicles to go through power steering racks and or power steering pumps. Stiff steering that gets better with higher rpms usually mean the p/s pump is on its way out. The 2nd gen MDX is very notorious for this as well.
3. I'm sure if you did some research you will see the TL typically suffers from a couple of things. 1. Dashboard cracks, 2. Leather seats ripping, 3. Bluetooth unit failures, 4. Engine mount failures, 5. Lower control arm bushings/ball joints and Misc items I will tell you next.
It's very important to get the suspension checked out, most important is the lower control arm bushings and upper/lower ball joints. CV-shafts have been known to cause noise when super cold and go away as you drive a bit, or the boots tear. Engine mounts usually the front and passenger side go together and more or less now the transmission mount is starting to become a "new" issue. Interior illumination lights are known to go out over time and you will need to replace the bulbs. Everything with a button or switch will light up at night except the Mirrior L/R doesn't light up. Other not as common but still fails are the LED boards in the tail lights and or side markers, door lock actuators and window motors. The Mirror actuators will start to stick or click, you can replace them or lube them up. The Mirror glass can develop "Rust" mark on the very bottom of the glass, if you have this, you can order new glass mirrors.
As with any used car it's super important to have a multi-point inspection done to let you know exactly whats wrong with the car. While it's up in the air they can check the rear structure for any sort of frame issues or damage. everything else would be inspected as well like any leaks, tire wear, brake wear, hoses, lines, exhaust, suspension ect. I tell people that want a used car to have a mechanic fully inspect it before buying. In short you know that you will do some basic maintenance like fluids and filters. After that it can be anything really. You may need tires and brakes, or suspension work, but it's part of the gamble to buying a used vehicle that wasn't inspected before purchase. Best of luck, let us know what happens.
1. At the mileage your TL has, a valve adjustment is needed IF it hasn't gotten done yet, this also includes spark plugs and as well as the most important the timing belt. Valve adjustment is only maintenance, this may not be your noise you could have something else going on, its been known for the belt tensioner to make noise and or knock a bit.
2. Regarding p/s, it's totally not uncommon for these vehicles to go through power steering racks and or power steering pumps. Stiff steering that gets better with higher rpms usually mean the p/s pump is on its way out. The 2nd gen MDX is very notorious for this as well.
3. I'm sure if you did some research you will see the TL typically suffers from a couple of things. 1. Dashboard cracks, 2. Leather seats ripping, 3. Bluetooth unit failures, 4. Engine mount failures, 5. Lower control arm bushings/ball joints and Misc items I will tell you next.
It's very important to get the suspension checked out, most important is the lower control arm bushings and upper/lower ball joints. CV-shafts have been known to cause noise when super cold and go away as you drive a bit, or the boots tear. Engine mounts usually the front and passenger side go together and more or less now the transmission mount is starting to become a "new" issue. Interior illumination lights are known to go out over time and you will need to replace the bulbs. Everything with a button or switch will light up at night except the Mirrior L/R doesn't light up. Other not as common but still fails are the LED boards in the tail lights and or side markers, door lock actuators and window motors. The Mirror actuators will start to stick or click, you can replace them or lube them up. The Mirror glass can develop "Rust" mark on the very bottom of the glass, if you have this, you can order new glass mirrors.
As with any used car it's super important to have a multi-point inspection done to let you know exactly whats wrong with the car. While it's up in the air they can check the rear structure for any sort of frame issues or damage. everything else would be inspected as well like any leaks, tire wear, brake wear, hoses, lines, exhaust, suspension ect. I tell people that want a used car to have a mechanic fully inspect it before buying. In short you know that you will do some basic maintenance like fluids and filters. After that it can be anything really. You may need tires and brakes, or suspension work, but it's part of the gamble to buying a used vehicle that wasn't inspected before purchase. Best of luck, let us know what happens.
02-10-2015, 10:20 AM
#45
Team Owner
It had a clean interior. Good to go.
And the 26 accidents it's been in aren't that noticeable.
And the 26 accidents it's been in aren't that noticeable.
02-10-2015, 10:25 AM
#47
Team Owner
If I had a dollar for every time I heard a car was "dealer maintained" and had nothing to worry about, but really was still a POS, I'd be $34.50 richer right now.
