I was Thinkin of doin my brake job done this weekend is any1 there who has a guide of how to take out the brake pads nd the rotors.. Plz send me the link thanks ..

 

what year and model is the car and where r u located?

 

Do search, and you'll find the DIY

 

I'd also suggest a search on "01tl4tl". He's got great tips on brake repair.

 

yea i only ask where ur at cuz if u need help theres always someone willing to help n show u whats up

 

its a 04 tl nd im located in ny queens

 

lol there u go if u need help im in queens as well. PM me for more info or if anyone else chimes in here hit them up.... im free all weekend

 

how in the world im do that =/ i gotta buy the tool ...

 

wher in queens r u located ??

 

nd with spray paint should i get i wanna paint my caliper black..

 

you dont want to, or need to compress the caliper piston back in that far-
it pushes the inner oring into unused parts of its travel
Also open the bleeder nipple to allow old crud that will be in there- to get out
instead of causing a seal tear and caliper overhaul
IMO-
Flush the brake fluid before doing anything else and you wont have to worry about it

If painting- you can spray some paint into a throw away cup, or the cap of the spray paint, and use a flux brush to apply. That stuff dries fast- a few minutes left sitting and the brush is history- takes 3-4 do give do all the calipers with 2-3 coats

Thanks for the kudos Jeffa1

 

I just changed my stock rotors and pads today, replaced with Rotora rotors and Rotora ceramic H2 pads (07 TL-S). Here's some tips:

As per the post above, you don't need to push the pistons all the way back. Just a standard set of pipe pliers will do the trick. In my case, I wrapped them in electrical tape so it wouldn't scratch the finish on my Brembo calipers.

There are 2 aluminum screws that hold the rotors in place. Be carefull with these as they can sieze. Take a large bit, put it into the screws, and hit the end with a hammer a few times. I mention this because my first screw did not break loose, and I stripped it, and spent the next hour extracting it with several bits. So, go buy some large phillips bits, and tap those screws a few times before getting them out.

The service manual lists Molykote to put in between the shims and pads. You can reuse the shims, and my Acura dealer gave me a few packets of the stuff the techs use when they change the pads. I suggest you visit the parts dept. and give the guy a few bucks. Not totally necessary, but I wanted my brakes perfect.

Torque the caliper screws down (125 lb/ft) and you're all set. It's easy, and you'll realize that after you spent 2 hours on one side, and 30 minutes on the other.

 

125 ft pounds- on what bolts??

CRC synthetic caliper grease is a good product for use on all the moving or contact points in the caliper/rotor/pad area

An IMPACT Screwdriver- a special `force twisting and magnifying` screwdriver, $5-25 at parts or tool store is invaluable in removing the rotor screws.
Try tighten a few whacks then loosen,, even with regular screwdriver
Use wd type stuff as a rust buster on the center hub connection to rotor

Brembo calipers are a bit different than regular TL calipers- see their DIY so you dont damage a caliper piston- very easy to do!

Remember- you need to flush the brake fluid completely!! every year
So opening the bleeder nipple when you compress the piston not only makes it finger pressure job it removes the crud in the caliper- wiki hygroscopic for info

Make sure you have added clean fluid to the Master and pump the pedal till pressure is back, the piston has now re-extended to its operating length-
continue to flush out fluid till all clear and no bubbles using normal methods

 

Always check the Garage:

Service manual scans:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/brakes-caliper-o-h-pad-repl-hoses-bleed-disc-specs-park-brake-adj-3g-garage-d-041-a-578017/

DIY with pictures:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/3g-garage-d-094-brembo-hawk-pad-replacement-w-pics-579140/

Another DIY:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/diy-2007-tl-s-brake-pad-replacement-629428/

Again, all of these links are in the Garage.

 

OK so I have read all DIY's, Im just trying to be extremly clear when I do my brake job this weekend
I bought rotora rotors and pads.
Is there a specific bed in procedure for these seems like every ones is different, and the paper work I recieved with the rotors is really vague?
Do I use the shims that came on the new pads or the ones off the brembo's?
To lessen the chance of messing the caliper up I should give it a couple whacks with the impact screwdriver and try to tighten then loosen?
Would pb blaster help or not if it were applied.
Thanks
My first brake job ever.

 

Don't worry, you'll be amazed at how easy of a job it is. I would definitely use the shims that came with the new pads. Not sure what you mean about "messing up the caliper" and whacking it. The bolts that hold the caliper on are a bit tough to break loose and I had to turn the steering wheel to get a good angle with my large torque wrench to both break them loose and to tighten them. Be sure to grease the back of the shims, the pad retaining pins, and the spring clips wherever they come in contact with the pads or the caliper.

As far as bed-in procedures, they're all a bit different but seem to work. I used the bed-in procedure on mrtheeltoe.com because that's where I bought my RB300ET pads from. I'd check with your vendor or the rotora web site for any bed-in procedures specific to the pads you bought. There are several folks on this board who have installed rotora pads and rotors. Hopefully some of them will chime in.

 

Thanks what I meant by messing up the caliper was the bolts, Some guys have said they messed the threads up

 

^^^Yes, I've seen a couple of posts where guys fubar'd the bolts when rethreading. Just be sure you have the bolts properly threaded before you start to tighten. It takes a bit of finessing to get the caliper bolt holes to line up and get the bolt threads started. Just take your time and make sure everything is lined up before you start to crank down on the bolts and you'll be fine.