Some people consider "dealer maintained" as taking it in for a regular oil change and nothing more. If fluids are dirty, as OP mentioned, it wasn't maintained by the dealer very well. Same if it needs a valve adjustment. Dealerships stay on top of stuff like that because they make good money off of servicing. Hell, last time I was at the dealership, they were trying to convince me to get my fluids changed... Even though I did them a week prior myself.
Some people consider "dealer maintained" as taking it in for a regular oil change and nothing more. If fluids are dirty, as OP mentioned, it wasn't maintained by the dealer very well. Same if it needs a valve adjustment. Dealerships stay on top of stuff like that because they make good money off of servicing. Hell, last time I was at the dealership, they were trying to convince me to get my fluids changed... Even though I did them a week prior myself.
02-10-2015, 10:53 AM
#49
Race Director
Ok guys I am keeping the TL but just two things concerns me.
So after having the car started for more than 5 minutes and idling I could hear like a slight very low engine rocking noise. I had it looked at and the person said it's just my valves tapping and I should just add some additive next oil change. He said it's normal for a Honda at this mileage but it's nothing bad.
The noise is very faint...
Second concern (or stupidness)
Ok so the steering on this car is kind of stiff not sure if it's supposed to be like that I mean I can definitely steer with 1 hand but it's stiffer than the CL. I searched and people say it's normal. I checked the reservoir to make sure fluid is good, and it was just dirty so I took it out with baster and replaced with new fluid.
Not sure if I should be concerned about that?
So after having the car started for more than 5 minutes and idling I could hear like a slight very low engine rocking noise. I had it looked at and the person said it's just my valves tapping and I should just add some additive next oil change. He said it's normal for a Honda at this mileage but it's nothing bad.
The noise is very faint...
Second concern (or stupidness)
Ok so the steering on this car is kind of stiff not sure if it's supposed to be like that I mean I can definitely steer with 1 hand but it's stiffer than the CL. I searched and people say it's normal. I checked the reservoir to make sure fluid is good, and it was just dirty so I took it out with baster and replaced with new fluid.
Not sure if I should be concerned about that?
If not, then the sound you are hearing is likely just the injectors and nothing to worry about.
If a valve job was never done with either of the 2 timing belt services, I would put that next on my list. However, if you only plan to keep the car for another 30K miles, I probably wouldn't go to the expense (~$300).
Pretty sure the steering feel is just a matter of getting used to a different car. Sounds pretty normal to me.
It's a great looking car! Hope it serves you well. Good luck
02-10-2015, 11:33 AM
#50
Team Owner
Although Honda only recommends the valve job when the TB is replaced, for optimum fuel economy, it's worth doing it once every year. That's assuming you can do it yourself or you know someone who'll do it for dirt cheap.
To me it sounds like this car is likely no different than many of the others out for sale. Had some work done with paper work to prove it, but not all work was done as required.
02-10-2015, 11:56 AM
#51
Right, but then why are the fluids dirty and why does it sound like the valves are off?
Although Honda only recommends the valve job when the TB is replaced, for optimum fuel economy, it's worth doing it once every year. That's assuming you can do it yourself or you know someone who'll do it for dirt cheap.
To me it sounds like this car is likely no different than many of the others out for sale. Had some work done with paper work to prove it, but not all work was done as required.
Although Honda only recommends the valve job when the TB is replaced, for optimum fuel economy, it's worth doing it once every year. That's assuming you can do it yourself or you know someone who'll do it for dirt cheap.
To me it sounds like this car is likely no different than many of the others out for sale. Had some work done with paper work to prove it, but not all work was done as required.
Typical dealership business for you.
02-10-2015, 12:17 PM
#52
Team Owner
I'd say typical owner neglect.
02-10-2015, 12:37 PM
#53
Registered Bunny
I think that's exactly his point. Dealerships will try to sell you a windshield washer flush and a window track greasing.
The fact the PS might be going out (steering hard? dirty PS fluid?), the TB job being done twice (once at 100K other at 150??), the trunk slightly misaligned, the engine rocking sound (mounts? valves??) it makes it look like only absolutely necessary maintenance was done.
Bringing it to the dealership and refusing anything but the bare minimum maintenace doesn't put this car at a higher value than any other TL. I'm also calling typical owner neglect.
The fact the PS might be going out (steering hard? dirty PS fluid?), the TB job being done twice (once at 100K other at 150??), the trunk slightly misaligned, the engine rocking sound (mounts? valves??) it makes it look like only absolutely necessary maintenance was done.
Bringing it to the dealership and refusing anything but the bare minimum maintenace doesn't put this car at a higher value than any other TL. I'm also calling typical owner neglect.
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TacoBello (02-10-2015)
02-10-2015, 12:43 PM
#54
Team Owner
The previous owner likely ran regular gasoline in the car also 
02-10-2015, 12:47 PM
#55
Race Director
Right, but then why are the fluids dirty and why does it sound like the valves are off?
Although Honda only recommends the valve job when the TB is replaced, for optimum fuel economy, it's worth doing it once every year. That's assuming you can do it yourself or you know someone who'll do it for dirt cheap.
To me it sounds like this car is likely no different than many of the others out for sale. Had some work done with paper work to prove it, but not all work was done as required.
Although Honda only recommends the valve job when the TB is replaced, for optimum fuel economy, it's worth doing it once every year. That's assuming you can do it yourself or you know someone who'll do it for dirt cheap.
To me it sounds like this car is likely no different than many of the others out for sale. Had some work done with paper work to prove it, but not all work was done as required.
Also, since there is no service interval for PS fluid, it's likely that the dealer did not replace it unless the owner requested them to do so.
02-10-2015, 12:55 PM
#56
Senior Moderator
Those might be superfluous but never skip the often-forgotten blinker fluid flush. The blinkers are used all the time and the fluid needs to be flushed at least one a year.
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polobunny (02-10-2015)
02-10-2015, 01:21 PM
#57
Team Owner
as a side note, in the owners manual, it says "Adjust the valves during services A, B, 1, 2, or 3 if they are noisy."
Under maintenance symbol #4 it says "INSPECT VALVE CLEARANCE" right under the "REPLACE TIMING BELT". Or are you saying I'm full of shit?
And under maintenance symbol B it says "inspect all fluid levels and conditions of fluids." Why in the fuck are they telling you to look at them? To see how pretty they are? If they're dirty, you replace them. For fuck sakes!!! The service interval is under symbol B. or are you saying I'm full of shit again?
For a guy who claims to know the owners manual so well, you should refer to the page where it says not to be a cheap ass and use 91 octane for your car. Now please, crawl back under the rock you came from and STOP spreading misinformation!
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02-10-2015, 01:29 PM
#58
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
When I worked for Acura at 105K they recommended spark plugs, timing belt and a valve adjustment check which ended up being a valve adjustment. I'm waiting to be told that it's not needed because at over 100K the valves never go out of adjustment..
What's even better is that NFN isn't a stranger to this topic.
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-price-840213/ Post #5
"OP, with only 110K on the car, it's highly unlikely that you need your valves adjusted. "
And I quote, it's highly unlikely <---
Then this
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...t-pics-854094/ post #7 in which he claimed his were slightly off
Then he did his at 106K
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem.../#post12624318
At the end of the story, NFN way is Do as I say, not as I do..
K thank bruh.
What's even better is that NFN isn't a stranger to this topic.
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...-price-840213/ Post #5
"OP, with only 110K on the car, it's highly unlikely that you need your valves adjusted. "
And I quote, it's highly unlikely <---
Then this
https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...t-pics-854094/ post #7 in which he claimed his were slightly off
Then he did his at 106K
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem.../#post12624318
At the end of the story, NFN way is Do as I say, not as I do..
K thank bruh.
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TacoBello (02-10-2015)
02-10-2015, 01:35 PM
#59
Team Owner
I do my valves once a year. I've done so on ALL of my Hondas. And they are always out just a bit. After doing them, my fuel economy improves a little. Having valves out isn't going to cause big problems (unless they are waaaay out). But having them to spec can help. I started doing it yearly after a friend of mine who does LOTS of driving for his job, using his own car, told me he saves a couple hundred bucks a year in fuel by doing so.
02-10-2015, 01:44 PM
#60
Race Director
Again, Acura does not recommend a valve job when you do the TB service. So when you said that it was recommended, you were wrong. Sorry that you are upset that I corrected you.
And again, there is no service interval for PS fluid.
OP, enjoy your new ride. I wouldn't get too worked up over dirty PS fluid. You've replaced it and it'll be dirty again in a year, probably less. Does that mean you need to replace it then? No, but you can if it makes you feel better.
I've already told the OP that he should put a valve job at the top of his list, so I'm not "saying one thing and doing another":
One other thing I'd check is the date of the last brake fluid flush. Interval is 36 months per Acura.
And again, there is no service interval for PS fluid.
OP, enjoy your new ride. I wouldn't get too worked up over dirty PS fluid. You've replaced it and it'll be dirty again in a year, probably less. Does that mean you need to replace it then? No, but you can if it makes you feel better.
I've already told the OP that he should put a valve job at the top of his list, so I'm not "saying one thing and doing another":
One other thing I'd check is the date of the last brake fluid flush. Interval is 36 months per Acura.
Last edited by nfnsquared; 02-10-2015 at 01:49 PM.
02-10-2015, 01:48 PM
#61
Team Owner
FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!!!!!
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02-10-2015, 01:55 PM
#62
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
02-10-2015, 02:32 PM
#63
Racer
Thread Starter
Huge update!
Ok so hey guys big update:
So I took the advice of one of the guy here and took it in for an inspection in the morning at 9AM.
The guy said since the inspection sticker is good till September that he will just look but won't charge for the inspection. So I just told him to do the emission inspection (which was required because I wanted to register the car for 2 years and it was going to expire in September of 2015 just like the inspection sticker). So all went well and after 20 minutes he was done with emission which passed and told me only thing I need to worry about is the rear brake pads and even then he said he wouldn't worry too much.
So I go home and take everything to go to DMV and BAM half way there the check engine light came on and I turned around went home.
Came home checked the code and it's P0420 (Catalyst System Below Threshold Bank 1).
At this point I don't know what to do because how the heck did the emission pass if the Catalytic converter is bad? I just don't understand.
So my question and maybe someone can help me is could it be an O2 sensor or is the computer just glitching?
The car drives like a freaking beast it's amazing but now I do not know how to proceed. Regardless I will have to register it since I signed the title right before heading to DMV. My brother is advising I just drive the car AS-IS since emission just passed and the CAT is needed for that purpose anyway. I am thinking about selling the car in the summer?
Just give me some advice guys I am already feeling really down because honestly I am not a rich guy I am a sophomore in college so don't have too much play money.
Also here's the link to the pictures I promised.
Picture #4 with the trunk from side view is the misalignment I was talking about. Oh, and in case you guys were wondering the door caps missing were given to me so I just have to install them. Also I have 2 sets of keys and 1 valet.
http://imgur.com/ybvPaxj,forbmxy,TGh...Ygka,eFlnOQO#1
So I took the advice of one of the guy here and took it in for an inspection in the morning at 9AM.
The guy said since the inspection sticker is good till September that he will just look but won't charge for the inspection. So I just told him to do the emission inspection (which was required because I wanted to register the car for 2 years and it was going to expire in September of 2015 just like the inspection sticker). So all went well and after 20 minutes he was done with emission which passed and told me only thing I need to worry about is the rear brake pads and even then he said he wouldn't worry too much.
So I go home and take everything to go to DMV and BAM half way there the check engine light came on and I turned around went home.
Came home checked the code and it's P0420 (Catalyst System Below Threshold Bank 1).
At this point I don't know what to do because how the heck did the emission pass if the Catalytic converter is bad? I just don't understand.
So my question and maybe someone can help me is could it be an O2 sensor or is the computer just glitching?
The car drives like a freaking beast it's amazing but now I do not know how to proceed. Regardless I will have to register it since I signed the title right before heading to DMV. My brother is advising I just drive the car AS-IS since emission just passed and the CAT is needed for that purpose anyway. I am thinking about selling the car in the summer?
Just give me some advice guys I am already feeling really down because honestly I am not a rich guy I am a sophomore in college so don't have too much play money.
Also here's the link to the pictures I promised.
Picture #4 with the trunk from side view is the misalignment I was talking about. Oh, and in case you guys were wondering the door caps missing were given to me so I just have to install them. Also I have 2 sets of keys and 1 valet.
http://imgur.com/ybvPaxj,forbmxy,TGh...Ygka,eFlnOQO#1
Last edited by YungMoola15; 02-10-2015 at 02:38 PM.
02-10-2015, 02:39 PM
#64
Racer
Thread Starter
02-10-2015, 02:42 PM
#65
Racer
Thread Starter
Can you hear the sound from inside the car with the doors/windows closed?
If not, then the sound you are hearing is likely just the injectors and nothing to worry about.
If a valve job was never done with either of the 2 timing belt services, I would put that next on my list. However, if you only plan to keep the car for another 30K miles, I probably wouldn't go to the expense (~$300).
Pretty sure the steering feel is just a matter of getting used to a different car. Sounds pretty normal to me.
It's a great looking car! Hope it serves you well. Good luck
If not, then the sound you are hearing is likely just the injectors and nothing to worry about.
If a valve job was never done with either of the 2 timing belt services, I would put that next on my list. However, if you only plan to keep the car for another 30K miles, I probably wouldn't go to the expense (~$300).
Pretty sure the steering feel is just a matter of getting used to a different car. Sounds pretty normal to me.
It's a great looking car! Hope it serves you well. Good luck
02-10-2015, 02:42 PM
#66
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
02-10-2015, 02:45 PM
#67
Racer
Thread Starter
Right, but then why are the fluids dirty and why does it sound like the valves are off?
Although Honda only recommends the valve job when the TB is replaced, for optimum fuel economy, it's worth doing it once every year. That's assuming you can do it yourself or you know someone who'll do it for dirt cheap.
To me it sounds like this car is likely no different than many of the others out for sale. Had some work done with paper work to prove it, but not all work was done as required.
Although Honda only recommends the valve job when the TB is replaced, for optimum fuel economy, it's worth doing it once every year. That's assuming you can do it yourself or you know someone who'll do it for dirt cheap.
To me it sounds like this car is likely no different than many of the others out for sale. Had some work done with paper work to prove it, but not all work was done as required.
02-10-2015, 02:46 PM
#68
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
As for the CEL, have a technician read what the heated 02 sensors are reading before telling you it may need a catalytic converter. A lot of misdiagnosis in the past with technicians running to replace the catalytic converter without properly checking the reading of the oxygen sensors.
02-10-2015, 02:47 PM
#69
Racer
Thread Starter
I think that's exactly his point. Dealerships will try to sell you a windshield washer flush and a window track greasing.
The fact the PS might be going out (steering hard? dirty PS fluid?), the TB job being done twice (once at 100K other at 150??), the trunk slightly misaligned, the engine rocking sound (mounts? valves??) it makes it look like only absolutely necessary maintenance was done.
Bringing it to the dealership and refusing anything but the bare minimum maintenace doesn't put this car at a higher value than any other TL. I'm also calling typical owner neglect.
The fact the PS might be going out (steering hard? dirty PS fluid?), the TB job being done twice (once at 100K other at 150??), the trunk slightly misaligned, the engine rocking sound (mounts? valves??) it makes it look like only absolutely necessary maintenance was done.
Bringing it to the dealership and refusing anything but the bare minimum maintenace doesn't put this car at a higher value than any other TL. I'm also calling typical owner neglect.
02-10-2015, 02:49 PM
#70
Racer
Thread Starter
ULEV system, normal.
As for the CEL, have a technician read what the heated 02 sensors are reading before telling you it may need a catalytic converter. A lot of misdiagnosis in the past with technicians running to replace the catalytic converter without properly checking the reading of the oxygen sensors.
As for the CEL, have a technician read what the heated 02 sensors are reading before telling you it may need a catalytic converter. A lot of misdiagnosis in the past with technicians running to replace the catalytic converter without properly checking the reading of the oxygen sensors.
Would you recommend I go to an exhaust shop or a normal mechanic shop?
02-10-2015, 02:50 PM
#71
Registered Bunny
Acura technician Bob: Yup, valve clearance isn't good anymore. Let the valves clap, our job is only to inspect the clearance, not correct it Jim.
Acura technician Jim: Fer sure Bob!
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04WDPSeDaN (02-10-2015)
02-10-2015, 02:50 PM
#72
Racer
Thread Starter
Oh and the steering issue was just tire pressure being low (12 PSI when it should have been 32). Yes I know that was a bit idiotic not checking the pressure prior to asking here but steering is all good now. But still a bit stiffer than the CL.
02-10-2015, 02:53 PM
#73
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
No worries , here to help you out.
As far as your tire pressure is concern have it checked out for why it lost that much air. Cold weather will drop the PSI inside tires. As you drive and they get warmer the PSI rises in the tires. there should be about the same difference across the board is all tires are set to 32 PSI. In the morning they may get down to 28 but as you drive they will rise past 32.
Last edited by 04WDPSeDaN; 02-10-2015 at 02:56 PM.
02-10-2015, 03:01 PM
#75
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
02-10-2015, 03:08 PM
#77
Racer
Thread Starter
Reputable independent shop that has good google or yelp reviews.
No worries , here to help you out.
As far as your tire pressure is concern have it checked out for why it lost that much air. Cold weather will drop the PSI inside tires. As you drive and they get warmer the PSI rises in the tires. there should be about the same difference across the board is all tires are set to 32 PSI. In the morning they may get down to 28 but as you drive they will rise past 32.
No worries , here to help you out.
As far as your tire pressure is concern have it checked out for why it lost that much air. Cold weather will drop the PSI inside tires. As you drive and they get warmer the PSI rises in the tires. there should be about the same difference across the board is all tires are set to 32 PSI. In the morning they may get down to 28 but as you drive they will rise past 32.
Would you recommend I do the "Defouler" trick to get the CEL off? I mean I don't really care taking it to the shop but they'll probably charge me a diagnostic fee. In case you don't know what I am talking about, here is the link to a video that explains the trick.
Pressure was actually set at 14-15 in all the tires not sure why so low but they're all good now.
02-10-2015, 04:28 PM
#78
Team Owner
YungMoola, we're giving you a bit of a hard time here, but it's because you're all over the map. Hopefully you get you car issues sorted out and can enjoy the car for as long as you own it.
One thing, and I say this in complete seriousness, do NOT listen to nfnsquared in regards to anything you do to your car. There are plenty of helpful people on AZ, but be weary.
Oh, and nfn, if you say there Is no service interval for power steering, then maybe you're right, there in fact is no service interval for anything on the car unless it shows up in the maintenance minder. Therefore, sure, there's no interval. However, the owners manual clearly spells out at which interval to check fluids. If CHECKED and DIRTY, proceed to the next step, which is REPLACE. Same goes for valves.
But of course, the manual doesn't clearly say "replace", so you won't listen. That's akin to the guy complaining that the owners manual never said he had to condition his leather and now it's all trashed
Give your head a serious shake. Stop spreading misinformation.
One thing, and I say this in complete seriousness, do NOT listen to nfnsquared in regards to anything you do to your car. There are plenty of helpful people on AZ, but be weary.
Oh, and nfn, if you say there Is no service interval for power steering, then maybe you're right, there in fact is no service interval for anything on the car unless it shows up in the maintenance minder. Therefore, sure, there's no interval. However, the owners manual clearly spells out at which interval to check fluids. If CHECKED and DIRTY, proceed to the next step, which is REPLACE. Same goes for valves.
But of course, the manual doesn't clearly say "replace", so you won't listen. That's akin to the guy complaining that the owners manual never said he had to condition his leather and now it's all trashed
Give your head a serious shake. Stop spreading misinformation.
02-10-2015, 04:34 PM
#79
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
We should start a 12 psi vs 32 psi thread.. 
The following 2 users liked this post by Majofo:
GKinColo08TL (02-10-2015),
polobunny (02-10-2015)
02-10-2015, 04:39 PM
#80
Senior Moderator
If you're going to do it, do it right.. you just got the car and you're starting off on the wrong foot by bandaging a problem
.. That's not a good sign at all.. WTF?! You said you took the car to get inspected. How in the hell were all the tires at 14-15 PSI (LESS THAN HALF?) the recommended pressure and the mechanic didn't notice?
Good luck with your car OP, one of the best parts of buying a used car (for me anyway) is that you'll run into issues and you learn LOADS from fixing those issues.
I use premium air in my tires..
(half joking, but Costco here pumps our tires with Nitrogen!!)
Last edited by thoiboi; 02-10-2015 at 04:45 PM.